From a ticking sound to a knock on a 06 750

The complete story is: late last year I filled my crankcase with oil for winter storage. I drain and refilled to the proper level the next spring. I forgot to clear the cylinders and the dealership had to do it for me. From that point on I could feel a very slight knock (or tick)on my right peg. Otherwise the bike ran perfectly normal. Today I do as I always do, let the bike warm up 100 before I pull-off, and stay below 6000 rpm until 150 degrees. Except today the sound gets louder. By the time I hit the mountains and higher rpms, the knock can't be ignored and there is a oil smell. I take very easy going back home. It has nothing to do with the chain. and the knock is goes at the same of acceleration rate as the rpms. The oil light and the FI light blink together. I check for oil leaks and level. There is oil in it, and when parked for 15 mins there was no oil on the ground. I will check the shop manual but sound advice is appreciated.

why would you fill the crankcase with oil for winter storage? fuel stabilizer, remove your battery, and anti-freeze work perfectly fine without the added oil to seep past your piston rings and into places it doesnt belong.

It says that in the 2006 GSX-R 750 Owner's Manual. The dealership says that Suzuki should not have put it in. Looking back that was to extreme for this area and time of storage. But the fault was me not clearing the cylinders.

learn something new everyday. i didnt know the manual actually tells you to do that to your bike. it cant be good for the motor at all.

What do you mean clear the cylinders? I hope you didn't loose a rod bearing.

When you say you forgot to clear the cylinders, do you mean that you tried to start it with the cylinders full of oil? As Gon2fast suggested - you may have caused a hydraulic lock in one, (or more) of the cylinders and either bent a con-rod or damaged your crank, pistons, head, etc. I've seen jet ski engines spit rods out the side of the cylinder or crankcase after getting filled with water. Usually someone runs the ski whilst it's upside down, fills the engine bay and engine with water and swims it to shore. Genius then hits the starter button and WHACK! Instant hydraulic lock and mega dollar repair bill. I hope for your benefit that this is not the case with your bike. I'd be doing a compression test on each of the cylinders for starters - if you don't want to tear it down and have a look at the crank. Hopefully, you just fouled a spark plug or something simple like that...

Well Hydraulic Lock... yes? But the time from when the dealership cleared the cylinders to now has been about 5 months. So I thought it had NO lasting damage. It sounds like something is "freewheeling" inside the engine when I revved up the engine out of gear....Dear God.

Sounds pretty bad man. You don't have to snap a rod from hydrolock to cause damage... just the added strain on the conrod/wristpin bearings from that initial 'hit' of compression with the fluid in there can cause highly accelerated bearing wear which would explain why you didn't initially have big damage but now 5 months down the road, things are showing up. The Oil/FI light are telling you that you have "less than sufficient" oil pressure. This can be caused by a few things.. 1: No Oil. 2: Bad Oil Pump 3: Oil Starvation due to a clogged filter. I'm going to guess it's possibly #3 due to particulates of bearing clogging the filter. Did you happen to notice the temp gauge while this was going on?

Sounds pretty bad man. You don't have to snap a rod from hydrolock to cause damage... just the added strain on the conrod/wristpin bearings from that initial 'hit' of compression with the fluid in there can cause highly accelerated bearing wear which would explain why you didn't initially have big damage but now 5 months down the road, things are showing up. The Oil/FI light are telling you that you have "less than sufficient" oil pressure. This can be caused by a few things.. 1: No Oil. 2: Bad Oil Pump 3: Oil Starvation due to a clogged filter. I'm going to guess it's possibly #3 due to particulates of bearing clogging the filter. Did you happen to notice the temp gauge while this was going on? There is Oil it the sight glass. The Water temp did seems to go high near the "end".

although it sounds like the damage is done, If you have the time, try doing an oil and filter change to see if your oil pressure comes back up. Don't run it long, just 30 seconds to see if the oil light goes off. This is solely to satisfy my curiosity about why your oil light is on, even though you 'have' oil in the bike. I'm really sorry to hear about this type of damage, especially since it wasn't due to driving like an idiot or anything... you were doing everything the right way and just overlooked a step when taking it out of winterization... that really sucks... For those that are GOING to winterize your bikes this year, I HIGHLY recommend putting some sort of note on the bike saying, "DON'T START UNTIL YOU CLEAR THE CYLINDERS!!!" as a reminder.. it's really easy to forget...