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HOW TO: HID Installation on K7/K8 1000

60K views 103 replies 38 participants last post by  Josh_h  
#1 ·
I recently installed HIDs on my bike and since it was my first time doing anything like this...it was a bit of a headache. When starting to do mine, I searched high and low for a step-by-step walkthrough for a 2007 GSX-R 1000 but couldn’t find one. I decided that tonight when my friend and I installed his HIDs, I’d take pics along the way and post a how-to for anyone wanting to do this. It went MUCH smoother because now I know what I'm doing.

We ordered our HIDs from http://www.sharphid.com. They were $80 shipped each. We decided on the 8000K for a slightly bluish color. As far as what to order…you need a single H7 55w HID bulb. We didn’t replace our hi-beams…just our lows. The kit comes with everything you need to install.

Now…onto the walkthrough…

Here are a few side-by-side pictures of our bikes. The white ’08 currently has the stock lights while the yellow ’07 has the 8000K HIDs already installed. These are just for comparison to the difference in the two.

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The first thing you want to do is remove your gauge cluster. Take out the one bolt (1st pic, yellow arrow) with an allen wrench. Once the single bolt comes off, the only thing holding the gauges on now are two little pressure pins. You can see one of them in the second pic, yellow arrows. The other one is on the top left. Just pull straight out with a little bit of force.

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Once the gauge is off, you’ll have to unplug it. In this picture, the red arrow is pointing to the plug. Just pull back the rubber and push the little tab on the plug to have it release. Set the gauge in a safe place with the bolt. Once the cluster has been removed completely, you’ll want to replace the little running light that sits above your headlight at the base of your windscreen (yellow arrow). The bulb size is a 194. I did a search on eBay for “194 LED” and chose one.

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To get the bulb out, just grab it and turn counter-clockwise and it’ll pop right out. Pull the bulb directly out of the socket and replace with your new 194 LED bulb. Put it back into the hole and turn clockwise to lock it in.

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Here’s a shot of the LED in place. Notice the difference in the two now? It’ll look stupid if you don’t replace this bulb.

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Now…onto the main HID bulb. Pull the socket (yellow arrow) straight off of the bulb. Just pull straight out.

Once the socket has been removed, time to take off the rubber protector. There should be two tabs on the rubber protector…one on the top and one on the bottom. Just use them to help you pull it off. Piece of cake, right?

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#2 ·
Now your stock bulb is vislbe but held in place by a swinging locking pin. Just push in a little where the blue arrow is pointing to unlock the pin. Once unlocked, it should swing across to the other side releasing the stock bulb in the process. Remove the bulb and set aside. It is no longer needed. Now you’re left with an empty housing. Whatta-ya-say we throw that HID in there, huh?

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MMmmmmm….HID bulb. Make sure not to touch the actually bulb. At the bottom of the pic, you can see the little black spacer that will lock up against the bulb. This is what the locking pin will butt up against to hold the HID in.

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When putting the HID and spacer in, make sure the little tab is facing UP. It fits in like a puzzle piece and will NOT fit in any other way. Save yourself some trouble and face it UP to begin with. You can see what I mean in this pic. Once it’s in, lock it into place with the pin.

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Once the HID is locked into place…here are the wires coming from the bulb…
GREEN ARROW – Ground (Negative)
PINK ARROW – Power (Positive)
BLACK and BLUE ARROWS – Connect to the other piece of the kit…the ballast and resistor.

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Now for the fun part…Remember that rubber protector from earlier? Time to slip it back over the wires. Slide ALL the wires through the rubber protector. EVERYTHING needs to go through in order for the protector to go back into place where it was before. Good luck.

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Now, this next pic is a little confusing. Don’t go by how I did it. You have to make sure that EVERYTHING is pushed through that protector in the previous step. I made a mistake and started plugging it all up first. I had to unplug the POWER and GROUND in order to push them through the protector.

Once everything is through the rubber protector 100%, it’s time to plug in the POWER and GROUND wires. Remember the plug you pulled out of the stock bulb? That’s where the RED (power) and BLACK (ground) wires go. DO NOT MESS THIS STEP UP. MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHICH IS POSITIVE AND WHICH IS NEGATIVE. I REPEAT…DO NOT MESS THIS STEP UP. The NEGATIVE has a bright white line on it. The POSITIVE has a barely visible grey line on it. Once they are in and secure, use electrical tape to keep them dry and nice and snug.

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It’s starting to all come together…

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Now…make sure the rubber on the kit wiring is pushed in nice and tight against the stock rubber protector. Run the remiang three wires through the bottom of where the gauge is. Look at pic for verification…

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#3 · (Edited)
Connect the three remaining wires from the HID bulb to the three wires on the ballast/resistor. You can’t mess this step up as the wires will only fit one way. Once everything is connected, feel free to turn the key to the ON position. If everything went right, you should now be admiring your new HIDs lighting up the wall in front of you.

Good…now that everything works…let’s get the ballast mounted. I mounted ours to the left top side fairing. If you have a K7/K8 1000, you’ll know where from the pics…

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Now, it’s time to clean up the mess. There should be wires all over the place. Carefully pull them all together nice and tight and zip-tie them so it’s nice and clutter-free. Make sure everything is nice and neatly tucked away. You don’t want some loose wire grabbing your steering dampener or interfering with your turning. For your safety, this is very important. Don’t mind the arrow, just using the same pic as above.

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Plug the gauge back in, pop it into place and put the bolt back in with the allen wrench. Make sure to double check for any loose wires. Everything should be tucked away neatly. And there really should be too much visible…maybe a wire or two but that’s all.

ENJOY YOUR NEW HIDS!

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Here’s a YouTube video of my friend leaving my house with his new HIDs. Yes…they are very bright!!
GSXR 1000 with HIDs.

I think I covered everything but I might have missed something along the way. Please feel free to post any questions you may have.

Please do any of this at your own risk. I will not be held responsible for you frying your wires or messing something up.
 
#5 ·
o hell yea i want some lol. hey u chose 800k whats the diff between 800k and 12000k? i know they burn hotter but are the brighter or i never got it but i know thats the temp
 
#6 ·
Question: What do the different "k"s mean? 4100k, 4300k, etc.
Answer:
HID bulbs color temperature is measured in Kelvin (k). From a slightly yellow, as the number increase, the more blue (or purple) the light becomes.

Question: So what "k" is brightest?
Answer:
Brightness is subjective based on what different people's eyes (brain) perceive the light to be. Brightness is measured in Lumens (lm). A 60-watt incandescent bulb produces ~830 lumens.

Q: What "k" kits are available?
Answer:
Reference: Halogen bulb = 1500-2000 Lumens & ~3000k
Reference: Sunlight at noon = 5000-5500k
4100k = 3500 Lumens
5000k = 3200 Lumens
6000k = 2800 Lumens
8000k = 2500 Lumens
10000k = 2200 Lumens
12000k = 2100 Lumens

Here is a kelvin color graph:
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#7 ·
I ain't knocking you man but, doesn't the amount of blinding light scatter coming out of the front of the bike bother/worry you? The cut line on your buddy's bike is well above a driver's eye line and the light is blinding even from where you're standing, theoretically well above the low beam cutoff.

What you've got here is what happens when you install HIDs in halogen housings.

What I chose to do was just put Silverstar low/PIAA Xtreme White high halogen bulbs in the stock housings. The low beam's reach is over 400', with a spread of over 150'. It is not blinding in any way to oncoming drivers and it's the best headlight I've seen on any bike I've ever had, period.

K7
 
#10 ·
You're perfectly entitled to do what you want, please don't take offense when none is intended.

Here's my problem, aside from just not wanting to blind other motorists, out of courtesy: Drivers, blinded by the light from your bike, will have a tendency to actually drive TOWARDS you rather than away, especially if caught by surprise, around a corner, for example. That target fixation response is well-known, well documented and poses the very risk you're seeking to avoid.

K7
 
#11 ·
Agree with you on that, which raises a question for my bike.

I have a k8 600 and I am thinking of installing a low beam HID. The low beam looks like a projector housing. Will that work with an HID kit or will I still get scattered light?
 
#12 ·
The projector is the HIGH beam light. It takes a 65 watt H9. It's still focussed for a halogen bulb though, same as the low beam. The high beam is pretty much a blast of light anyway so light leakage isn't as critical. What is though, is HIDs take time to energise so, your flash to pass button won't work anymore.

Other problems I have with HIDs that are less mission critical: They don't like to live too long if they are cycled alot and the massive amounts of UV they put out can damage plastics not designed to withstand it.

Now, I reiterate: Everyone is free to do what they want and, I'm not insulting anybody.

K7
 
#13 ·
For other years, you may be correct, but for the K8 600's the center projector is the lowbeam and the two side areas are the highbeams...I do not plan on replacing the high beams with HID.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Any low beam light needs controlled light output.
The K8 600 lowbeam housing looks like it is a projector. Can anyone confirm this?

I'm guessing it is better than standard halogen housing (reflector?) but still not as good as a retro-fit HID housing.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Videos on Youtube verify the projector as low beam.

Projectors are more about packaging than performance. They let you get away with a small frontal area but maintain light performance, over a much bigger standard dish reflector. A projector has to be much more carefully tuned than a standard dish reflector and shows errors in those calculations more than a dish will.

...and yer right, a purpose-built HID housing and bulb will outperform any similar sized halogen lamp, with the aforementioned caveats.

K7
 
#17 ·
the video makes the HID's SEEM like they will blind other drivers when in fact they will not. i have had my friends ride my bike behind me and i wasn't blinded at all. its DEF bright but cars blind me all the time a lot worse than bikes do.

and when its all sadi and done... we are out there on two wheels, we gotta look out for our safety. the brighter and louder... THE BETTER! nice job man! :thumbup:
 
#23 · (Edited)
I like the position light, Euro-centric as I am. and it was $1.25 for an LED light to replace it on ebay, shipped.

I gotta roll out my own lighting setup and try for a comparison shot like the OP did. Then people can decide what's best for them. Wonder what my camera will make of that?

I just love modifying and changing stuff; it's alot of the reason I bought a Gixxer 1000. Everybody makes something cool for this bike. It's the Mustang 5.0 of the bike world....'cept it handles and stops :lol:

I commend the OP for taking the time to take pictures and contribute to the community here. That was thoughtful and isn't unnoticed by people. So, thank you for that, since I haven't said it before.

K7
 
#27 ·
we got the same bike but white silver not yellow silver. i love the yello and white. do u wish ur bike was fully yellow? i was thinking i think ide like it if everything that was silver was white on mine.
 
#33 ·
hmm couldnt someone just buy the stock replacement bulbs. i see them in the auto stores that say ther 8000K and it takes place of the stock bulb no hid extra plug in stuff??? just surious trying to find the cheapest way to a nice look lol
 
#39 · (Edited)
hey Mike,

1st off, again nice write up.

2nd, i got the same HID's from the same website for the low and high beam and they are amazing... i just need to figure out where to put two dam ballasts and all the wires. im working on something and we'll see if it works.

3rd, what brand is that 194 LED u got? i got some Pilot ones and they arent that bright at all
 
#41 ·
now, now, fellas....

Mike, nice azz write up/how-to!! I think with my 01 having 2 bulbs in the headlight this is going to be twice as expensive. I was thinking of finding a projector style headlight but I doubt thats happening so....

K7, I am assuming that PIAA and Sylvania will have those bulbs for me and mine right?

Thanks in advance
 
#42 ·
I don't know what '01s use but, they have all the standards, H4, H7, H9 and the awesome plastic crap like 9004s and 5s found in cars.

PIAA does them all, Sylvania does all, except H9. Don't trust the PIAA catalogue for fitment data, though, go to the bike's owner's manual or pull the bulb. The catalogue was wrong about what's in my '07.

K7