Thanks Cali, I can remember when I was lookin for info like this, took me months researching and staring at parts before I got a handle on it.
If the populus finds these vids helpful I may endeavor to cover a few more topics that I feel proficient at. If someone has a request post it up and I'll see what I can do.... :thumbup:
Yes it is an improvement, broke into the 1.50s a few times with 1.60s being the norm, clutch seems to work more consistently...
I was going through spells of that buckin crap (with the stock set-up) and believe me you that has got to be hard on parts... This mod was the recommended solution from a few different sources so I tried it...
I could still ride the bike more efficiently (clutch work especially) but I lose my freakin mind once I smell smoke...
Ultimately this is a crutch to try an make a clutch do something it wasn't designed to do... There are much better options, at a price of course, but they compromise streetability and until I decide to make it track only that's what I get....
You're right about the adjuster it's very close on the lower adjustment per Brocks instructions. They also want you to monitor the thumbwheel up top after every pass.
This doesn't necessarily mean you have to make an adjustment every pass, you just want to keep an eye on it....
Not much time to play, always racing so no quick ETs. I seem to have picked up about 2 tenths while using my race launch... so I guess I picked up a little.
Well.. its a highly technical process of not leaving set on "Kill" , just kinda leaving a little harder than a stop light (ET race launch). Now set on "Kill" the bike will wheelie and shit but I tend to go a little quicker. Sooo.. leaving like I'm racing and not playing has netted about 1.5 - 2 tenth ET wise, since the winter upgrades. I have not had a chance to go out and try the Kill setting yet Trying to catch the points leader, I'm in third now. SWB is not helping my consistancy.
Makes since but I have nooooo restraint... The smell of burning rubber set's me on kill every time...:lol:... That's why I shoot so much vid otherwise I wouldn't know what happened from the water box to the stripe.......:headshake
ok thanks... also talkin to a few ppl i heard some say that the gsxr plate where good.. but use brocks springs..
whats ur opinion? or is it just better to order the brocks one?
All the clutch fibers goes in the same way til the last one goes in the middle of all the others? Right? This is on K5 600.. what the manual says. OR just I put the last clutch fiber like the other clutch fibers?
Let me clarify that the clutch set-ups that I am most familiar with are the zuk liter bikes... The procedures I demonstrate in the video are specific to the 04' 1K, that doesn't mean that they don't apply to other model/years.
Basically I am saying that although the video was meant to be helpful you must reference a service manual for your specific year, make and model. The info you are looking for should be in there with pictures and specs, they are a wonderful tool.
All that being said get a service manual read up on the clutch info that is in there... Use the videos to help you understand what your looking at and you will be a better gear head for it...
Some of your questions are a bit confusing so I would be willing to hash them out over the phone if you pm your number.... Good luck...:thumbup:
Ok, Take the spring washer and lay it on a flat surface one way it will make a bowl the other way it will make a dome... If it is like the 04 1k then place it in the basket with the bottom of your imaginary bowl in toward the motor....
Start watching the video I am linking at the 14 minute mark and I go over it... I believe I reference it again later in the video... DO NOT go by the cush mod video as it is the opposite orientation...
you said towards the end, that the basket will protrude further with the new thicker friction plates, and that you need to adjust the center thing on the other side, can you clarify what you mean?
I can see why that might be confusing... Good eye/ear tho...
The clutch I removed had an extra steel in it for drag racing purposes. This increased (taller) the overall height of the clutch pack so with that steel removed decreasing (shorter) the stack height it caused the lower pusher rod adjustment to be out too far... Hope that makes sense...
You should always re-adjust the pusher rod/cable assembly when you replace or even work on the clutch just to be sure it is within spec....
:thumbup:
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