LETS TALK: TRAILER maintenance, setup, restraints, etc - Page 2 - GSXR.com
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post #41 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-16-2012, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by mladinracer View Post
Very nice.
That does look great and solid. Very nice!

There is one thing though. Dragging the mesh ramp through the air at freeway speeds will likely cost you a few miles per gallon.
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post #42 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-16-2012, 09:13 AM Thread Starter
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That does look great and solid. Very nice!

There is one thing though. Dragging the mesh ramp through the air at freeway speeds will likely cost you a few miles per gallon.
(not trying to sound like a jerk, just taking a stab at the tree-huggers lol)

IF I WAS CONCERNED WITH MPG'S THE FEW TIMES A YEAR I TOW MY TRACK-BIKE, I WOULD HAVE BOUGHT A PRIUS AND TOWED A DIFFERENT KIND OF BIKE.

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post #43 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-16-2012, 11:22 AM
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post #44 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-16-2012, 01:43 PM
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If you don't care about money, then why not get a nice big diesel hauler and an enclosed trailer. Heck, why not a Toy Hauler with a lift for the bike and sleeping quarters? That's awesome!

But we're talking about a little trailer behind a car here, aren't we?
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post #45 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-16-2012, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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If you don't care about money, then why not get a nice big diesel hauler and an enclosed trailer. Heck, why not a Toy Hauler with a lift for the bike and sleeping quarters? That's awesome!

But we're talking about a little trailer behind a car here, aren't we?
huge difference between $10 round trip in wasted mpg's and $50,000 toy hauler

this is about as much of a 'toy-hauler' as i could afford, right now

AND DONT BUST MY BALLS ABOUT MY MINI TOY HAULER 'S MPG's!! LOLOLOL

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post #46 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-16-2012, 03:01 PM
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huge difference between $10 round trip in wasted mpg's and $50,000 toy hauler

this is about as much of a 'toy-hauler' as i could afford, right now

AND DONT BUST MY BALLS ABOUT MY MINI TOY HAULER 'S MPG's!! LOLOLOL
Well, uh, that's awesome too!!
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post #47 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-16-2012, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by ImStricken View Post
huge difference between $10 round trip in wasted mpg's and $50,000 toy hauler

this is about as much of a 'toy-hauler' as i could afford, right now

AND DONT BUST MY BALLS ABOUT MY MINI TOY HAULER 'S MPG's!! LOLOLOL
That is firck'in sweet! Nice find! Serious chick magnet you got there!

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post #48 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-16-2012, 05:35 PM
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someone posted something similar recently on another local forum I'm on so here's to copy n paste.

This was mine I sold it for the one below it.



This is my new one It has a ramp door to the back. It's nice to drive up but kinda in the way when set up in the paddock. I have to figure storage for tools and "track camp" stuff The wheel chaulk I got from Harbor Freight for 60 bucks and E-track for 20 bucks. It works and hauls easy. The one thing I wish I would of thought about when buying one is that you may end up owning two track bikes or taking a friends....something to consider.





What size is this? I assumed it was a 5X8? How much does it weigh?
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post #49 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-16-2012, 10:11 PM
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That does look great and solid. Very nice!

There is one thing though. Dragging the mesh ramp through the air at freeway speeds will likely cost you a few miles per gallon.
Its like buying a vette and not spending an extra 1k on the good wheels. If you already pulling a trailer with an extra 500lbs on it is the mesh grate ramp breaking the bank?

MPGs be damned, I sold my truck this year so if I dont find something else, next season Im taking my 10mpg lifted Jeep with trailer to the track!



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post #50 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-17-2012, 07:37 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted byImStricken: Anyone install any kind of track-lighting into their trailers? im thinking of placing small LED modules and wiring it to a switch which will be connected to an old bike battery that will be descreatly placed on the trailer.
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I haven't done that no...but this month when i move into my new place with the garage you gave me something to do.
went into the garage last night to add a few more layers of polyurethane to the wood plank for the pit-bull mount and while that was drying i got cracking on making a battery box.
couple folds, and 4 pop rivets and i made a box! lol
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post #51 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-17-2012, 09:09 AM
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went into the garage last night to add a few more layers of polyurethane to the wood plank for the pit-bull mount and while that was drying i got cracking on making a battery box.
couple folds, and 4 pop rivets and i made a box! lol
That's very awesome, for me tho I would've reversed it so the plate showed out just for coolness. Lol.

More then likely won't use another battery I'll just tap into the parking lights



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post #52 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-17-2012, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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That's very awesome, for me tho I would've reversed it so the plate showed out just for coolness. Lol.
More then likely won't use another battery I'll just tap into the parking lights
i was thinking & thinking... but idk if i want white light emanating from the open trailer at all times during the dark 2 hour drive back home.

With the old bike battery, what i was thinking is to hook up a cigarette lighter port to a small bracket, along with a switch for the white lights in the trailer bed.
this way i can plug in my master flow air compressor!
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post #53 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-17-2012, 10:58 AM
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Best thing to do there is drill it out and use a galvanized bolt with two flat washers, a locking washer, and nylon lock nut. To hold the stands on
+1
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http://www.harborfreight.com/motorcy...ock-96349.html

5x8 trailer. ot just a few inches to spare.
i use the canyon dancers as well and this wheel chock from harborfreight.com been a time or two where it has saved my bike from falling over-hitting the right bumps and the straps come loose. for some reason. i am able to fit 2 bikes on if need be but usually only haul mine.

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post #54 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-17-2012, 11:51 AM
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I don't care how many lights you have on the trailer if someone is going to hit you they will hit you no matter what. I had 2 bikes on my open trailer last year in Florida doing 20 mph and of course I got hit in slow moving traffic.
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post #55 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-17-2012, 12:28 PM Thread Starter
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I don't care how many lights you have on the trailer if someone is going to hit you they will hit you no matter what. I had 2 bikes on my open trailer last year in Florida doing 20 mph and of course I got hit in slow moving traffic.
ITS NOT TO BE SEEN. its for ME to see in my trailer at night. kinda like a truck bed light.
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post #56 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-17-2012, 01:03 PM
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What size is this? I assumed it was a 5X8? How much does it weigh?
yea its a 5x8 v nose. dunno how much.I can lift it with my hands and maneuver it with ease when empty. I'll get the weight when I get home. it should be on the ID plate.

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post #57 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-17-2012, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by ImStricken View Post
went into the garage last night to add a few more layers of polyurethane to the wood plank for the pit-bull mount and while that was drying i got cracking on making a battery box.
couple folds, and 4 pop rivets and i made a box! lol
I like it!

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post #58 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-17-2012, 04:40 PM
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yea its a 5x8 v nose. dunno how much.I can lift it with my hands and maneuver it with ease when empty. I'll get the weight when I get home. it should be on the ID plate.
That trailer should weigh around 850 lbs. and have about 85lbs. of tongue weight at rest.


As you can probably tell by my name, I know a great deal about trailers. I have a trailer business in OKC that myself and my father opened about 10 years ago. If anyone ever needs any advice, pointers, how-to's, or a good lead on where to buy cheap parts in your area, just let me know. I learn so much from these forums, and like to give back when I can.


The main thing to keep in good shape on your trailer is your bearings! Most people overlook this, and it can cost you. If your bearing completely fails ("burns up") you can, and usually will, lose the entire wheel/tire/hub assembly and the trailer will be draggin on the end of the axle and the u-bolts. If you're a DIY person, it's really easy to do, and if not it's fairly inexpensive to have done at a reputable shop - usually around $25-30/wheel.

If you want to check your bearings the easy way, jack up your trailer (safely) and spin the wheel. It should be silent. If you hear a roar, or growl you are about to have problems. Second thing to check is the bearing lash...grab the tire at 6 and 12 o clock. Rock the tire back and forth from top to bottom. There should be just enough play that you can Barely feel it moving - about 1/16". If there isn't enough slack in the bearings, when they heat up and expand, they have nowhere to expand to and will eat themselves up so to speak. If there is too much play, the bearings most likely need to be repacked or replaced if they have any damage/overheating.

I also think everyone should go to LED lights - they are cheap now, last forever, and are brighter/safer than incandecent.

Hope this helps and, again, if anyone needs any questions answered, please feel free to ask!
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post #59 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-17-2012, 06:33 PM
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Good info and advice. That got me wondering what my tongue weight is? When I built my trailer, I moved the wheel chock up and back and got it to a place that tows well. I'll have to check that sometime with the bike loaded to find out what I ended up with.
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post #60 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-17-2012, 10:47 PM
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Those of using canyon dancer straps be careful for a few reasons. On gs rs the strap on the older versions(with out the cups) lays right on the horn button and after times usually breaks it. Also if you use them you'd be silly to not use a wheel chock.



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post #61 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-18-2012, 12:13 PM
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That trailer should weigh around 850 lbs. and have about 85lbs. of tongue weight at rest.


As you can probably tell by my name, I know a great deal about trailers. I have a trailer business in OKC that myself and my father opened about 10 years ago. If anyone ever needs any advice, pointers, how-to's, or a good lead on where to buy cheap parts in your area, just let me know. I learn so much from these forums, and like to give back when I can.


The main thing to keep in good shape on your trailer is your bearings! Most people overlook this, and it can cost you. If your bearing completely fails ("burns up") you can, and usually will, lose the entire wheel/tire/hub assembly and the trailer will be draggin on the end of the axle and the u-bolts. If you're a DIY person, it's really easy to do, and if not it's fairly inexpensive to have done at a reputable shop - usually around $25-30/wheel.

If you want to check your bearings the easy way, jack up your trailer (safely) and spin the wheel. It should be silent. If you hear a roar, or growl you are about to have problems. Second thing to check is the bearing lash...grab the tire at 6 and 12 o clock. Rock the tire back and forth from top to bottom. There should be just enough play that you can Barely feel it moving - about 1/16". If there isn't enough slack in the bearings, when they heat up and expand, they have nowhere to expand to and will eat themselves up so to speak. If there is too much play, the bearings most likely need to be repacked or replaced if they have any damage/overheating.

I also think everyone should go to LED lights - they are cheap now, last forever, and are brighter/safer than incandecent.

Hope this helps and, again, if anyone needs any questions answered, please feel free to ask!
I forgot to check last night. but 85lbs feels about right when I lift it. yea bearings are a must check. I use Bearing Buddy on all my trailers.

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post #62 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 09:13 AM
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I was going to PM trailerpro and ask him so I didnt sound like a complete noob but I figured since some one else may learn from it as well Ill ask in here.

One trip to VIR last year, I was averaging about 85mph down there on the highway. My buddy starting picking on me saying my "little trailer wheels" were going to explode. Told me the bearings couldnt take that speed. If this is true(and I do believe 85 exceeds the speed recommended for my trailer, I dont have a manual tho) what do I upgrade so I dont have to worry about that? Bearings? Entire axel? Wheel/tire combo?



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post #63 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 09:23 AM Thread Starter
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I was going to PM trailerpro and ask him so I didnt sound like a complete noob but I figured since some one else may learn from it as well Ill ask in here.

One trip to VIR last year, I was averaging about 85mph down there on the highway. My buddy starting picking on me saying my "little trailer wheels" were going to explode. Told me the bearings couldnt take that speed. If this is true(and I do believe 85 exceeds the speed recommended for my trailer, I dont have a manual tho) what do I upgrade so I dont have to worry about that? Bearings? Entire axel? Wheel/tire combo?
Since the linear velocity is the same for both tires (45 mph), then rotational speed is inversely proportional to radius, or as radius gets smaller, the tire spins faster (and creates more heat).
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post #64 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 09:27 AM
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Since the linear velocity is the same for both tires (45 mph), then rotational speed is inversely proportional to radius, or as radius gets smaller, the tire spins faster (and creates more heat).
So going with a little larger tire cuts down on a little heat. But is that the "right" way to do it, or is an upgrade of bearings or something else to better handle the heat?

Im assuming the axle on trailer can handle a little bigger of a tire since they are just coasting, not like in my Jeep.



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post #65 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 09:32 AM
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go with 15 inch radials and use high heat grease.

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post #66 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 09:32 AM Thread Starter
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So going with a little larger tire cuts down on a little heat. But is that the "right" way to do it, or is an upgrade of bearings or something else to better handle the heat?

Im assuming the axle on trailer can handle a little bigger of a tire since they are just coasting, not like in my Jeep.
you cant upgrade the bearing unless you change the spindle/hub to the same size.
if you upgrade those to larger ones yes, they will rotate less = causing less heat build-up.

the best bet is simple: no more than 65mph, with plenty breaking room, and if the roads are wet = drop it down to 55mph. your car will stop quickly on wet roads, but your trailer will loose grip and the momentum will cause the now slippery tires to jack-knife.

with bearings spinning faster due to wheel size, than the car's wheels- they build up heat faster. that heat is then transferred right to the hub, which transfers it to the rims. the rims heat up the air inside, and transfer it to the rubber.
-but dont forget the rubber is building heat of it own!

Last edited by ImStricken; 01-19-2012 at 09:34 AM.
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post #67 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 09:34 AM
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If the smaller trailer tire has to make two revolutions to equal the distance your truck tire turns in one it is spinning twice as fast as the tire on your vehicle. It would be like if you were doing 170 MPH in your truck. That is why they get hot and fail so quickly.

I'm not touching the design or ability of the bearings to handle that, Trailer Pro may advise.

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post #68 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 09:34 AM
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Damn it, I thought my trailer was the easiest thing I owned. This is BS Im selling it.



lol, jk.



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post #69 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 09:40 AM Thread Starter
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Damn it, I thought my trailer was the easiest thing I owned.
trailers are simple to the eyes.... but its actually pretty complex in the gear ratio to the towing vehicles wheels. its almost a 2:1/3:1 gear ratio

look how many times the little gear hits 12o'clock for every 1 time the big gear hit 12
so if the car is the big wheel, and its doing 60mph = the trailer wheels are doing 120/180mph in equivalence.
now you see why trailer bearings & grease need constant attention, and to be changed more often?

Last edited by ImStricken; 01-19-2012 at 09:43 AM.
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post #70 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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and dont forget: tire width increases with its rotation.
the faster a tire has to rotate = the more stress is placed on the rubber(binding) to remain in tact and not shred apart.

so if your doing 60mph = your car tires can handle that.
but the little trailer tires are doing 120mph. do you want to trust those little things to be doing the equivalence of 120? doubt it.
i highly doubt they can perform like H rated(130 mph) tires?

i dont trust the material the rubber is made form & its dry rotting stage from being used only a few times per year, nor the bearings over-heating.
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post #71 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 10:14 AM
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...so if the car is the big wheel, and its doing 60mph = the trailer wheels are doing 120/180mph in equivalence.
+1 To put it into perspective your bike is running a 17" rim similar to the tow vehicle...this means on the highway the trailer wheels are being spun the same rpm our bike wheels do during a top speed run. The only difference is the trailer does it for a couple hours at a time non stop.

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post #72 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 10:29 AM
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I was going to PM trailerpro and ask him so I didnt sound like a complete noob but I figured since some one else may learn from it as well Ill ask in here.

One trip to VIR last year, I was averaging about 85mph down there on the highway. My buddy starting picking on me saying my "little trailer wheels" were going to explode. Told me the bearings couldnt take that speed. If this is true(and I do believe 85 exceeds the speed recommended for my trailer, I dont have a manual tho) what do I upgrade so I dont have to worry about that? Bearings? Entire axel? Wheel/tire combo?
For the bearings, it depends on what axle is under it, and where it was made. Some of the smaller trailers you can get from Harbor Freight have little chinese bearings/hubs that are only rated at 45mph. Bearings are too small (and cheap material) and will generally fail much faster than a standard 2k or 3.5k axle will. After about 20-30 miles on the highway, pull over and check to see how hot your hubs are getting. If you can't put your hand on the hub (this is for an idler with no brakes, as brakes will get Really hot when being used) it's running too hot.

As others have stated, a larger tire will help cut down on the heat of the tires and the bearings. Just make sure if you upgrade the tires you have enough room under the fender. It will need about 3" of bump clearance between the top of the tire and the bottom of the fender.

I probably shouldn't, but I drag my little boat trailer about the same speed and it had 8" T&W on it until this past spring and I upgraded to 12" and moved my fenders. Really only reason I did this is because I needed new tires anyway, and for me (as an OEM) the cost was about the same for either of them so I went bigger.
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post #73 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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this is interesting:

The owner could not be contacted for comment. Local Highway department noted; towing vehicle was
also lost in the fire. Wheel bearing overheating is the suspected cause.

http://www.co-engineering.net/Burnt_Boat.html
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post #74 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 10:52 AM
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I have had my trailer about a year and other then the modds I did to make it fit my bike/pit bull and redoing the lighting I have done NOTHING to it. Next week Im moving into a new place with a Garage that will house my bikes and trailer. First thing Im doing the week after on my vacation is trailer PM.


Ill start by following the write up given by Imstricken for my bearings and races. I think Im going to hold off on the new bigger tires till I need them and Ill just have to control my skinny pedal.

I was at lowes today for some stuff and was able to get a manual for my trailer, its made by the Cary-on trailer corp but I havent had a chance to dig through it and see who made the axle or anything.



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post #75 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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I was at lowes today for some stuff and was able to get a manual for my trailer, its made by the Cary-on trailer corp
http://www.carry-ontrailer.com/docs/...s/2KManual.pdf
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post #76 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 11:03 AM
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Location: NEW YORK STATE ORANGE COUNTY
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OK I am guilty of not changing or repacking my bearings on my trailer since I got it in 2009. I have used it so much that I wore out the original tires. I have new tires on there now. I have the 205 75/14 inch radials. The old ones wore on the insides and I was told this was normal on trailers. I shopped around when I brought my trailer new. I was told that my 5X8 enclosed weighs 700 lbs. It is made of alum. One of the reason why I brought this trailer. The payload says 1500 lbs. Even with 2 bikes and all my gear I am probably near 1000lbs. I never exceed the payload rate. Here is a pic of my tire and hub. I will attemp to change/repack the bearings myself. I will do that test to see if they are making any noise. I wish I lived closer to IMSTRICKEN, I would invite him over to supervise with a few brewskis!!!
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post #77 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 11:16 AM
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You actually have EZ-Lube axles on there. It's a great idea to tear them down to check them since it's been so long, but after that, you can repack your bearings with a grease gun via the zerk on the end of your spindle. I would do this about every 6 months/6k miles. When you are adding grease, it will go through the spindle, then T out behind your inner bearing. As you add grease, it pushes it from the back side of the hub though your inner then outer bearing, and will come out around the spindle nut. First time you do it will take about 1/3 tube of grease per hub, as it will need to fill up the center of the hub before coming out around the spindle nut. If you use an air gun, keep the pressure down, as it can blow through the seal and come out the back side instead of going back through the hub where it's supposed to.

One more thing, I noticed you have a wheel weight from balancing the tires...no need to. There's not a trailer hub in the world that's balanced that I'm aware of. Most tire shops will just hammer a weight on the rim if they know it's going on a trailer anyways. Yes, I've seen it done in several shops.
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post #78 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFM GSXR 750 View Post
I wish I lived closer to IMSTRICKEN, I would invite him over to supervise with a few brewskis!!!
i promise you its, not hard at all. you will be amazed at how simple it all is. follow the write-up i did, and you will succeed.

just make sure to shove as much of the grease INTO the bearing before placing into the race/hub. just smothering the bearing is not enough.
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post #79 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 11:18 AM
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Here's a diagram of the EZ-Lube system:

http://dexteraxle.com/i/u/6149609/f/...-Lube_7-11.pdf

If you don't think you got enough grease into the bearing cavity, just use the grease zerk to fill up the hubs/bearings after you are finished I would still put grease on the races/bearings before assembling though.
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post #80 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Trailerpro View Post
You actually have EZ-Lube axles. you can repack your bearings with a grease gun via the zerk on the end of your spindle.
let me make it easier for you with this image

YOUR GOING TO HEAR POPPING AND FARTING, THATS JUST THE GREASE PUSHING OUT AIR POCKETS.
WHEN YOUR DONE, CHECK BEHIND TO MAKE SURE THE SEAL IS STILL SITTING RIGHT.

Last edited by ImStricken; 01-19-2012 at 11:27 AM.
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