HID Install K5 750 Part I

This is a walkthrough of the install on my 2005 750. The Kelvin rating is the temp color of the bulb, 5000k being the purest, whitest light available. As you go up in number the more color that adds but, also losing more light in the process. I chose the 6000k kit. I wanted as much light as possible but with a hint of blue. One advantage to these kits is the fact that not only do they run cooler but require less wattage to run than a standard bulb. The factory bulbs are rated at lower (H7 projector) is 55W and upper (H4 reflector) is 60/55W, lo beam/hi beam. The HID kits are rated at 35W each. The reason that the upper HID doesn’t have 2 ratings is because the hi beam is operated by electro-magnet controlled shield, instead of 2 filaments like in a halogen H4. There are 2 different types of H4 kits available from this company. I purchased the Hi/Lo kit. Even though HID bulbs are made of ignited gas the bulbs life span can be shortened by a constant on/off of the light, when the bike is keyed on then started it cycles the lights during cranking. To fix this, I’ve installed a switch to turn the ballast off during cranking (more on this later) and then you can turn it on after the bike is running. I bought the kits from cqlight.ca. The ballasts are small compared to some, which is quite important when you are limited on space such as in bikes. All the connectors with exception to the mating harness to the bikes headlight harness are weatherpack connectors to ensure there is no moisture intrusion. Another plus on the features of this kit, the H4 kit comes with a harness that will run both ballasts, I did modify this also (more on this later). In order to do this install I soldered and shrink tubed all my connections as to ensure good contact, used an adhesive lined shrink tube to seal all my connections. Butt connectors are not recommended. In order to safely extend the necessary wires you will need a thick jacketed, flexible wire with as high a strand count as possible. For this I used some Phoenix Gold 12 gauge wire that I had already. I used 12g because for any extension you want to go with a bigger gauge to keep resistance to a minimum. You will need to use E=IR to figure your switch rating. E=supply voltage, 12.5v. I=current draw, unknown. R=resistance, since we are switching the relay in the ballast harness, it measures to 80 ohms. 12.5=I x 80. So divide 12.5 by 80 and come to .15625A. I went to Radio Shack and got a SPST mini toggle rated at 125v, 10A. The relay in this harness is a standard 5 pin 30-40A automotive relay. This is how I installed these kits on my bike. If you are not comfortable or knowledgeable in the modifications that I have performed it is recommended that you either do not perform them or have someone that is qualified do them for you. This is simply to show you one means and option to installing these kits and are by no means gospel. You install these kits and in this manner at your own risk in the forewarning of possible damage to you and/or your machine. I hold no liability if you deviate from the install shown here. Remove the fairings, seat and raise the tank, just to make things easier. In removing both fairings also take out the splash shield underneath the housing between both fairings. Remove the shield mounted on the lower tree. Remove the two bolts on the bottom of the gauges and lift them in order to gain access to the H4 bulb. Remove both harnesses from the bulbs and the rubber boots. Take the bulbs out and put them somewhere safe as not to touch the glass portion. The H7 harness in the bike will no longer be used so tape it off and put it up and out of the way. Here is the two kits used on this install. The H7 Low Beam: http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w64/gixxerfool/HID%20Stuff/K7Kit.jpg The H4 High Beam: http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w64/gixxerfool/HID%20Stuff/K4Kit.jpg The H4 bulb: http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w64/gixxerfool/HID%20Stuff/K4Bulb.jpg The small conversion harness in the H7 kit is not needed. The mounting kit in the H4 kit was not used except for the wire ties. Take the left fairing and remove the panel on it. Clean the inside real well. http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w64/gixxerfool/HID%20Stuff/FairingEmpty.jpg Do the same to the back of the ignitors and ballasts and place the Velcro used to secure the equipment. http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w64/gixxerfool/HID%20Stuff/BallastsandIgnitorswithVelcro.jpg After dry fitting everything and keep it all underneath the splash shield peel the backing off the Velcro and apply it to the fairing. Mark all the connectors as not to create any confusion later. http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w64/gixxerfool/HID%20Stuff/FairingwithElectronicsopen.jpg http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w64/gixxerfool/HID%20Stuff/FairingwithElectronicsFaraway.jpg Here it is with the panel in place. http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w64/gixxerfool/HID%20Stuff/FairingwithElectronicsClosed.jpg

With the fairing prepped and ready put the harness into the bike. Since there is already a small harness running along the left side of the bike, use this to secure the new one. Bring the fairing over to estimate where about the input harnesses to the ballasts (these are the two blue males that share the terminal in the relay) to hang. Once you figure the place for these, the rest should fall into place. http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w64/gixxerfool/HID%20Stuff/HarnessinBikeII.jpg This is where some wiring mods come into play. Again you do these modifications at your own risk. Ballast harness ground wire extension. The ballast harnesses have 2 different lengths on the + side, but have matching - with eyelets on the other pin. After deciding where the connectors need to be at, measure the length the - have to be. Use the horn mount as your -. The nut that actually holds the horn to the bracket. Remove the washer and you will eventually place 3 - eyelets there when this is complete. http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w64/gixxerfool/HID%20Stuff/HornGroundwithIndicator.jpg Extend the 2 - by cutting the wires in half, strip, then push the 2 bare conductors together and the twist them. Solder and shrink tube them. Before: http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w64/gixxerfool/HID%20Stuff/BeforeWireExtension.jpg After: http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w64/gixxerfool/HID%20Stuff/AfterWireExtension.jpg Match the 2 + wires together and shorten the longer of the 2 to the same length as the shortest. There is also a fused positive wire that needs to get hooked up to the battery. This also has an eyelet on it. This is the wire that actually powers the ballasts. It runs through the switched portion of the relay. The wire in the pic is the one in full view with the eyelet on it, closest to the fork tube. This is before the extension: http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w64/gixxerfool/HID%20Stuff/HarnessinBike.jpg Then after: http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w64/gixxerfool/HID%20Stuff/RelayPowerWireExtenision.jpg

Run this wire back along the harness behind the fairing to the battery but do not hook it up yet. The next wiring mod is the output harness from the H4 bulb to the relay. The harness has a blue female connector and black and white wire in it. Snip the black wire about an inch behind the connector and shrink tube it. http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w64/gixxerfool/HID%20Stuff/RelayControlHarnessMod.jpg Pull the black out of the sleeve and run it along the bike harness, up the clutch cable and tie it to the harness that leads to the left hand switch pod. This harness runs out of the pod and down the frame behind the headstock and is secured by wire guides. These guides also secure the cables to the frame. Use the leftover sleeve to prevent any rub thru. You can see the switch mount in this pic too. This is covered next. Cable and harness guides on the frame http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w64/gixxerfool/HID%20Stuff/SwitchonbikeII.jpg Using the leftover red wire make a – wire. Run it from the horn mount - as the others back up along the wire you just ran. Leave plenty of length as this is what is going to connect to the switch. You have to supply your own eyelet for this. You have to make your mount for your switch. Using ¼ inch thick aluminum, cut a piece ½ inch by 1 ¼ inch. Drill the proper size holes for the bolt and the switch. Put the metal into a vise and bend it forward with a hammer just enough to make it clear the factory harness. Once your switch mount is done cut, solder and shrink tube your wires to the switch. It doesn’t matter which wires go to which terminal. http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w64/gixxerfool/HID%20Stuff/RelayControlSwitchN.jpg http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w64/gixxerfool/HID%20Stuff/RelayControlSwitchIIN.jpg The finished product http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w64/gixxerfool/HID%20Stuff/HIDMountwswitch.jpg You should “burn” the bulb outside of the housing before you turn them on in the housing. This is due to the residue burning off in your housing and staining your lens. Hook the electronics up and the positive lead at the battery. Secure the bulbs outside the housing and hook them up. Make sure that the bulbs touch nothing. Turned off the ballast switch. Start the bike. Your headlights should be off. Hit your switch and they will fire. http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w64/gixxerfool/HID%20Stuff/BurningthebulbsN.jpg http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w64/gixxerfool/HID%20Stuff/BurningtheBulbsIIN.jpg Let the bike run until it gets to operating temp to ensure that the bulbs get good and hot. Also check that the high beam and flash-to-pass switch work too. Shut everything down and wait for the bulbs to cool. Remove everything and prepare to put the bulbs in the bike. You have two rubber boots that went over the factory bulbs. The H7, put the connectors through the boot and push the grommet until it seats like this: http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w64/gixxerfool/HID%20Stuff/H7GrommetinCapN.jpg These boots are only about $6 to replace. The issue with the H4 is that all the wiring and connectors won’t fit behind this boot, not to mention the magnet. Cut the boot from the center hole to end between the tabs and place around the bulb and secure it to the housing. Start with the left fairing and hook all the connections up. Then the right and the center shields were put back up. After all was done double check that nothing was pinched or rubbed with a full lock-to-lock swing of the bars. Check wire tension so nothing was stressed . Before HID’s with PIAAs http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w64/gixxerfool/HID%20Stuff/BeforewithPIAAs.jpg Then after with the HID’s http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w64/gixxerfool/HID%20Stuff/HIDIIN.jpg

Although it’s hard to tell here’s a before and after on the wall: Before with the lo beams only: http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w64/gixxerfool/HID%20Stuff/HalogensLowBeamN.jpg After HID lo beam only: http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w64/gixxerfool/HID%20Stuff/HIDLowBeamN.jpg Here’s the high beam: Before: http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w64/gixxerfool/HID%20Stuff/HalogensHighBeamN.jpg After: http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w64/gixxerfool/HID%20Stuff/HIDHighBeamN.jpg There was no change in the beam pattern, but there is a significant amount of light added to the street. Although the switch is not the best fix it does the job. I'm in the process of designing an automatic delay timer. This would eliminate the switch and automatically turn the lights on at a predetermined point. When done I will post that mod to. Hope this helps, good luck and enjoy.:thumbup:

Would like to do that...but I have no patients. :)

real nice work, no plastic butt connector crap, mostly solder and shrink tube, very clean, very nice work :thumbup:

great camera pics, close up shots are awesome :thumbup:

Would like to do that...but I have no patients. :) Are you a doctor or something? :hmmm:

nice work... clean. :thumbup:

real nice work, no plastic butt connector crap, mostly solder and shrink tube, very clean, very nice work :thumbup: I worked in electronics for alot of years and learned real quick that butt connectors have there place, just not in my work. If you solder everything it guarantees that it won't be an issue later on. great camera pics, close up shots are awesome :thumbup: Thanks! Of course it took twice as long to do the install making sure I had pics of everything. Are you a doctor or something? :hmmm: No but he plays one on tv.:laughingr nice work... clean. :thumbup: Thanks mang!

I bought a 6000K for my 750, just the low beam (H7) and was wondering do you have to have a switch to turn off the headlight during start-up not to mess anything up, or will the on/off/on flickering of the light while cranking be ok?? Thanks!!!

No switch needed, before I start the bike I let the HID fully charge with the ignition on. Then I start the bike and the light cuts out for a sec and then comes back on fully charged. Once the HID's are fully charged then can be shut on and off without hurting the bulb or ballast. :thumbup:

Cool so just turn the key on till it light up for a few seconds then start with no troubles. Thanks!!! Hopefully the kit I ordered will be easy to hide the ballast!

Yes, just give the light about 5-10 secs and then start her up, the ballast can easily be placed within the right or left faring. Good Luck !

Got everything installed and back together! Man, does it look good! I'm wanting the high beam already to match the color! LOL Only problem is I took it out last night and shined it on the closed garage door to "raise or lower" the angle, but the headlight "angles" or "slants" up to the right?? I hope I don't have to take it apart again, it was a PITA cause my hands are so big. Any suggestions???

Excellent write up. Thanks!

Is there one bulb for the '05? It has both high and low beams. Is the HID that you put in a bi-xenon? Or is it just regular hid, cuz your high and low beams looked the same.

The low beam is one bulb, it's an H7, the high beam has it's own bulb, it's an H4

Thanx for clearing that up. One more question though. You know how our bikes have the bulb in the upper part of the headlight. The "ball" under the bulb, is that considered the low beam. Because i tried looking for the low/high beams. The "ball" is always lit, and it looks like the bulb above it gets brighter when you hit the high beams.

Yes the "ball" ( projector light) is the low beam. The H4 is always on too, but when you hit the high beam switch, it gets brighter

Very clean, nice showing and clean install wish i could say +2

Nice install!

Thanks guys for the replies. Just to update, I have designed a circuit with a time on delay to run the relay in its modified form. Pretty much, after hooking it up, you can turn the bike on, start it and then once its started after about ten seconds or so the relay will turn on the headlights. I have also made provisions for an override switch just in case the circuit should fail for whatever reason, I can hit the switch to activate the relay. It may seem like overkill, but it just adds that personal gixxerfool touch.:arsenal

beautiful install...need mine now

nice write up!....so h4 is high beam and h7 is low beam? i thought it was the other way around? cause i just want the low beam hid...can someone clear that up for me

what is the gel stuff your using at the connectors? Is that Glue?

Just a quick question. If I am seeing your pics correctly, it would appear that you are using speaker wire as the wire extensions for the install, or am I incorrect with what I am seeing? Lois

what is the gel stuff your using at the connectors? Is that Glue? Yes. That is an adhesive lined shrink tubing. As you heat it releases the adhesive to seal the connection. I got this particular stuff from Snap-On. Just a quick question. If I am seeing your pics correctly, it would appear that you are using speaker wire as the wire extensions for the install, or am I incorrect with what I am seeing? Lois Yes. The reason being is that to keep resistance as low as possible you want a wire with a high strand count that has a good conductor like copper. As long as you use a thicker gauge wire, there are no issues.

I did my install towards the end of the summer and everything works great. The question I have is can I mount these ballasts in the rear of the bike rather than in the side of the front plastics. My thinking behind this would be if I want to take my plastics off and do some maintenance work I wouldn't have to go through the trouble of disconnecting the cables if the ballasts were mounted in the rear of the bike. I know there will have to be some wire cutting and things like that and I don't know if changing the length of the cables will result in a misfire of the bulbs when they are turned on. Anyone have any ideas?

Hey Gixxerfool... Looks like a stellar job dude. I have a couple of questions for ya. 1 Does the Relay replace the stock one thats used in the stock light? 2 are you using the second switch in the picture for your high beams, and if so are you still able to use the Pass function. And finally 3 do have the Bi-Zenon or just a regular bulb with a high and low beam? any help on this would gratly appreciated.

Hey Gixxerfool... Looks like a stellar job dude. I have a couple of questions for ya. 1 Does the Relay replace the stock one thats used in the stock light? 2 are you using the second switch in the picture for your high beams, and if so are you still able to use the Pass function. And finally 3 do have the Bi-Zenon or just a regular bulb with a high and low beam? any help on this would gratly appreciated. 1. No. This is the relay that controls the ballasts. It is integrated into the ballast harness and is completely independent of the headlight relay, which is why I chose to modify it as such. 2. If you are referring to the switch I added then no. I used that to turn the lights on after the bike was running for two reasons. One, so it wouldn't put an unnecessary drain on my battery and two, so I could turn them on after the bike was running in order to maximize the life of HID's. I have since changed this to eliminate the need for doing that. I have added a module that turns them on automatically after its running. 3. Yes it is a bi xenon kit. Hope this helps.

Yes... this is helping very much. Now a few more questions for you. From reading I guess I have a bi-zenon but idk. One bulb says hi/lo, so??? and also how are you controling the high an low beam aspect. Basically how do you initiate the change between high and low beam. and can you use the pass function? Much appreciated! 1. No. This is the relay that controls the ballasts. It is integrated into the ballast harness and is completely independent of the headlight relay, which is why I chose to modify it as such. 2. If you are referring to the switch I added then no. I used that to turn the lights on after the bike was running for two reasons. One, so it wouldn't put an unnecessary drain on my battery and two, so I could turn them on after the bike was running in order to maximize the life of HID's. I have since changed this to eliminate the need for doing that. I have added a module that turns them on automatically after its running. 3. Yes it is a bi xenon kit. Hope this helps.

Yes... this is helping very much. Now a few more questions for you. From reading I guess I have a bi-zenon but idk. One bulb says hi/lo, so??? and also how are you controling the high an low beam aspect. Basically how do you initiate the change between high and low beam. and can you use the pass function? Much appreciated! My bulb has a little shield that is electronically controlled. Its integrated into the harness. Once you plug it into the factory harness, the high beam and pass to flash works as normal.

My bulb has a little shield that is electronically controlled. Its integrated into the harness. Once you plug it into the factory harness, the high beam and pass to flash works as normal. Wow Bro I think You just answered My biggest question. Do I return My kit and Get the one you Got... I think I might Have to. One last Question to confirm this. On the area of the harness that plugged into the stock Plug were there 2 connectors or 3 to correspond with the existing 3 on the stock. and In case I didn't mention... 05 gsxr 750 here too. lol Also can you provide the Model of the Kit that you Acquired, and then I'l' STFU lol.

just give me a day to put together the info for you.

just give me a day to put together the info for you. Very Much Appreciated Bro.

just give me a day to put together the info for you. Any luck with List bro? Ima getin anxious lol... I kinda have a possible idea as to which kit it was but I'd like confirmation from you. Thanks.

Any luck with List bro? Ima getin anxious lol... I kinda have a possible idea as to which kit it was but I'd like confirmation from you. Thanks. I apologize the last few days went haywire on me. Here is the exact kit I bought, hope this helps. Anymore questions, just ask: http://www.cqlight.ca/product_info.php?products_id=90 IF you look at the 2nd pic posted you can see the connector for the factory harness. 3 pins. Plug and play is a beautiful thing.

I apologize the last few days went haywire on me. Here is the exact kit I bought, hope this helps. Anymore questions, just ask: http://www.cqlight.ca/product_info.php?products_id=90 IF you look at the 2nd pic posted you can see the connector for the factory harness. 3 pins. Plug and play is a beautiful thing. Dude Thanks Bro... That link looks like it is a one ballast/one bulb kit. A few Pics down you have 2 Ballasts mounted, also looks like the final few pics has both bulbs upgraded. Just need some final Clarification on if its a 1 or 2 ballast/bulb system, cause Im lookin to upgrade both. I appreciate this Greatly.

ok no matter what its always one ballast/ignitor per bulb. the first two pics are of the individual bulb kits, h4 and h7.

ok no matter what its always one ballast/ignitor per bulb. the first two pics are of the individual bulb kits, h4 and h7. Got ya. So you had to get 1 H4 kit which is 149.99 and 1 H7 kit which looks to be $89.99, in order to be able to do both the upper and lower bulb right. They didnt both come in one kit it sounds like. H4: http://www.cqlight.ca/product_info.php?cPath=69_71&products_id=90 H7: http://www.cqlight.ca/product_info.php?cPath=32_46&products_id=73

Got ya. So you had to get 1 H4 kit which is 149.99 and 1 H7 kit which looks to be $89.99, in order to be able to do both the upper and lower bulb right. They didnt both come in one kit it sounds like. H4: http://www.cqlight.ca/product_info.php?cPath=69_71&products_id=90 H7: http://www.cqlight.ca/product_info.php?cPath=32_46&products_id=73 if you email them they will usually mix and match a kit and sell it at the car kit price. but that was a while ago.

if you email them they will usually mix and match a kit and sell it at the car kit price. but that was a while ago. Awesome bro... You have been a huge Help... I'll post up some pics after the project. this will be my most labor intensive one yet, cause Im also modding the entire head light too.

Well here is a taste of what I did... I may be re modding the top Projector due to the inadequacy of the light focusing. Before: http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s164/wraithblade993/0323081157a.jpg After: http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s164/wraithblade993/p_00058.jpg

looks excellent. what did you use for the top projector?

looks excellent. what did you use for the top projector? Well Essentially I Procured another 05 Gixxer 750 Head light and chopped out the Bottom Projector, and mounted it with JB Stick. However its not focusing the light as it should with the H4. I Hooked up with a E46 Zenon Projector from ebay(Basically one made for Zenon also it came off an BMW M3 lol). I'm thinkin bout switchin the 2 around to get the desired outcome. The Bottom one works beautifully with the H7.

Finally Complete http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s164/wraithblade993/DSC07248.jpg

Finally Complete http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s164/wraithblade993/DSC07248.jpg Hows it work?!?!?!?!?!?!?! I am looking at a Caddy DTS projector since it has the cut line in it. Still researching what I should use for the best results. Looks great man.

Hows it work?!?!?!?!?!?!?! I am looking at a Caddy DTS projector since it has the cut line in it. Still researching what I should use for the best results. Looks great man. Oh sorry lol... been having Fun With it. All I can Say is FUCKKKKKK! Bright as shit. I can see a flea on a deers ass on back Roads. on the gixxer.com forum MorphiasX did a similar mod, except he used an acura tsx projector as wel as a e46.

Damn looks nice!