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Preparing for a Trackday...

33K views 61 replies 51 participants last post by  design-engine 
#1 ·
In recent years, sportbike enthusiasts have taken trackday riding to new levels. We all have questions, we all have concerns, we all have budgets, but we all share a common goal - to get our bikes in the arena they are meant for; The track!

A friend of mine created the list below and I have modified it. I feel there is ample information on here for trackday enthusiasts - beginner and advanced alike. By the way, I have seen riders show up wearing their gear, riding their bike, remove a couple of fuses, tape the turn signals, head and taillights, remove the mirrors and hit the track. This is what and all you need to do. This list is here in case you want to take it to the next level and beyond.

In red, you will see commentary on price and other notables. The prices are obviously from a low range to a high range. This is meant to offer the beginner an idea of what expenses the rest of us have paid to maintain our obsession.

If any of you have any other suggestions, please post them and I will update the list accordingly. Otherwise, print this out and keep it in your gear bag as a reminder on what you need or should do prior to and after a trackday. Safe riding :thumbup:

Items to check before a track day

Lower:

Front axle bolt tight.
Fork pinch bolts tight.
Brake caliper bolts tights.
Brake pads not worn to depth indicators.
Brake pistons clean and no leaking fluid.
Fork seals good and no leaks (inspect the legs for bug debris and rock dings, keep clean).
Tires have sufficient tread and in good wear condition (no cracks from winter storage or dry rot 230.00 – 350.00 set).
Wheel weights present and taped in place.
Valve caps present (Use metal valve stems and caps 8.00pair).
Oil filter tight and not leaking (safety wired if necessary).
Oil level is good.
No oil leaking from drain plug (safety wired if necessary).
Coolant levels are correct (Filled with distilled water or Water Wetter instead of antifreeze if you can).
Frame sliders are in good condition and tight.

Upper:
Verify the front brake lever retainer nut is present (safety wire).
Brake fluid is clean and level is correct.
Adjust brake and clutch levers for your riding style / position.
Ensure bolts for clip-ons and control levers are tight.
Be sure the entire range of brake lever travel is clear of throttle cables.
Make sure brake lever is not spongy and does not contact the throttle grip, if so, bleed brakes.
Check throttle cable nuts.
Ensure throttle rotates freely without binding and SNAPS back to idle position when released.
Recommended to safety wire grips (they do get loose when wet).
Squeeze and hold the brake lever tight for a minute, then inspect all brake line joints and bolts for fluid leaks.
Windscreen clean.
Engine kill switch is working correctly.
Turn front forks to full stop both directions. Feel for steering stem bearing play.
Ensure that when turned to full stop, there is enough room for your hand or thumbs to pull clear of the grips and the tank or fairings.
Check to ensure that clip-ons are tight.

Rear:
Brake fluid clean and level is correct.
Rear brake pads are not worn to indicators.
Hold rear brake lever and inspect lines and joints for leaks.
Shifter and brake levers adjusted for your boots and riding style.
Brake lever is not bent or obstructed.
Shift lever is not bent or obstructed. Linkage bolts tight.
Shift shaft seal is not leaking (where it enters the engine or transmission)
Front sprocket bolt tight and teeth are not worn or cupped.

Other:
Chain has sufficient free play, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 in (Even with a load on the rear. Have a friend sit on the bike).
Chain is lubed and master link is intact.
Pull on chain at the rear sprocket straight out the back of the bike; You should not be able to see the dish of the sprocket teeth.
Rearsets are adjusted for comfort and riding style.
Rearset bolts are all tight and control mounting bolts are tight.
Exhaust bolts and springs are intact and tight.
Make sure safety pin, keeper, or cotter pin is through rear axle nut (if necessary).
Recommended to drill and safety pin the rear axle bolt.
Check frame sliders to ensure tightly mounted.

When your event is over, clean your bike! Visually inspect everything and keep it clean. Look for leaks and keep an eye on seals and shafts for build up.

Riding Gear:
Helmet (175.00 / 575.00).
Visor clean, not loose and flip mechanism operates smoothly.
No scratches or cracks from previous crashes. When in doubt, get it tested or replaced. If it hit the pavement or is older than five years, buy new.
Chin straps tight not frayed and clips are good.
Glasses (if applicable).
Spine protector (100.00+).
Boots (175.00+).
Toe sliders – replace if needed.
Soles aren't worn through from pegs.
Gloves (75.00+).
No holes and stitching isn't loose.
Jacket / pants or suits (175.00 up to $$$$$ – eBay is your friend here).
No holes and stitching isn't loose.
Armor installed and secured where applicable.
Zippers operate smoothly and properly.
Knee sliders installed and have material on them (30.00 pair).
Foul weather gear.

Spares and Equipment:
Any backup or spare gear listed above.
Make a list with the torque values of items commonly changed.
ie. caliper bolts, axle bolts, pinch bolts etc.
Bodywork is secure (350.00 – 650.00 set, did I mention eBay).
Tools (whatever your tool kit consists of – Harbor Freight).
Tire gauge (buy a good one – 15.00+).
Spare bike parts or crash replacement parts, subframes, clipons, windscreens sliders.
Case covers (optional, but recommended; 65.00 – 300.00).
Spare bolts and nuts (if you replace items on your bike, keep ALL bolts).
Engine oil for top off (8.00qt +).
Brake fluid for top off (5.00 pint +).
Coolant or water/water wetter for top off.
Gas cans and additional fuel (5gal cans 7.50 – 29.99).
Lap timer (150.00+).
Front and rear pit stands or chocks (125.00 – 300.00 pair).
Tire warmers (150.00 – 500.00).
Generator (150.00+++ depending on wattage and model).
Ignition key.
Chain lube (8.00+).
Control cable lube (7.00+).
Cleaners for bike, windscreen and helmet visor (sales at autoparts store).
Clean rags or cloths for cleaning and wiping (buy in bulk).
Waterless hand cleaner or handy rags (buy in bulk).
Extra safety pins or safety wire (pocket change for additional safety).
Air compressor or tire pump (99.00+).
Spare brake pads (If you upgraded for track, keep OEM pads for back-ups).
Spare tires, wheels or rain tires (Once again, eBay is your friend $ - $$$$$$).
Extra chains or sprockets (different gearing for different tracks).
Pen and paper to note suspension changes and other notes.
Duct tape / Zip Ties.
Spare fuses.
Directions to the track and track maps if you like.
Hotel reservations or camping / sleeping gear.
Canopy (99.00 – 250.00).
Folding Chairs (9.99+).
Cooler for lunch and water/power aide supply.

Transportation to the track (if you do not ride your bike)
Trailer: Open or Enclosed ($$ - $$$$$$$$).
Tire pressures for car and trailer.
Brake lights.
Tie-Down Straps (personally I recommend Ancra Straps 26.00+pair).
Wheel Chock (110.00 +).
Ensure all trailer connections are connected and secured.
Make sure everything on your list is loaded!

Yearly Service:
Forks – seals, oil, valves.
Shock – knuckle, seals, valves.
Plugs.
Synchronize Fuel Injectors or Adjust Carbs.
Clean air filter (K&N, BMC 75.00+)
(Make friends with local mechanic or buy/download service manual)
Battery – voltage (battery tender is your friend $35.00+).
Keep tires off concrete for extended periods of time – especially if you reside in areas where there is cold weather and an off-season.

Go out – have a great day! Come back home, and work on budget for next weekend : )
 
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#35 ·
In recent years, sportbike enthusiasts have taken trackday riding to new levels. We all have questions, we all have concerns, we all have budgets, but we all share a common goal - to get our bikes in the arena they are meant for; The track!

A friend of mine created the list below and I have modified it. I feel there is ample information on here for trackday enthusiasts - beginner and advanced alike. By the way, I have seen riders show up wearing their gear, riding their bike, remove a couple of fuses, tape the turn signals, head and taillights, remove the mirrors and hit the track. This is what and all you need to do. This list is here in case you want to take it to the next level and beyond.

In red, you will see commentary on price and other notables. The prices are obviously from a low range to a high range. This is meant to offer the beginner an idea of what expenses the rest of us have paid to maintain our obsession.

If any of you have any other suggestions, please post them and I will update the list accordingly. Otherwise, print this out and keep it in your gear bag as a reminder on what you need or should do prior to and after a trackday. Safe riding :thumbup:

Items to check before a track day

Lower:

Front axle bolt tight.
Fork pinch bolts tight.
Brake caliper bolts tights.
Brake pads not worn to depth indicators.
Brake pistons clean and no leaking fluid.
Fork seals good and no leaks (inspect the legs for bug debris and rock dings, keep clean).
Tires have sufficient tread and in good wear condition (no cracks from winter storage or dry rot 230.00 – 350.00 set).
Wheel weights present and taped in place.
Valve caps present (Use metal valve stems and caps 8.00pair).
Oil filter tight and not leaking (safety wired if necessary).
Oil level is good.
No oil leaking from drain plug (safety wired if necessary).
Coolant levels are correct (Filled with distilled water or Water Wetter instead of antifreeze if you can).
Frame sliders are in good condition and tight.

Upper:
Verify the front brake lever retainer nut is present (safety wire).
Brake fluid is clean and level is correct.
Adjust brake and clutch levers for your riding style / position.
Ensure bolts for clip-ons and control levers are tight.
Be sure the entire range of brake lever travel is clear of throttle cables.
Make sure brake lever is not spongy and does not contact the throttle grip, if so, bleed brakes.
Check throttle cable nuts.
Ensure throttle rotates freely without binding and SNAPS back to idle position when released.
Recommended to safety wire grips (they do get loose when wet).
Squeeze and hold the brake lever tight for a minute, then inspect all brake line joints and bolts for fluid leaks.
Windscreen clean.
Engine kill switch is working correctly.
Turn front forks to full stop both directions. Feel for steering stem bearing play.
Ensure that when turned to full stop, there is enough room for your hand or thumbs to pull clear of the grips and the tank or fairings.
Check to ensure that clip-ons are tight.

Rear:
Brake fluid clean and level is correct.
Rear brake pads are not worn to indicators.
Hold rear brake lever and inspect lines and joints for leaks.
Shifter and brake levers adjusted for your boots and riding style.
Brake lever is not bent or obstructed.
Shift lever is not bent or obstructed. Linkage bolts tight.
Shift shaft seal is not leaking (where it enters the engine or transmission)
Front sprocket bolt tight and teeth are not worn or cupped.

Other:
Chain has sufficient free play, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 in (Even with a load on the rear. Have a friend sit on the bike).
Chain is lubed and master link is intact.
Pull on chain at the rear sprocket straight out the back of the bike; You should not be able to see the dish of the sprocket teeth.
Rearsets are adjusted for comfort and riding style.
Rearset bolts are all tight and control mounting bolts are tight.
Exhaust bolts and springs are intact and tight.
Make sure safety pin, keeper, or cotter pin is through rear axle nut (if necessary).
Recommended to drill and safety pin the rear axle bolt.
Check frame sliders to ensure tightly mounted.

When your event is over, clean your bike! Visually inspect everything and keep it clean. Look for leaks and keep an eye on seals and shafts for build up.

Riding Gear:
Helmet (175.00 / 575.00).
Visor clean, not loose and flip mechanism operates smoothly.
No scratches or cracks from previous crashes. When in doubt, get it tested or replaced. If it hit the pavement or is older than five years, buy new.
Chin straps tight not frayed and clips are good.
Glasses (if applicable).
Spine protector (100.00+).
Boots (175.00+).
Toe sliders – replace if needed.
Soles aren't worn through from pegs.
Gloves (75.00+).
No holes and stitching isn't loose.
Jacket / pants or suits (175.00 up to $$$$$ – eBay is your friend here).
No holes and stitching isn't loose.
Armor installed and secured where applicable.
Zippers operate smoothly and properly.
Knee sliders installed and have material on them (30.00 pair).
Foul weather gear.

Spares and Equipment:
Any backup or spare gear listed above.
Make a list with the torque values of items commonly changed.
ie. caliper bolts, axle bolts, pinch bolts etc.
Bodywork is secure (350.00 – 650.00 set, did I mention eBay).
Tools (whatever your tool kit consists of – Harbor Freight).
Tire gauge (buy a good one – 15.00+).
Spare bike parts or crash replacement parts, subframes, clipons, windscreens sliders.
Case covers (optional, but recommended; 65.00 – 300.00).
Spare bolts and nuts (if you replace items on your bike, keep ALL bolts).
Engine oil for top off (8.00qt +).
Brake fluid for top off (5.00 pint +).
Coolant or water/water wetter for top off.
Gas cans and additional fuel (5gal cans 7.50 – 29.99).
Lap timer (150.00+).
Front and rear pit stands or chocks (125.00 – 300.00 pair).
Tire warmers (150.00 – 500.00).
Generator (150.00+++ depending on wattage and model).
Ignition key.
Chain lube (8.00+).
Control cable lube (7.00+).
Cleaners for bike, windscreen and helmet visor (sales at autoparts store).
Clean rags or cloths for cleaning and wiping (buy in bulk).
Waterless hand cleaner or handy rags (buy in bulk).
Extra safety pins or safety wire (pocket change for additional safety).
Air compressor or tire pump (99.00+).
Spare brake pads (If you upgraded for track, keep OEM pads for back-ups).
Spare tires, wheels or rain tires (Once again, eBay is your friend $ - $$$$$$).
Extra chains or sprockets (different gearing for different tracks).
Pen and paper to note suspension changes and other notes.
Duct tape / Zip Ties.
Spare fuses.
Directions to the track and track maps if you like.
Hotel reservations or camping / sleeping gear.
Canopy (99.00 – 250.00).
Folding Chairs (9.99+).
Cooler for lunch and water/power aide supply.

Transportation to the track (if you do not ride your bike)
Trailer: Open or Enclosed ($$ - $$$$$$$$).
Tire pressures for car and trailer.
Brake lights.
Tie-Down Straps (personally I recommend Ancra Straps 26.00+pair).
Wheel Chock (110.00 +).
Ensure all trailer connections are connected and secured.
Make sure everything on your list is loaded!

Yearly Service:
Forks – seals, oil, valves.
Shock – knuckle, seals, valves.
Plugs.
Synchronize Fuel Injectors or Adjust Carbs.
Clean air filter (K&N, BMC 75.00+)
(Make friends with local mechanic or buy/download service manual)
Battery – voltage (battery tender is your friend $35.00+).
Keep tires off concrete for extended periods of time – especially if you reside in areas where there is cold weather and an off-season.

Go out – have a great day! Come back home, and work on budget for next weekend : )[/QUOTE

EXCELLENT post
 
#42 ·
yes that is awesome, just in case,Motoyard is having an additional event in April,sat 4/9 at Big Willow is a trackday for motorcycles,BBQ that evening! Dscounts are available until 4/1, check it out. On sun 4/10 they are hosting a trackday for cars,,hum can i slide 4 tires now or what??
 
#46 ·
My problem when I started riding TDs was discovering all my options on who to ride with. I live in the S.E. so some of this applies to us:


You can go to the calendar of the track you are interested in and view which organization is hosting an event and then go to their website to ask specific questions. Another good first step would be taking a class.

My advice would be to find a local forum member that is an instructor and hook up with him in the Novice/Beginner group.

Good info here from someone on WERA:
http://www.foreven.com/trackdod/NoviceGuide/


Here is a map of the tracks (U.S.)
http://www.zeemaps.com/emap.jsp?group=6265&legend=1&list=1&x=-82.0898&y=35.0300&z=12


Most people will say that Little Tally is a great first track
(46 Pilgrim Lane, Munford, Alabama 36268.)
http://www.tgprace.com/TGPR-dates.htm

I like Barber Motorsports Park
(Leeds Exit off I-20 --6040 Barber Motorsports Parkway
Birmingham, AL 35094)
http://barbermotorsports.com/vintage/index.php?adnet=

Jennings GP
(JenningsGP, 4960 NW CR152 Jennings FL, 32053)
http://www.jenningsgp.com/events.htm

Road Atlanta
(5300 Winder Highway, Braselton, Georgia 30517):
http://www.roadatlanta.com/events.lasso

Atlanta Motorsports Park (when it opens)
(20 Duck Thurmond Road, Dawsonville, GA 30534):
http://www.atlantamotorsportspark.net/updates.shtml
 
#51 ·
05 gsxr 1000 track bike only some of the parts are already safety wired yosh exhaust race tires race body work vortex clip ons 1477 miles gold chain brembo master cylinder with adjust on left bar end k and n air filter 3000. {BILL OF SALE ONLY}dmv wants lights on bike to get title im not doing that this is strict track bike only if you want to convert to street thats on you. the light switch and turn signal switch has been taken off. 3000 obo no low balling call josh 925 565 6290 bike is in south sac
 
#54 ·
alot of good things in here for a fun track day...cant remember if it was mentioned but spare tires!!!! I know from experience lol...in june we did a track day at Barber...we always take used spare tires just in case. he had power cups on his Ducati, and I had super corsa sc on my gsxr 750, this was the second track day on the corsa's but were still in good shape..Needless to say after lunch the rear started sliding, real greasy..I cudnt even ride hard...after the 5th session i had to put the spare Dunlap GPA 190/55 on there, every track day we learn something, be it how to organize better, new riding techniques, lines...what we need to bring etc....the more prepared the more fun you will hav...:thumbup:
 
#55 ·
Great list. I know it's an old post, but I'll add one more thing to check on '06/'07 gsxr 600/750 (may be applicable to other models, I don't know): There is a circlip that holds the shift lever on. Make sure it's in place and properly seated. Doesn't hurt to swap it with a new one every so often.
 
#56 ·
:shifty



FYI: A lot of [wannabe] mechanics don't know how to properly remove or install a retaining (snap) ring. They tend to spread the ring too far apart during removal/installation, causing the fastener to egg shape and no longer fit securely. An often overlooked installation detail is which side goes which direction. Most smaller ones are a stamped part and the sharp shoulder should always face out away from the moving assembly or loaded side.

Below is an example of 2 types of retaining rings, internal (R) and external (L).
 

Attachments

#58 ·
While warmers aren't necessary, it's a great way to overcome cold days or when you just want to go fast from the start (so you can get in front of the squids)!

Good warmers like our MOTO-D PRO-Series which heat to 175-185' and get the rim hotactually preserve the tire and pay for themselves.

 
#61 ·
great stuff on this thread! reading through it I just remember I need spare handlebar grips... and oil filter...

Prepped the bike for Spanish track weekend over past 2 days; will be using my everyday 600 K1- yesterday after putting standard side fairings on (too knew to it all so have standard fairings which are bashed up anyway- will need to get track fairings as they have fewer bolts) was all proud of myself for having finished with 1.5 days to spare before having to ship the bike over from Uk to Spain, then I realized.... never did change the oil or the oil filter :0001136745-facepalm

guess will need to have another 25 minutes argument with fairing bolts tonight then.... :Laughing:
 
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