When taking measurements it's a "go/no go" principal. You just dont want to use so much force you actually start to open a valve.
Your valve adjustment has held its values pretty well for many miles in it. Your exhausts are the only ones that tightened up really. I'd probably put one size thinner on the .11's on the intake just because you're in there.
Get your shim sizes next. If you post them, Ill tell you what sizes you need.
Exhaust valves usually get tighter due to heat.
When a valve heats it expands(or stretches) when it cools it contracts, but it wont contract exactly to where it was, therefore staying a tiny bit longer. Over time the gap closes due to stretch and seat/valve face wear.
Lets say you have a 2.30 shim, a 2.35 will be a thicker shim, you would install the 2.35 to make your gap smaller. A 2.25 to make your measured gap larger.
Aftermarket shims purchased usually go in increments of .05.Example 2.20-2.25-2.30.
OEM shims are often seen in 1/2 size increments as well Example 2.25-2.27-2.30-2.32.
Generally 2.25 to a 2.30 is roughly .002 inch or two thousandths.
All the Japanese shims are measured in millimeters.
Of course here in the US our feeler gauges have both metric and standard on each blade.
I'd rather have my exhaust shim closer to the loose side of the spec if possible. But as long as they are within specs you're fine.
"Crazy people don't know they're crazy, but I know I am, so I must not be crazy"
Last edited by Racerxxxgsxr1000; 04-11-2017 at 10:48 AM.