Oil and Filter??

I was wondering what type of oil and filters you guys recommend for my 2004 gsxr 600 that doesn't break my bank? I don't mind paying a little bit more I just see quarts for like $15 and thinking I just use my bike as a way to get to work.

You can use Catrol R4 Superbike (I'm not certain, but the name may have changed recently...), which is a full synthetic for the bargain price of $8 per quart. I used it in my 05. As for the filter, I usually use a K&N filter for the oil. It works well enough. Personally, I use Repsol fully synthetic. It made a huge difference in terms of shifting effort on my R6. Unfortunately, both of my GSXRs got stolen before I could try Repsol in them.

Whatever you do leave fram oil filters alone. Just about killed me 2 weeks ago. the rubber gasket failed at about 100 MPH on the road. Can you say slip and slide? What about ass puckering momment. Lost all my oil all while tryin to avoid 2 vehicles and stop sign.

Any good quality oil will work for you and if you want to use synthetic look at Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 at Autozone for $9.49 and most likely there are lower prices around and use the OEM or K&N filter.

I've been using the stock filter and amsoil in my bike. Never had problems. :thumbup:

Moble 1 oil and Suzuki oil filter. I change both every 6,000 miles.:thumbup:

i use oem suzuki oil filters and regular synthetic motor oil

You can use Catrol R4 Superbike (I'm not certain, but the name may have changed recently...), which is a full synthetic for the bargain price of $8 per quart. I used it in my 05. As for the filter, I usually use a K&N filter for the oil. It works well enough. Personally, I use Repsol fully synthetic. It made a huge difference in terms of shifting effort on my R6. Unfortunately, both of my GSXRs got stolen before I could try Repsol in them. stolen that sucks might wanna invest in an alarm

oem stock oil and filter will work perfectly fine for you, and wont break the bank.

Stock filter and Rotella synthetic from walmart :cool:

Stock filter and amsoil synthetic

All of you guys who are using synthetic oil are buying synthetic for motorcycles right? Cause from what I understand if you use regular synthetic oil it will not work with our wet clutch system, meaning the regular oil will cause the clutch to slip. If you want to keep the price low use a oem filter and oem oil. Still not cheap but will probably be the best option and won't cause problems.

I don't know what your talking about, its worked just fine for me.

I was talkin about the people who are using walmart synthetic and regular automotive synthetic. There are other threads that are concerning clutch slipping and usually the person has put in regular oil instead of oil that is made for motorcycles with wet clutches.

My bad.

fram filters work fine for me. never had any problems with them like described above. Ive used them on all of my vehicles, and my bike. Ive put over 20k miles on 2 bikes and change oil every 2500. I go ahead and change the filter with each oil change. As for oil....I had been using Silkolene semi-synthetic with good results. Just recently with my last oil change, which I did yesterday evening. I used Castrol motorcycle semi-synthetic for like 5 bucks a quart....so it worked out nicely.

I was talkin about the people who are using walmart synthetic and regular automotive synthetic. There are other threads that are concerning clutch slipping and usually the person has put in regular oil instead of oil that is made for motorcycles with wet clutches. I don't know about on my new gsxr (changing the oil right now), but on my old r6 the wallyworld stuff worked great. It doesn't have the friction modifiers that are the cause of people's problems with wet clutches. Rotella synthetic (made by shell btw) at walmart is rated for motorcycles I believe, it's just not listed on the package. I've heard the argument of slippage, but never a first hand account of it with this cheap (and great) oil. By all means pay over twice as much as me if it gives you a sound mind.

Moble 1 oil and Suzuki oil filter. I change both every 6,000 miles.:thumbup: Have you verified extended drain intervals with oil analysis ? All of you guys who are using synthetic oil are buying synthetic for motorcycles right? Cause from what I understand if you use regular synthetic oil it will not work with our wet clutch system, meaning the regular oil will cause the clutch to slip. If you want to keep the price low use a oem filter and oem oil. Still not cheap but will probably be the best option and won't cause problems. There are instances where some oils will cause a clutch to slip whether it be a synthetic, semi-synthetic, faux synthetic or petroleum oil. Regardless of Brand, Synthetic or petroleum, I always recommend a MotorCycle Specific (YES Virginia, there is a difference) with a JASO Rating of MA, better yet, MA 2, but Never MB By all means pay over twice as much as me if it gives you a sound mind. Not only Peace of Mind.... More HP, Better fuel mileage, cooler oil temps, fewer false neutrals, easier to find neutrals and less wear. And, if using AMSOIL and the AMSOIL EA Series filter, Extended drain intervals. I am running 10,000 mile oil changes, verified by Analysis, so I only have to change oil and filter 2-3 times per year. With running Pipes and a Race Tuner, I would never see that mileage or anywhere close on Petroleum oil. Doc

i just get the filter and oil from the dealer

Not only Peace of Mind.... More HP, Better fuel mileage, cooler oil temps, fewer false neutrals, easier to find neutrals and less wear... +1 Doc, Where'd you do your analysis?

+1 Doc, Where'd you do your analysis? Oil Analyzers Inc.... $22.55 Doc

K&P oil filters! By far, check them out at http://www.kandpengineering.com/ Will take good care of you! Synthetic oil is the way to go. Will meet or beat any advertised price. Diane Pero owner http://www.peromotorsports.com 303.988.2629

K&P oil filters! By far, check them out at http://www.kandpengineering.com/ Will take good care of you! Synthetic oil is the way to go. Will meet or beat any advertised price. Diane Pero owner http://www.peromotorsports.com 303.988.2629 For Racing applications, I don't have a problem with either that or the Scott's filter. Correct me if I am wrong here, I know the Scott's is a 35 Micron Filter and I believe the K&P is also. If someone is the type of person that is going to keep a street bike for a long period, like I do, Spin-On filters are available down to 15 Micron Absolute and I can do 10 years of changes for the price of that filter. Also, not have to deal with the messy cleanup. Again, for Racing, due to their Free Flow Characteristics... Great.. Just my .02 cents Doc

Yes, the K&P filter and Scotts both are rated at 35 microns. Keep in mind that paper filters are rated on averages, percentages, and multiple passes; so a 10-micron-rated paper filter may be letting particles 50 microns and larger through the paper media. The medical grade stainless steel cloth used in K&P's or Scott's filters is consistent across the entire surface and is rated at 35 microns. This means nothing larger than 35 microns should pass through the material. So in effect, these are more efficient filters. Another positive aspect is the flow rate. Also, if your application uses the billet housing versus an internal filter, the billet housing acts an oil cooler by dissipating heat better than the typical spin-on filters. They work especially well on motorcycles with exposed filters, such as Harley-Davidson. Here is some flow rate information from K&P's site: "The K&P Engineering filter element is made from medical grade, type 304 stainless steel micronic filter cloth to provide unmatched protection against oil contamination and resultant engine damage. A one inch square of this material flows an incredible 1.9 gallons of oil per minute at only 1 PSI pump pressure. The adhesive used in the filter assembly process is good to 600 degrees Fahrenheit, far above normal engine operating temperatures. A super strength nickel-plated neodymium rare earth magnet is installed in the top of the element for magnetic pre-filtering of the oil. The sophisticated bypass is engineered for proper differential pressures and consistent operation, delivering a greater percentage of filtered oil while being very easy to clean. The twist lock design assures positive filter element placement and allows for easy disassembly, inspection and cleaning. The quad-ring gasket doubles the seal between the filter and the engine. Finally, the filter housing is carved out of a solid chunk of 6061T6 billet aluminum, which not only looks trick, but aids in dissipating heat." I agree with you that you can by lots of oil filters for the price of one of these filters. Some people I know (like my husband) are a little nutty about what's going on inside their motors. He just bought one for his '92 Chevy Lumina APV. If he decides to sell it someday, he'll replace it with a typical filter before it's sold. Who knows, maybe it will fit the next vehicle he gets. Sorry about the long response, just trying to offer more info. Diane

I think I would like to see: 1. Bob Schultz (Amsoil Dealer Group) 2. Peromoto 3. The Oil Doc All in a free-for-all cage fight competition. I'd pay money to see it.

Just changed my oil. K8 600. Castrol 4T 10W40 API SH, SG with factory filter. Awesome. Don't make things harder than they are, kids...

I think I would like to see: 1. Bob Schultz (Amsoil Dealer Group) 2. Peromoto 3. The Oil Doc All in a free-for-all cage fight competition. I'd pay money to see it. Bring it on... been doing this for 25 years now.. Bob S.

Dianne. Most filters are rated at Nominal (50 %) except for a few such as Pure 1, Mobil 1, K&N and AMSOIL. Any filter will catch it's share of smaller particles. That is how nothing can be said when a company promotes "10 Micron". Except that Today, it is impossible for a filter to be 10 Micron and be able to flow as well. The AMSOIL EA Series is Conservatively rated at 15 Micron Absolute and will still flow at factory specs or better. This is due to the Patented Nano-Fiber Media. I agree that for a Race Bike, your filter or the Scott's will have a HP edge due to the 1 PSI Backpressure. We try to look at Overall Performance. 65% of engine wear caused by dirt, is caused by Particles in the 5-25 Micron Range. If someone does not care about longevity, it is fine to use other filters. If you are like me, over 20,000 miles a year in the saddle, and plan to keep my bike until the wheels fall off, the choice is simple to use a high quality Spin-On. If you are an all out Racer, your filter may be the better way to go. Different Strokes for different folks.. Bob S.

65% of engine wear caused by dirt, is caused by Particles in the 5-25 Micron Range. If someone does not care about longevity, it is fine to use other filters. If you are like me, over 20,000 miles a year in the saddle, and plan to keep my bike until the wheels fall off, the choice is simple to use a high quality Spin-On. If you are an all out Racer, your filter may be the better way to go. Different Strokes for different folks.. Bob S. Never have I seen someone so passionate about the oil and filter. I am sooooo sold. You guys have chrome oil filters? My 06 Ultra Classic would love you! The non oil,;) Doc

Never have I seen someone so passionate about the oil and filter. I am sooooo sold. You guys have chrome oil filters? My 06 Ultra Classic would love you! The non oil,;) Doc OK Non Oil Doc.... My '07 Ultra loves me for the EAOM-134C (Chrome) Filter.. LOL Even though you can hardly see it... I know it is there. Don't forget the Tranny and Primary Fluid along with Brake Fluid. You should bleed your brakes every year and flush every other to maintain good braking. Bob S.

I think I would like to see: 1. Bob Schultz (Amsoil Dealer Group) 2. Peromoto 3. The Oil Doc All in a free-for-all cage fight competition. I'd pay money to see it. Bring it on... been doing this for 25 years now.. Bob S. http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g197/manchicken3/mr-t-pity-fool.jpg

Lol..

If it does go to the cage, I got fifty on Bob S. :thumbup:

Moble 1 oil and Suzuki oil filter. I change both every 6,000 miles.:thumbup: daaaamn you should change it sooner than that....You can change your filter about every 6000 but id change your oil no more than 3!!!

daaaamn you should change it sooner than that....You can change your filter about every 6000 but id change your oil no more than 3!!! I'll agree with everything but the filter part... Unless you have verified the Extended drain interval through Oil Analysis, you should be changing everything. Bob S.

Mobil 1 Racing 4T and a Emgo Filter