LETS TALK: TRAILER maintenance, setup, restraints, etc - Page 3 - GSXR.com
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post #81 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-20-2012, 07:58 AM Thread Starter
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this is the update so far on my 4x7 trailer:
3/4 plywood that i stained black, and coated with many layers of polyurethane on all edges/sides. next will be the pit-bull restraint base plates

im thinking to add some nice graphics to the glossy piece of wood, and then adding another layer of clear on top to make a sick custom look. maybe a big hippo like my signature lol



i also added 4 tie-down loops with crush washers:

Last edited by ImStricken; 01-20-2012 at 08:00 AM.
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post #82 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-20-2012, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by ImStricken View Post
this is the update so far on my 4x7 trailer:
3/4 plywood that i stained black, and coated with many layers of polyurethane on all edges/sides. next will be the pit-bull restraint base plates

im thinking to add some nice graphics to the glossy piece of wood, and then adding another layer of clear on top to make a sick custom look. maybe a big hippo like my signature lol



i also added 4 tie-down loops with crush washers:

I hope Im wrong but...if you plan on doing the usual mount for the pit bull you more then likely have it back too far(if you look at my trailer pics earlier.

If your using the pit bull with the arms extending back away from the bike your tire will be the tail gate. Youll need to bring the wood u some. I did the same damn thing when setting mine up. Im a jack ass and did all my measurements gate down. If your setting up arms to the inside youll be fine, but I dont like it that way, felt less sturdy.



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post #83 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-21-2012, 08:37 AM Thread Starter
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I hope Im wrong but...if you plan on doing the usual mount for the pit bull you more then likely have it back too far
dont forget i only have a 4x7. if you look at the pic i have up were the bike is on the trailer, you can see the pitbull thing that pins onto the swing arm lays down on the last portion of the trailer. if i had the common 5x8, then you would be correct
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post #84 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-22-2012, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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i discovered this stuff in HOME DEPOT for pretty cheap, and works well to refresh your trailer frame-work.

Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch 32 oz. Gloss BLACK

worked very well! i applied it right out of the can with a foam brush. it ends up thinning out well, and the brush strokes blend in, and the paint dries amazingly fast! 20min drying time. i applied it to everything metal and my trailer looks brand spanking new!

from the home depot website:

Can be applied to a variety of surfaces including wood, wicker, metal, plaster, masonry and unglazed ceramic
Latex-based paint dries in as little as 30 minutes for your convenience.
Resists chipping and fading for durability
Cleans up easily with soap and water


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post #85 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-23-2012, 09:46 AM Thread Starter
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i also added a rock/dust shield in the front of the open trailer
i cut out doggy-bone style openings in the wood to allow for straps.
sanded, stained, and clear coated.

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post #86 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-23-2012, 09:49 AM
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Your trailer is becoming quite the beast.



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post #87 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-23-2012, 09:57 AM
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+1...I have trailer envy issues now.

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post #88 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-23-2012, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
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aw, thanks guys. i cant wait to take some high quality detailed pics of it in the sun after its paint job

i cant wait to put on some graphics
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post #89 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-24-2012, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by ImStricken View Post
i discovered this stuff in HOME DEPOT for pretty cheap, and works well to refresh your trailer frame-work.

Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch 32 oz. Gloss BLACK

worked very well! i applied it right out of the can with a foam brush. it ends up thinning out well, and the brush strokes blend in, and the paint dries amazingly fast! 20min drying time. i applied it to everything metal and my trailer looks brand spanking new!

from the home depot website:

Can be applied to a variety of surfaces including wood, wicker, metal, plaster, masonry and unglazed ceramic
Latex-based paint dries in as little as 30 minutes for your convenience.
Resists chipping and fading for durability
Cleans up easily with soap and water


I need this bad, part of my metal frame has ugly rust spots from being outside. I will do this as soon as I can and let it sit in my garage before we get SNOW again. I felt so bad last winter, my poor trailer was covered with snow for weeks at a time. This winter has been the opposite!!! I have been wanting to paint the inside for the longest. I have seen some crazy hooked up trailers at the track. Talk about trailer envy, LOL.
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post #90 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-24-2012, 09:38 AM Thread Starter
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I need this bad, part of my metal frame has ugly rust spots from being outside. I will do this as soon as I can and let it sit in my garage before we get SNOW again.
i didn't sand or anything, i just cleaned it down, and sponge-brushed on this paint. it levels out nicely and comes out really nice and semi-glossy. it ended up blending in with the original paint so well, I CANT TELL THE DIFFERENCE unless i take a really-really close look at it.

im gonna wait till this crappy weather is over(mid-Feb), and take the trailer to a self-washing spot and power wash it, bring it home and add another layer or two of paint. i also will take a really soft & puffy foam roller and roll on the paint onto the mesh floor.
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post #91 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-24-2012, 10:14 AM
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great job bout all you need now is a mounted spare tire, and a tongue tool box for your grease gun, chocks, etc.

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post #92 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-24-2012, 10:22 AM Thread Starter
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great job bout all you need now is a mounted spare tire, and a tongue tool box for your grease gun, chocks, etc.
i thought about mounting the spare on the trailer, but i dont think i will since its going to be stored outside. i dont want any more attention to it as it is.
i live in a really safe, quiet dead-end neighborhood. my next door neighbor is a local police Sergeant, and i have 7+yrs in the similar field, but you still never know. I have 2 coupler locks, the wheels chained around the axle: this my only defense, aside from being placed descretly on the side of the house between my house & SGT's house.
but leaving a spare tire to be simply unbolted is not in my best interest. so when i use the trailer i will just put the spare into my vehicle.

Last edited by ImStricken; 01-24-2012 at 10:25 AM.
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post #93 of 136 (permalink) Old 01-24-2012, 10:29 AM Thread Starter
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i was thinking of using camouflage netting LOL
just lay the ramp down into the trailer, and drape it with this here net:

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post #94 of 136 (permalink) Old 03-06-2012, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
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UPDATE on the 4x7 carry-on trailer. I added the Pit-Bull trailer restraint system for 1 of the bikes. It gives me room to install another one, since each plate is 2feet wide - and the whole trailer is just a hair over 4feet.





i also added grip-tape i got at Lowes for all the flat surfaces.
i figured its a simple way to stay safe while in track boots or while loading
and unloading the heavy bike.

Last edited by ImStricken; 03-06-2012 at 10:09 PM.
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post #95 of 136 (permalink) Old 03-06-2012, 10:17 PM
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well done, looks fantastic
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post #96 of 136 (permalink) Old 03-06-2012, 10:20 PM Thread Starter
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well done, looks fantastic
thank you amigo!
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post #97 of 136 (permalink) Old 03-07-2012, 07:21 AM Thread Starter
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PS:
GUYS FORGET ABOUT THIS PAINT. PIECE OF CRAP IS FLAKING ALL OVER THE PLACE
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post #98 of 136 (permalink) Old 03-07-2012, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by ImStricken View Post
PS:
GUYS FORGET ABOUT THIS PAINT. PIECE OF CRAP IS FLAKING ALL OVER THE PLACE
It's latex AND you didn't prep the surface before working. Not calling you out, but what else did you expect?

Prep work is essential with any paint or it won't work, end of story.
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post #99 of 136 (permalink) Old 03-07-2012, 07:52 AM Thread Starter
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It's latex AND you didn't prep the surface before working. Not calling you out, but what else did you expect?

Prep work is essential with any paint or it won't work, end of story.
your right, no real prep.
but as a kid i spray painted some signs and till this day, its still there, and survived. this crap didnt survive even 2 months not being touched. LOL
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post #100 of 136 (permalink) Old 03-07-2012, 08:16 AM
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your right, no real prep.
but as a kid i spray painted some signs and till this day, its still there, and survived. this crap didnt survive even 2 months not being touched. LOL
I'm tracking ya. But again spray paint and brush on, two different things. Honestly, I'd take a corded drill (higher RPM and no battery drain to fuss with) with a steel brush wheel to the whole thing and get rid of that paint. That will clean it off and scuff the metal for prep. I'd recommend getting a truck bedliner brush in kit from AutoZone and the like, since that crap's nearly bulletproof, but high heat rustoleum would be my very close second choice.
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post #101 of 136 (permalink) Old 03-07-2012, 08:44 AM Thread Starter
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I'm tracking ya. But again spray paint and brush on, two different things. Honestly, I'd take a corded drill (higher RPM and no battery drain to fuss with) with a steel brush wheel to the whole thing and get rid of that paint. That will clean it off and scuff the metal for prep. I'd recommend getting a truck bedliner brush in kit from AutoZone and the like, since that crap's nearly bulletproof, but high heat rustoleum would be my very close second choice.
we think alike. that bedliner stuff, is something i was thinking about. i think it would looks nice!
and worst case, for a cheap route, i was also thinking like engine high heat paint.
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post #102 of 136 (permalink) Old 03-07-2012, 08:52 AM Thread Starter
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im doing it bro lol

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post #103 of 136 (permalink) Old 03-07-2012, 09:29 AM
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You'll need the drill, the bristled head (Iwould recommend two since they're likely to gum up), a solid gallon maybe two of acetone, a plastic dropcloth of some kind, and two gallon cans of that stuff. I would use a heavy nap roller from home depot rather than the foam ones they give you. This will pull the texture up higher than the foam and allow for more traction when standing on a misty trailer unhooking your bike.

One coat won't be enough, it will be thin where the roller raises the texture, and may be thin enough for moisture to be an issue. Two coats are better, three is the shicken.

1) Strip the old paint off as much as possible with the drill and bristled heads. This is by far the hardest and longest step.
2) Brush the dust and loose dirt off with a broom
3) Use an old paintbrush and liberally apply the acetone. There is no such thing as too much, until there's a puddle under the trailer. Do this in the garage with a plastic tarp under the trailer to keep it from ruining anything it may touch (dropcloths are cool, too.)Take care for ventilation or you'll be in bad shape.
4) Apply the first coat of cover in the garage to prevent moisture from getting at it in the event of rain. Wait a little longer than the recommended cure times to ensure it's down hard.
5) Use air compressor or broom to remove any loose dirt that accumulated since the coat.
6) Apply next coat. Repeat to desired thickness.

Doing that, in my experience, was just as effective for my pickup as the spray in stuff costing way more. Plus you get to learn a new skill.

Good luck.
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post #104 of 136 (permalink) Old 03-07-2012, 09:57 AM
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Nice job it came out real nice!

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post #105 of 136 (permalink) Old 03-07-2012, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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Trailer and bike stock


Trailer modded, bike, pit bull.






hey srad, you know those latches/clamps on the pit-bull restraint system - DO YOUR JINGLE, OR ARE THEY SNUG?
mine jingles a little so i tightened up the mounting bolts on the plate and now its almost no play9but takes a hammer tap or two to get the latches in lol.
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post #106 of 136 (permalink) Old 03-28-2012, 02:54 PM
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These are before I got the GSXR trackbike but this is my setup....





I usually haul a sport bike and one scooter for pit duty on the Kendon 2 rail. I have used many tie down methods but CycleCynch is by far the very very best. It does not pull your grips in and mess them up. Holds the bike strong and the car doesn't even know anything is back there.
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post #107 of 136 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 09:23 AM Thread Starter
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SEE YOU FOCKERS THIS WEEKEND! im prepped and ready to go!!!

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post #108 of 136 (permalink) Old 04-05-2016, 09:43 AM
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I know this is an old thread

I just recently purchased two TRS systems. I want to install them on my open 5x8 mesh bottom trailler. I have 3 plates I want to install. One in the middle for one bike setup, and two on the outsides for two bike setup.

The issue it seems I will run into, the plate wholes don't line up the the holes in the mesh trailer floor. I wanted to use a 3/4" sheet of plywood to mount the plates to. But what steps can I take to get the holes to line up without cutting up the trailer floor?

Any help from those with mesh bottom trailers would be great.
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post #109 of 136 (permalink) Old 04-07-2016, 11:23 AM
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I got a smoking deal on a trailer from Lowes when my wife worked there...Problem was it was a 4x6, which isnt even big enough for one bike from front to back. So I made a project of it. My welder friend and I extended it 18 inches in the front center and angled it out. From there I also put plywood down for my pit pull system. Instead of drilling into the trailer its self, I measured and properly spaced the holes to in between the mesh. I then used large bolts(dont remember the size) and washers on both sides to sandwich the plywood. Its MORE then stable enough. I have four bolts down the side of the main side of the trailer, 3 in each side of the point and two along the 4 ft sides. Man I hope that made sense.

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SRAD600, or anybody else with a mesh trailer.

Did you guys have to cut the mesh in order to bolt down the plates to the trailer? I have a 5x8 trailer and looking to add treated plywood, and 3 pitbull plates. One for single bike use. And two for two bikes. So far the plates don't line up with the holes in the mesh. It seems I'm going have to cut the mesh in order for the bolt holes to line up. Seems to be what everyone recommends, just seeing if there's a different option for that type of trailer?
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post #110 of 136 (permalink) Old 04-07-2016, 12:55 PM
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There was someone else in here that did what you're asking. He's no longer with the forum but I'm sure it's still in here, buried.

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post #111 of 136 (permalink) Old 04-07-2016, 02:37 PM
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My trailer started out just mesh. I added that wood to it but just drilling holes (through the mesh) and using bolts with large washers to sandwich the wood to the mesh and then through the frame on the edges. When mounting my TRS I again just made sure I measured using a template I drew up so that it lined up with holes in the mesh. I guess I would have cut them if I had to but Id rather not have so I didnt.

Dont know if that helped lol.
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post #112 of 136 (permalink) Old 04-07-2016, 06:16 PM
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These are before I got the GSXR trackbike but this is my setup....





I usually haul a sport bike and one scooter for pit duty on the Kendon 2 rail. I have used many tie down methods but CycleCynch is by far the very very best. It does not pull your grips in and mess them up. Holds the bike strong and the car doesn't even know anything is back there.
I just bought the same exact trailer. Will be towing it with my Nissan Murano and was worried, but seeing you towing with the Subaru made me feel a lot better. I bought the new version of the canyon dancer but now I'm thinking I should have gotten cycle cynch.

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you have in your hands one of the nicest looking bikes I've ever seen. Great work! That is a beautiful bike.

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post #113 of 136 (permalink) Old 04-07-2016, 09:19 PM
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Cycle Cynch is better. I have used both.
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post #114 of 136 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 04:18 AM
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Cycle Cynch is better. I have used both.
I'm gonna have to send my canyon dancer back then...thanks for the info fellas!

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you have in your hands one of the nicest looking bikes I've ever seen. Great work! That is a beautiful bike.

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post #115 of 136 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 05:56 AM
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I just bought the same exact trailer. Will be towing it with my Nissan Murano and was worried, but seeing you towing with the Subaru made me feel a lot better. I bought the new version of the canyon dancer but now I'm thinking I should have gotten cycle cynch.
You can tow a lot more than that with a murano. Trailer plus 2 bikes is probably only about 1500 pounds. I would bet you are rated to tow close to 5k.

I really like the design of the Kendon's but I just can't get past the price for a trailer that is really no good other than for towing the bike and it's still an open trailer. Hard to beat the convenience of folding up though.

I use the new canyon dancers. No complaints here, haven't seen damage to my grips as of yet.

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post #116 of 136 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 07:34 AM
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Have used Canyon Dancers for years and years but the PitBull TRS is fantastic. So nice to not worry when I open the trailer door to peek that the bike will be somewhere other than I put it.

Click image for larger version

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post #117 of 136 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 07:53 AM
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Have used Canyon Dancers for years and years but the PitBull TRS is fantastic. So nice to not worry when I open the trailer door to peek that the bike will be somewhere other than I put it.

Attachment 258978
+1

After I got the Pitbull TRS, no more worrying about anything.
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post #118 of 136 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 07:55 AM
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Have used Canyon Dancers for years and years but the PitBull TRS is fantastic. So nice to not worry when I open the trailer door to peek that the bike will be somewhere other than I put it.

Attachment 258978
agreed. That is on my list for very soon. The crash has set me back some purchases lol

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post #119 of 136 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 10:26 AM
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I've been thinking about just running two trs plates one on top of the mesh, one on the bottom of the mesh. Do you guys think the mesh would be able to handle that?
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post #120 of 136 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 11:19 AM
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I've been thinking about just running two trs plates one on top of the mesh, one on the bottom of the mesh. Do you guys think the mesh would be able to handle that?
Why don't you put the TRS plate on top of the mesh and a piece of 3/4" plywood under the mesh and then bolt it together? It will sandwich the mesh between the two and distribute the load across a wider surface.
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