College budget race bike build - GSXR.com
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post #1 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-04-2016, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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College budget race bike build

Hey everyone, I'm new to this forum, and decided to make a thread following the build of my 2006 GSXR 600.

First of all, the bike is to be built as a race bike. I've been riding my 250 on the track a number of times over the past few years, and decided that I'd like to build a 600 to race. The main reason behind this is that I finally got to feel what a 600 felt like when I rode my dad's '93 CBR F2 at Nola Motorsports after my 250 had started running weirdly.

As mentioned in the title, this will be done on a college budget.

I picked up the bike today for $600. It was in a crash previously, and I'll outline what I have to do to get it relatively back to rideable condition.

1) The frame is cracked on the front left side near the radiator. Sadly I've never welded aluminum before, so a friend of my dad will likely be doing that for us.

2) The subframe needs to be replaced

3) The stator cover needs to be replaced

4) I need a gauge cluster

5) I need a new front wheel

6) It needs the upper fairing stay bracket

7) It needs all new fairings (Race fairings) and a windscreen

8) It needs a battery

The first things I will do are to replace the stator cover and subframe, then take it to our friend to have him weld the frame up. We're still not sure if we need to pull the motor out or not, but we'll find out.

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I'll be posting progress here for anyone interested in the bike, and hopefully I'll learn some things here on the forum!

Oh yeah, and if anyone is interested here's a picture of my current 250 after a little wipeout at NOLA Motorsports


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post #2 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-04-2016, 09:24 PM
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Jesus Christ, get a new frame. Ignoring how bad of an idea that is, I somehow don't see that flying with tech inspection. There is a time and a place to save money, cheaping out on the structural integrity of the entire motorcycle is not it.
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post #3 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-04-2016, 10:54 PM Thread Starter
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Jesus Christ, get a new frame. Ignoring how bad of an idea that is, I somehow don't see that flying with tech inspection. There is a time and a place to save money, cheaping out on the structural integrity of the entire motorcycle is not it.
I'm not sure if I made it clear or not, but let me say it again.

The crack is being rewelded by a professional welder who is extremely adept in aluminum welding and does it in the commercial field all the time.
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post #4 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-05-2016, 04:01 AM
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I'm not sure if I made it clear or not, but let me say it again.

The crack is being rewelded by a professional welder who is extremely adept in aluminum welding and does it in the commercial field all the time.
Welding a piece of aluminum is one thing.. welding a bike that you will be riding on is another. I like your motivation to buy a wrecked bike and build it back up again but its never a good idea to weld a bike your trusting your life with.

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post #5 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-05-2016, 04:54 AM
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I won't say you can't or shouldn't repair the frame, but I will say use extreme caution in doing so and maybe consider looking for a frame. I would get the bike down to bare frame to release all the stress on the frame and check to make sure the frame is true before you bother going forward. Riding a tweaked frame at high speeds is a recipe for disaster.

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post #6 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-05-2016, 05:24 AM
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I'm sure the frame can be adequately welded by a professional.

My question would be, is it anywhere close to being aligned after crashing hard enough to crack the frame then distorted further by welding?

I agree with others that you should find another frame. If you could find a bike with a blown motor, you could probably part the rest out for what you bought it for.
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post #7 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-05-2016, 07:09 AM Thread Starter
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I appreciate everyone's concern, but I'll be looking at the frame thoroughly once it's time to be welded. The crack is hairline, not a massive dislocation.

It's going to be stripped down and welded from both sides. I believe it'll be fine.
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post #8 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-05-2016, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
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Another thing I'd like to mention on the crack is that it's straight down the center of the weld.

From what I know, a crack down the weld like that is a sign of a bad weld usually, and in that case it probably wouldn't have taken much to crack it like that.

The rest of the frame is probably good. It looked really good when I was looking through it yesterday, no other cracks or noticeable twistage.
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post #9 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-05-2016, 09:13 AM
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Sure it could certainly be a bad weld, but WHY it's a bad weld is just as important (mind you most factories have non-destructive weld quality assurance/control, I know we do it and we have hundreds of linear feet of welds per product). Excessive porosity? weld contamination? Shallow Weld? Some failures are much easier to repair than others. Again, not saying it can't or shouldn't be fixed, just make sure you are taking every precaution. Without putting the frame in a jig or having very specific measurements to make, it's very difficult to notice "twistage" that is still enough to create potentially dangerous scenarios.
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post #10 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-05-2016, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Elfert View Post
Another thing I'd like to mention on the crack is that it's straight down the center of the weld.

From what I know, a crack down the weld like that is a sign of a bad weld usually, and in that case it probably wouldn't have taken much to crack it like that.

The rest of the frame is probably good. It looked really good when I was looking through it yesterday, no other cracks or noticeable twistage.
Who are you trying to convince?

So far no one thinks this is a good idea except you.

If you're happy, just go with your plan. If you believe the crack is a defect rather then caused by the accident, no problem, people believe in all kinds of things.

I have seen a few cracks in 1k frames which seem to be traceable to frequent, clumsy wheelies. I've not seen a spontaneous 600 frame crack, but you might have the one.

As my Swedish friends would say about their neighbors "You can always tell a Norwegian, but you can't tell him much".

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post #11 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-05-2016, 09:55 AM
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I would look into buying another frame. I once went to a professional aluminum welder who repaired my ZX6R cracked frame. After a few months of aggressive riding, the frame cracked again at the same repaired location. I was told by another welder that the reason it cracked again was because there was no way for the welder to know exactly what aluminum blend the mfg. used to produce the frame so there is no way to get a perfect repair without knowing that information.

If you go the route of the repair, just pay attention to the repair for any possible cracks that may present itself. Salvaged frames are cheap, I would save the time and energy and just go in that direction.

If you do go the weld direction, please keep us updated with how it's holding up...
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post #12 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-05-2016, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
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Didn't they do a recall on 05/06 GSXRs for weak welds? I can't remember where I read that
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post #13 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-05-2016, 11:00 AM
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Didn't they do a recall on 05/06 GSXRs for weak welds? I can't remember where I read that
I believe that was just on the liter bikes.

American Suzuki Recalling 2005-2006 GSX-R1000s For Frame Bracing, Replacement Or Reimbursement

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post #14 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-05-2016, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
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Didn't they do a recall on 05/06 GSXRs for weak welds? I can't remember where I read that
I believe that was just on the liter bikes.

American Suzuki Recalling 2005-2006 GSX-R1000s For Frame Bracing, Replacement Or Reimbursement
It might've been.
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post #15 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-05-2016, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
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Alright so after discussing it with my dad, we've come to a decision on how to handle it.

We're going to go ahead and try to have it welded.

We're going to pull the motor out and everything in the way to get to the crack, and take some measurements to ensure that everything is straight. I'm going to be looking online to find some dimensions on it, or if anyone here could provide me with some good reference dimensions, that'd be awesome.

Then we're gonna have our guy weld it. And yeah, I'll be keeping yall updated on how it all works out.

The way I see it, any frame I buy pretty much involves taking the sellers word for it that it's straight, especially since most of them come from wrecked machines anyway. If this doesn't work out, I can always replace the frame later.

Right now, the frame on mine looks as straight as can be, but we'll be looking at that further. The crack doesn't go all the way around the frame, so it's still held together at the moment.

Like I said, I'll be keeping everyone updated on how the process goes, and if anyone has any good reference dimensions off their '06 600 they'd be willing to share, I'd greatly appreciate it!
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post #16 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-05-2016, 07:57 PM
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I'm not sure if I made it clear or not, but let me say it again.

The crack is being rewelded by a professional welder who is extremely adept in aluminum welding and does it in the commercial field all the time.
A professional welder that is an expert in welding motorcycle frames would likely not touch this. The liability is too great. Again, just call the track, and ask them what they think.

The fact of the matter is that you have no idea how to inspect a frame to check if it's compromised, nor are you bothering to consider the risks of riding a compromised frame to not only yourself, but others. I can say this because if you did, you would have already scrapped the idea. I don't care if you decide to race alone on a wrecked frame, good for you. You can learn the hard way if it breaks apart. But it's another thing entirely when you're in close proximity to others while traveling at high speeds.

We get it, you're on a college budget and you want to ride. That's cool. But you're making a very poor decision, I do not care how "professional" your welder is, nor how long you spend inspecting the frame. The forces required to damage that frame like that is tremendous, and you may have a hairline crack or an entirely tweaked frame. I went on eBay, you can find a frame for under $700. Or look on 13x. If you buy it on eBay, any damage to it that was not reported will immediately allow you to return it. And buying it from a large dealer means that their reputation is at stake, so you have a bit more confidence in them.

Reference for checking frame:
http://www.framestraightsystem.com/M...me%20Check.htm

Last edited by Just_Nick; 08-05-2016 at 08:00 PM.
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post #17 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-06-2016, 01:42 AM
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A professional welder that is an expert in welding motorcycle frames would likely not touch this. The liability is too great. Again, just call the track, and ask them what they think.

The fact of the matter is that you have no idea how to inspect a frame to check if it's compromised, nor are you bothering to consider the risks of riding a compromised frame to not only yourself, but others. I can say this because if you did, you would have already scrapped the idea. I don't care if you decide to race alone on a wrecked frame, good for you. You can learn the hard way if it breaks apart. But it's another thing entirely when you're in close proximity to others while traveling at high speeds.

We get it, you're on a college budget and you want to ride. That's cool. But you're making a very poor decision, I do not care how "professional" your welder is, nor how long you spend inspecting the frame. The forces required to damage that frame like that is tremendous, and you may have a hairline crack or an entirely tweaked frame. I went on eBay, you can find a frame for under $700. Or look on 13x. If you buy it on eBay, any damage to it that was not reported will immediately allow you to return it. And buying it from a large dealer means that their reputation is at stake, so you have a bit more confidence in them.

Reference for checking frame:
http://www.framestraightsystem.com/M...me%20Check.htm
Amen brother

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post #18 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-06-2016, 08:07 AM
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Reference for checking frame:
Do It Yourself, Motorcycle Frame Check
Thanks for the link.

Hopefully I won't need his services, but it is nice to know it is available reasonably close by.

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post #19 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-06-2016, 04:23 PM
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Wink

Complete Race Bike PART-OUT - K6 600 / 750

Look he has a frame with title for sale!!!!
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post #20 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-06-2016, 06:36 PM
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Complete Race Bike PART-OUT - K6 600 / 750

Look he has a frame with title for sale!!!!
Actually, the frame is sold dude. Read through the thread.
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post #21 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-06-2016, 06:38 PM
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Actually, the frame is sold dude. Read through the thread.
My bad.

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post #22 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-12-2016, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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Update

An update on the build.

The other day I JB welded a crack in the stator cover to stop it from dripping oil long enough to get the bike cranked and running. It took around 3 hours to get it started, and ended up taking so long due to the TOS and the kickstand switch. Once it cranked, it sounded great and runs like a charm.

I then ordered a new gauge cluster and got it in today, but I didn't realize there was a separate wiring harness for the headlight/gauge cluster that comes off the big plug at the front of the bike. Of course mine was missing that mini-harness, so I haven't been able to hook it up yet, but I'll be ordering one off ebay soon enough.

Today was a big day for progress on the build, we tore the bike down to almost bare frame, minus the front forks, in about two and a half hours, not really knowing what we were doing. This bike was a dream to work on and take apart! We only stopped because I didn't want to piss off the neighbors with all the noise at 10:30,

I also have a new subframe ordered to be shipped to me soon to replace the old one.

Next step is to get it fully down to frame and continue from there...

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post #23 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-18-2016, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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Time for another update.

We took the front forks off the bike, and my dad brought it to work with him for the shop welder to work on it. He spent a few minutes each day on it, and I think it came out very well.

He first ground out all the old weld, and ground a V into the frame down the joinment. He then welded it fully in, let it cool, and repeated welds on top of each other for integrity. He also welded the inside the same way. Finally, he added a 1/8" brace on the bottom of both sides of the frame to help support the frame for the future.

Once I got it, I hit it with a flap disk to smooth it out a little, and threw some Rustoleum Bedliner on it to match the original texture.
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post #24 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-19-2016, 06:57 AM Thread Starter
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By the way, I think I put this thread in the wrong place, so could a moderator move the thread to the builders corner section? I don't want to busy up the general chat unnecessarily lol
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post #25 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-19-2016, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
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Another update, got my cluster harness in today, and began reassembling the bike. Unfortunately, the bedliner started coming off due to the straps, but I can just recoat it, not a big deal.

The reassembly is going very smoothly, currently still have to put the front end back in, exhaust, radiator, and some other things, but it's coming nicely.
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post #26 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-20-2016, 01:00 AM
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I like your dedication man.
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post #27 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-20-2016, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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I like your dedication man.
Thanks! Means a lot
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post #28 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-20-2016, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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Finished reassembling the bike today, but I still need to replace the subframe and some other parts, but it's back together. Once I threw some WaterWetter/Water in the radiator it ran like a top and went through all the gears on the stand.

Also I'm happy to see that the gauge works lol

So the remaining parts that I know I need are:

-Subframe
-Stator Cover (being shipped)
-Upper fairing stay (being shipped)
-Frame sliders
-Battery (we may have a good one but it's probably bad)
-Front Wheel
-Both tires: I'm thinking Diablo Supercorsas.
-Windscreen
-Complete fairing set
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post #29 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-27-2016, 07:06 PM Thread Starter
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The other day I got my upper fairing stay and stator cover in and went ahead and threw the fairing stay in. Today I got my subframe in off eBay and put it on too.

Today I changed the oil filter, put the stator cover on, and put 3 quarts of Valvoline in it. Still runs like a charm.

Next is to get a new front wheel, new tires, a battery, and fairings!
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post #30 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-30-2016, 09:47 AM
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Regarding the battery, WPS is a light weight battery that cost less then the average light weight batteries. I've had mine for three years and still going strong. they run about $100 and change
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post #31 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-30-2016, 01:12 PM
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Once I threw some WaterWetter/Water in the radiator it ran like a top and went through all the gears on the stand.
You did what now?


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post #32 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-31-2016, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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Once I threw some WaterWetter/Water in the radiator it ran like a top and went through all the gears on the stand.
You did what now?

Lol, I put the bike on the rear swingarm stand and let the wheel spin as I ran it through the gears slowly just to make sure it all worked right.
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post #33 of 54 (permalink) Old 08-31-2016, 10:38 PM Thread Starter
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Regarding the battery, WPS is a light weight battery that cost less then the average light weight batteries. I've had mine for three years and still going strong. they run about $100 and change

I was going to go with one of the AGM powersport batteries we sell at autozone for like $80 or so. Decent warranty plus discount, should do the trick hopefully.

Though those WPS ones are dang affordable...Thanks for the input!
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post #34 of 54 (permalink) Old 10-23-2016, 07:14 PM Thread Starter
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Finished

Alright, the bike is finished with its first stage.

I bought the fairings from a buddy for $100, and painted them up and threw them on. He also mounted my new Bridgestone RS10s that I got for me.

Today was the bikes maiden voyage after being put back together, we took it to NOLA Motorsports park. Aside from a few trips around the neighborhood, this was the first time the bike would really be ridden since its repairs.

The only issues we had were some clutch slippage in the morning, but it seems to have been caused by the clutch cable not having enough slack, because when I adjusted it, it went away almost completely, adjusted again, it did it like once or twice the rest of the day. The other issue was vibration from the front brakes every time they were applied. It feels like a potentially warped rotor or the pads are just that bad, I haven't replaced what was on there when I got the bike...lol

Other than those two little things, the bike was great, and I began to get comfortable on it very quickly.

The next things to do are to change the brake pads and look at the rotors, safety wire the bike, and continue to modify to improve its track performance.

And the frame is still in one continuous piece, even after some aggressive braking, for those who are curious.
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post #35 of 54 (permalink) Old 10-23-2016, 07:18 PM
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That paint job is amazing. Way to go on that. Glad to see you got it done. Keep us updated on how she does

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post #36 of 54 (permalink) Old 10-23-2016, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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That paint job is amazing. Way to go on that. Glad to see you got it done. Keep us updated on how she does

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Thanks man! Was pretty cheap to do, just used some Rustoleum Acrylic Enamel spray paint from Autozone. There's a bunch of imperfections, especially because I learned that I can't work clear coat for crap. Wrinkled up a bunch of spots along with a few masking tape oopsies...But as long as it looks good from the wall I'm satisfied lol

And I'll keep it updated for sure. Still not sure if I put this thread in the wrong section lmao
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post #37 of 54 (permalink) Old 10-24-2016, 09:42 AM
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Yeah im definitely following this...good stuff man, glad to see its on the track and workin for ya! check out motomummy.com thats where i get a lot of my parts or sportbiketrackgear.com

awesome customer service and always there when you need to call
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post #38 of 54 (permalink) Old 12-19-2016, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
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Alright, update time.

I took the bike to Jennings GP for my second weekend on the bike, and it did very well. I borrowed a set of rotors from a friend to stop the shaking from the front end during braking, and it rode great.

The only problem I've been having is clutch slippage. It's been slipping since my first ride, but I didn't worry much about it. However it was costing me a good amount of lap time this weekend around. It almost acts like it's a torque converter at times, and takes a few seconds for the output speed to match the input speed at full lock LOL

That being said, my next track day will likely be around January 15th at NOLA. I should have a new clutch kit in and new rotors by then, so it should be completely good to go from that point! I also need to lower the front slightly because the bike tends to track pretty wide out of corners. The top of the forks is perfectly flush with the triple clamp, so I will lower it around half a centimeter or so to start.

Also, I appreciate the feedback from you all. It helps me a lot and makes me want to post here.

Some pictures from this weekend:
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1_1_resized.jpg   13_2_resized.jpg   13_3_resized.jpg   14_1_resized.jpg  
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post #39 of 54 (permalink) Old 12-19-2016, 07:21 PM
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Looking good!

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post #40 of 54 (permalink) Old 12-19-2016, 07:25 PM
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I love that paint job. Looking good compared to your first post

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