Keying a GSXR/TL fuel cap lock -
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-11-2007, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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Keying a GSXR/TL fuel cap lock

How to re-key a GSXR/TL gas cap lock to your ignition lock

Bear with me as I don’t know all the terminology used in the locksmith industry so I will use terms that are as descriptive as possible. The first step is to round up a few tools. You will definitely need a few very small flat head screwdrivers, a Phillips head screwdriver, a safety pin or a regular sewing needle. You may need a fine pitch metal file (mill file) as well depending on how well the tumbler hooks fit in the tumbler assembly once the new key is inserted. Get one ready to go just in case you need one.

Insert the old key in the gas cap lock (if the cap is mounted on a fuel tank) & loosen then remove the four Allen head bolts that secure the fuel cap to the fuel tank. Yes, you need to unlock the cap in order for you to remove the cap from the tank. Once you remove the the fuel cap set it on a rag with the latch or the side that sits inside the fuel tank facing you. This picture shows the two different keys I have, the metal one being the one that the fuel cap lock came with, the rubber tipped one being the one I keyed the lock to. This shot is from the first lock I keyed, the second lock I re-keyed used 2 rubber tipped keys.

Using a Phillips head screwdriver remove the two screws that secure the steel latch to the cap assembly. Be careful when removing the latch as there is a small spring that pushes the latch into position which doesn't allow the cap to flip open unless you put the key in the lock & turn it. You don’t want to lose that spring! The picture below shows the position the spring needs to be in when you put the latch bracket back on the bottom of the fuel cap.

It is a good idea to remove the gold circular plate that is under the latch you just removed along with the plate with the rubber gasket beneath it that seals the top of the fuel tank. Under the second plate you will find four more springs, those are gold in color. Note, you don’t need to remove these plates & springs but since they were secured by the latch you removed it is a good idea to do so to clean up stuff in there. Technically you could just take the two screws you removed to expose the tumbler assembly & screw them back into place. That would have kept those plates in place. Do it either way depending on how you feel.

With the underside of the tumbler assembly exposed you will now find a metal washer in the slot around the tumbler. Remove it & under it is a rubber o-ring washer. Grab that safety pin & gently pry that rubber o-ring out of there without damaging it. Take your time & work your way around that o-ring & it will eventually pop out.

When you get that rubber o-ring out of that slot you will find another, pretty beat up metal washer/spacer under that o-ring. Remove it as well. It doesn’t look anything like the top washer you removed so there is no way to confuse the two washers. This is the order they will go back into that slot around the tumbler.

Here is a nice close-up image of how that tumbler sits inside the cylinder machined out of the fuel cap assembly. Note that copper colored tang that you can barely see deep in the cylinder bore below the tumbler.

That is a spring loaded latch or hook you will need to press into the tumbler assembly in order to free up the tumbler so you can remove it. That latch holds the tumbler firmly in place. It is recessed & there isn’t much space to access it around the outside of the tumbler. So you will need to find a thin flat head screwdriver that is sturdy enough to be able to withstand the force it will take to push that latch into the tumbler but is thin enough to slide between the cylinder wall and tumbler. This part of the keying is probably the toughest part & there is a technique you need to use in order to make this a lot easier. Seeing what these parts look like when pulled apart should make things much easier for you. Not knowing exactly what I was looking for and at made me waste time playing around with things until I figured things out. How about a shot of the tumbler assembly once it is removed from the fuel cap?

Please fix links and send back

The larger latch/hook at the very end of the tumbler is the one you have to push down into the tumbler to remove it. Note that when the key that fits into the lock is inserted ALMOST all the way into the tumbler this latch will want to stay in place within the tumbler. That is the key (no pun) for you to get this tumbler out easily. If you push the key all the way into the tumbler like how you do it when you want to unlock the lock that last locking latch will not push into the tumbler. The knobbed end of the key will take up all the room that latch needs to be able to be pushed into it’s slot in the tumbler. How far out does the key need to be in order for you to push this latch into the tumbler? Almost all the way in. I found that if you push the key all the way in & slowly pull it back out you can actually feel & hear that latch snap back a little bit as you pull the key back. So the trick is to pull the key back out slowly until you feel that first click. That’s the position it needs to be at in order for you to pull the tumbler out. Here’s a picture of the cylinder in the fuel cap the tumbler slides into:

And here’s a better image of the tumbler mounted inside that fuel cap cylinder with a good view of the copper colored latch holding it in position down in the lower right side of that cylinder.

End of part one


Last edited by Mr. DOBALINA; 02-11-2007 at 09:15 PM.
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-11-2007, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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Part Two

And here's another, somewhat overexposed look at that copper colored latch/clip that holds that tumbler in position. Note the little eyelet hole on that latch. I’m not sure if that part is designed for a special snap ring plier to fit in there or not. I ended up prying on the latch in the curved section just below that eyelet as it held the screwdriver in a pretty good position to pry on it.

Here’s a picture of the screwdriver in position to pry that latch back into the tumbler. If the key is shoved into the tumbler too far that latch will just go into the tumbler a little bit. So no matter how hard you push that sucker in there it will not go in far enough. Remember this is a finese operation! If the key is pushed into the proper position which is not all the way in (& no, don’t turn the key ) that latch/clip will just slide into position easily & the tumbler will just pull out. If the tumbler doesn’t want to pull out while you push the latch in toward the tumbler play with the position of the key. That’s how you will get that tumbler to unhook from the cylinder. Prying harder when the key is in the wrong position won’t do anything but frustrate you. I figured this out by playing around with it. No, that wasn’t a whole lot of fun but I figured it out eventually!

Here is a shot of the tumbler sliding back & out of the fuel cap once that latch was pushed into the tumbler. Boy, it just slides up & out of there with no problem once you got it set up right! Trust me, it will just pop right up.

Now it’s time to actually do the keying of the lock itself. I carefully removed all these clips/latches from the tumbler & placed them on a rag in the order I removed them. You don't have to do it this way. You can just remove the clips that are sticking out too far when the new key is inserted & that will work as well. Note, each of these clips/latches has two springs that engage each clip at each end. All those springs are the same size & they are very small. The cut on the top of each clip/ latch is a little different, so some clips are taller than others. This is to accommodate the various cuts on the key the specific tumbler goes with. Here is a nice shot of the tumbler I removed with the new key I want to key the lock to inserted in the tumbler.

This picture shows how close this particular lock set was to the key I wanted to key the lock to. If the key is the right one for the lock in question all those clips sink down into the tumbler assembly so they are at least flush with the outer circumference of the tumbler. That’s what allows the tumbler to spin freely within the cylindrical bore when the proper key is inserted in the lock. If you take a close look at this “wrong” key for the current lockset you’ll see that one of those clips (the 3rd one from the end) sticks way out of the tumbler assembly. That small clip will prevent that key from opening that lock. Damn, that was close! No matter, there are a few ways to deal with this. Here is a nice shot of that tumbler with all the clips/latches removed.

There are a few different ways to get these clips to work with the new key you plan to use. With the first lock I keyed I just swapped around a few of these clips as I found a few of them were pulled back pretty far into the slot within the tumbler assembly. The tops of those clips sat beneath the outer circumference of the tumbler. So I moved them to a slot where the clip that was in there originally was sticking pretty far out when this new key was installed. By doing this I ended up with the scenario in the above picture. It was pretty darn close but still off by one clip. On this particular lock I just left that one clip out, removed the two springs that load the clip & put it all back together. And yes, it works well. On the second lock I keyed I wasn’t so lucky. No matter how I moved around the clips there were two clips that were definitely too large, even when I tried using that “spare” clip I removed from the other lock. What can you do now? IMO using a mill file to file down the top of the clips’ head is probably the best if not the easiest solution.

I did the filing with the key inserted in the tumbler with the offending clip exposed. That is not the cleanest method to use but when you do it this way you can file off just the amount you need to get the clip to work & you will stay consistant with the radius you cut onto the clip head. The second clip I filed on I decided to try it with the clip removed from the tumbler. I like fabricating things so the second method worked well as I carefully filed the clip to keep the radius cut constant. I did a few trial fittings to see if I had filed down enough material & I then took the time to wipe down the clip before I inserted it back into the tumbler. Do it either way just take the time to clean up the tumber and all the clips when you are done. Here is a shot of the keyed tumbler with the clips in place. That one clip & spring laying off to the side of the tumbler I just left out of the assembly. Note how all those clips are pulled back into that tumbler assembly body cleanly. That last clip is sticking way out as the key was pushed all the way into the tumbler. If you try reinstalling the tumbler with the key in that position you will find it will not want to go back into the cylindrical hole it came out of due to that one clip sticking out.

I recommend after cleaning up the inside of the tumbler & those clips with some cotton swabs & solvent you take the time to spray some graphite on those clips and the inside of the tumbler so that key will slide freely inside the tumbler. Also remember that if any of those clips/latches stick up even just a little above the tumbler assembly when the key is installed the lock will bind & it will be difficult to turn the key if it will turn at all. So you need to take the time to file down the offending clips a little bit so you don’t spend all this time doing the keying & then have to deal with a lock that is tempermental. Here is another picture of the key in the tumbler just pulled back that one click. Note how that end latch/clip has popped back into the latch assembly! Strange stuff.

Reassemble the fuel cap assembly in the reverse order of disassembly. I sprayed a little rubber protectant on the rubber parts in those passageways that had rubber seals in them that vent the cap. I did this when I pulled things apart & let that stuff sit & soak while I worked on the lock. It was a little tricky getting the spring for the latch assembly in the proper position to replace the latch without the spring falling out of place but after a few tries I figured it out. Hold that spring steady under the latch with your finger & drop it back on top of that gold colored plate. Secure it with the two phillip head screws & your done.

There you have it.

You just re-keyed your fuel cap lock assembly. No need to pay a locksmith to do the work or run around with two motorcycle keys in your pocket.

by Gerhard

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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-07-2008, 09:20 AM
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Does anyone know what happened to the pictures? I can only see about three of them.
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-07-2008, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Boss Man View Post
Does anyone know what happened to the pictures? I can only see about three of them.
He likely deleted them from his hosting account, therefore all links to them die.

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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 10-09-2008, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry about that one. I had posted that article on another website & shortly thereafter a few people I knew were scammed by a "preferred" seller on the site. I got involved to help these guys out. The guy ripped members off for $1,100 exhaust systems he never shipped - all to international customers, how convenient. This seller lived only 200 miles away so I did my best to track him down & finally got his local police involved & the shop owner he worked for. After quite a bit of B.S. & my friends overseas got their stuff. For my effort the moderators of that other site basically threatened me, protected their beloved thief & told me if I didn't like it I should pack up & leave. So I packed up, meaning I killed ALL the photo hosted links to ALL my help threads & posts on that website and told them to watch out as they had lots of bad ju-ju going on. I knew I was screwed as I had not protected myself or what I had written up.

Didn't realize killing the links affected this site as well until way later. Damn. If the mods here want to email me I have redone the article & have all the correct links inserted & ready to roll. Since my bad, bad experience with internet losers from that other website I have added some stipulations to the thread as so if this happens again or if someone steals this info for personal profit or to claim it as their own work I can go after them legally. Next time there will be lawyers involved instead of just police. Looks like that's all you can do these days to shut down the a-holes out there that just do not get what this medium should all be about.

Temporarily, the direct links to the site I posted the revised article to are here at this cool Suzuki TL website:

Part One:

Part Two:
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