LETS TALK TRAILERS.
post your pics, any maintenance you do to it, how you secure your bikes, your trailer size, how many bikes yours will carry, etc. I want to have a good reference point for all the guys thinking of, or just getting onto the track.
I just bought a used 2008 Carry-On 4x7 open trailer and got all new bearings/racer's/grease/etc. Got a spare tire & rim,. Redid all the wiring on the side marker lights & installed brand new submersible tail lights- soldering every connection possible on every light. Installed 2 different hitch locks on it & removed the wheels for the time being to keep the rubber in the garage and out of the elements.
im going to be doing a pit-bull trailer restraint on mine, but mine has a mesh floor. so im thinking of buying a thick piece of 15"x 48" of plywood and bolting it to the trailer's cross beams & frame- and to that, attaching the floor plate of the restraint system. i dont want to do the whole floor in wood, as it will kill my grass(i park mine outside in the back of the house).
Well here is a pic of my setup with just my bike. I can fit 2 bikes with no problem. I have 2 condor wheel chucks that I just ride the bikes up into the trailer and the front wheel is locked in. I put the rear stand under the rear tire and just strap the rear down to hooks in the floor. I hang my suit up right next to the bike and back protector on the other hook. I put the canopy, chairs, tire warmers inbetween the 2 bikes. My tool bag, gas cans and genny all fit behind the bikes. Whatever else goes in the back of the murano. I keep the trailer outside in the grass. Yes it creates a bald spot in the grass by the side of the house. I try to put the trailer in the garage when it snows. I have a 2 car garage.
someone posted something similar recently on another local forum I'm on so here's to copy n paste. :cheers:
This was mine I sold it for the one below it.
This is my new one It has a ramp door to the back. It's nice to drive up but kinda in the way when set up in the paddock. I have to figure storage for tools and "track camp" stuff The wheel chaulk I got from Harbor Freight for 60 bucks and E-track for 20 bucks. It works and hauls easy. The one thing I wish I would of thought about when buying one is that you may end up owning two track bikes or taking a friends....something to consider.
ya i know what those are, but im looking to bolt down a piece of strong plywood to mount my pit-bull restraint system on the trailer (which now has a mesh floor)
thats my plan, but im asking is if anyone knows how hard it is to drill through the metal work is? i want to know if i should buy new drill bits that are made for that specific metal. because right now there is no wood on the trailer- its all mesh
They make countersink bolts that you can use to hold the plywood down to maintain a smooth surface. Google or look up Titanium Torx Socket Countersunk Head Bolt.
im just gonna go with the galvanized bolts.... but i want to put those bolts through the cross members and side rails of the trailer for a really secure fit. i dont want to secure the plywood to the mesh. god forbid that mesh rips off of its welds, and im F*cked.
I got a smoking deal on a trailer from Lowes when my wife worked there...Problem was it was a 4x6, which isnt even big enough for one bike from front to back. So I made a project of it. My welder friend and I extended it 18 inches in the front center and angled it out. From there I also put plywood down for my pit pull system. Instead of drilling into the trailer its self, I measured and properly spaced the holes to in between the mesh. I then used large bolts(dont remember the size) and washers on both sides to sandwich the plywood. Its MORE then stable enough. I have four bolts down the side of the main side of the trailer, 3 in each side of the point and two along the 4 ft sides. Man I hope that made sense.
If weathering is a concern why not use synthetic wood? Trex is one brand and I know there are others. The stuff will last longer than the trailer with little maintenance. It won't splinter or crack. You pretty much just have to clean it if it gets dirty. I don't know how wide the planks come but you could always put 3 or 4 side by side.
Not a concern for me. I went with pressure treated wood like you'd use for a deck on your house. Not sure why i typed plywood earlier with out explaining. ..Im slow.
since im adding the pitbull stand plates, plywood, etc - while things were drying of the paint, i went back in and redid every connection on the trailer. a lot of connections are push-in style and not actually soldered. i soldered EVERY connection on all the tail-lights, and side marker lights. added electrical tape around the wires that are exposed to the elements, etc. but now i have a new idea.....
Anyone install any kind of track-lighting into their trailers? im thinking of placing small LED modules and wiring it to a switch which will be connected to an old bike battery that will be descreatly placed on the trailer. im thinking it will be a cool little feature to have light coming into the center from the rails on the sides.
If you don't care about money, then why not get a nice big diesel hauler and an enclosed trailer. Heck, why not a Toy Hauler with a lift for the bike and sleeping quarters? That's awesome!
But we're talking about a little trailer behind a car here, aren't we?
:lol:
I don't care how many lights you have on the trailer if someone is going to hit you they will hit you no matter what. I had 2 bikes on my open trailer last year in Florida doing 20 mph and of course I got hit in slow moving traffic.
Good info and advice. That got me wondering what my tongue weight is? When I built my trailer, I moved the wheel chock up and back and got it to a place that tows well. I'll have to check that sometime with the bike loaded to find out what I ended up with.
Those of using canyon dancer straps be careful for a few reasons. On gs rs the strap on the older versions(with out the cups) lays right on the horn button and after times usually breaks it. Also if you use them you'd be silly to not use a wheel chock.
I was going to PM trailerpro and ask him so I didnt sound like a complete noob but I figured since some one else may learn from it as well Ill ask in here.
One trip to VIR last year, I was averaging about 85mph down there on the highway. My buddy starting picking on me saying my "little trailer wheels" were going to explode. Told me the bearings couldnt take that speed. If this is true(and I do believe 85 exceeds the speed recommended for my trailer, I dont have a manual tho) what do I upgrade so I dont have to worry about that? Bearings? Entire axel? Wheel/tire combo?
Since the linear velocity is the same for both tires (45 mph), then rotational speed is inversely proportional to radius, or as radius gets smaller, the tire spins faster (and creates more heat).
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