canged my fork seals today

it was cold outside today, so I decided to bring every thing I needed to change my forks seals indoors. I didn't take pictures of the whole process, but I took a few that I thought would be helpful...first of all I have to admit I'm not very savy on the computer, and I'm not sure how to post up the pics with a captions above. that being said if I fuck up somewhere I apologize ahead of time. tools I needed were fork tool kit from http://www.traxxion.com/store/detail...roduct_id=CFTK .........everything I needed to change seals was in that kit. In addtion I also needed a seal remover: 32mm deep socket: seal driver: 17 mm open wrench and bearing grease. I started by taking 32 socket and removing the fork cap bolt. I then used the fork spacer compessor as demonstrated in the pic. the only thing I want to mention here is if you look closely you can see by the pic I took the 2 holes in the spacer where the bar ends slide into to hold down the spacer. once the spring is compressed insert the tool between the fork nut and the spacer. you'll will have to have someone do this for you because it will be very difficult to compress the spring and insert the tool at the same time. watch for when you separate the nut from the fork cap bolt the inner tube will slide out...it could drop and get damaged!!.....once the tool is inserted you can remove the the fork cap bolt with 17mm open wrench and 32 socket to hold fork cap bolt. The only points I could add other than the outline in the manual are when I removed the seals I used a seal remover I got from auto parts for about $8.00. I put bearing grease on the lip if the new seals. when you're bleeding the air out with the inner rod holder tool I was told it would be best to let the fork sit for 15 minutes before and after you measure your oil hieght which I did. I didn't find it very difficult to do.I just feel just it would be best if you have an extra set of hands to help and you have to pay attention to detail. also it took me aboyt 2 plus hours....now I going to watch the SuperBowl Attached Images

One more note: the seal driver is 43mm from motion pro.

does the spring compressor tool actually screw into the upper spring mount somewhere or does it just lay on top of it and you push it down from there?

how do you know for sure when your seals are shot?

does the spring compressor tool actually screw into the upper spring mount somewhere or does it just lay on top of it and you push it down from there? if you look at the first picture in the post,the spacer which is directly behind compressor tool has 2 holes in it where the tool screws into to compress the spring.

how do you know for sure when your seals are shot? getting ready to start a a nice day of hitting some twisties. did the pre ride check and found fork oil on my wheel.

and what kind of bike ya go and what year

04 600

where the seals cracked at all? did u use a hevyr oil in them ?

Being that this was the first time I've changed my seals I really didn't look at the seals. Since the one seal was leaking I just tossed them both. I don't know what fork oil originally came with the bike, but I replaced the oil with Maxima High Performance Fluid...7WT

Most gsxr cartridge forks use 7.5 wt fork oil from the factory. The maxima 7wt from traxxion is what I generally use.

thats funny because i thought most used L-01 Suzuki oil from the factory which is 2.5W....you want the lightest oil possible in the forks...i went with Belray 5W back in it

I would be interested in Some more detailed pictures of instruction of this process. I have a leaky RH seal on my '06 1000. Any direction on where to find better instruction with pictures would be great!! Thanks!