Please help, L1 600 performance issue - GSXR.com
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 50 (permalink) Old 07-14-2019, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
Rider
 
New2Street's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 227
So I've posted before, when I got my 600 last July it came with about 14,000 miles on it and a Jardine GP1 slip-on. CAT is present. When I revved the bike up at that time, even cold, the rpms went up quick and the exhaust had a nice crisp race exhaust sound. At the end of the summer I complained about a muffled sound, and lest pick-up off the line. Over the winter I replaced the plugs, and found that two were barely screwed in all the way and took no effort to unscrew by hand. (I checked the Gap and properly torqued the new plugs). Air filter was dirty and has been replaced with the stock Suzuki filter.
I have already determined that the bike gets better mileage on the highway than in town. I run mostly 93 octane gas. When I rev the bike up, the exhaust sounds muffled or restricted to me, and is not as crisp or higher pitched like it was in the beginning. I checked the rear screen of the CAT, and that still looks the same and not clogged. Today when I started the bike I waited a minute and sprayed water on the exhaust pipes. The two middle pipes evaporated the water a few seconds sooner than the outside, but the middle pipes also have that tuning? Bar running between them. After several more seconds all pipes seemed the same.
The other thing I can offer is that the power doesn't noticably kick in until 5-6,000 rpms, and if I'm in town in 3rd or fourth gear at 5,000 rpms the bike is a dog. I'm not sure what to check next. There is no stuttering, I can't say valves are tapping, but I'm not an expert in the I4 engines. no weird smell from exhaust, and no FI lights. (I have a switch hooked up to the dealer plug in case I get one, I can flip the switch to see the code) RV6John has helped with checking the exca or set valve, and that seems to go through it's rotation properly, (checked by turning on ignition, not starting the bike) I just don't know if it sits in the proper position when the bike is at idle. If it's wide open at idle I've read that can cause a loss of low rpm power, (it's partially designed to create back pressure at lower rpm's?) but should also throw a code?

Last edited by New2Street; 07-14-2019 at 03:15 PM.
New2Street is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 50 (permalink) Old 07-15-2019, 08:36 PM Thread Starter
Rider
 
New2Street's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 227
Third gear at 4-5,000 rpms has decent power and really pulls at 6,000+. Fourth gear is weak below 5,000 rpms and has plenty of pull as I approach 6,000. Im assuming because of gear ratios those are normal performance?
New2Street is offline  
post #3 of 50 (permalink) Old 07-16-2019, 12:51 AM
Rider
 
Vader225's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Wilson NC
Posts: 343
Garage
Sounds about right to me. Power doesn't really kick in till about 6000+ rpm's on the 600's. Especially when you get in 3rd gear and on up you just don't have the torque to spin it up at the lower RPM's.

Not Grinding, Not Riding
Vader225 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 50 (permalink) Old 07-16-2019, 04:56 AM
Mod of the North.
 
Tinsnips's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Take a wild guess...
Posts: 24,391
The SET valve will throw a code if unplugged. That said you can pull a wire out of the ECU to prevent the code. I removed my actuator (leaving the valve intact but wide open) and found very little difference in performance or start up. There was a slightly different sound though...a tiny bit more bass. Honestly, you would have to know the bike well to notice the difference. I'm not convinced that is your issue.

Favorite Quote: "Told y'all I was gonna blow shit up." -Fubar



Total MPG Wins: 189 (Retired)
Tinsnips is offline  
post #5 of 50 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 08:56 AM Thread Starter
Rider
 
New2Street's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 227
I am not sure what to check next but this bike is really stressing me out. I just had it at my local shop again. The shop does not have electronic equipment to test the bike but they said it sounded fine. To me the bike is noticeably more muffled or restricted when I rev the bike up and now I'm noticing more of a power loss below 6000 RPMs. It doesn't even feel quite as strong above 6,000. I have done a fuel flow test and got 9 oz in 10 seconds so that's better than the 5.6 required. Bike has a little over 15,000 miles. No codes. Not sure what to check next.
New2Street is offline  
post #6 of 50 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 09:01 AM Thread Starter
Rider
 
New2Street's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 227
I have tried internet searches on clogged catalytic converters on motorcycles and can't really even find anything almost like it doesn't happen not sure if that could be the problem or not but would hate to cut it off and find out that's not it. if the catalytic converter was clogging up and causing a loss of power wouldn't that extra pressure closer to the engine cause some kind of FI light?
New2Street is offline  
post #7 of 50 (permalink) Old 07-24-2019, 09:34 AM Thread Starter
Rider
 
New2Street's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 227
I just checked the exca or set valve on my cold bike. Before turning key on, the valve appears to be closed. I am going to try posting a video of position as key is tuned on through the bike warming up. The valve slowly turns open as I rev the bike to 6,000 rpms. I did not rev higher to see if the valve opens fully.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/YtR7dRXRE6aRWQHg7
New2Street is offline  
post #8 of 50 (permalink) Old 07-26-2019, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
Rider
 
New2Street's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 227
If I were to cut the CAT just behind the Set valve as if doing a CAT delete to determine if there is a partial clog, would I give able to get the correct size pipe and two clamps to re-attach it if everything was fine? Otherwise I would order the delete pipe. Just a thought. Getting frustrated that whatever is causing this is not throwing a code. I would think if it was something like the fuel filter the performance at higher RPM's would be as diminished as it is at low. And my flow test was good.

Ok. I guess that's a NO. The inlet to the CAT gets wider at that weld point.

What would happen if I unscrewed the O2 sensor in front of the SET valve to relieve pressure? If I went in a ride and had noticeably more power it could possibly be the CAT. OR, would the O2 sensor removed mess up the air/fuel reading enough that that philosophy won't work? Just trying g to figure this out.

Last edited by New2Street; 07-26-2019 at 11:09 AM.
New2Street is offline  
post #9 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-08-2019, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
Rider
 
New2Street's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 227
Still puzzled, and still say the engine is loagy when I rev it up and at lower rpm's. Not quite as peppy as it should be at high rpms. Even though I got 9 oz. Of fuel flow in ten seconds, could it still be a partially clogged fuel filter causing this problem?
New2Street is offline  
post #10 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-09-2019, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
Rider
 
New2Street's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 227
Pulled the fuel pump today. I am assuming this is a dirty strainer/ fuel filter?? So I ordered a new one.
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_20190809_134714_1565374353613.jpg   IMG_20190809_134723_1565374376327.jpg  
New2Street is offline  
post #11 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-10-2019, 12:00 AM
Rider
 
Vader225's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Wilson NC
Posts: 343
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by New2Street View Post
Pulled the fuel pump today. I am assuming this is a dirty strainer/ fuel filter?? So I ordered a new one.
yeah that would do it. Check the black cartage filter ass well by flushing some fuel through it backwards.

Not Grinding, Not Riding
Vader225 is offline  
post #12 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-10-2019, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
Rider
 
New2Street's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 227
I was able to backflush this filter with carb and choke cleaner spray. it did get whiter but is not perfect that's for sure. It will do until the new one gets here in a few days. The mesh almost seems like it has some kind of coating on it from over the years that could slow down the fuel flow a little? Where is the other filter located you are talking about? I never saw it. Is there any type of stick filter on the other side of these two tubes, or are they just vents?
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_20190809_131916_1565448035220.jpg  

Last edited by New2Street; 08-10-2019 at 09:14 AM.
New2Street is offline  
post #13 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-10-2019, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
Rider
 
New2Street's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 227
When I remove the tank to replace the fuel filter should I also pull the fuel injectors and clean them? hopefully when I pull that fuel rail and look at the injectors I'll be able to see the screens on the output side of the injectors and tell whether or not they are dirty? Or,. Should I just see if the new fuel filter fixes the problem.

Last edited by New2Street; 08-10-2019 at 07:05 PM.
New2Street is offline  
post #14 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-10-2019, 11:45 PM
Rider
 
Vader225's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Wilson NC
Posts: 343
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by New2Street View Post
I was able to backflush this filter with carb and choke cleaner spray. it did get whiter but is not perfect that's for sure. It will do until the new one gets here in a few days. The mesh almost seems like it has some kind of coating on it from over the years that could slow down the fuel flow a little? Where is the other filter located you are talking about? I never saw it. Is there any type of stick filter on the other side of these two tubes, or are they just vents?


If you look in this picture you can see the black Cartage on the left. you pull it off and it will have the inlet at the top and outlet on the bottom. You can push fuel through it at the bottom to flush any debris out the top that may have gotten stuck.

Quote:
Originally Posted by New2Street View Post
When I remove the tank to replace the fuel filter should I also pull the fuel injectors and clean them? hopefully when I pull that fuel rail and look at the injectors I'll be able to see the screens on the output side of the injectors and tell whether or not they are dirty? Or,. Should I just see if the new fuel filter fixes the problem.
I would try the new filter first and if that doesn't fix it clean the injectors or buy new ones. I've had to replace my injectors twice due to ethanol clogging them up and I wasn't able to get them to flow correctly after cleaning.

Not Grinding, Not Riding
Vader225 is offline  
post #15 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 08:29 AM Thread Starter
Rider
 
New2Street's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 227
Thanks Vader, I'll look more closely when I have the new filter. I have seen the pump you show, but the pump in my L1 looks like this.
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_20190809_132256_1565533753498.jpg  
New2Street is offline  
post #16 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-11-2019, 08:50 AM
Rider
 
Vader225's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Wilson NC
Posts: 343
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by New2Street View Post
Thanks Vader, I'll look more closely when I have the new filter. I have seen the pump you show, but the pump in my L1 looks like this.
Yeah the filter on that one is white instead of black, they're pretty much the same.

Not Grinding, Not Riding
Vader225 is offline  
post #17 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 11:01 AM Thread Starter
Rider
 
New2Street's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 227
Now I have changed the fuel filter, (strainer) and that still did not do much. Now I am noticing less power even above 6,000 rpms out on the highway. No codes! I just got the bike inspected today and I asked the garage if they could be of any help. They said they weren't sure about the catalytic converter on my bike, but said if they hook their instrument up to a car even if that wasn't throwing a code their instrument would tell them that the cars catalytic converter was clogging up. Can the motorcycle dealership do the same thing with a bike? They showed me two catalytic converter from cars that had started to clog and the discoloration of the converter housing. Mine isn't discolored but it does seem like the bike heats up over 200 in town fairly easily. Fan is working fine. Temp out was about 70 and bike ran bout 180 on the highway at 80+ mph.
New2Street is offline  
post #18 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 11:31 PM
Rider
 
Vader225's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Wilson NC
Posts: 343
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by New2Street View Post
Now I have changed the fuel filter, (strainer) and that still did not do much. Now I am noticing less power even above 6,000 rpms out on the highway. No codes! I just got the bike inspected today and I asked the garage if they could be of any help. They said they weren't sure about the catalytic converter on my bike, but said if they hook their instrument up to a car even if that wasn't throwing a code their instrument would tell them that the cars catalytic converter was clogging up. Can the motorcycle dealership do the same thing with a bike? They showed me two catalytic converter from cars that had started to clog and the discoloration of the converter housing. Mine isn't discolored but it does seem like the bike heats up over 200 in town fairly easily. Fan is working fine. Temp out was about 70 and bike ran bout 180 on the highway at 80+ mph.
Temp is normal, nothing wrong there, I'm betting your injectors are clogged, since that's exactly what happened to my K3 this year. Had to replace them because cleaning them didn't work out. I found a set of replacement ones for about $60 on ebay, and couldn't tell a difference between them and the OEM ones. You can do a fuel flow test which should be about 300 ml of fuel per key cycle and that will tell you if your getting fuel to the injectors. Then you can get a fuel gauge and hook it up between the fuel tank and the fuel rail and check the pressure while running and it should hold steady at 42 psi when you open the throttle. If both tests pass then your injectors are the issue.

Not Grinding, Not Riding
Vader225 is offline  
post #19 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
Rider
 
New2Street's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 227
Thanks Vader225. I did a fuel flow test earlier in the summer. The service manual states at least 5.6 oz. In 10 seconds. I got 9 oz. In 10 seconds. I'll have to see if my local shop has an inline? Fuel pressure gauge (that's what it sounds like you are suggesting) that we can test the running fuel pressure. Can you send me the link to the fuel injectors you got on eBay? I'm assuming you think the injectors are clogging up more than it being the cat clogging up. I've tried strong doses of different fuel injector cleaners in the gas tank and that has not helped.
New2Street is offline  
post #20 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-20-2019, 11:38 PM
Rider
 
Vader225's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Wilson NC
Posts: 343
Garage
I'm pretty sure It's injectors instead of the cat clogging. Bad fuel and the ethanol today has caused me to pull my hair out several times over a bike that I couldn't find anything wrong with and I finally just gave up and got new injectors. It fixed it twice for me, and symptoms are the same as what you have.

You have a lot of options with injectors, can go from the cheepo chinese ones, which I bought and they worked well for me, OEM, OEM used, and mid-grade replacements. I've got links to some below.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-11-15-...CSubmodel%3A--

https://www.ebay.com/itm/11-12-13-14...EAAOSwL2NalFZQ

https://www.ebay.com/itm/163444826627

I'd try pulling the secondary injectors and cleaning them before I try anything else. They open up in the higher RPM's and add more fuel and if they aren't working then your going to notice a pretty big lack of power.

Not Grinding, Not Riding
Vader225 is offline  
post #21 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-21-2019, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
Rider
 
New2Street's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 227
I have the service manual downloaded and have reviewed the disassembly process, but can the secondary injectors be pulled out for cleaning without actually removing the fuel rail? Just thinking less chance of messing something up. I can rig a fitting to attach between the injector and spray cleaner. Does any cleaner actually work better than the others? Thanks. I'm planning on doing this Saturday.
Karl
New2Street is offline  
post #22 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 11:30 PM
Rider
 
Vader225's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Wilson NC
Posts: 343
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by New2Street View Post
I have the service manual downloaded and have reviewed the disassembly process, but can the secondary injectors be pulled out for cleaning without actually removing the fuel rail? Just thinking less chance of messing something up. I can rig a fitting to attach between the injector and spray cleaner. Does any cleaner actually work better than the others? Thanks. I'm planning on doing this Saturday.
Karl
Not sure to be honest, With pulling the fuel rail only thing that you have to pay attention to is the o-rings on the injectors and where they mount up to the throttle body. You don't want to pinch or lose one by accident. Or put two in the same hole like I did once... As far as cleaner goes pretty much any carb cleaner will work. You just need voltage applied to the injector to open it. A 9 volt battery and 2 sets of alligator clamps works well. I'd say it's maybe a 2/10 on the difficulty scale.

Not Grinding, Not Riding
Vader225 is offline  
post #23 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-23-2019, 02:56 AM
Rider
 
PaulPhilly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 477
I like 2+2 when it comes too the spray fi and carb and choke cleaners, also I think sea foam could work for your project. I’d have to disagree with who ever said there all the same it don’t matter what kind. Most of the sprays you find now at your parts store are environmentally friendly and do not work as well as 2+2. You could also try soaking the injectors in kerosene.

Last edited by PaulPhilly; 08-23-2019 at 04:16 AM.
PaulPhilly is offline  
post #24 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-24-2019, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
Rider
 
New2Street's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 227
I removed the fuel delivery tube/ fuel injectors. I cleaned each injector individually with the spray/ intermittent 12v method I saw on y-tube. I can't say any of the secondary Injectors were dirty, and all four seemed to fire properly. All four primary injectors had a "V" shaped fan spray pattern. Not sure what to check next before re-installing the fuel rail / injectors. The injectors appeared to fire ok when I cleaned them, so I assume if the ECU wasn't sending an injector voltage to fire or if there was another electrical problem with them I would be getting a code.
This is really driving me crazy!!
ALSO, the other day I had to ride in the rain. Since I was starting out on wet roads with cold tires I put the bike in "B" mode. The bike REALLY ran like a dog off the line! Not sure if that info helps or not.

Last edited by New2Street; 08-24-2019 at 04:43 PM.
New2Street is offline  
post #25 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-24-2019, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
Rider
 
New2Street's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 227
While the airbox is off I decided to check the plugs. Posting a pic of plug one. Tiny bit of oil in threads by crush washer on plugs one and two. Plugs three and four were cleaner. All electrodes looked fine to me.
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_20190824_192644_1566690828236.jpg  
New2Street is offline  
post #26 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-28-2019, 09:41 AM Thread Starter
Rider
 
New2Street's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 227
The other day I removed the fuel rail and cleaned all 8 injectors. They appeared to spray better after a few quick blasts of the cleaner going through them, but I can't say any were clogged. I found the Secondary injectors spray one nice wide cone pattern, and the primary injectors spray a dual or "V" shaped cone pattern. The bike runs a little better, especially above 5K, but still not normal. Revving the engine at idle still sounds muffled to me.
In a few days I'm going to pick up a fuel pressure gauge and check the pressure. Next I'll remove the right side panel and O2 sensor to see if relieving any pressure adds power (CAT plugging up). Still baffled and still no codes.
New2Street is offline  
post #27 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-31-2019, 08:01 PM Thread Starter
Rider
 
New2Street's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 227
Today I checked the coils, and all were in spec according to the device manual. I also checked the battery. Here is a pic of the findings. I also removed the O2 sensor and went for a ride to see if relieving some back pressure would boos performance, ie. Maybe the CAT is clogging up and causing a restriction. There was no improvement in performance. Wednesday I am going to get a fuel pressure gauge so I can see if the pump is up to spec.
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_20190831_191201_1567303254837.jpg  
New2Street is offline  
post #28 of 50 (permalink) Old 08-31-2019, 10:31 PM
Novice
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 80
"when I pull that fuel rail and look at the injectors I'll be able to see the screens on the output side of the injectors"

I hope you realize by now that the screens are on the inlet side.

Hooking up a fuel pressure gauge so you can read the pressure while you ride is the ultimate way to diagnose fuel pump problems. But it's a hassle that's normally unnecessary, i.e. the flow test is enough. You may be the exception, particularly since that dirty strainer makes me wonder what else had happened. The strainer is cleanable but back flushing the main filter is generally a waste of time. The fuel pressure while riding will tell all. What you're looking for is whether the pressure is maintained under high demand conditions, i.e. high load and RPM. How about swapping the primary and secondary injectors? At first I also thought that your problem was with the injectors. But after what you've done, I'm thinking that the problem may be elsewhere.

I wonder about the SET valve even though you've done some checking. In your video, it doesn't seem to cycle quite as far as I'd expect. I'd try to avoid unbolting the cables at their clamps as readjusting them is a bunch of work. But you might be able to remove the pulley at the exhaust without disturbing the cables. If so you ought to be able to check for 90 of movement and it ought to be possible to unconnect the cables from the pulley and set the valve to full open. Not sure about yours but the valve may be spring loaded to full open. Wire it open if there's any question of it not remaining open. Then unplug the actuator connectors and go for a ride. You'll get a C46 error but that's OK for testing.

Just to be sure, check that the hoses to the MAP sensor are connected and OK. A kinked fuel hose is possible but you should have noticed that by now. I assume that you've never had the throttle body off. I also wonder if your secondary throttle sensor and/or actuator might be acting up.

Last edited by billv; 09-01-2019 at 01:19 PM.
billv is offline  
post #29 of 50 (permalink) Old 09-01-2019, 03:10 PM Thread Starter
Rider
 
New2Street's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 227
Billy,
I'll check into your suggestions as soon as I can. The loss of power is evident to me even revving the bike up to 6,000 or so from idle. I can excellerate up to 11+ k and have plenty of power through those rpms. Just haven't tried higher, I don't beat the bike. I was probably in 4th when I ran it up that high to shift. But, there are days the bike feels loagy in everything but first gear below 5k or so. This happens especially if I put it in "B" mode.
By the way, unless I am missing something in the device manual and in the parts supply company diagrams, my L1 only has one filter/ strainer as Suzuki calls it. This is at the bottom of the fuel pump assembly and resembles a white tea bag with a plastic connector on it.

Last edited by New2Street; 09-01-2019 at 05:01 PM.
New2Street is offline  
post #30 of 50 (permalink) Old 09-01-2019, 07:53 PM
Novice
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 80
I like to say that the strainer is there to keep rocks, dead mice, and severed hands out of the pump motor. Very little filtering beyond that is done there. The real filtering is done by the "regulator" that sits on the pump motor outlet and consists of a pressure regulator and the main filter (probably 10 micron rating). That's normally what clogs up. Of the $115 price, about $30 is the regulator and $85 is the filter.

Last edited by billv; 09-01-2019 at 08:04 PM.
billv is offline  
post #31 of 50 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 10:26 AM Thread Starter
Rider
 
New2Street's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 227
So possibly the finer filter on the regulator is clogged up some since my other filter was as well. Does that mean it is okay to pull the regulator from the bracket that it's in, because the manual says never take the regulator out - that's why I missed that filter. Is it ok to carefully pull the regulator straight out, backflush the filter , re-oil the o-ring and put the regulator back in? Thanks if I get a quick answer I can do it this afternoon.
New2Street is offline  
post #32 of 50 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 10:59 AM
Novice
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 80
I don't know why Suzuki doesn't want you to pull the regulator out of the filter. I'm fairly sure that you can do it, I happen to have a K7 1000 pump with a very similar "regulator" and have done it. It's no big deal. The drawing in the parts fiche shows the pressure regulator and its O-ring separate from the filter body. But there's no such drawing in the service manual and an admonition to never take it apart. However backflushing the filter is generally a waste of time IMO. Furthermore you've previously performed the flow test and got a reasonable flow rate. It's been years since I removed my regulator but I don't recall being able to then see the filter element inside the housing.

Your acceptable flow rate is why I've been wondering about other explanations.

Last edited by billv; 09-02-2019 at 11:20 AM.
billv is offline  
post #33 of 50 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
Rider
 
New2Street's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 227
ok. I read your information about the set valve and possibly not turning 90 but from pictures I've seen with people's cat cut off of the pipe, it appears that mine opens fully. I could try disconnecting right there at the cat to make sure it is fully open and see if I get any different performance. I know I keep saying it over and over again but when I rev the bike up it definitely sounds restricted or muffled to me so there's got to be either not enough fuel, not enough air flow out of the exhaust or something that's causing it to act like that. it doesn't rev up quick and crisp like it did originally.
New2Street is offline  
post #34 of 50 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 11:27 AM
Novice
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 80
The parts fiche seems to indicate that the cat is integral to the header. Is that correct? If they separate, you could remove the cat and watch the valve turn when you turn the ignition on.

It would also give you a view of the catalyst. But except for mechanical damage, i.e. collapsed honeycomb, I don't know what such a view would provide. My general impression is that the cat is fairly robust.

Last edited by billv; 09-02-2019 at 11:32 AM.
billv is offline  
post #35 of 50 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 11:52 AM Thread Starter
Rider
 
New2Street's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 227
Well the pulley came off easily with a 12 mm socket but once I take the actuator from the cables off and pull the spring the butterfly spins 360 degrees easily. internally the butterfly does not hit any kind of stop to put it fully open.
I realized that it does not appear that my set valve and spring were properly installed. The top portion of the spring was not placed to the left behind the tab on the exhaust pipe, and the other portion of the spring was not hooked onto the faceplate behind an obvious hooked tab of the set valve plate that the cables attach to. Now that common sense told me it should have been set up a different way it appears that at higher RPMs the valve rotates to the right until the stop actually touches the tab built into the exhaust if that makes any sense. I just have to wait for the rain to stop to take it for a ride. And see if there is any improvement.
since neither tab on the ends of the spring were connected to anything it never actually offered any assistance to put the valve in the proper position.

Last edited by New2Street; 09-02-2019 at 12:10 PM.
New2Street is offline  
post #36 of 50 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 12:16 PM Thread Starter
Rider
 
New2Street's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 227
Before with spring ends not touching any tabs
Attached Thumbnails
IMG_20190902_132733~2_1567448155201.jpg  
New2Street is offline  
post #37 of 50 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 12:17 PM Thread Starter
Rider
 
New2Street's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 227
After with spring hooked on tabs and tension available.
Attached Thumbnails
Screenshot_20190902-141232~2_1567448235061.jpg  
New2Street is offline  
post #38 of 50 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 09:52 AM
Novice
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 80
That's awfully strange for the spring to come undone. Hard to figure how it could happen other than by someone's hand. I happened to have a couple pics of a K6 1000 valve, which has a fairly similar construction. Here's the best shot of the spring:


You can see the spring end tight against the left side of the horizontal stop bar and the tab on the pulley tight against the bar's right side. Presumably that's the full open position.

Any chance that your spring sprung loose when you removed the nut, etc?

Last edited by billv; 09-04-2019 at 04:03 PM.
billv is offline  
post #39 of 50 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
Rider
 
New2Street's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 227
Bill,. I'm not sure about the spring. I have the valve motor disconnected now and the spring is spring wide open. I also pulled the #30 brown/BLK wire so I don't get the FI light. Went on a ride, but wasn't on the right roads to ride hard. In some respects the bike ran better, but it still does not sound the same or as peppy. I don't want to cut my throat, but the bike has 16,525 miles. What are the sounds and symptoms if the valves are going out and need to be adjusted? I've heard it starts harder, which is not an issue with my bike. No one has mentioned that yet.
New2Street is offline  
post #40 of 50 (permalink) Old 09-04-2019, 12:56 PM Thread Starter
Rider
 
New2Street's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Western PA
Posts: 227
Billv,. The other thing I have not tried yet is your suggestion for cleaning the other finer filter on the fuel pump, but you said that usually doesn't work?
New2Street is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the GSXR.com forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome