Valve adjustment - GSXR.com
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
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Valve adjustment

Coming up on my valve adjustment, thinking about trying to go for it and do it myself, but if I took it to a shop what would be a reasonable price?

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 10:03 PM
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around here most shops charge a general rate of 75hr

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 11:38 PM
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the lowest quote i found in my area (sacramento) was $215 just to inspect. If adjustment was necessary then its an extra $150 plus parts, im assuming the cost of shims...
needless to say i bought a set of feeler gauges and inspected myself, pretty easy to do but it took me a day to tear down and inspect and another to put it back together...

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-29-2011, 01:14 AM
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I would check it yourself first, its practically free. Doesn't take much time either. In case you don't already know how to do it, heres a write up I did awhile back. How To: Valve Clearance Inspection
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-29-2011, 04:01 AM
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I just did this on my 07 1000. It's been about 10yrs since I've done a valve check/adjustment myself. (never kept a bike long enough to worry about it)
Checking the valves is easy, making the adjustments is another story, but it's not that bad either. Just take your time, have the right tools and follow the manual to a 'T'.

A few things to point out if you have to make valve adjustments:

Get a 1/4" torque wrench in in/lbs. Cam caps on my bike are 7lb/fts.
Don't try to do that with an 18" long, 3/8 or 1/2 torque wrench.
It will not be accurate and the consequences of breaking a bolt in the head is too great to chance.
Setting the cams with proper torque on the cam caps is critical.

You will need a micrometer or a vernier caliper to measure the shims. Manual says to mic them, but from my research, a $30 vernier caliper is as accurate as a $200 Starrett mic and will work just fine.
I bought the $30 caliper but compared it to my works' high-dollar devices and it was spot on.
Make sure you measure each shim, don't go by the number stamped on the shim. They are sometimes not accurate, even brand new ones.

Go ahead and buy a new cam chain tensioner gasket. You will need it.
You should be able to re-use the valve cover gasket though.

Make sure you set the cams/timing correct. Double, triple check, have your buddy check for you, get a second opinion, etc....you do not want to crank the motor with the cams out of timing, not even by a single tooth on the cam sprockets....bad things will happen...

Once you get the motor TDC, put the spark plugs back in or stuff something that won't leave 'cotton balls or lint' in the cylinder.
You do not want to drop a dowel pin from the cam journals or a shim into the motor.

Do one shim at a time. Record each shim, each valve...keep good records/diagrams of each shim size and the valve that it goes to.

Here's a pic of what happens when cams are out of time and you start the motor or attempt to start the motor.
The pic is the top of the piston taken with an expensive boroscope and you can see where the exhaust valve hit the piston. This happened on all (4) pistons.
End result, (8) bent EX valves at $75 each from Suzuki.

bentvalvepics.jpg

Last edited by gapman789; 01-29-2011 at 04:07 AM.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-29-2011, 04:30 AM
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Thanks for the info!
Quote:
Originally Posted by gapman789 View Post
I just did this on my 07 1000. It's been about 10yrs since I've done a valve check/adjustment myself. (never kept a bike long enough to worry about it)
Checking the valves is easy, making the adjustments is another story, but it's not that bad either. Just take your time, have the right tools and follow the manual to a 'T'.

A few things to point out if you have to make valve adjustments:

Get a 1/4" torque wrench in in/lbs. Cam caps on my bike are 7lb/fts.
Don't try to do that with an 18" long, 3/8 or 1/2 torque wrench.
It will not be accurate and the consequences of breaking a bolt in the head is too great to chance.
Setting the cams with proper torque on the cam caps is critical.

You will need a micrometer or a vernier caliper to measure the shims. Manual says to mic them, but from my research, a $30 vernier caliper is as accurate as a $200 Starrett mic and will work just fine.
I bought the $30 caliper but compared it to my works' high-dollar devices and it was spot on.
Make sure you measure each shim, don't go by the number stamped on the shim. They are sometimes not accurate, even brand new ones.

Go ahead and buy a new cam chain tensioner gasket. You will need it.
You should be able to re-use the valve cover gasket though.

Make sure you set the cams/timing correct. Double, triple check, have your buddy check for you, get a second opinion, etc....you do not want to crank the motor with the cams out of timing, not even by a single tooth on the cam sprockets....bad things will happen...

Once you get the motor TDC, put the spark plugs back in or stuff something that won't leave 'cotton balls or lint' in the cylinder.
You do not want to drop a dowel pin from the cam journals or a shim into the motor.

Do one shim at a time. Record each shim, each valve...keep good records/diagrams of each shim size and the valve that it goes to.

Here's a pic of what happens when cams are out of time and you start the motor or attempt to start the motor.
The pic is the top of the piston taken with an expensive boroscope and you can see where the exhaust valve hit the piston. This happened on all (4) pistons.
End result, (8) bent EX valves at $75 each from Suzuki.

Attachment 29876
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 01-29-2011, 05:28 AM
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I was quoted $400 to check up to $700 to add shims yikes!!
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