justink750
11-10-2008, 06:50 AM
Do you change your oil before you put it up for storage or do you wait until spring to do so?
Change oil before or after winterjustink750 11-10-2008, 06:50 AM Do you change your oil before you put it up for storage or do you wait until spring to do so? jethead 11-10-2008, 07:30 AM If you're riding in the winter I'd do both.
If not wait till spring.
I ride year round here in south eastern Virginia, so I just change the oil with temps in mind when the odometer calls for it. jethead 11-10-2008, 07:44 AM Just noticed you're in Buffalo....
So based on that I'm assuming you're not riding this winter.
Having said that I'm also assuming you'll at least be starting the bike and letting it come up to temp weekly or monthly while in storage.
Many oil manufacturers recommend changing oil on a time basis as well as mileage. Depending on where you are now in mileage and time the oil has been in your crankcase, it's your call.
I'd rather err on the side of caution.
Oil is cheap. Engines are not. justink750 11-10-2008, 02:29 PM I am storing it for winter and it will not be started regularly. I will take out the battery, place the bike on stands, and wash and wax and cover for winter. I need to know if it is better to change oil before or after winter in that situation. dnyc 11-10-2008, 06:04 PM change the oil before the winter. Jethead...I definetly would not be starting my bike and bringing it up to temp while in storage. You would be better served taking the bike out for nice run on a warm day during the winter. Mister Tee 11-11-2008, 07:26 AM I would recommend changing the oil before putting it in to long term storage. Ideally, you should just let it sit with a dry sump so you can start out with fresh oil in the Spring, but then again if you forget to put oil in it before you start it, your engine is toast. I would NOT recommend starting it periodically during the Winter period unless you let it get to operating temperature AND ride it for at least a half hour afterwards. The condensation that accumulates in your oil from short runs is more damaging than just letting the engine sit. blackGixxer 11-11-2008, 09:28 AM The owners manual says to change the oil and refill with fresh oil all the way to the filler hole. I'll be doing that pretty soon. As well as filling the gas tank up and adding fuel stabilizer.
The manual also says to put 1 tablespoon of oil in each spark plug hole, reinstall plugs and crank over a few times. Any one do that part of long storage procedures? Mister Tee 11-11-2008, 11:38 AM The owners manual says to change the oil and refill with fresh oil all the way to the filler hole. I'll be doing that pretty soon. As well as filling the gas tank up and adding fuel stabilizer.
The manual also says to put 1 tablespoon of oil in each spark plug hole, reinstall plugs and crank over a few times. Any one do that part of long storage procedures?
True. Personally, I would prefer to use fogging oil and be done with it. To do that, one pulls the plugs, and shoots fogging oil in each of the cylinders, and in the oil fill on an empty motor, and don't rotate anything. That said, I wouldn't do that sort of special conditioning unless it will sit for six months or more. 2004gsxr1000 11-11-2008, 03:08 PM i usually change the oil before it gets put up for winter and also completely fill the crank case. if for some reason it sits for over 3 months .. i drain it and refill it, then when its time to bring it out for spring i change it again, run it up to temp and a good ride, then change it again.. and from there i go back to my 1000 mile or 3 month which ever comes first changes. yakitori 12-04-2008, 05:09 PM i usually change the oil before it gets put up for winter and also completely fill the crank case. if for some reason it sits for over 3 months .. i drain it and refill it, then when its time to bring it out for spring i change it again, run it up to temp and a good ride, then change it again.. and from there i go back to my 1000 mile or 3 month which ever comes first changes.
you change your oil every 1000 miles? geez...if I did that...that is ALL i would ever be doing. yakitori 12-06-2008, 05:46 AM not to highjack a thread or anything, but Im shipping my bike to sapporo japan in feb. Its freezing during that time over there. It takes 6-8 weeks transport. It doesnt need to be started any time during transport so I was going to change the oil and fill it to the fill hole and fill the spark plug holes too. Then I was going to fill the tank with Gas, HOWEVER, the shipping company says I have to leave my tank less than half full.
What would be best, leave it half full w/ stabilizer or leave it empty?
I was thinking about putting a little in there with stabilizer, and when I get to japan, shake my tank and siphon out the old gas in there for transport. Then fill it up and add stabilizer.
Any help is appreciated. Mister Tee 12-06-2008, 10:00 AM For shipping, I would personally leave the fluids (gas and oil) empty. Filling the engine full of oil on a rocking boat is very likely to create a big mess. hsart 12-06-2008, 11:32 AM What is this concept of which you speak... WINTER storage???:cool:
We're not too familiar with that down here in Florida, unless you mean when we put away the pool floats for a couple months..:thumbup: yakitori 12-07-2008, 07:58 PM For shipping, I would personally leave the fluids (gas and oil) empty. Filling the engine full of oil on a rocking boat is very likely to create a big mess.
Thank you! I was thinking of not putting any gasoline in it for sure. What issue would it create by filling with oil though? I think its going to be on a crate on a pretty large ship, so I dont think its going to be an extremely bumpy ride. It will be transported with cars and things. Mister Tee 12-08-2008, 11:46 AM Thank you! I was thinking of not putting any gasoline in it for sure. What issue would it create by filling with oil though? I think its going to be on a crate on a pretty large ship, so I dont think its going to be an extremely bumpy ride. It will be transported with cars and things.
It's not so much the bumping and rocking, but the loading and unloading where it might end up at an odd angle and dump oil through the breather. Granted, it would probaby take a pretty extreme angle to do that, but you never know. justf150 12-11-2008, 11:16 AM Just noticed you're in Buffalo....
So based on that I'm assuming you're not riding this winter.
Having said that I'm also assuming you'll at least be starting the bike and letting it come up to temp weekly or monthly while in storage.
Many oil manufacturers recommend changing oil on a time basis as well as mileage. Depending on where you are now in mileage and time the oil has been in your crankcase, it's your call.
I'd rather err on the side of caution.
Oil is cheap. Engines are not.
+++++++1:clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::bowdown: PacificGSXR1000 12-11-2008, 11:37 PM Haven't done a poll here but you have to make both answers pickable. Both is the correct answer.
You have to get the old stuff off the cyclinder walls and out of the crank and case since its just breaking down even further during storage with the bad bad bad stuff in it that rotts hardening on the walls and valve stems and eveywhere else it cares to. Then after storage dump that stuff that kept it happy to have something in there close to new to seep up the walls and around to prevent rust and such since even semi new it did its molecular F' up sitting around rotting in open air. Then after running the new oil around that flushed the crank and seals out you can change it again. 3 changes not just 2. Of course I like power and want to keep my bike in it. You have to make the stuff to have it and fooling around with oil going bad lets the performance slip away fouling the engine. Kind of like the difference between running organic oil and synthetic. Synthetic will be slippery enough to have your bike idling higher. let the old oil cake rubbing areas and that negative for easy of engine performance. You wont think much of the diffeence after adjusting the idle up but its the engine fighting the wear and tear going on.
Maybe not a gear freak but an oil freak for sure.
Oh Yah I don't have to park my bike up for winter but deployments are worse than winter. I suggest changing before leaving the bike and running it around a while. Then after it sits around change the oil and filter to run it around. We all see guys smoking engines once in a while. It's not the way you want a power house engine to run. GSXR600K1 12-14-2008, 01:10 PM to be honest id do it before and than after also. so the oil dopesnt just sit in there. Gixx/2broscarb 12-15-2008, 06:47 PM I just changed mine to Amsoil full syn. 100miles before I put it up for the winter do you guys think it would be alright to run it this spring for a while before changing it cus that oil isnt cheap!!! Mister Tee 12-15-2008, 08:08 PM I just changed mine to Amsoil full syn. 100miles before I put it up for the winter do you guys think it would be alright to run it this spring for a while before changing it cus that oil isnt cheap!!!
You will be fine. JRK5892 12-18-2008, 03:07 PM after... before is a waste of money... durring the winter the changes in temp will create moisture on the inside of the motor cases... that water will eventually seperate from the oil and need to be removed (oil change) so just wait till next season change it out... also if it gets cold where your at, put carpet down to keep the moisure from rising out of the concrete, and then some common charcole (like the kind you use in a grill) under your bike (i put mine on a plate on my seat when it is covered) this will absorb any extra moisture in the air... do not forget stabil... i have 6 bikes... all of which are on a tender and get this treatment... have for years... no issues. airfuel 12-18-2008, 05:26 PM Common wisdom has always been to change oil before storage.
Reason is simple: Old oil is acidic and full of other nasty crap.
This acidic nasty crap will eat away at all the expensive parts like bearing surfaces and gears.
As far as moisture build up in the oil pan: This is the main reason NOT to start your bike during the winter. This just builds up moisture.
Any other moisture from just sitting will be burned off during that first good ride you do in the spring. NOT just to the store for new tanktops and flip flops!! Gowen 01-15-2009, 10:34 PM If you use a mineral based oil, change the oil in the spring. During cold temperatures parafin wax is formed in mineral based oils that will increase the viscosity of the oil. The same applies to new oil in it's containers if stored in a cold garage.
Parafin wax does not form in the cold with synthetic oils so change it when due. bmf 01-17-2009, 06:32 PM whichever you want. FDgsxr 02-09-2009, 08:31 PM What is this concept of which you speak... WINTER storage???:cool:
We're not too familiar with that down here in Florida, unless you mean when we put away the pool floats for a couple months..:thumbup:
:twofinger bastards.... lol... bbqb4racin 02-09-2009, 08:51 PM :twofinger bastards.... lol...
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