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03 1000 keeps shutting down, no fi light. Im about to sell the bike, need help.

9K views 44 replies 14 participants last post by  SRAD600 
#1 ·
I ve posted about this problem before, and still can't figure this problem out. My 03 Gsxr 1000 keeps shutting down after about an hour of riding, the engine will just cut out with no fi light, some of the things that I thought it was originally, were, new headers, power commander, tip over sensor, kickstand switch, fuel filter, spark plugs, all these items were changed. I just recently got a major tune up and still no solution. It shuts off in any gear, almost in any rpm range. When it cuts out, i usually get a check engine signal, when i clear the screen i could turn the bike back on immediately, sometimes as soon as i drop it into gear it shuts off, and sometimes it dosen't. I have alot of people scratching their heads on this problem, so if anyone thinks they know what the problem is then im all ears. This problem is pissing me off so much that im about to just sell my bike. This is my last effort at saving it.
 
#4 ·
It sounds like your fuel pump to me. Especially if it is doing it after you ride for a while.
 
#6 ·
yea, i checked for codes c00. nothing. and as far as a fuel pump, a mechanic told me that its probably not that because the pump would have nothing to do with the heat. im kind of hesitant to buy a new pump, especially if thats not the problem. and wouldn't the fuel pump throw me some codes?
 
#7 ·
Im not sure I would agree with the fuel pump having nothing to do with the heat. The pump will heat up after running for a while. Especially seeing how hot the fuel can get in the tanks of these bikes. The more fuel you have in the tank, the longer it would take to heat up. You can see if a full tank or low tank makes any diffrence in running time and that may help you lean towards a new pump or not. Im not sure if the pumps in these bikes have any kind of thermal protection, might be something to look into. If its getting to hot and the thermal protection is shutting it off. Have you checked battery and rectifier voltage? Good luck!
 
#11 ·
it used to sputter and struggle but now it just dies, the revs completely die down. and as far as checking for codes, i didn't shut the bike down. The dealer gave me a switch to check the codes and it was hanging out the bike while i was riding. so as it died i could check for codes.
 
#12 ·
i guess what i reallly want to know is what could be shutting down my bike that shows no codes. Can a fuel pump be malfunctioning without throwing codes, or can it be something else. I talked to a dealer and he mentioned that he thinks that it cant be the pump based on that the pump throws codes.
 
#13 · (Edited)
do you have an ignition interrupt on the handle bars?

and yes the fuel pump can come on and go out when the bike heats up. im not sure if it will through codes. but most of the time when the pump goes out it will struggle for a few seconds while the bike uses what fuel pressure is left and not just shut off.
 
#15 · (Edited)
my 2002 gsxr 600 did this. it would just shut off after riding awhile. somtimes it would kinda start when i pulled clutch in, but then die when i let out of clutch. damn thing did it one day while i was running wot in 6th trying to cathc up with some friend of mine. coasted down from like 150mph. it tried abunch of stuff, checking tip sensors, kick stand, ect. got same error code you did. never did find out why it did it. it just stopped. but now I got another problem, that picked up as soon as this one stopped. mt bike has a severe loss in power. i jst put a post in here on it. good luck with it.
 
#16 ·
i am wondering about fuel pump in mine. Its wierd that it will start back up. i know only main changes i did, and i think i did it after all this happened, not sure because it was 2 years ago, was my ignition switch was messing up. connectors were loose inside little white box thing. i fixed it. but I really cant remember if it was before or after my other problems.
 
#17 ·
Starting problems

When you have a mechanical situation that your have no idea what it is the best thing to do is process of elimination.

1. Check the power commander ground make sure it is not grounded to the frame, but directly to the battery ground.

2. If that is good I would remove the power commander altogether and ride it without it and see what happens.

3. You need to determine if it is fuel or an electrical problem and it sounds as if you still have power when it dies, so I would tend to look at fuel.

4. You might find some one with a dyno and run it for an hour on it with all the stuff hooked up and see if it dies while on the dyno then you would be able to see if it was fuel or electrical.
 
#18 ·
its def. not the power commander, i bypassed that last year on the road, when it died on the side of the road i picked up the fuel tank and disconnected the pc. and it still died. Next i thought it was the fuel filter, nope. Next was the spark plugs, nope. Two different mechanics tried to fix it, but they couldn't duplicate the problem. So here i go trying to figure it out myself again. Kept looking at the forum, some people mentioned that it was the tip over sensor or the sidestand switch, so i changed those, nope. it wasn't that. I think that it is the fuel pump, but im kind of hesitant to spend 500 dollars on something that might not be the problem. The more i think about it though, the more im leaning to just replacing the pump. I ll do it myself cause it seems pretty simple and if its not that then that is it.:thefinger
 
#19 ·
I'm agreeing with you on the pump. I've had the same issue.

Do what I did. Get an extra fuel line from the tank to the fuel rail if you don't want to cut into yours. Use high pressure barb fittings and put on a T hooked to a hose and pressure gauge you can see while your riding. I'm not saying that this will pinpoint it but between this and checking the voltage to your pump, you should be able to eliminate an issue before spening big cash on a pump.

I have seen this exact problem before and the bearings in the pump were going out causing it to spin slower and not delivering enough fuel pressure. Oh, and the pump doesn't throw any codes when your fuel pressure is low.
 
#21 ·
that is it then, im going to order the pump today, and then run the shit out of the bike this weekend. hopefully if all goes well then my frustration will be over. When changing the pump, is the o ring the only additional part that i have to be buy, or is there something else that i need?
 
#22 ·
Most of the pumps come with the O-ring.

Before I jumped off and changed the fuel pump, even though I have a feeling thats what it is, I would check the voltage running down the road. Easy check before spending a bunch of cash.
 
#25 ·
Harbor Freight you can find cheap volt meters. Thexton makes this tool for automobiles that you plug into the plug wire and it has a suction cup on it to attach it to the windsheild so you can see it while you are driving. If the light stays on when it dies its a fuel problem if it goes out then it is an electrical problem. Used it on a HD one day and found it had a bad crimp on the positive battery cable end and everytime he rev it up it would vibrate loose and the bike would spudder. This guy bought a new carb and drop 1k trying to fix it and a $15 tool fix it. You got to get back to the basics and look for the little stuff.
 
#26 ·
stator rectifier connector

I had a similar problem that plagued me for months.
I have a 2002 gsxr 1000. it simply would quit. anytime anywhere after about an hour or two.

it was the voltage regulator/rectifier connector between the stator and the reg/rectifier. On my bike the rectifier is bolted to the sub frame on the left side. When I took the rear body cowl off and pulled the connector apart it was burnt and melted. So when the bike ran for an hour or so, heat would build up in the bad connector and it would fail. I replaced it and "happy trails" again!

Mike
 
#28 ·
I had a similar problem that plagued me for months.
I have a 2002 gsxr 1000. it simply would quit. anytime anywhere after about an hour or two.

it was the voltage regulator/rectifier connector between the stator and the reg/rectifier. On my bike the rectifier is bolted to the sub frame on the left side. When I took the rear body cowl off and pulled the connector apart it was burnt and melted. So when the bike ran for an hour or so, heat would build up in the bad connector and it would fail. I replaced it and "happy trails" again!

Mike
just checked the voltage regulator/rectifier and all connections associated, and everything looks good. nothing corroded or even close to being so.
 
#27 ·
I just read this on another thread...

same problem as I had and maybe you have..

"Tro you are absolutly correct I never knew what that was until i looked it up.....well i took it off the bike and unplugged it and noticed that one of the connector things was burnt out so its clearly a bad rectifier regulator. but now here is the issue it only burned that one prong on both the reg and the harness where you connect it....i will buy a new reg but what should i do about the harness?"
Bryanfav123 is offline Report Post Reply With Quote
 
#31 ·
So you looked at the rectifier. Did you also look at the connection from the stator to the rectifier? I've seen a lot of those burn out.

Still leanin towards the fuel pump though.
 
#32 ·
which connection is that? all connections look good though, ran through all connections quickly. the pump sounds real good when i start the bike. so hopefully it is the pump malfunctioning with heat. i put the order in for the pump, found it for 420 dollars online, cheaper than most sites that ive checked. does anyone have any tips or reminders when replacing the whole fuel pump?
 
#33 ·
Well I hope the new pump fixes your problem. But like others are saying, a Multi Meter (Volt Meter) is DEFINATELY a good tool to have for troubleshooting problems like this. Home Depot sells them in the electrical tools section and you can probably pick up a pretty decent one for $60-100, Im sure any automotive store could also hook you up with a decent meter that would be more specificly for automotive applications. But if it saves you one trip to the mechanic, then its paid for its self.

Good luck with that pump!
 
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