Seized brake pins - GSXR.com
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-10-2019, 02:10 AM Thread Starter
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Seized brake pins

As title says,

I'm trying to clean the front brake calipers and pistons on k4 600 but pins are seized. So far took a whole day of penetrating oil and elbow grease to take one off. Previous owner never put grease on them, tightened them as if his life depended on them, and sure enough they're rusted stuck. I'm hoping it's not a case of galling, which would be a much bigger issue.

If anyone has any more ideas apart from more penetrating oil, heat, hex socket on an impact wrench I'd be happy to hear them, possibly before the heads get rounded off.

Worst case, I could try drill the pin a little bit and use an extractor?

Thanks all, safe riding
Steve
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-10-2019, 03:42 AM
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-13-2019, 08:53 PM
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Plumbers torch and sea foam's deep creep penetrating oil.

Try tapping it with a ball-peen after letting the deep creep sit over night before you try to back them out.

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Last edited by Last Week; 08-13-2019 at 08:56 PM.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 02:09 AM
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If your really stuck (no pun intended) you can take a very small drill bit and drill behind the pin and then tap it out with a nail or very small parallel punch. This is how I've done rear brakes before, but just thought that you may mean its the thread that's stuck?
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-14-2019, 04:37 AM
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Some one used to tell me if the bolt or pin is stuck you need a bigger hammer. Heat the pin with a torch till it’s almost glowing Beat the pin loose with a hammer, it should come out a lot easier with the heat.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-22-2019, 11:09 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks all for the tips, will give an update when I get back home in a few days and have another go at it.

Yes, it's the thread that's stuck. Prev owner put no grease on them before tightening them to the point I'm starting to fear galling.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 07:50 AM Thread Starter
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Managed to get 3 out of 4. The last one won't give up, tried heat, a bigger hammer, impact, swearing at it, you name it. I've given up and decided it must be galled, so I'll drill it through to at least remove the pin and see what happens. I really don't fancy taking the caliper apart every time I change brake pads.. Not amused!
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-27-2019, 11:22 AM
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If you trash it, I have 2 sets of factory front calipers I don't need.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-29-2019, 02:43 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you, I'll keep that in mind for future.

In the meantime, 4th pin refused to come out So I drilled it through. At the moment there's a nut and bolt holding the pads in place. Aside from aesthetics it does the job, at least for now.

Both calipers split, cleaned and changed seals. Found dirt and sludge inside no wonder it braked like shit when I bought it. That's all clean now. System bled, bled and bled, zip tie overnight, and will bleed again just to be sure.

Next:
a) I'm assuming none of the other owners bothered to change brake lines, so ordered a set of braided ones
b) Suzuki have ordered the parts and I will be getting the mc recall done

Hoping this will help with the slight spongy feeling.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-31-2019, 02:48 PM
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It's probably too late now but there are inductive heaters that are used for removing seized bolts that might have worked. They're expensive enough that you'd have to find a local shop with one.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-01-2019, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the tip, didn't even know what it was before I looked it up.

Not much use in this case though since the pin is countersunk? Unless that thing comes with a pointed element
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-01-2019, 02:56 PM
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Inductive heaters are powerful enough the you'd have to be careful about not melting the aluminum caliper boss. You can see what's possible
. Note how they heat the portion of the bolt that's inside the block.

An alternate method specifically for steel studs stuck in aluminum is shown
. The use of a car battery seems a bit redneck, i.e. couldn't they use their welder as a source of electric current? In your case you could disassemble the caliper and use the unthreaded portion of the pin to connect the clamp to. Building up the stud with weld would then be unnecessary. But I gather that it's too late for you do do that now.

Last edited by billv; 09-02-2019 at 10:35 AM.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-02-2019, 11:08 PM Thread Starter
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Careful drilling seemed to me a better solution. From previous experience, after ham fisted people where steel bolts into Alu is concerned, the likely result is galling of the thread which is not solved by heat.

In the end, I managed not to touch the thread on the caliper while drilling hoping to get it out somehow, but the pin still wouldn't come out with more heat and an extractor.

Got the hole wide enough to use a ss bolt and nut same thickness of the pin. Not the best option but it works.

Now waiting to get the braided lines and the mc recall done.
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