Case Cracked - GSXR.com
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-03-2019, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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Case Cracked

Hey all,

Been gone for awhile. Got my hands on a new engine approx 7k miles on it. The only gripe I have is this hole in the case near the stator. Not sure oil flows to that area but I'd rather ask y'all before I coat my garage in oil and upset the wife. What do you all think?
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-03-2019, 03:23 PM
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Iím sorry to be the bearer of bad news but I believe oil will pour out of there with abundance, and upset the wife no end.


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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-03-2019, 03:30 PM
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^What he said.

It will pour out as soon as you put oil in it. There is not oil pressure on it, but the oil level is just about at the damage plus you have crankcase pressure.

The worse news is that is a chunk out of the lower part of the crankcase.

Anything is repairable, but that will be difficult. About the only method that would be anyway reasonable would be to build that area up with JB Weld and then file down the cover mating service.

It is a major rig, but doable.

Can you bring this prize back?

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-03-2019, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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I went back to the guy to show him this today. Unfortunately he stated that since it was a used engine its sold as is. And he "couldn't" remember seeing that before. He wanted to do the same thing that you suggested john. I may let him. Issue is that he takes long months to do any type of project and I don't want to wait that long. So I asked him to return it and he has to "ask" his boss. At this point im fully discouraged but the engine is only 7k miles! I'm hoping that he will take it back.

Thanks for your insight, I figured as much but wanted to be very sure before I did anything stupid.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-04-2019, 04:29 AM
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I'm not sure I'd trust JB Weld or silicone there. It's a pretty big hole. For that, I'd recommend splitting the cases and having a machine shop build it up with weld and then machine it to match the mating surfaces. Take a couple more pictures, but put a tape measure in there to give some scale. Take it around to some shops, tell them it's cast aluminum. Depending on cost, if you could get them to build it up with weld, you could file it down so that there's a 1/16" short of the mating surfaces. Then just fill it with silicone. That I would trust.

The good news is that it's not structural. A good welder could have that filled in under an hour. Drain the fluids, pull the rotor, and clean it really well. As long as they don't weld the cases together (which would be very easy to correct), it'd be good as new.

The bad news is that this is an indication that there could be more damage. Something like this could be from a crash or a really shitty mechanic. If it's a crash, I'd pull the spark plugs and have someone crank the engine while I watched the rotor. If that shaft is bent, you're f-ed.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-04-2019, 05:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckster View Post
If it's a crash, I'd pull the spark plugs and have someone crank the engine while I watched the rotor. If that shaft is bent, you're f-ed.
Good point. There was a real good chance the cover got destroyed in order to cause that case damage.

I had a friend with an F4I that laid it down pretty slow on an oil patch in the rain. Unfortunately, it slid into a curb. He found the crankshaft bent when he removed the cracked cover and then he found the crankcase bearings web cracked behind the rotor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckster View Post
If you think reading is tricky, how the hell are you going to follow troubleshooting directions?
"Riding well is difficult, riding poorly is easy and painful."
- Nick Ienatsch


"We're all here because we're not all there" - Guy Favron on Gold Rush

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Last edited by rv6john; 05-04-2019 at 05:34 AM.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-05-2019, 12:19 PM
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I think you should pull the plugs and turn the motor over before even thinking of repairing the case. Assuming that the motor isn't in the bike, use jumper cables, positive to the lug on the starter, negative to anywhere on the motor for ground. Watch the rotor, if it isn't true, i.e., it wobbles, then the next step would be to remove the rotor and check the end of the crankshaft the same way. If the rotor runs true, then repair the case. I would take it to someone that does heli-arc welding, fill it in and file down flush. If the crank is bent, bad news.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 07:28 AM Thread Starter
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So I was able to turn the crankshaft by hand. (wrench on stator rotor bolt.) All the pistons move without much effort. Will take the case for repair and inspect the shaft while thats happening. Thanks for all your input. i'll keep this thread update once its resolved or I just give up.
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