C14 code after throttle body remove/replace - GSXR.com
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 02:52 PM Thread Starter
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C14 code after throttle body remove/replace

New to GSXRs here- my wife bought a derelict '06 600 for some unknown purpose.
It was gushing coolant into the oil via a popped freeze plug after track day prep by previous owner... who then forgot about it for a few years in his father's garage.
Don't worry, the price was right.
So I got in there and pulled the cams, replaced the center plug, put back together, and then it all went wrong.
There's a lot of stuff amiss with this bike but once I got it started for the purpose of four flushing oil changes, it actually ran halfway decent.
However, after my pulling the throttle bodies off and replacing them, now I get a lousy 2000rpm idle and the C14 code.
Let's say maybe somehow I got careless and the TPS plug got connected to the fuel pump plug. They are identical and I looked at wire colors instead of marking each pair as I should have.
Guess I blew the TPS, maybe?
Suggestions and insights welcomed. Derogatory remarks about my wrenching probably due but won't exceed the ones I've already applied.
Thanks.
Bill
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 05:39 PM
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I don't know which plugs exactly, but I've read that two of the plugs in that area are the same and can be mixed up.

If you hooked up 12v across the TPS it is likely you fried it. It is just a potentiometer and there is a test with an ohmmeter in the service manual.

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-07-2019, 05:36 AM
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The STPS and fuel pump can be reversed. C14 is the primary TPS. Most likey, you just missed connecting it.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-07-2019, 05:46 AM Thread Starter
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Missed

Huh. Well, back into the nether regions I go. Thanks.
The tough thing is lacking a correct manual. I bought one on Ebay but it has yet to arrive. The online ones don't seem to be quite the exact year and model.
Which reminds me: when I first opened up the bike, the secondary plates were closed. I noticed that once I was reassembling, the secondaries were open and remain so. Again, lacking the manual, I can't tell if that's a correct occurrence.

Last edited by Cherryriver; 09-07-2019 at 05:48 AM.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-07-2019, 07:44 AM
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^ Chuckster is the guru on these systems.

If you posted an email address something might happen.

Yes, the wiring diagram in the back of the factory service manuals is very helpful to confirm the correct wire colors going each component.

Regarding the secondaries, you can move them by hand with the bike off so the position they are in when the bike is off is not important.

On cold power up, they generally cycle from whereever they are to full open. This actuates the fast idle cam on the left side. After the bike runs for a short bit, they close and the idle goes to normal.

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If you think reading is tricky, how the hell are you going to follow troubleshooting directions?
"Riding well is difficult, riding poorly is easy and painful."
- Nick Ienatsch


"We're all here because we're not all there" - Guy Favron on Gold Rush

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-07-2019, 07:46 AM
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@Chuckster In your experience does hooking up the STPS and Fuel pump connectors backwards cause damage? I know I've read about it a few times, but no one has mentioned damaging components.

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If you think reading is tricky, how the hell are you going to follow troubleshooting directions?
"Riding well is difficult, riding poorly is easy and painful."
- Nick Ienatsch


"We're all here because we're not all there" - Guy Favron on Gold Rush

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-07-2019, 12:40 PM
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I've never heard of damage. I have seen several people make the mistake and then once corrected report all is well. Partially curious why a new throttle body was needed.....
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-07-2019, 01:00 PM
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I've just noticed that the pins on the fuel pump connector are oriented horizontally while the STV sensor pins are vertical. So it shouldn't be possible to misconnect them. The pins are also horizontal on the EXCVA connector. However the GPS connector is the same as the STV sensor so that should be possible. But because of the way that male and female are used, I don't think that much would happen.

But I'm inclined to agree with Chuckster that C14 is likely an unconnected primary.

Last edited by billv; 09-07-2019 at 02:21 PM. Reason: Major rewrite after noticing the horizontal/vertical issue
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-07-2019, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
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I've never heard of damage. I have seen several people make the mistake and then once corrected report all is well. Partially curious why a new throttle body was needed.....
I read "after my pulling the throttle bodies off and replacing them" as he having removed and reinstalled the same throttle body. I could be wrong.

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If you think reading is tricky, how the hell are you going to follow troubleshooting directions?
"Riding well is difficult, riding poorly is easy and painful."
- Nick Ienatsch


"We're all here because we're not all there" - Guy Favron on Gold Rush

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-07-2019, 02:11 PM
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I guess I read it as replaced with a different set, not just a reinstall.
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-07-2019, 02:45 PM
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We will know if he makes it to post #3

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckster View Post
If you think reading is tricky, how the hell are you going to follow troubleshooting directions?
"Riding well is difficult, riding poorly is easy and painful."
- Nick Ienatsch


"We're all here because we're not all there" - Guy Favron on Gold Rush

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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-07-2019, 04:01 PM Thread Starter
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Well, we were out riding all day, She on her SV650 and me on my ZRX. Good weather here.
I did indeed miss the connector to the throttle position sensor. Plugging it in eliminated the code.
Now, back to the real problems with the bike. (Milkshake everywhere plus a new oil leak from re-using old gaskets during the cam pull to install the adrift freeze plug).
I do appreciate the answers and pointers. Saved me a lot of time and goofing around.
Plus! A rumpled old service manual was in the mailbox when we got home. Being on the correct track is really good for trains and amateur wrenches.
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-08-2019, 07:27 AM Thread Starter
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With things put back together, I allowed the bike to sit overnight. While I'd gotten a clear "00" no-code, today when I started it up, I got the "FI"/temp indication along with the red light lit.
I set the jumper to check the codes and it came back "C00". Yet the FI remains while running. Since yesterday re-connecting the missed connector cleared the code and the "FI" indication, I thought I was home free. Guess not.
I will try running through some searches to see if there's an answer.
And that Ebay service manual turns out to missing pages 4-105 through 8-02. I got a refund, but it's still not a helpful thing.
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-08-2019, 02:26 PM
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Leave he bike in dealer mode and ride it till the fault shows up. It will not hurt anything.

Do you have an email address?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckster View Post
If you think reading is tricky, how the hell are you going to follow troubleshooting directions?
"Riding well is difficult, riding poorly is easy and painful."
- Nick Ienatsch


"We're all here because we're not all there" - Guy Favron on Gold Rush

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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-08-2019, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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Okay, it appears I managed to get rid of the codes and all.
But should I see them again, I will do as you suggest.
Hard to do much test riding since the Missus has yet to get to the DMV and I'm a little shy about making new friends on the roadside. Hoping for a plate Tuesday.
I am at bill at cherryriver dot com
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 10:54 AM
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"I set the jumper to check the codes and it came back "C00". Yet the FI remains while running. Since yesterday re-connecting the missed connector cleared the code and the "FI" indication,"
"today when I started it up, I got the "FI"/temp indication along with the red light lit"

It's not clear to me exactly what's going on. First, the codes will clear if you turn the ignition off. You must either go into dealer mode without turning the engine off or put it into dealer mode and wait for a code to appear again. I leave my dealer mode switch connected all the time and have a second key so that I can open the rear compartment and throw the switch without shutting down. Riding with dealer mode on is fine as long as you're sure that you don't have an overheating problem, as you lose the temperature display in dealer mode. Finally, the red LED also comes on from high temperature or low oil pressure. These conditions are accompanied by the appearance of small icons on the display that can be overlooked. But FI won't be shown. Your tales of milkshake and a loose freeze plug make me wonder about oil pressure.

Last edited by billv; 09-09-2019 at 11:01 AM.
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 09-09-2019, 11:39 AM Thread Starter
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The oil pressure light was due to the pressure switch being clogged with amalgam.
I was positive I had good oil pressure: I used an old trick. I re-installed the cam chain tensioner with the old, not-good gasket, and oil gushed out freely and convincingly.
So I had gotten the other code then after clearing it, didn't get it back. But those other things were going on.
Dealing with a derelict is like trying to bring order to a roomful of chimpanzees. Two eyes and two hands are nowhere near enough. This bike has wrong stuff going on all over the place.
Since, however, the proper connections were restored and there is a C00 in the window now. On to the (numerous) other problems.
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