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750y wont charge

5K views 49 replies 10 participants last post by  eampangeral 
#1 ·
I'm about to burn this bike, literally and call it a day. so the problems go like this, the bike hasn't been charging since i too delivery a few weeks ago, after like 3 years of me procrastinating on shipping it. i purchased it from a friend who never rode it like never. i was aware of the charging problem when i agreed to buy it from him.

Today i got off work early and went straight to the Stator cover. and the stator is in perfect shape and color, no burned windings, so i figured it was still bad. and continued to replace it as i was originally going to. the stator is not producing any voltage with the old or new windings.even went back in and swapped it around again still no voltage.

so that's where I'm at now, 2 perfect condition stators( 1 brand new). 2 regulator rectifiers both bench tested and numbers are close and within range. i tested the stator at the plug and I'm getting zero across all three wires. any ideas since there's no fuses between the stator and rectifier !?
 
#2 ·
Did you check the ground side? Corrosion under the fuse block? Just guessing until a real tech guy gets here.
 
#3 ·
Did the stator cover offer any resistance when you pulled it off? I am wondering if the flywheel magnets are intact.

With the stator installed did you check resistance between each winding and also to ground?

As for voltage, did you put your meter on AC voltage for the test? You didn't say in your post so just wanted to check. AC voltage should be at least 65V across each pair of wires at 5000rpm and within 5% of each other.

If you don't have a service manual, check out this link:

http://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/tips/2006-2009-gsxr-600-750-stator-test-procedure/



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#4 ·
no corrosion any where, the magnet bond was strong, Hmmm flywheel magnets? i checked this thing up and down no resistance being measured anywhere, since this is my first time in that compartment i cant tell if anything is missing.
 
#6 ·
Your posts are a bit scattered. The other people are being specific with their questions and you need to answer them specifically to be of any help.

Just to review. You put a good, digital voltmeter on the AC scale, revved the bike to 5k and probed between each pair of yellow wires from the stator and you got no voltage reading?

To answer your question. The magnets do not go bad or wear out. I know the magnets on some of the early SVs would come loose but you would see that right away. It really makes a mess. (happened to a friend's bike)
 
#8 ·
I had some problems with my charging system... if stator is ok, R/R is OK... assuming all wiring is OK... there is a very uncommon item mostly left behind... the stator cover might need to get replaced. If you can swap the stator cover with a friend just to make sure it is not the problem.
Gsxr charging system is pretty simple so sure it can be a pain the @ss but you will get to fix it.

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#11 ·
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#12 · (Edited)
didn't do anything new since yesterday, charged my battery over night and went at it again. well i have a little progress, while keeping a multi-meter on the battery leads, i noticed a difference, the bike is charging but at a low rate, i let it run for some time. at times while at idle the charge was about 13.5V average but then it would fluctuate downward to 12.4V give or take. i disconnected the R/R and the charge was back to falling voltage. both R/R new and old gave me the same reading range. i dont know where to go from here.

My original stator is alot beefier than this replacement, but it was hard wired without a harness plug. so I'm not sure if to swap it back in since i tested it and it appears solid. its only time, where should i go from here.
 
#14 · (Edited)
put the leads on the battery and rev it to ~5k and hold it and let us know the reading. 14-15.5 volts and you are good. Anything else signals a r/r or stator problem.
which will require additional testing. What year is your bike?

If we say it enough times he will try it :D

$6.00
 
#15 ·
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#30 ·
I'll up myself. $6.50

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Bump for the Atlanta guy. Here are the tests
 
#18 · (Edited)
i damn near had a electrical fire, the ground wire(black/white stripe) to the R/R plug gets real hot whenever a load is put on the system ex. raising the rpm's, putting on the high beams, when the fan motor comes on. i kept an hand on it because i had to replace a burned melted plug already, the ground wire get hot to the point of melting the R/R plug while transferring the heat into the R/R. can the ground wire be compromised somewhere? causing it to heat up so much! should i run another ground from the plug to the battery, bypassing the black/white ground to plug? i hope this grounding problem leads me to whats wrong with this charging system. my original stator is back on the bike since its not damaged ( i ran test on it with an auto ranging multimeter). and both R/R old and new are attempting to charge the battery.
 
#19 · (Edited)
the ground wire(black/white stripe) to the R/R plug gets real hot whenever a load is put on the system
Obviously, the you have a poor, high resistance connector at the plug.
Don't forget the connection crimp between the connector and the wire itself.

This is why a lot of people just solder the wires together.
 
#20 · (Edited)
Well I spliced the ground wire and added a bigger gauge wire leading to the negative cable. And for the hell of it added a ground to the R/R too. This is the best I've seen all day, the plug isn't hot anymore and the battery is being charged at a constant 14+ volts.
 
#22 ·
It's charging now but I'm still cautious, I'll go to Walmart and exchange my 5 month old battery for a new one, since I still have the receipt. This issue took me around the world and back.

I found corrosion dust under the ground cable in the R/R plug and it seems that it's running through the entire wire to where its grounded. The RR plug is not getting burning hot anymore since I spliced in a ground to battery at the plug, but its rather warm now.

But here is something maybe one of you guys can explain to me. When the bike is idling its charging around 14.5v but when I apply throttle, or load is applied the voltage rather drops instead of increasing?
 
#24 ·
My GSXRs charging voltage also goes down a couple of tenths as I increase the throttle off idle.

I recently tested my KTM, which just uses the stator for lights and starting and it does the same thing.

Electrically, I don't know why it does this. Maybe the magnetic fields in the stator just don't have the time to reverse fully at higher rpm.:0001136745-huh:

I'm pretty sure this is why Suzuki specifies a certain rpm to check the charging voltage (5k)
 
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#26 ·
Well if we have the same year bike and yours is fine at those parameters I guess mine should be fine also. But I'll go purchase a thicker ground wire and macgiver it for a better ground from that plug. That explains why the charging system was not working any way. Still on my original stator and rectifier that I had on the bike originally. Go figure
 
#32 ·
Still working on this, charging system still acting up. Hard to restart after shut off. Starter struggles to crank then power gradually leaves bike unable to start. Left it over night it started right up this morning.
 
#34 ·
So are you saying that if you leave it overnight without charging the battery then it starts fine?

If so it sounds like a bad connection. When bike is running the bad connection is getting hot increasing resistance. When it cools down, resistance drops so power flows better. Find it and fix it before you get a (possible) fire to deal with.




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#36 ·
The connector between the stator and the R/R should not be getting hot. The connector is corroded, lose or worn out.

I'm guessing your bike is not charging sufficiently due to this. Your comment about the fan drawing it down confirms this.

Your best option is to just cut off the connector and solder splice the wires together. (There is no polarity, so any wire order works)
 
#37 ·
Hey John are you saying I should splice the 5 wires between the R/R and the stator and do away with the plug. I already cut the corroded black/ white stripe ground wire, and relocated the ground to the frame. That's the wire that would get so hot that the plug would start to melt.

Let me know I already replaced this plug already a few weeks ago, but it still gets rather hot under load.
 
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