FI Fault Code List / Dealer Mode Switch

C14 - THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR C15 - ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR C21 - INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR C22 - ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE SENSOR C23 - TIPOVER SENSOR C24 - IGNITION SIGNAL #1 C25 - IGNITION SIGNAL #2 C26 - IGNITION SIGNAL #3 C27 - IGNITION SIGNAL #4 C28 - SECONDARY THROTTLE VALVE ACTUATOR C29 - SECONDARY THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR C30 - SECONDARY THROTTLE CONTROL UNIT C31 - GEAR POSITION SENSOR C32 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #1 C33 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #2 C34 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #3 C35 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #4 C41 - FUEL PUMP CONTROL SYSTEM C42 - IGNITION SWITCH SIGNAL C46 - EXHAUST CONTROL VALVE ACTUATOR (01-02 1000 and 06-07 600/750/1000 ONLY) Location of dealer mode switch and how to get the codes. The dealer mode connector is under the tail cowling on the left side of the bike, near the regulator/rectifier. It will have only two wires going to it. It is is small white connector that does not plug into anything, and has a rubber cap on one end. BLACK W/ GREEN BAND Wire with a WHITE STRIPE and a WHITE W/ GREEN BAND Wire with a RED STRIPE you just use a paper clip to jump the two wires together in the connector. this is for models with 16 bit ECM's or you can buy ONE OF THESE (16- bit has 2 wires at thh plug/ 32 bit has 4 wires at the plug) https://www2.2checkout.com/2co/buyer/orderpage?TCOID=1c303730b9cc912a7055a9c7c5affe26&sid=60770 __________________

go here http://www.81x.com/bugman/gixxerprojects

go here http://www.81x.com/bugman/gixxerprojects This is weird, after riding my 2002 GSXR-1000 over 19,000 miles I get the F1 code C46. I follow the directions according to the link which the white connection was still plugged up to the Servo and splice the other two wires B/R & R/B. Code is gone which I tested this after for over 1 hour. No F1 code. What really amazes me is how come I rode for over 19,000 miles before this happened and never got a Code C46. Originally when the full exhaust Yosh RS-3 was installed all was done was the black/brown wire from the ECU input will prevent that "Fi" warning message from appearing in your instrument panel. That was the only wire cut, that's it. Oh well problem solved which I have been pondering this whole year. hehe...:thumbup:

On 2005 GSXR1000 when I install the jumper I get the C00 code. How do I get rid of the F1 and light if nothing is wrong?Looked through everything listed and I did not see anything about it. Thanks

On 2005 GSXR1000 when I install the jumper I get the C00 code. How do I get rid of the F1 and light if nothing is wrong?Looked through everything listed and I did not see anything about it. Thanks Disconnect you neg(-) side of your battery and let set for 5 min. C00 means no fault found. Just think you need to reset the entire ECU/CDI. Did you hook up a full exhaust? I think there's a brown wire on you harness plug to your ECU that needs to be cut. Can't tell you exactly which one. That will keep the F1 code from showing up but I'm not sure about you 05 model. I have the 02 1000cc, it's wiring is all different.

Got it figured out. I actually had a fault, the jumper is installed while the system is powered up. Got the fault for exhaust, my scorpion exhaust wheel that replaces the cable pully on the servo fell off. I had to make a new one. When you cycle the key it resets the ECU, no fault. Thanks for the great info from everybody.

where is the plug on a k61000 b/c i took mine seat cowl off and do not see it??? also my fi light come on for like 10 seconds at my girlfriends house so i cut the bike off and cut it right back on now the fi light is gone and i rode back home and to the gas station and it has not come back on,,,also the bike seems to be running fine

well i have a manual now and from what i can tell mine is right beside the battery,,,but i think it has 6 wires in it instead of 2 so does any one know which ones to run together with a paperclip so i can check for codes even though its not doing anything anymore

Hey , I got 2006 GSXR 750 , the code was c46 , FI light stays on all the time . I took the back tail section off to get to the Actuator Assy, Exhaust Control , I forced it counterclock wise and it cuts off the exhaust , then turn the key on it readjust back to postion it stays at and the FI light goes off ,turn it off then back on the FI light comes back on and stays on, when I turn key on the Actuator Assy, Exhaust Control does not move it just clicks and jerks a little. But if i force it counterclock wise it will move back to the original position.I adjusted the cable both ways no diffrence the FI light stays on , disconnected the cables off Actuator Assy, Exhaust Control when turn the key on it rotates about half a turn clockwise ,still keeps the FI light on when its running.any advise ? Thanks for any suggestions !

After riding over 10,000 miles on my 2006 750, FI started to show instead of temperature... (only) sometimes. Took it to dealer who said it needed to adjust exhaust valve (the wires) - as the error was shown because the valve did not fully close. 8,000 more miles since then and no problem. ..So guess I'm speaking 'bout your C46 issue :)

After riding over 10,000 miles on my 2006 750, FI started to show instead of temperature... (only) sometimes. Took it to dealer who said it needed to adjust exhaust valve (the wires) - as the error was shown because the valve did not fully close. 8,000 more miles since then and no problem. ..So guess I'm speaking 'bout your C46 issue :) ..also look to Service Manual thread here to get more info from manuals

one option could be just to take the set valve out and disconnect the wire that runs to the ecu,,,i think its a brown wire but not real sure there are threads up about it if that's the route you choose to take

one option could be just to take the set valve out and disconnect the wire that runs to the ecu,,,i think its a brown wire but not real sure there are threads up about it if that's the route you choose to take It could also be a solution :). Recently I saw a discussion somewhere (cannot remember where) where one guy was wondering, whether the x-haust valve (at K6/K7 750) is rather for fullfilling noise emissions instead of increasing midrange torque... but I do not know the answer ;)

i couldnt tell a difference on my k61000 but that was also with a slip on,,, most exhaust do away with them anyway

If you disconnect the brown wire from the set valve that goes to the ecu will the bike be able to go over 186mph? I have heard that a wire controls the speedometer limiter and if we disconnect that wire the speedoemter will be able to proceed past 186mph. So, which wire stops the bike from going beyond the limiter 186mph? I was told by someone who installed a slip-on Yosh. that he disconnected a wire from the exhaust valve and it will now go beyond 186mph.

If you disconnect the brown wire from the set valve that goes to the ecu will the bike be able to go over 186mph? I have heard that a wire controls the speedometer limiter and if we disconnect that wire the speedoemter will be able to proceed past 186mph. So, which wire stops the bike from going beyond the limiter 186mph? I was told by someone who installed a slip-on Yosh. that he disconnected a wire from the exhaust valve and it will now go beyond 186mph. set valve wire has nothing to do with the limiter,,,you can put a tre on it and that will allow bikes to run faster than the factory limiter,,,as far as the wire goes who ever told you that is full of it

so i have a 05 600 and i think i seen the plug but it seam to have 4 wires does anyone know which ones i jump .. also .. if im looking at the right ones .. its under the seat behind all the ecu and all the other shit there .. thanks for your help

nobody seems to know on the newere bikes but i do believe mine is right beside battery with a rubber cap on it however like everyone else I dont know what wires to jumper either. for those having issues with the valve when you turn your key on watch the cables under oil pan and see what they do, from what i have seen the issue with these servos is a wire coming undone that needs to be re soldered.

Hey , I got 2006 GSXR 750 , the code was c46 , FI light stays on all the time . I took the back tail section off to get to the Actuator Assy, Exhaust Control , I forced it counterclock wise and it cuts off the exhaust , then turn the key on it readjust back to postion it stays at and the FI light goes off ,turn it off then back on the FI light comes back on and stays on, when I turn key on the Actuator Assy, Exhaust Control does not move it just clicks and jerks a little. But if i force it counterclock wise it will move back to the original position.I adjusted the cable both ways no diffrence the FI light stays on , disconnected the cables off Actuator Assy, Exhaust Control when turn the key on it rotates about half a turn clockwise ,still keeps the FI light on when its running.any advise ? Thanks for any suggestions ! 2006 600. Did exactly same thing. Had to take of the stock exhaust just to check what was the valve doing. Key always on, I noticed that when you turn the red switch (run) ON, valve will close 70% then fully open again. When I switched the run button off then once again ON, Ive noticed that now (2nd time) the valve closed 100%. Did this same thing, but now getting the engine running and guess what? Turned the key ON, turned the run bttn ON and started the engine. FI was blinking. Turned the run OFF,then back ON, hit the start an the FI was gone. This second time I could actually hear a quick mute in the exhaust, caused for the complete valve closure. Ive came to understand that every every time when you start your bike and valve doesn't fully closes you get FI but when you start your bike and valve closes 100% then opens right back you don't get FI. So, every single time the valve fully closed after startup I wouldn't get the FI advise. POSSIBLE CAUSES: 1-Low battery voltage- When you are about to start your engine, lights, gauges, starter, ECU and valve servo, all these makes a big drain in batt. lowering the voltage causing servo not to be strong enough to fully close the valve. (The last 20% of the valve movement is the hardest one cuz of the spring array that tends to keep it open) 2-Damaged servo- As any servo after a while it can loose part of its power(just an option) 3- rusted valve junctures (will spray chain lube tomorrow, let you know what happened. Hopefully wont start a fire) This is just what Ive seen in my bike. I could be completely wrong. Guess we should ask a SUKI designer. ofcourse we are not going to find one here::laughingr Later..........

I put my bike into dealer mode and it showed code C22. From that chart it said the it is the atomspheric pressure valve. Alright so how do I fix it?

i have an 08 gsxr 600 with 700 miles on the bike and the fi and the red light is on. i ran the bike almost empty and then fi light turned on. i have a hotbodie slip on exhaust that was put on two days before the light came on and i did find the dealer switch with 4 wires on it, but i do not know how to get code. i also wanted to know where to find the set valve if the 08 has one.

C14 - THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR C15 - ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR C21 - INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR C22 - ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE SENSOR C23 - TIPOVER SENSOR C24 - IGNITION SIGNAL #1 C25 - IGNITION SIGNAL #2 C26 - IGNITION SIGNAL #3 C27 - IGNITION SIGNAL #4 C28 - SECONDARY THROTTLE VALVE ACTUATOR C29 - SECONDARY THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR C30 - SECONDARY THROTTLE CONTROL UNIT C31 - GEAR POSITION SENSOR C32 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #1 C33 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #2 C34 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #3 C35 - INJECTOR SIGNAL #4 C41 - FUEL PUMP CONTROL SYSTEM C42 - IGNITION SWITCH SIGNAL C46 - EXHAUST CONTROL VALVE ACTUATOR (01-02 1000 and 06-07 600/750/1000 ONLY) Location of dealer mode switch and how to get the codes. The dealer mode connector is under the tail cowling on the left side of the bike, near the regulator/rectifier. It will have only two wires going to it. It is is small white connector that does not plug into anything, and has a rubber cap on one end. BLACK W/ GREEN BAND Wire with a WHITE STRIPE and a WHITE W/ GREEN BAND Wire with a RED STRIPE you just use a paper clip to jump the two wires together in the connector. this is for models with 16 bit ECM's or you can buy ONE OF THESE (16- bit has 2 wires at thh plug/ 32 bit has 4 wires at the plug) https://www2.2checkout.com/2co/buyer/orderpage?TCOID=1c303730b9cc912a7055a9c7c5affe26&sid=60770 __________________ http://elborracho.org/files/gsxr1000k7servicemanual.pdf. Here is the service manual for the 07 08 gsxr 1000. This should help.

i have an 08 gsxr 600 with 700 miles on the bike and the fi and the red light is on. i ran the bike almost empty and then fi light turned on. i have a hotbodie slip on exhaust that was put on two days before the light came on and i did find the dealer switch with 4 wires on it, but i do not know how to get code. i also wanted to know where to find the set valve if the 08 has one. http://elborracho.org/files/gsxr1000k7servicemanual.pdf. Here is the service manual for the 07 08 gsxr 1000. This should help.

2006 600. Did exactly same thing. Had to take of the stock exhaust just to check what was the valve doing. Key always on, I noticed that when you turn the red switch (run) ON, valve will close 70% then fully open again. When I switched the run button off then once again ON, Ive noticed that now (2nd time) the valve closed 100%. Did this same thing, but now getting the engine running and guess what? Turned the key ON, turned the run bttn ON and started the engine. FI was blinking. Turned the run OFF,then back ON, hit the start an the FI was gone. This second time I could actually hear a quick mute in the exhaust, caused for the complete valve closure. Ive came to understand that every every time when you start your bike and valve doesn't fully closes you get FI but when you start your bike and valve closes 100% then opens right back you don't get FI. So, every single time the valve fully closed after startup I wouldn't get the FI advise. POSSIBLE CAUSES: 1-Low battery voltage- When you are about to start your engine, lights, gauges, starter, ECU and valve servo, all these makes a big drain in batt. lowering the voltage causing servo not to be strong enough to fully close the valve. (The last 20% of the valve movement is the hardest one cuz of the spring array that tends to keep it open) 2-Damaged servo- As any servo after a while it can loose part of its power(just an option) 3- rusted valve junctures (will spray chain lube tomorrow, let you know what happened. Hopefully wont start a fire) This is just what Ive seen in my bike. I could be completely wrong. Guess we should ask a SUKI designer. ofcourse we are not going to find one here::laughingr Later.......... dovermann , you da MAN!!!!! Been having the same problems but did like you said and wire was loose. Tightened them up and all is well. Thanx a million!!!!!! :thumbup:

dovermann , you da MAN!!!!! Been having the same problems but did like you said and wire was loose. Tightened them up and all is well. Thanx a million!!!!!! :thumbup: GOOD 2 KNOW THAT IT WAS HELPFUL 2 SOME1

hey i just bought my first sportbike a 1999 gsxr 750 and theres a problem where my bike govners out at arouund 7-8000 rpm and the fi light comes on and the gauages completely shut down for a sec and then shell cut back in ...code 00 comes up which means no fault but theres sumthing obviously wrong...any comments would be great thx

GOOD 2 KNOW THAT IT WAS HELPFUL 2 SOME1 Also , to take it a step farther , I took the factory pipe off and sprayed the valve with PJ1 ( lub ) and the wires also and runs great. Haven't had the problem anymore but I still keep my fingers crossed everytime I fire the bike up. :shifty

found out my problem...kick stand sensor wasnt going in as far as it was suppose to

mine seems to have majically repaired itself.. i went and got the switch and everything.. found the plug i needed to jump.. and i been riding for a week now.. with no issues.. knock on wood..

today when I took off from work I notice the red indicator light stayed on and FI was flashing were the temperature shows, so I rode my bike straight home. 2 hours later I started up my bike and it's gone. Will this come back? what does it mean? help please, oh yeah, It's a K7 600 with 2900 miles.

more than likey mine did the same thing and pulld code yesterday and it was c00 the default went to start today and fi on again pulled the code again now it is c46 exhaust value going to try and lube it and see if it fixes the problem

Does anyone know how to fix a code C30. My local dealer has no idea what it is or how to fix it. I can't find anthing on the secondary throttle control unit. Titus

more than likey mine did the same thing and pulld code yesterday and it was c00 the default went to start today and fi on again pulled the code again now it is c46 exhaust value going to try and lube it and see if it fixes the problem Is the exhast value the flap that opens and closes where you bolt on the slip-on to? What part do you lube??

im going to try lube up the cables that go to the servo on the right side of the bike

im going to try lube up the cables that go to the servo on the right side of the bike What kinda lube do you use?

i figured out the it is the valve not opening all the way . i can grab with pliers and open the turn bike on and it cycles trough and no fi light ,turn it off and back on and the light is back on .for the cables in using cable life lub and the flap i think im going to use pblaster.

all it was a cable that was to tight just loosened it and it works fine

FI error codes for me.. 2004 GSXR1000 Full Yoshi TRS exhause Power commander C32/C33/C34/C35 Fuel Injector: Crankshaft position sensor (pickup coil) signal is produced, but fuel injector signal is interrupted continous by 4 times or more in this case, the code C24, C25, C26, C27 is indicated. Injector, wiring/coupler connection, power supply to the injector. Ok, here is what happened.. i put the paper clip and put the bike into dealer mode.. the bike is running normal.. then the infamous light comes on, the bike cuts off, no power, then comes back on.. those codes are what pops up. K, do i need a new sensor?? or, a battery, Only thing done to this bike since i got it, was i removed the rear fender, and rear liscense plate light.. thats the only thing that is not plugged in. and i never got these codes untill that happened. i am wondering if i should plug in the light.. just and see if thats some kinda wiring/coupler connection.

just wondering if anyone on here got a c28 code befor and what you did to fix it.

i have code C21 - INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR C23 - TIPOVER SENSOR how can i fix this .......please help

i have a gsxr 750 1997 how do i bypass the dealer switch...

There is no pink or black wire under the tail. Mine seem to be by the battery. I do not know which wires to jump to find the code can anyone help

I have an SV and I have the dealer mode switch hard wired into a switch. Anyway, I have the SDS connector down by the dealer mode connector and was wondering if anybody has any information on the Suzuki Diagnostic System and how it's used? :hmmm: Don't see much about this. My dealer told me about it a little.

Hi all today after dropped the bike with a slow speed, tried to turn on and found out that my F I flashing, do some research online and test the dealer mode , code : -C00, according to the code list it's ok, but don't know why its still on, just do the oil change and top up the coolant last week, any idea guys thanks. by the way to those who have 07, the dealer mode is under the rider seat just incase u need it.

So after searching for a while (yes i used the search function) I can't seem to find an answer that is 100%. Tonight I took the exhaust valve motor and cables off of my 05 1000. What do I need to do with which wire to avoid getting a check engine light? Any help is MUCH appreciated

Bump it up for an answer

im from Israel and i have a GSXR600 2009 (Eurupien version) the bike is limited to 33hp by CDI/ECU (from the factory) i ordered a unlimited/regular CDI from the US when i connected it, the bike wont start and shows FI i found out its C42 that means IGNITION SWITCH SIGNAL the red light (with the key in it) stays on and wont blink. someone knows how to fix it without going to the dealer (dont want to lose my warenty), instructions ? thanks Daniel

My friend's bike wont start. He said he tried the paper clip thing for dealer mode but put the clip in the wrong place. Probably shorted something out. What did he kill and how do we fix his mess? :bowdown: 04 gsxr1000

Throughtout these posts seems most are just having the fault light appear, but my bike always sputters a bit as it comes on indicating it's a little more than just a fault light problem. It only happens at low RPMs, but can happen at the beginning of my ride before its completely warmed up or after a long highway ride. There doesn't seem to be much of a pattern, but it does happen about 4 out of 5 times on the bike. I've taken it to the Suzuki dealer twice and the first time they adjusted the idle and all that changed was that it idles faster. The next trip they replaced all 4 injectors claiming rust, but all that changed was making my bank account smaller. At the same time the guy said he gave me a new map and I could tell a difference in performance (very, very strong), but it will still sputter at low RPMs and the FI light is right back. I can reset it by turning off the ignition, but it will come back. Add ons: Previously it had a Power Commander that started acting up, so it was removed by those same Suzuki guys. It also has a Jardine slip on exhaust and a GPS tracking system with Alarm & back-up battery. In reading these posts I will attempt to get the code using the tips I've read, but does anyone have any suggestions of what may be the cause? Thanks!

Throughtout these posts seems most are just having the fault light appear, but my bike always sputters a bit as it comes on indicating it's a little more than just a fault light problem. It only happens at low RPMs, but can happen at the beginning of my ride before its completely warmed up or after a long highway ride. There doesn't seem to be much of a pattern, but it does happen about 4 out of 5 times on the bike. I've taken it to the Suzuki dealer twice and the first time they adjusted the idle and all that changed was that it idles faster. The next trip they replaced all 4 injectors claiming rust, but all that changed was making my bank account smaller. At the same time the guy said he gave me a new map and I could tell a difference in performance (very, very strong), but it will still sputter at low RPMs and the FI light is right back. I can reset it by turning off the ignition, but it will come back. Add ons: Previously it had a Power Commander that started acting up, so it was removed by those same Suzuki guys. It also has a Jardine slip on exhaust and a GPS tracking system with Alarm & back-up battery. In reading these posts I will attempt to get the code using the tips I've read, but does anyone have any suggestions of what may be the cause? Thanks!

these codes should be made a sticky on here....... C00 no fault C11 camshaft position sensor C12 crankshaft position sensor C13 intake air pressure sensor C14 throttle position sensor C15 engine coolant temperature sensor C21 intake air temp sensor C22 atmospheric pressure sensor C23 tip over sensor C24 ignition signal for no.1 cyl. C25 ignition signal for no.2 cyl. C26 ignition signal for no.3 cyl. C27 ignition signal for no.4 cyl. C28 secondary throttle valve actuator C30 secondary throttle control unit C31 gear position signal C32 injector signal for no.1 C33 injector signal for no.2 C34 injector signal for no.3 C35 injector signal for no.4 C41 fuel pump control system C42 ignition switch signal C46 exhaust control valve actuator (1000 only) “C11” (P0340) CMP SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION “C12” (P0335) CKP SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION “C13” (P0105-H/L) IAP SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION “C14” (P0120-H/L) TP SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION “C15” (P0115-H/L) ECT SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION “C21” (P0110-H/L) IAT SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION “C22” (P1450-H/L) AP SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION “C23” (P1651-H/L) TO SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION “C24” (P0351), Coil #1IGNITION SYSTEM MALFUNCTION “C25” (P0352), Coil #2 “C26” (P0353) Coil #3 “C27” (P0354) Coil #4 “C28” (P1655) Secondary TV ACTUATOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION “C29” (P1654-H/L) Secondary TP SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION FI SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS “C31” (P0705) Gear Position SWITCH CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION “C32” (P0201), #1PRIMARY FUEL INJECTOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION “C33” (P0202), #2 “C34” (P0203) #3 “C35” (P0204) #4 “C36” (P1764), # 1 SECONDARY FUEL INJECTOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION “C37” (P1765), #2 “C38” (P1766) #3 “C39” (P1767) #4 “C41” (P0230-H/L) FP RELAY CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION “C42” (P01650) IG SWITCH CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION “C44” (P0130/P0135) HO2 SENSOR (HO2S) CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION (For E-02, 19) “C46” (P1657-H/L or P1658) EXCV ACTUATOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION “C49” (P1656) PAIR CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION “C60” (P0480) COOLING FAN RELAY CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION

could sum one dat owns any k5/k6 GsxR 1000 tell me if they found the plug for the codes n wat color r the wires... i have read the whole topic on this forum n no one specified were they found the plug. pls guys. thanks

ok, im going to clear this up... we all looking for the plug to jump the wires to get the f1 codes. on the K5/K6 1000 its not a 2 wire plug, its a 6 wires plug. the colors r, black/white trace, white/red trace. its locate by the negative pole of the battery, its a white plug n it has a black rubber cover on it. now, i got all this. but i dnt kno how to fix the problem i have on my bike. i have the code C46. wat i have to do, or wat it could b done to fix this???

Check the fuse box on the right side of the bike as you are sitting on it. You have to take off the faring. On my 05 1k there is a black box that says fuses. Eight fuses or located there. I blew one of those when i jumped the wrong wires.

k guys im new to the site and im hoping youll be able to help me out. i just bought a 07 750 from an auction. the bike has a erion pipe on it. The problem is that i have the red light on when i start the bike i did the dealer mode and its code 46 so according tto the code list its EXHAUST CONTROL VALVE ACTUATOR , how do i go about fixing the problem? also where the temperature is it goes f1 then goes to the temp then f1 and then the temp basically it flashes the f1 where the temp is. im more of a car mechanic and dont know much about bikes. hope someone can help out. thanks anyway

I agree this should be a sticky.:thumbup:nice post

this is the FAQ section, all threads here are consolidated and considered stickies..

Sorry :thumbup:

Sorry :thumbup: No biggie :shifty :lol: