Please help, L1 600 performance issue - Page 2 - GSXR.com
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post #41 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 03:21 PM
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If you mean back-flushing, if it works at all, it will only be for a short time. The filter should be OK if it passes the flow test.

Other's here should know better about symptoms associated with out of spec valves on 600's. But I think they're hard starting, low compression, and poor idling.
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post #42 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 05:21 PM
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I've backflushed mines & Ive got 2000 km on it. I connected a rubber tubing to the nozzle of an air gun & let it rip. Pressure at 90 psi & run some throttle body cleaner & carb cleaner. Run until clear.

I can redline my bike now under load.
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post #43 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-05-2019, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
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Today I got exhaust pipe temps and CAT temps where the pipes enter and exit the CAT. A while ago rv6john hade do the spray test on the pipes, and I reported that the two middle pipes heated up quicker than the outer two. Dont take the temps to the exact degree, but here is a pic of the findings I got with my $20.00? Radio Shack IR thermometer. It worked great for my nitro RC truck.
I started taking exhaust pipe temps when my display hit 85 degrees. Cylinder 1 is left side of bike.
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Last edited by New2Street; 09-05-2019 at 03:43 PM.
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post #44 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 05:21 AM Thread Starter
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I'm not an expert on how CAT's work, other than I know they create some back pressure. Would it be normal for the temp to be so high in the 2" between the SET valve and CAT, or would that be because there may be a restriction as the gasses enter the CAT? The temp as the gasses enter the slip-on seemed fine to me.
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post #45 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 09:12 AM Thread Starter
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UPDATE:. Anyone following my posts should know this bike has me sick to my stomach! I retired and bought a bike I thought would last for years, and lately feel like the engine was going bad. After even more searching the web I keep reading about people with similar power loss problems and the O2 sensor. Simply unscrewing the O2 sensor in an attempt to relieve back pressure did nothing. Today I took a chance and actually unplugged the O2 sensor and went for a ride (no codes for an unplugged O2 sensor??) Holy Crap!!!!!! I almost have my bike back! So much more acceleration off the line and up in the power band!
I'm not going to say everything is fixed, but it runs so much better.
Any input from all of you that know more than I? Thanks!
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post #46 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 09:23 AM
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Well, if it was reading wrong from the O2 it would cause the ecu to run it either too rich or too lean. If it runs good I'd just leave it unplugged as it should default to the standard fueling settings which should be good.

Not Grinding, Not Riding
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post #47 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 10:03 AM Thread Starter
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Ok. Thanks. It did smell just a little rich to me, especially while warming up. Never enough for smoke or anything. I'll ride it for a day or two and report back on how it's running.
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post #48 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 11:44 AM
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Nice find if it turns out that it was the problem.

My bike doesn't have one of those newfangled sensors so I don't know much about them. The service manual seems to focus on the integral heater, which will produce a C44 error if it fails. You don't have that but I don't see why the rest of the sensor couldn't fail. You might look into a new sensor, but I see that they aren't cheap.

P.S. There's a good explanation of the interaction between the sensor and the ECM in post #3 here. That's from one of the very few people who actually spent time disassembling and inspecting the ECM's binary code. I generally hold his opinions in high regard.

Last edited by billv; 09-06-2019 at 02:24 PM. Reason: Added P.S.
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