Hello all... I picked up a used 1000 motor and did the swap on my 600. I got everything installed and started it with no problems. The second day the motor started spitting out a ton of blue smoke. I figure maybe from sitting out might need to be run. I take the bike out and it pulls hard! I look in the mirrors and thus thing is bellowing so much smoke you'd think this was James Bond's super smoke screen mod.
I get the bike back home and year it back down to have a look at the plugs. The cylinder closest to the clutch lever has oil on it and the rest just carbon. I also noticed that I've got oil getting into the exhaust system. I figured it couldn't be rings because the bike pulls way harder than the 750 I had swapped out.
I'm leaning towards a worn valve seal as the culprit. My oil looked perfectly fine and so did my coolant. If anyone has any ideas that could help if really appreciate some insight.
Valve seal will only smoke at start up mostly. That much smoke means piston/ring damage. The oil control ring is probably wasted.
Its directly below the top two rings.
Unfortunately, you'll need to pull motor and top end and inspect.
You can still have compression with oil getting by, and often that oil passing by heavily will seal compression loss. It just smokes like a freight train.
I'd start by testing each cylinder like John mentioned, if bad pull head and look at cylinders by moving pistons up and down for each.
Sorry to hear brotha. Sometimes we win and sometimes we dont.
Thanks for the help. I plan to take this advice and do a leak down test this weekend. I'll let you guys know if I get lucky or need a go fund me account to get me outta jail ?
Ok so I got around to the leak down and compressor test. Cylinder 3 was leaking and had oil on the top of the piston when I got the head off. Compression numbers were pretty low on all cylinders ranging from 120psi (cylinder 1) to 80psi (by cylinder 4). I know bummer!
So now I'm in the process of cleaning things up and am ready to buy bearings. I'm trying to understand this whole clearance thing and it's a little confusing. The bearings appear to have the brown color code on them. So from what I understand I don't just go by color code I need to measure with a micrometer and dial bore gauge right?
I've found the code on the crank and it reads just like the service manual L2222R and the rods read 2 which says I need brown. However I'm going with a different rod and piston set so will the main bearings stay the same? And do I install the old bearings in the new rods to get a reference for the new rod bearing choice? The rods didn't come with a spec card so it's making things a little more difficult.
So you have some year 1k engine put in some year 600 bike with non-stock rods and probably a worn crank. That is why I didn't respond earlier. I would have no clue with the information you provide.
All the specs are in the manual, you just need to get a some micrometers out, measure all the I.D.s and O.D.s and see what will match up. Confirm everything with plastigage.
I'll suggest you take the crank and connecting rods to an engine or machine shop and let them measure them for you.
The crankshaft journals will be the same if not damaged.
A dial bore gauge is best for measuring cylinders and if they are oval shaped due to wear. The snap "T" gauges are ok, but you'll need a good micrometer to measure those.
Crank bearings are entirely dependent on how much journal wear you have. If all your journals are in spec, you can usually use the color code bearings they recommend. But no matter what you decide, all ways plasti-gauge. Keep in mind if your rod or crank turns even slightly when torqueing, the plasti-gauge wont give a correct indication.
Any rod bolts you remove must be replaced, their torque values are based with rod bolt stretch taken in account on their torque numbers.
About the rod bolts....I have new bolts but when I torque then down in the plasti gauge procedure do I need to replace them again or crank them back down in final reassembly?
Understood... Thanks. If I get it right the rebuild should be sick! High compression, h-beam rods, ported heads, cams, and adjustable gears. Hoping to surprise a few people.
It does get expensive real quick. Many people just try to get a low mileage motor and swap if they are good with stock.
Just a nice set of quality cams cam easily be 900.00
Keep in mind, if those cylinders have any damage, they will need to be recoated, they do not have steel liners.
They are "Nikasyl" it is a specific metal coating over aluminum.
I cant remember how thick the coating is, something like .030" thick.
If the coating hasn't flaked and the look good "and not oval" you can probably just install pistons. I do not recommend honing either.
If there is damage, you'll need to send the cylinders out for recoating.
The cylinders are in pretty good shape. I was wondering about the honing though. The Manuel says don't home either but the wiseco directing said the cylinders must be deglazed.
Hello everyone....I need someone to tell me what the third and fourth lines a represent. I know the top is the crankshaft balancer, the second is for the crankshaft journals but I'm not sure about lines three and four. Does anybody know? These come off the upper crankcase housing.
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