Best Welder for Frames? Comments from Pro/Experienced Welders Welcome! -
  • 2 Post By Racerxxxgsxr1000
  • 1 Post By torrid_pace
  • 1 Post By Winchester Boy
  • 1 Post By DrKnow65
  • 1 Post By apiazza
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
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Best Welder for Frames? Comments from Pro/Experienced Welders Welcome!

Im trying to rebuild a k5 600 track bike. One of the tasks is to repair the shifter side rearset mounting tab as it has sheared in half. Simple job really for an experienced metal fabricator but will probably be hell for me! Im thinking the broken tab just needs to be cut off and a new piece of aluminum needs to be drilled, tapped and then welded back on.

The last time I welded something it was over 10 years ago in high school shop class and it was using basic stick welder. Looks like I will need to work with 1/4" aluminum for the new rearset tab. I am looking at picking up a used TIG/stick machine just to dick around with in the garage off of CL.

After doing some newb googling Im guessing I'll need to TIG that bad boy on there using 3/32" electrode and filler rode with a machine capable of running 190-200 amps?

Im leaning towards buying a miller syncrowave 210 but there is a kick ass deal on an older canox redcat 2 which I could pretend being a rig welder with

what do the pro and experienced welders have to say about this? any comments, guidance and thoughts are appreciated!!
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 11:39 AM Thread Starter
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I should mention that I plan to run the input power from my 220V dryer outlet using a long extension cord....50amp breaker panel I believe this probably is not safe??
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 12:08 PM
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I'd have a professional weld that. That's just one of the items on a frame that can get you hurt quick if it breaks off.
Body panel tab or something isn't a big deal.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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ya I was thinking about it more and more...good point maybe I will just spend the 150 bucks to get a journeyman to do it for me....I just wanted an excuse to buy a new cool toy I guess
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by torrid_pace View Post
I should mention that I plan to run the input power from my 220V dryer outlet using a long extension cord....50amp breaker panel I believe this probably is not safe??
I'm not an electrician but I do know that if the welder has a 4 prong plug then the extension cord and outlet must also be 4 prong. If not you will become the 4th prong.
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 03:34 PM
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I'll toss my hat in,

I say because of the racing/motorcycle nature of the beast, you want a proficient welder to do the work. You don't want to mess with the heating and time welding the repair as oxidation will make the aluminum junk structurally. Not the right place to hone your new-to-me welder and new-period skills.

Go to the nearest Miller/Lincoln/Airgas type store and hit up the guy behind the counter as to whom to take the work to. That guy knows most every decent welder in the area from sales, and can likely point out the fabricator who buys the most aluminum TIG rod...

Other option is to hit up what ever local Trade school or Tech collage is around. See if the instructor will do it as a demo to get the new recruits interested in practical applications for their potential new skills :-)

Side note: I've never struck an arc with anything nicer than a Miller Synchrowave LX, the best, period. That being said, for my home shop a top offering from Everlast was WAY more cost effective and left me with cash for the TON of accessories, water cooler, gas bottles, consumables, grinders, clamps, $350 helmet, gloves, vest, sleeves, test plates, better torch(es), blah, blah, blah. I can swing the lower duty cycle of the lesser machine and I can have one for AC-DC TIG/Stick, one for MIG, and a Plasma cutter to boot. The reality is most of the time they sit idle despite my fondest ambitions. Sweet to have when the need arises though.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 05:43 AM
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I had the same tab break off my K4 600. I took the frame to my local independent motorcycle shop. He has a guy with a race shop do all his weld repairs. Had it back to me in 3 days for less than $100.

They cut the whole tab off and replaced it. I gave them the rearset mounting plate to make sure everything was straight. If you don't have experience welding cast aluminum, I don't think I would make this job the one to learn on. Only part the really sucked is I had the strip the bike down to the frame, otherwise you will be paying them to pull the swing arm off before being able to weld.
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