Valve lash - GSXR.com
 16Likes
  • 1 Post By Racerxxxgsxr1000
  • 1 Post By jespenshade12
  • 2 Post By rv6john
  • 1 Post By jespenshade12
  • 1 Post By Racerxxxgsxr1000
  • 1 Post By Racerxxxgsxr1000
  • 1 Post By jespenshade12
  • 1 Post By Racerxxxgsxr1000
  • 2 Post By jespenshade12
  • 1 Post By Winchester Boy
  • 2 Post By jespenshade12
  • 1 Post By jespenshade12
  • 1 Post By jespenshade12
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
Rider
 
jespenshade12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Harrisburg, PA
Posts: 323
Garage
Valve lash

Hey guys, so i need help. I cant find a manual for my 91 gsxr 750. I have the motor exposed for valve lash check. Where do i rotate the motor my hand and do i remove all the bolts shown?

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
jespenshade12 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 03:14 PM
Racer
 
Racerxxxgsxr1000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Texas
Posts: 628
That's the correct bolts, and you'll need to remove the right hand crank cover in your second picture with Suzuki written on it.
And don't lose the orings on the oil lines on the back of the cover.
Do you have new gaskets for everything?
There are also individual gaskets under the valve cover to seal the spark plug holes.

.
.
.
.
.
.
"Crazy people don't know they're crazy, but I know I am, so I must not be crazy"
Racerxxxgsxr1000 is offline  
post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
Rider
 
jespenshade12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Harrisburg, PA
Posts: 323
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Racerxxxgsxr1000 View Post
That's the correct bolts, and you'll need to remove the right hand crank cover in your second picture with Suzuki written on it.
And don't lose the orings on the oil lines on the back of the cover.
Do you have new gaskets for everything?
There are also individual gaskets under the valve cover to seal the spark plug holes.
I did not buy the gaskets till I knew what all I needed would rather buy in bulk all at once. I thought that was the cover to remove. Noe do I need to drain the oil or is that a dry cover?

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
jespenshade12 is offline  
 
post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 05:27 PM
Racer
 
Racerxxxgsxr1000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Texas
Posts: 628
It's pretty much dry if I remember correctly. On sidestand, it shouldnt be a problem. Just slide a pan under when you pull it for any that might be in the cover itself.
Post up if you have any questions.
That motor is a valve shim motor, no threaded adjusters.
Take valve clearances when cam is directly away from the shim and record everything to check specs.
The shims had numbers on the bottom for sizes, but often those numbers will wear off.
You slide the arm over to remove shim. Make sure you use a strong little magnet so you dont drop your shims in the head, especially ones near the camchain galley area.

If you have a digital caliper it will help greatly measuring shims.
jespenshade12 likes this.

.
.
.
.
.
.
"Crazy people don't know they're crazy, but I know I am, so I must not be crazy"
Racerxxxgsxr1000 is offline  
post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
Rider
 
jespenshade12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Harrisburg, PA
Posts: 323
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Racerxxxgsxr1000 View Post
It's pretty much dry if I remember correctly. On sidestand, it shouldnt be a problem. Just slide a pan under when you pull it for any that might be in the cover itself.
Post up if you have any questions.
That motor is a valve shim motor, no threaded adjusters.
Take valve clearances when cam is directly away from the shim and record everything to check specs.
The shims had numbers on the bottom for sizes, but often those numbers will wear off.
You slide the arm over to remove shim. Make sure you use a strong little magnet so you dont drop your shims in the head, especially ones near the camchain galley area.

If you have a digital caliper it will help greatly measuring shims.
Awesome help man. Thank you. Ill post pictures and everything as I do the work. By any chance, know where I can download a service manual? Found clearance specs but only by other people posting and my trust with specific specs runs thin unless its from dealer or suzuki themselves.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
Racerxxxgsxr1000 likes this.
jespenshade12 is offline  
post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 06:26 PM
Lifetime Premium
 
rv6john's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: In the twisties around Hendersonville, NC
Posts: 5,571
It listed 91 750 micro fiches here. I did not download it to see what it was.

Suzuki workshop manuals for download, free!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckster View Post
If you think reading is tricky, how the hell are you going to follow troubleshooting directions?
"Riding well is difficult, riding poorly is easy and painful."
- Nick Ienatsch


"We're all here because we're not all there" - Guy Favron on Gold Rush

K6 750
rv6john is offline  
post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
Rider
 
jespenshade12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Harrisburg, PA
Posts: 323
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by rv6john View Post
It listed 91 750 micro fiches here. I did not download it to see what it was.

Suzuki workshop manuals for download, free!
I did see it and downloaded it after i posted the question. Looks great. Thanks again

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
rv6john likes this.
jespenshade12 is offline  
post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-10-2017, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
Rider
 
jespenshade12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Harrisburg, PA
Posts: 323
Garage
First time seeing her topless and it makes me feel great! Looks good so far. (No measurements taken yet but thats the easy part)

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
jespenshade12 is offline  
post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-10-2017, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
Rider
 
jespenshade12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Harrisburg, PA
Posts: 323
Garage
Do I measure the green line or blue? This is the first time ever seeing this type

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
jespenshade12 is offline  
post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-10-2017, 05:53 PM Thread Starter
Rider
 
jespenshade12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Harrisburg, PA
Posts: 323
Garage
Another pic

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
jespenshade12 is offline  
post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-10-2017, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
Rider
 
jespenshade12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Harrisburg, PA
Posts: 323
Garage
Found the measurements. Got all them. This is a 16 valve so it took some time. As long as i did the measurements correctly, i have 3 out of spec and 6 on the edge of being out of spec.

Would it be correct to say I would replace the ones circled?

Also, is it safe to say that this may have caused a big issue when riding? The ones out of spec would only get worse and the ones on the edge would fall out of spec. Or isnt there that great of a change?

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

Last edited by jespenshade12; 04-10-2017 at 08:01 PM.
jespenshade12 is offline  
post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-10-2017, 08:05 PM
Racer
 
Racerxxxgsxr1000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Texas
Posts: 628
When taking measurements it's a "go/no go" principal. You just dont want to use so much force you actually start to open a valve.

Your valve adjustment has held its values pretty well for many miles in it. Your exhausts are the only ones that tightened up really. I'd probably put one size thinner on the .11's on the intake just because you're in there.
Get your shim sizes next. If you post them, Ill tell you what sizes you need.

Exhaust valves usually get tighter due to heat.
When a valve heats it expands(or stretches) when it cools it contracts, but it wont contract exactly to where it was, therefore staying a tiny bit longer. Over time the gap closes due to stretch and seat/valve face wear.
Lets say you have a 2.30 shim, a 2.35 will be a thicker shim, you would install the 2.35 to make your gap smaller. A 2.25 to make your measured gap larger.
Aftermarket shims purchased usually go in increments of .05.Example 2.20-2.25-2.30.
OEM shims are often seen in 1/2 size increments as well Example 2.25-2.27-2.30-2.32.

Generally 2.25 to a 2.30 is roughly .002 inch or two thousandths.
All the Japanese shims are measured in millimeters.
Of course here in the US our feeler gauges have both metric and standard on each blade.

I'd rather have my exhaust shim closer to the loose side of the spec if possible. But as long as they are within specs you're fine.

.
.
.
.
.
.
"Crazy people don't know they're crazy, but I know I am, so I must not be crazy"

Last edited by Racerxxxgsxr1000; 04-11-2017 at 10:48 AM.
Racerxxxgsxr1000 is offline  
post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 02:30 AM Thread Starter
Rider
 
jespenshade12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Harrisburg, PA
Posts: 323
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Racerxxxgsxr1000 View Post
When taking measurements it's a "go/no go" principal. You just dont want to use so much force you actually start to open a valve.

Your valve adjustment has held its values pretty well for many miles in it. Your exhausts are the only ones that tightened up really. I'd probably put one size thicker on the .11's on the intake just because you're in there.
Get your shim sizes next. If you post them, Ill tell you what sizes you need.

Exhaust valves usually get tighter due to heat.
When a valve heats it expands(or stretches) when it cools it contracts, but it wont contract exactly to where it was, therefore staying a tiny bit longer. Over time the gap closes due to stretch and seat/valve face wear.
Lets say you have a 2.30 shim, a 2.35 will be a thicker shim, you would install the 2.35 to make your gap smaller. A 2.25 to make your measured gap larger.
Aftermarket shims purchased usually go in increments of .05.Example 2.20-2.25-2.30.
OEM shims are often seen in 1/2 size increments as well Example 2.25-2.27-2.30-2.32.

Generally 2.25 to a 2.30 is roughly .002 inch or two thousandths.
All the Japanese shims are measured in millimeters.
Of course here in the US our feeler gauges have both metric and standard on each blade.

I'd rather have my exhaust shim closer to the loose side of the spec if possible. But as long as they are within specs you're fine.
Based on your comment.. wouldnt i go thinner shims on the .11 to open the gap up? Tolerance is .10 to .20... i would want to run closer to the .20 from what i keep reading.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
jespenshade12 is offline  
post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-11-2017, 10:47 AM
Racer
 
Racerxxxgsxr1000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Texas
Posts: 628
Quote:
Originally Posted by jespenshade12 View Post
Based on your comment.. wouldnt i go thinner shims on the .11 to open the gap up? Tolerance is .10 to .20... i would want to run closer to the .20 from what i keep reading.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
You are correct....my thinner was thickening. I will correct post so I dont confuse anyone else.
jespenshade12 likes this.

.
.
.
.
.
.
"Crazy people don't know they're crazy, but I know I am, so I must not be crazy"
Racerxxxgsxr1000 is offline  
post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-13-2017, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
Rider
 
jespenshade12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Harrisburg, PA
Posts: 323
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Racerxxxgsxr1000 View Post
When taking measurements it's a "go/no go" principal. You just dont want to use so much force you actually start to open a valve.

Your valve adjustment has held its values pretty well for many miles in it. Your exhausts are the only ones that tightened up really. I'd probably put one size thinner on the .11's on the intake just because you're in there.
Get your shim sizes next. If you post them, Ill tell you what sizes you need.

Exhaust valves usually get tighter due to heat.
When a valve heats it expands(or stretches) when it cools it contracts, but it wont contract exactly to where it was, therefore staying a tiny bit longer. Over time the gap closes due to stretch and seat/valve face wear.
Lets say you have a 2.30 shim, a 2.35 will be a thicker shim, you would install the 2.35 to make your gap smaller. A 2.25 to make your measured gap larger.
Aftermarket shims purchased usually go in increments of .05.Example 2.20-2.25-2.30.
OEM shims are often seen in 1/2 size increments as well Example 2.25-2.27-2.30-2.32.

Generally 2.25 to a 2.30 is roughly .002 inch or two thousandths.
All the Japanese shims are measured in millimeters.
Of course here in the US our feeler gauges have both metric and standard on each blade.

I'd rather have my exhaust shim closer to the loose side of the spec if possible. But as long as they are within specs you're fine.
So. I have all the shims out. Of course with my luck, I can only read 1 of the shims exact number. the others are worn and I have no idea where my caliper went to after all the moving I have done in the last couple of years. I will have to go to the shop and get one or just have them measure them out. I have them taped to a piece of paper in the exact order they came out as if sitting on the seat. I wrote down the specs before pulling them out so I know how much I need to change.

Now with my specs. I know I pulled the Intake ones that were .11 and .12 even though they were in spec but they were to close for comfort. I want to give them some additional space. In your opinion, Would you pull the .13 if the spec is .10 - .20? I mean its close enough to the .15 mid range but still on the tighter end of spec. I want to be able to do this now and not have to worry about this for a few years depending on my riding.

I have to admit, I have never done a valve lash but this has to be the easiest job I have ever done. I didnt have to remove the cams at all. I backed the cam cap bolts out just enough for the rockers to come up to get the shims out. I used my heavy duty magnet to collect one at a time. I didnt have to mess with the chain tensioner or anything. Just the middle chain guide between the cams. Super easy and saved a ton of money.

THANK YOU TO EVERYONE!!
jespenshade12 is offline  
post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-13-2017, 08:16 PM
Racer
 
Racerxxxgsxr1000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Texas
Posts: 628
Good to hear man. I'd leave the .013 alone.
The valve adjustment on those are pretty nice.
Cam pullers on the later GSXR's gets a bit trickier with shim under buckets etc..
Also you can usually get a measuring caliper pretty cheap at local pawnshops.
Still today I use a standard dial caliper and just multiply inch by 25.4 to get Millimeters or divide metric by 25.4 to get inches.

I have used metric digital calipers, but the digital part seems to break pretty easy. Maybe because I bought the cheap ones I don't know.
jespenshade12 likes this.

.
.
.
.
.
.
"Crazy people don't know they're crazy, but I know I am, so I must not be crazy"
Racerxxxgsxr1000 is offline  
post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-14-2017, 03:33 AM Thread Starter
Rider
 
jespenshade12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Harrisburg, PA
Posts: 323
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Racerxxxgsxr1000 View Post
Good to hear man. I'd leave the .013 alone.
The valve adjustment on those are pretty nice.
Cam pullers on the later GSXR's gets a bit trickier with shim under buckets etc..
Also you can usually get a measuring caliper pretty cheap at local pawnshops.
Still today I use a standard dial caliper and just multiply inch by 25.4 to get Millimeters or divide metric by 25.4 to get inches.

I have used metric digital calipers, but the digital part seems to break pretty easy. Maybe because I bought the cheap ones I don't know.
I know what you mean. My gs500 was shim under bucket. Then again, i had the entire head off and lapped the valves.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
jespenshade12 is offline  
post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-15-2017, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
Rider
 
jespenshade12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Harrisburg, PA
Posts: 323
Garage
Well thats it. I was at the dealership today. Had them measure the shims I took off my bike, traded them in for the ones I needed. I got one hell of a deal. I gave him ones that he needed and took ones they didnt really use. They were priced at $7 a piece. I got 5 from him. He looked and saw that he was stocked up on all but was empty on only one size. He looked up the price of those and said he had to order 5 shims of that size. It cost the dealer $6.35 so thats what he charged me. He told me Happy Easter, gave all 5 kids a lolly pop and send me on my way. The guy was great. Got them installed, remeasured and I was golden on all of them. Started to put the bike back together before it got late enough for me to call it quits. May get to ride it tomorrow depending on how the kids to with Easter.
Racerxxxgsxr1000 likes this.
jespenshade12 is offline  
post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-15-2017, 07:23 PM
Racer
 
Racerxxxgsxr1000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Texas
Posts: 628
That's great man, good to hear.......5 kids? lol, that's a handful.
jespenshade12 likes this.

.
.
.
.
.
.
"Crazy people don't know they're crazy, but I know I am, so I must not be crazy"
Racerxxxgsxr1000 is offline  
post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-15-2017, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
Rider
 
jespenshade12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Harrisburg, PA
Posts: 323
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Racerxxxgsxr1000 View Post
That's great man, good to hear.......5 kids? lol, that's a handful.
The wife has 2, I have 2, and we had one together! Real life Brady bunch! I boy and 4 girls

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
jespenshade12 is offline  
post #21 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-16-2017, 03:03 AM
Lifetime Premium
 
Winchester Boy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Winchester Ky
Posts: 6,962
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by jespenshade12 View Post
all 5 kids
Didn't you know what was causing it?
Have a nice Easter with your family.
jespenshade12 likes this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tinsnips View Post
It was an "inflatable companion" not a doll.
Winchester Boy is online now  
post #22 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-16-2017, 04:25 AM Thread Starter
Rider
 
jespenshade12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Harrisburg, PA
Posts: 323
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Winchester Boy View Post
Didn't you know what was causing it?
Have a nice Easter with your family.
had to be something in the water..

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
jespenshade12 is offline  
post #23 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 12:22 PM Thread Starter
Rider
 
jespenshade12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Harrisburg, PA
Posts: 323
Garage
what a great feeling. I started out pretty ticked off last night. I didnt change anything with the carbs since I rode it last. I did the valve lash. Checked it after I put it all back together just to double check it. it was perfect. fixed a ton of wiring issues (not really issues but more routing to make it look cleaner). put the tank on and rolled her out to fire her up for the first time. Wouldn't you know, it started up but sounded extremely rough and didn't want to stay running. as it warmed up, the rpm dropped off. I tried for a while to get it started back up so I could at least see what was going.

I knew it was running rich since I didnt have to use any choke to fire her up. Every time I touched the throttle it made it worse. Eventually the battery died on me. I grabbed my bits and unscrewed the pilot screw on each carb 3/4 of a turn. Since the battery was dead, I couldnt test it. I just assumed that since she was super rich, 3/4 would be a good start point.

I got up this morning and hooked up the trickle charger. I packed my stuff for work and said goodbye to her. I decided to take a lunch break and go home. While home, I put the key in, pulled the choke and gave her a crank. She fired right up. no hesitation. She sounded great. Nice and smooth. Better then ever before. I cracked the throttle maybe 1/4 of the way and she screamed. Still no hesitation. I could tell she wanted to go.

Now I only let her run a minute or so since I had to get back to work but I knew right away that she sounded so much better. The only thing I have to do is put the front fairings back on and test ride her.

Again, Thanks to everyone who helped me through the long process of getting her running.
rv6john likes this.
jespenshade12 is offline  
post #24 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 04:01 PM
Racer
 
Racerxxxgsxr1000's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Texas
Posts: 628
Hey Jespen, those carbs should need about 2 1/2 turns out on lowspeed screws.
I'm suspecting either pilot jet is too large, or the float level is too high.
If you have anything larger than a stock pilot jet, I would replace it with a stock pilot. The stock pilot will be plenty for low speed.
I think you still have the 40mm carbs?

Verify what years have those carbs and look at the stock pilots for those years and compare. It's unlikely you have the California models(their jetting is always funky)

By the way, are your jet needles adjustable or just have one clip notch?

The biggest overlooked problem in carb jetting is worn needle jets/emulsion tubes. Here's a pic of one where the needle over time has worn/sawed into the needle jet. It happens on the intake side. If yours are egg shaped, you will never get your jetting right and it can be overly rich because the needle doesn't close the hole when down.


Your pilot jet works from needle fully down to about 1/4 up. Then you start pulling from your main jet. So worn needle jets more severely affect idle to 1/4 open needle slide.

.
.
.
.
.
.
"Crazy people don't know they're crazy, but I know I am, so I must not be crazy"

Last edited by Racerxxxgsxr1000; 04-19-2017 at 04:18 PM.
Racerxxxgsxr1000 is offline  
post #25 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
Rider
 
jespenshade12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Harrisburg, PA
Posts: 323
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Racerxxxgsxr1000 View Post
Hey Jespen, those carbs should need about 2 1/2 turns out on lowspeed screws.
I'm suspecting either pilot jet is too large, or the float level is too high.
If you have anything larger than a stock pilot jet, I would replace it with a stock pilot. The stock pilot will be plenty for low speed.
I think you still have the 40mm carbs?

Verify what years have those carbs and look at the stock pilots for those years and compare. It's unlikely you have the California models(their jetting is always funky)

By the way, are your jet needles adjustable or just have one clip notch?

The biggest overlooked problem in carb jetting is worn needle jets/emulsion tubes. Here's a pic of one where the needle over time has worn/sawed into the needle jet. It happens on the intake side. If yours are egg shaped, you will never get your jetting right and it can be overly rich because the needle doesn't close the hole when down.


Your pilot jet works from needle fully down to about 1/4 up. Then you start pulling from your main jet. So worn needle jets more severely affect idle to 1/4 open needle slide.
Well your right on the money. My pilot jets are at 2.5 turns out. Thats the only way it will run

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
jespenshade12 is offline  
post #26 of 26 (permalink) Old 04-19-2017, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
Rider
 
jespenshade12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Harrisburg, PA
Posts: 323
Garage
Just rode it about 10 miles. Started a little rich but needed choke. Idles with no issue. Road in town then highway. Got her to 135 and held her there for a solid 2 miles. No hesitation getting there ir staying there. Pulled harder to hit 145. The only issue now is a small oil leak somewhere up high. Considering I only removed 3 covers, it should be easy to find. It seems like the valve cover breather.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
Racerxxxgsxr1000 likes this.
jespenshade12 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the GSXR.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome