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post #81 of 1494 (permalink) Old 06-29-2013, 04:17 PM
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I have to wait until next weekend for 2 days at Road Atlanta

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post #82 of 1494 (permalink) Old 07-14-2013, 02:56 PM
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Do any of you guys use heat sheild on your track plastics?

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post #83 of 1494 (permalink) Old 07-14-2013, 03:01 PM Thread Starter
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My bike was in track trim when I bought it and there is a lil heat shielding on the under belly around the header area.



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post #84 of 1494 (permalink) Old 07-14-2013, 03:49 PM
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Do any of you guys use heat sheild on your track plastics?
I did mine like this


No Problems


Using this

http://www.motosport.com/motorcycle/...tACool-12-x-12

It comes in larger size, and tape.

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post #85 of 1494 (permalink) Old 07-14-2013, 04:02 PM
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Is the fiberglass gonna melt like plastic would?

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post #86 of 1494 (permalink) Old 07-14-2013, 04:04 PM
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I use to have some on mine but than it got wet and started coming off. I havent had any issues with it yet.

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post #87 of 1494 (permalink) Old 07-15-2013, 05:23 AM
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Is it possible to use a pitbull trs with a grate deck instead of a wooden one? Trailer shopping so i need to figure a few things out. Also are they removable? So when i pit my dirt bikes in there it wont conflict with them?

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post #88 of 1494 (permalink) Old 07-15-2013, 05:42 AM
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I wouldn't mount directly due to the movement the grate does.

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post #89 of 1494 (permalink) Old 07-15-2013, 06:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twnorton View Post
Is it possible to use a pitbull trs with a grate deck instead of a wooden one? Trailer shopping so i need to figure a few things out. Also are they removable? So when i pit my dirt bikes in there it wont conflict with them?
your profile gif makes me want to punch a mofo

I think you could do it if you bolted a sheet of metal down than bolt the TRS to that. The TRS does come with really big washers but Idk I think it would move to much for my liking. I hate being able to see a bike on a trailer.

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post #90 of 1494 (permalink) Old 07-15-2013, 06:41 AM
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I hate being able to see a bike on a trailer.
Why is that.

Pretty much confirmed what i thought. I have to go with a wooden deck, which is fine by me

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post #91 of 1494 (permalink) Old 07-15-2013, 06:45 AM
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I watch the bike more than I watch the road

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post #92 of 1494 (permalink) Old 07-15-2013, 06:57 AM
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There was a thread in hear a while back that someone had this same dilemma with the mesh trailer. They mounted a black painted marine grade plywood band just across the back of the trailer where the PRS was to be mounted.

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post #93 of 1494 (permalink) Old 07-15-2013, 09:11 AM
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Ill see if i can dig it up

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post #94 of 1494 (permalink) Old 07-21-2013, 08:31 PM
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Aftermarket clip on Q...for you track junkies??

This is my 2nd year doing track days on my 2011 Suzi 750....what is the advantage of after market clip on's 7 degree over the stock ones. So anyone please fill me in.... thanks
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post #95 of 1494 (permalink) Old 07-23-2013, 06:42 PM
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Quote:
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This is my 2nd year doing track days on my 2011 Suzi 750....what is the advantage of after market clip on's 7 degree over the stock ones. So anyone please fill me in.... thanks
Almost 48 hours and no expert opinions?

I have to assume you're referring to Vortex when you say "7 degree".



Going out on a limb here: I think the stock clip ons or any other aftermarket clip on a near the same angle.

IMO, Woodcraft parts are better.
Eric Wood is a racer and he puts a lot of thought into his products.
The clip ons are just one example of a superior part:


That said, the real difference in stock vs. quality aftermarket clip ons is in the strength of the material used.
Billet is far more rigid than the cast oem part.
That equals less flex and better feel on the steering inputs and tire feedback.
Same with rear sets.




That is all!


Last edited by SlowSteve; 07-23-2013 at 06:45 PM.
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post #96 of 1494 (permalink) Old 07-23-2013, 07:53 PM
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I didnt change clipons until I went down and damaged the oems. I agree with the above. The other benefit to the aftermarket is you can just change out the bar for peanuts after a down vs not being able to.

The less/greater angle only from what I could see is give you wrist relief. Maybe for people suffering from injuries or just comfort. Tweaking with + or - degrees can help. Idk the 7 degree works for my wrist.

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post #97 of 1494 (permalink) Old 07-24-2013, 08:06 AM
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Moto GP or standard shift

I have asked many people which they prefer and it boils
down to personal preference. But I have tried the moto GP
shift on both the track and a mountain run. On the track I
missed a few shifts caused I wasn't used to it and the shifting
is allot quicker on the track. On a mountain run even tho we were
Riding pretty hard, the shifts are more relaxed and you can concentrate more when you shift. I am starting to like the moto
GP shift. I got ZERO false nuetrals and it seemed a little smoother
and seamless. I have been riding the standard shift for over 20 years and thought I would never like or get used to GP shift.
I should be getting my bike back this week (another long story).
I have a track day this Sunday and if I have my bike I will switch
it to the GP shift. It can be changed in 10 mins by someone who
knows how to do it. I just have to remember one up five down....
Lol. I think I will tape that on my speedo for the track day.

Opinions.....preferences....or what you heard from somebody else.
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post #98 of 1494 (permalink) Old 07-24-2013, 08:57 AM
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post #99 of 1494 (permalink) Old 08-01-2013, 07:59 PM
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Last week, Slow Steve thanks for the response, that is what I was looking for....I thought about changing them, I may just so I can see if it helps with the comfort...thanks again
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post #100 of 1494 (permalink) Old 08-04-2013, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFM GSXR 750 View Post
I have asked many people which they prefer and it boils
down to personal preference. But I have tried the moto GP
shift on both the track and a mountain run. On the track I
missed a few shifts caused I wasn't used to it and the shifting
is allot quicker on the track. On a mountain run even tho we were
Riding pretty hard, the shifts are more relaxed and you can concentrate more when you shift. I am starting to like the moto
GP shift. I got ZERO false nuetrals and it seemed a little smoother
and seamless. I have been riding the standard shift for over 20 years and thought I would never like or get used to GP shift.
I should be getting my bike back this week (another long story).
I have a track day this Sunday and if I have my bike I will switch
it to the GP shift. It can be changed in 10 mins by someone who
knows how to do it. I just have to remember one up five down....
Lol. I think I will tape that on my speedo for the track day.

Opinions.....preferences....or what you heard from somebody else.

it all depends on how you feel. some people like it, others don't.
there's no right or wrong answer to this...

most racers like it, because its more relaxing on straights and during upshifts. specially if you're running a quick shifter
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post #101 of 1494 (permalink) Old 08-04-2013, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFM GSXR 750 View Post
I have asked many people which they prefer and it boils
down to personal preference. But I have tried the moto GP
shift on both the track and a mountain run. On the track I
missed a few shifts caused I wasn't used to it and the shifting
is allot quicker on the track. On a mountain run even tho we were
Riding pretty hard, the shifts are more relaxed and you can concentrate more when you shift. I am starting to like the moto
GP shift. I got ZERO false nuetrals and it seemed a little smoother
and seamless. I have been riding the standard shift for over 20 years and thought I would never like or get used to GP shift.
I should be getting my bike back this week (another long story).
I have a track day this Sunday and if I have my bike I will switch
it to the GP shift. It can be changed in 10 mins by someone who
knows how to do it. I just have to remember one up five down....
Lol. I think I will tape that on my speedo for the track day.

Opinions.....preferences....or what you heard from somebody else.
I've used both on the track and the GP is more natural once you train your mind that up is down and down is up lol!

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post #102 of 1494 (permalink) Old 08-28-2013, 08:07 PM
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Lets talk trail braking .

I've been using it a lot more these past few weeks. Slowly getting better and better.

Here's my problem... When I find my self at the apex, I've noticed that I'm more concerned with concentrating on stopping the trail brake and rolling on the throttle than I am my BP line choice.

I know it will take practice but it seams like I'm going through the same corners slower than before I understood what trail braking was all about.

Loading the inside peg and dropping my inside shoulder and elbow has helped. But I still need to relax and put it all together.

Pointers?

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post #103 of 1494 (permalink) Old 08-28-2013, 08:13 PM
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I dont know if what i do is considered trail braking...

I dont use the front brakes to settle into a corner, I use the rear...Which i know alot of people frown upon.

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post #104 of 1494 (permalink) Old 08-29-2013, 08:06 AM
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Trail braking is used to scuff off speed. You should be going in soo hard that you're Trailbraking all the way to the apex. As soon as you come off the brake you immediately load the outside peg and get on the throttle. As you leave the apex you should be off the bike, outside peg loaded, rolling throttle, bike on the fat of the tires as much as possible. ( this is a corner to a straight scenario) remember the faster you go into a corner the slower you come out.

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post #105 of 1494 (permalink) Old 08-29-2013, 09:44 AM
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Can you go into more detail on loading the outside peg? I feel like I'm putting too much weight on my inside peg, but how do you load the outside peg when you're off the bike?

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post #106 of 1494 (permalink) Old 08-29-2013, 10:13 AM
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post #107 of 1494 (permalink) Old 08-29-2013, 11:54 AM
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Can you go into more detail on loading the outside peg? I feel like I'm putting too much weight on my inside peg, but how do you load the outside peg when you're off the bike?
You shouldn't put any weight to the inside peg. The whole objective is to keep as much of the fat of the tire in contact with the surface. If you apply weight to the inside you essentially are dragging the bike down. Not good bc gravity will win this battle. Cornerspeed, radius, and camber determine the lean angle. your bike is an object moving across a fixed plane. The reason you see the pros all the way down and their bikes to is bc there is no more speed that can be applied to the available tech to allow the bike to ride at a more open angle. They are at max. Me and you are nowhere near that level. You can actually slow yourself down by leaning too much with not enough speed.....as well this wears the inside of your hips out leaving you fatigued. ( that tremble feeling in your quads and inner hips during corner transitions )

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post #108 of 1494 (permalink) Old 08-29-2013, 12:04 PM
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As a disclaimer, im no pro. This technique works for me.

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post #109 of 1494 (permalink) Old 08-29-2013, 12:17 PM
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Quote:
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You shouldn't put any weight to the inside peg. The whole objective is to keep as much of the fat of the tire in contact with the surface. If you apply weight to the inside you essentially are dragging the bike down. Not good bc gravity will win this battle. Cornerspeed, radius, and camber determine the lean angle. your bike is an object moving across a fixed plane. The reason you see the pros all the way down and their bikes to is bc there is no more speed that can be applied to the available tech to allow the bike to ride at a more open angle. They are at max. Me and you are nowhere near that level. You can actually slow yourself down by leaning too much with not enough speed.....as well this wears the inside of your hips out leaving you fatigued. ( that tremble feeling in your quads and inner hips during corner transitions )

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Yeah, that all makes sense. That's something I definitely need to work on my next time out. My quads have been way too tired and I can tell it's because I'm putting too much weight on the inside. I need to focus on using my outer leg to support me more.

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post #110 of 1494 (permalink) Old 08-29-2013, 12:59 PM
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19 HRS and I will be here

Lucky Dog!

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post #111 of 1494 (permalink) Old 08-29-2013, 03:39 PM
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Here's a great thread on the Nesba boards about trail braking.

http://tracktalk.nesba.com/showthread.php?t=16807

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post #112 of 1494 (permalink) Old 08-29-2013, 07:08 PM Thread Starter
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Good reads LW.

While I am by no means fast, I can vouch for the "it should be instinct and not forced" comments. Ive noticed my self doing it when needed to control my "line" to the apex or when in traffic but I never realize Im doing it till after.

Some times Ive thought afterwards...shit was that bad to be on the brakes there. Then I realize I was trail braking....then I realize I need to stop thinking and start fawking riding lol.



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post #113 of 1494 (permalink) Old 08-29-2013, 07:18 PM
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Your fucking right you do.

Need to stop thinking and just rideeeeeeeeeeeee

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post #114 of 1494 (permalink) Old 08-29-2013, 07:40 PM
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If you come off the brake 10 ft before the apex, just push your brake marker 2-5 ft deeper before turn in. You can also nuetral throttle thru your turn to make the line smoother while trail braking..... it also makes the roll on to pin a way smoother transaction vs a lunge in power that could result in a "oh shit moment" for the rider lol!

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post #115 of 1494 (permalink) Old 08-29-2013, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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You mean just hold a steady throttle at just "open"? You cant mean close the throttle because would give you the jolt for sure.



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post #116 of 1494 (permalink) Old 08-29-2013, 08:32 PM
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Nuetral throttle is holding\matching engine rotation and wheel rotation. So you're giving it throttle but its not gaining you any speed but you aren't losing any either. The throttle tube position is relative to the speed.

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post #117 of 1494 (permalink) Old 08-29-2013, 08:33 PM
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Sorry I suck at explaining this lol, I don't really think about it I just do it.

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post #118 of 1494 (permalink) Old 08-30-2013, 03:00 AM Thread Starter
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Nah man that made sense. I'm just making sure I know the terminology.

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post #119 of 1494 (permalink) Old 09-03-2013, 06:22 PM
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Sidi Corsa boot heel has been scuffing the hell outta the swingarm (2006 750)....sole of the boot positioned on the peg.

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Anybody else seem to have this problem, my feets ain't that big, 9.5?
Maybe it is the boot brand....

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post #120 of 1494 (permalink) Old 09-03-2013, 06:40 PM
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I use the SIDI ST Air size 12 and they do the same thing. The red rubber pads that run on the inner and outer heal have been used up like an eraser...now it scuffs.




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