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Old 11-04-2007, 05:37 PM   #1
Razahyde
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Default how do i set the throttle position sensor???

so i think this might be the reason my bike is running rich. i had to pull the sensors off a 600 throttle body and install them on my 750. i was unaware at the time that they had to be a specific way. can someone give me the instructions as to how i am suppose to install the sensors.

im not talking about undo bolt and redo bolt. i believe there is an adjustment with both the TPS and STPS

thanks
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Old 11-04-2007, 06:19 PM   #2
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Before you attempt to adjust the tps you need to get a T-25 security torx socket. It's a t25 with a hole in the middle of it for the stud on the head of the screw to fit in. But first put the bike in dealer mode and check the position of it.

If it is off, loosen the screws on the tps and gently rock it left or right until the line on the speedo is in the middle with the engine off/key on and the kill switch in the run postion.
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Old 11-04-2007, 06:21 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnylovely View Post
Before you attempt to adjust the tps you need to get a T-25 security torx socket. It's a t25 with a hole in the middle of it for the stud on the head of the screw to fit in. But first put the bike in dealer mode and check the position of it.

If it is off, loosen the screws on the tps and gently rock it left or right until the line on the speedo is in the middle with the engine off/key on and the kill switch in the run postion.
fuck i dont have a cluster panel lol...and i switched out those screws with regular hex screws. i hate the torx security bullshit.

can you explain more indepth as to what you are talking about. i am unfamiliar with the electronics of the bike so you will need to eleborate. PLEASE
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Old 11-04-2007, 06:33 PM   #4
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You need a multimeter and somewhat of a grasp on electronics to set it the other way.

Unplug the tps sensor and stick the meters leads into the connector. At closed throttle it should read 1.1K ohms, when at full throttle it should read 4.3k ohms.

Make adjustments the way I mentioned before on the tps to achieve the correct resistance readings. When you get it set, tighten up the screws.


You can set the secondary tps the same way, just use your finger to open or close the stv while you test the resistance at full open/close. It's 0.8k ohms closed/3.9k ohms full open when in spec.
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Last edited by johnnylovely; 11-04-2007 at 06:39 PM.
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Old 11-04-2007, 06:39 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnylovely View Post
You need a multimeter and somewhat of a grasp on electronics to set it the other way.

Unplug the tps sensor and stick the meters leads into the connector. At closed throttle it should read 1.1K ohms, when at full throttle it should read 4.3k ohms.

Make adjustments the way I mentioned before on the tps to achieve the correct resistance readings. When you get it set, tighten up the screws.
so what you are saying is that i should close the throttle body. unplug the sensor. and stick the multimeter in. at closed throttle it should read 1.1k ohm and 4.3 wide open right?
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Old 11-04-2007, 06:44 PM   #6
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Yeah, just leave your hand off the throttle when testing for closed. You don't need to physically push on the plate.

Make sure you set the ohmmeter to K before testing.
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Old 11-04-2007, 06:49 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnylovely View Post
Yeah, just leave your hand off the throttle when testing for closed. You don't need to physically push on the plate.

Make sure you set the ohmmeter to K before testing.
what do you mean leave my hand off the throtttle when testing for closed? my upper butteryfly is ALWAYS open, or is that normal? or is that not what you are talking about.

and do this with both sensors or just the electronic butterfly on top. if its both then should i undo the idle screw on the lower butterflys?
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Old 11-04-2007, 07:30 PM   #8
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The lower of the two plates is the primary butterfly valve controlled by your right hand. The upper plate is the secondary throttle valve and is controlled by the ecm through an actuator. Both use a tps to register movement.

Adjust the lower one first and then adjust the upper one. The lower one is hard to get at on the bike, but it can be done.

If you had the screws out for whatever reason I guarantee they will be way off and in need of adjustment.

What happened to your speedo cluster and why did you replace the tb's to begin with? It might not be running because your using parts off a 600 tb.

Also, if you've been messing with the tb sync adjustment screws your really fucked because it takes a special mercury gauge to adjust it correctly.
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Last edited by johnnylovely; 11-04-2007 at 07:33 PM.
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Old 11-04-2007, 07:38 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnylovely View Post
The lower of the two plates is the primary butterfly valve controlled by your right hand. The upper plate is the secondary throttle valve and is controlled by the ecm through an actuator. Both use a tps to register movement.

Adjust the lower one first and then adjust the upper one. The lower one is hard to get at on the bike, but it can be done.

If you had the screws out for whatever reason I guarantee they will be way off and in need of adjustment.

What happened to your speedo cluster and why did you replace the tb's to begin with? It might not be running because your using parts off a 600 tb.

Also, if you've been messing with the tb sync adjustment screws your really fucked because it takes a special mercury gauge to adjust it correctly.
so when i do the lower butteryfly should i close it all the way? the idle screw is keeping it from closing all the way remember.

i had all the screws off because i had to take the TPS off the 600 and put it on my 750. the sensor on mine broke and i picked up a pair of 600 TB.

I had my cluster stolen

only screws ive been messing with are the screws that hold on the TPS. i havnt messed with the actual throttle bodies other then adjusting the idle screw
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Old 11-05-2007, 04:40 PM   #10
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OMFG i cant get this damn throttle position sensors adjusted. i ran teh bike without either sensor and it ran like a champ. so i know the TPS settings are fucking me over.

WILL SOMEONE PLEASE EXPLAIN IN DEPTH WHAT MY PROBLEM IS, HELL ILL EVEN PAY YOU FOR YOUR TIME. PLEASE!!!!!!!!
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Old 11-05-2007, 04:52 PM   #11
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check your PM's
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Old 11-05-2007, 05:31 PM   #12
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check your PM now haha
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Old 11-07-2007, 08:00 PM   #13
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ok see heres the ohm readings from my multimeter. im rotating the sensor all the way to one side. then all the way to the other. its not showing me .6 during any of the movement from the sensor.





see wtf is wrong with my shit. theres the tools im using. so feel free to tell me to try anything else that you think may work.
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Old 01-19-2008, 04:08 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnylovely View Post
You need a multimeter and somewhat of a grasp on electronics to set it the other way.

Unplug the tps sensor and stick the meters leads into the connector. At closed throttle it should read 1.1K ohms, when at full throttle it should read 4.3k ohms.

Make adjustments the way I mentioned before on the tps to achieve the correct resistance readings. When you get it set, tighten up the screws.


You can set the secondary tps the same way, just use your finger to open or close the stv while you test the resistance at full open/close. It's 0.8k ohms closed/3.9k ohms full open when in spec.
I have a 2006 GSXR 750 that I am having some on-off throttle issues with and a Suzuki dude at the Atlanta bike show told me I should maybe check this, along with the TB sync. Seems like the dealer mode check is the quickest without having to take parts off the bike, but I assume the dealer mode requires a special tool. Anyway to check the dealer mode without a tool?

Are those Ohm values the same for a 2006 750 if I have to check it with an multimeter? The Suzuki rep told me that the multimeter test was a more accurate way to check it anyway.

Thanks in advance. I know I'll need a mercury gauge for the TB sync.

Last edited by lelwood; 01-19-2008 at 04:12 PM.
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Old 01-19-2008, 04:28 PM   #15
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Is there a powercommander on the bike?
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Old 01-19-2008, 04:33 PM   #16
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No powercommander, engine and exhaust is all stock
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Old 01-21-2008, 08:28 AM   #17
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Anyone know about the dealer mode switch or TBS ohm values for the K6?
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Old 04-08-2009, 02:39 PM   #18
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i'm sure you got it fixed by now, but the dealer mode is off of a plug in the tail. at least it is on my 04. you should be able to do a check on here and somebody will have one for the 06. i just spliced em and ran some wire leads under my seat so it's easy to go into d.m. if i need to.
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Old 09-22-2011, 01:49 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lelwood View Post
Anyone know about the dealer mode switch or TBS ohm values for the K6?
To get your bike into dealer mode there should be a White 6 pin plug under the rider seat....it will be blanked off with a black cover/cap. If you bridge out the red/white and black/White wires with a paper clip or piece of wire this will put you into dealer mode
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Old 09-22-2011, 02:00 PM   #20
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To get your bike into dealer mode there should be a White 6 pin plug under the rider seat....it will be blanked off with a black cover/cap. If you bridge out the red/white and black/White wires with a paper clip or piece of wire this will put you into dealer mode
Sorry this is for the K5 I misread your post,I don't know how much it has changed
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Old 11-07-2011, 04:20 PM   #21
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so would you be able to get away with removing the STP and the STVA? The reason i ask is that i just bought a salvage and it has them both, but the STVA isn't installed and neither are the upper butterflies. I planned on removing them after reading the threads on them. Thanks for the help, sorry to thread jack.
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