First tune up expectations!!

Hey guys, my bike just reached the 600+ miles and I gotta make an appointment with the dealer for first tune up/oil change. But I wanted to ask you guy, as you definitely have more knowledge then me on this, (This is gonna run me over $200 bucks being is at the dealer, and I have to do it cause of warranty) so what should I expect them to do and how can I check to make sure they did it?

are you sure the warranty states that it must be done at the dealer or the warranty will be void, double check if your not sure? i wouldnt dare let a dealership touch my bike unless it was absolutley something i couldnt do myself. to date they have never touched my bike thankfully :thumbup:

Thats the problem...What they WILL do and what they SHOULD. They should do the oil, adjust/lube your chain and torque all your important bolts/components. But every place is different so who knows. I'm with JP tho...Never took any bike to them.

There's always been a lot of speculation about having to have the dealer do the first service or the warranty is void. I don't believe this is the case. Do it yourself, and save some dough.

I think that I posted this same question almost word for word. I also asked around locally and what I decided to do was to Do IT MYSELF. I even had a friend call the dealership and they said that it wouldn't void the warranty as long as I kept the reciepts for any maintenance that I did myself.

Yes almost all States have statutes that prohibit the requirement of dealer performed maintenance as a condition of warranty. If you want to know for sure, simply read the fine print in your warranty - that's a legal contract. I myself had the dealer do the first maintenance, but the only reason I did was because I thought I was getting a valve adjustment out of the deal, but I didn't (that isn't a part of initial service for gsxr's) so I felt kind of ripped off. On the other hand, I also had BMW do the first initial service on the RT because a valve adjustment and a final drive fluid replacement was an initial service item, and both are time intensive procedures, so that was worth it. I'm doing my own oil, filter and plug changes on it though. The bottom line is all they do is change the oil and filter, adjust and lube the chain, and just do a bunch of inspection and bolt re-torques.

thx for the reply guys, ill be reading the warranty later when i get home to see if it says at the dealer or not.

In the warranty contract it doesn't state that my first oil change has to be there, I looked it over like 10 times. So I guess I don't have to take it to the dealer..am still going to verify with the dealer in case and ask them to show me where it states it just in case they say I do....If i can do it myself ill read up on how to do it!

Oil change, torque nuts and bolts, adjust and lube chain, and lube pivot points. I didn't want to pay $200 for somebody else to do something I can do myself. IF they even do it all. I did my first service on my k8 1000 today. Here's what I bought to do this FIRST (not last) service. Filter 11.19 Pit Bull rear stand 127.99 Spools 12.79 Mobil1 4t 10-40 9.00 (X4) Maxima chain wax 7.19 Grand total is 205.93 Yes, I spent as much on all this as I would have spent on the service, but at least I got a stand out of it. Oh, and that bottle of chain wax will last awhile. The only tools you might not already have to perform your "Genuine" first service is a torque wrench, and a filter wrench. Everything else in under your rear seat! Sorry if my pricing seems off. I get 20% off at cycle gear. For all of you who took the MSF course, FLASH YOUR RED CARD! You'll get a nice 20% off also. -HH

I just spoke with the dealer, they said that it is not in the contract...but that they recomend I do it there or at a certified service center to have proof of service in case the warranty does not want to believe that I did it myself..so should I record it on video?...how sure are they that the mechanic working there is certified...most places have 1 certified mechanic and all the helpers are the ones doing the jobs. as for the items that where posted thx...I can see what i gotta buy now....I don't think ill get the pitbull stand (maybe)...and torque wrench is not that much, thats if i dont have one laying around in my tool shed.

I HIGHLY recommend the pitbull stand. Especially with a bike as heavy as yours. It has much more leverage than the trackside or "bike stand" brands. You get what you pay for.

I thought they did a valve clearance check as well? Or at least they're supposed to, right?

not on the first service

First recommened valve inspection is usually around 15-18k miles for our gsxrs. I do sportbike repair and maintenance (licensed MC mechanic) on the side and my tuneups consist of plugs, oil/filter change, tb/carb sync, and lube/adjust drivechain. I charge $125+parts and i'm usually booked all summer long. Sometimes I make more doing that than I do at my full time job.:lol: If all they are doing is an oil change and chain adjustment for $200, ask if that includes a blow job?:headshake

If all they are doing is an oil change and chain adjustment for $200, ask if that includes a blow job?:headshake if hooters women starts workin on bikes i might consider that option :hmmm:

if hooters women starts workin on bikes i might consider that option :hmmm: Really. The visual of that type of service from some fat, greasy bike mechanic dude has me gagging.

:laughingr Maybe I should have rephrased that.:lol:

anyone know where to buy mobil 1 4t 10w-40? maybe auto parts stores. local bike shops? id go to a bike shop but they are closed for the day.

Murrays. $9 a quart:thumbup:

Cycle center! If you have your msf card, you get 20% off!!!

Cycle center! If you have your msf card, you get 20% off!!! Are u on their payroll???? :rofl:

Oil change, torque nuts and bolts, adjust and lube chain, and lube pivot points. I didn't want to pay $200 for somebody else to do something I can do myself. IF they even do it all. I did my first service on my k8 1000 today. Here's what I bought to do this FIRST (not last) service. Filter 11.19 Pit Bull rear stand 127.99 Spools 12.79 Mobil1 4t 10-40 9.00 (X4) Maxima chain wax 7.19 Grand total is 205.93 Yes, I spent as much on all this as I would have spent on the service, but at least I got a stand out of it. Oh, and that bottle of chain wax will last awhile. The only tools you might not already have to perform your "Genuine" first service is a torque wrench, and a filter wrench. Everything else in under your rear seat! Sorry if my pricing seems off. I get 20% off at cycle gear. For all of you who took the MSF course, FLASH YOUR RED CARD! You'll get a nice 20% off also. -HH Are u on their payroll??

Forgot to edit my last post.... I meant at cycle gear. No, I'm not on their payroll. I'll even scan my reciept for you guys. :) I also recieved 20% off my leathers and gloves the weekend before I did my first service too. :lol:

i read in an old thread that you shouldnt use full synthetic oil until you have a couple thousand mile on the bike. is this true? i want to change my oil this weekend and i need to know if i should buy mobil1 4t 10w-40 or not.

i read in an old thread that you shouldnt use full synthetic oil until you have a couple thousand mile on the bike. is this true? i want to change my oil this weekend and i need to know if i should buy mobil1 4t 10w-40 or not. Just did 1st service on my k8 1000 with mobil1 4t 10w-40. There is a NIGHT and DAY difference of how smooth the bike runs now. There will be no difference if you use synthetic or not after the first service, since the original oil and filter carry most the extra metal shavings off the motor. Sorry kids, scanner is broken...

so i changed my oil on saturday and put in the mobil1. i can barely feel it shift, its so smooth. it may be $9.50 a quart but its worth it. :thumbup:

Just did 1st service on my k8 1000 with mobil1 4t 10w-40. There is a NIGHT and DAY difference of how smooth the bike runs now. There will be no difference if you use synthetic or not after the first service, since the original oil and filter carry most the extra metal shavings off the motor. Sorry kids, scanner is broken... The only thing that you are circumventing by using a synthetic oil on the first oil change is some lapping action of the cylinder and cam surfaces, which isn't that big of a deal on most modern engines. Modern sportbike engines tend to have pretty good oil control right out of the factory, but there are some engines, such as the BMW boxer engines, that require a run in period of up to 20,000 miles in order to get full oil control. An early switch to synthetic may never allow those engines to achieve full oil control since the wear process stops, for all intents and purposes. Let me put it this way - you won't HURT your engine either way.

Sorry if my pricing seems off. I get 20% off at cycle gear. For all of you who took the MSF course, FLASH YOUR RED CARD! You'll get a nice 20% off also. -HH Seriously? Damnit, and I just dropped like $500 last month for stands, battery tenders, oil, etc.

I attempted my 600 mile service last night and got kinda stuck on checking all the chassis bolt torques. How does a guy go about checking some of those? For example the steering stem lock nut (the one under the clamp)? I don't have a tool for that and can't imagine how a tool for that would hook up to a torque wrench. I guess I could get most the others if I bought some allen head sockets but some seem really hard to access with a torque wrench. Anyone completed the torque checks with "typical" tools? I have a 2007 600.

Honestly, I never go at the bolts with a torque wrench. I just use a standard socket and give a light tug to make sure they haven't worked loose. If they haven't, they are still torqued correctly from the factory. If they have, then you need to re-torque them. It's fairly rare to find a loose bolt though.

Honestly, I never go at the bolts with a torque wrench. I just use a standard socket and give a light tug to make sure they haven't worked loose. If they haven't, they are still torqued correctly from the factory. If they have, then you need to re-torque them. It's fairly rare to find a loose bolt though. Yeah I was starting to lean that way. Thanks for the input. I'll still need to buy the steering stem tool but I'll just check that it's tight rather than try to get a specific torque on it.

I work at a delear, we charge $160 for first service. That includes the following which you can do yourself. 1. Check all bolts and nuts over for torque. 2. Filter and oil change 3. Adjust and lube chain 4.Adjust clutch cable 5.Check over air pressure 6.Check shock and dampers. The dealer telling you they have to do it for it to be covered under warranty is just another way to get more money out of you.

yeah best way to do it is change the oil and things yourself.i saved about $40 by just changing my own oil.as far as valve adjustments the dealer lied to me.they said it needed done about 2k miles but the manual says inspect at 11k.dealers will tell you more than what actually needs done and is recommended by suzuki.

Dealer will rip you off! I did my own oil change & saved atleast $60

I just had my first service done on my k8 gsxr 750, The Dealer, checked absoultely everything. tire pressure, tread, brake pads, torque all nuts and bolts adjust everything, obviously an oil change and they detailed the bike quite nicely. I am sure I could have done all of this myself, but it would have taken me a bit of time. and for $99 CDN I figured i would just let them deal with it. I also trust the shop alot because they have a very good rep in the small town that I live in, and have been able to sell me everything I have inquired about for alot less than the biggest dealer in Calgary AB.