hey im running a k5 gsxr 750. im trying to find the stock specs on what the bike was running for sprocket teeth. my mac wont display any manual ive tried downloading. right now im running stock rear with a down 2 front. im considering changing back and running a split between front and rear instead of all down front. what would be the advantages to this and disadvantages? the reason for the change is the 2 down front is causing chain drag on my swingarm. trying to pull the chain up a bit by adding 1 more tooth in front. Also if anyone knows about a manual for the k5 750 that will work on a mac id love it. thanks.

https://www.gsxr.com/showthread.php?t=33716 for the manual

If the stock mac pdf reader can't decode it (it shouldn't have a problem, even the built-in one on linux can decode all pdf's these days), grab acrobat for mac off adobe's site.

-2 in the front tends to increase chain wear as well as the obvious acceleration advantages.

-1 front, +2 back would provide the same acceleration increase while reducing chain wear.

I had a couple questions about this topic also. I understand, that putting a smaller sprocket on the front would help acceleration (putting the engine at higher rpm), but what is the effect of the rear sprocket?? And also, how could you gauge chain wear with this??

I wouldn't go anything more than down 1 in the front for wear purposes, but that's just me. If you really want the power, chains aren't ALL that expensive.

Increasing the number of teeth in the rear socket has the same effect (though not as pronounced) as reducing in the front.

For every 2.5 teeth or so you add in back, it's just like removing a tooth up front.

Ohh, ok...so people that put -1 front and +2 back, is just to keep the same size chain?? I think I get it now, thanx Lude

Sort of a moot point, rule of thumb is, if you do the sprockets, do the chain.

-1,+2 should be the same size though, yes.

Stock gearing on a K5 750 is 16/43. The whole reason behind going -1/+2 is so that you can keep the stock chain length (110 links) since the reduction in the front diameter offsets the increase in the rear diameter by about the same ratio. However, you really don't want to re-use the same chain, or you will get rapid wear on both the chain and sprockets after you change them.

My personal opinion is that a gearing reduction doesn't really have the same benefit on a 750 that it has on a 600, and the tradeoff between a quicker off the line launch and highway economy isn't worth it.

any one know what the rpm increase would be going -1 +2 on an 07 600? I don't really want to go down the highway screaming 8000 at 65mph. has any one done a -1+1 change out? plus I'll be going to a 520 set.

this is a topic that im having a hard time deciding what i want to do. when i had my K1 600 I went -1 +2 which equaled out to a 15-47 which equaled a final drive of 3.13. now i have a K7 750 and wanna do the same thing. I know what i want my final drive ratio to be which is 3.00. now I have several options. my stock gearing is 17-45 which equals a final drive of 2.65. now to acheive my 3.00 i could go to a 15-45, 16-48, or a 17-51. now Im planning to keep a 525 setup but i am getting a new chain. what im confused about is would it be better to leave the front sprocket alone and just up the rear or should i change both?

I have an 05 750 that I now use as a track bike. I started off by going 16/44 when i rode it on the street. Some of the books will show the bike coming with a 17/42 set up, mine had the 17/43, which I found out when installing the new one. My opinion is that you if you are going to change gearing, go down 1 up front, then fine tune it with the rear to get it where you want it. The rear is much easier to change and makes smaller changes. To large of a rear sprocket can limit future options in gearing because you will need a longer chain just to get it on the bike. If you try to go down on the rear after that you will probably run out of adjustment.
I did a track day on Memorial Day at Streets of Willow and i started with a 16/44. Good pull, but i found myself only using 2nd and 3rd gear, 4th at the top of the straight. It was a little hard to get a good charged out of the corners and keep up with the litre bikes. At lunch I switched it out to a 16/46. This worked outstanding! It gave me a greater range of use of my gearbox, excellent charge out of the corners, kept the revs up and allowed me to pull the litre bikes up the straight.
I picked up an extra cush drive, the part of the rear wheel the sprocket mounts to, off of e-bay to mount an extra sprocket to so i can make quick changes at the track. That along with a set of Gilles chain adjusters was key to quick and easy mods during lunch. With a 16/46*525 my axel sits almost all the way forward. I can then slide it back and still have enough room to adjust for a 43 or 42.
I have an excellent Excel spreadsheet that was passed on to me that breaks all this down. Input in your tranny ratios, tire size, power band, redline, front and rear sprockets and PRESTO! It will tell top speed in each gear, final ratios, shift up and down points and all kinds of stuff. If someone will tellme how to make it available to all of you i would like to, it is a great tool. Or i will send it to someone who knows how to post it.
Sorry for the long winded reply, but this is something i have spent some time on lately.

Hello Rock,

I would suggest you do a -1/+3 setup so that you can always fine tine the rear sprocket to the exact final drive ratio that you desire. Also, this should cut down on wear whereas -2 in the front or +6 in the rear would do the opposite. That is just my two cents though, take it with a grain of salt.

I was running a -1 front, stock rear, and a stock chain. Worked just fine. If you change a sprocket, do all 3 at once.

I also just went back to stock (16/42 for 01 750) and I like it a lot better. Lower RPM's and less jerky.

Also please check out the Tech FAQ section on gearing. There is a whole lot of information there, including gearing calculation spreadsheets. FYI 01-03 750 rear is 42 tooth, and 04-05 750 is 43.

Self correction: Stock 01-03 750's have a 17 tooth front. Above I wrote it had 16 (Was thinking about the -1)

Im running -1/+2 on my 750 stretched 8inches and it pulls very nicely, I rode my friends 750 stock and its like a different animal. BTW I put an aftermarket chain on a year ago and I have not seen much wear, if any at all.

why does everyone insist on telling people to change all three if youre only modding one sprocket?. i have 500 miles on my bike but according to most people if i change my front sprocket i need to get a new chain and a new rear sprocket. this is retarded. not everyone wants a 520 setup, i personally am just fine with a 525 chain, its what came on the bike in the first place plus its stronger and the rotational mass you lose is so minute that 95% of the people on this forum couldnt tell the difference anyway. but to cofegsxr thank you for you input because you actually know what youre talking about. oh and why does every squid on earth have to buy a gsxr and join this forum? cant they go get a bike no one likes like a kawi or somethin?

It's not retarded at all..... chain and sprokets wear together as a set. As soon as you throw a new one in the mix so to speak it causes accelerated wear on the others. So if you want to get maximum life changing them as a set is the way to go.

how in the lords name does a brand new sprocket make the chain and other sprocket wear faster. that makes no sense at all. id really like to get an educated answer to that one. not just some back yard mechanics talk.

Wear patterns. The 3 parts have contacted each other enough times to where they are somewhat similar (a wear pattern). Give or take. Adding a brand new item to a package that was set up for each other is now going add a new wear pattern for the 3 items to become somewhat identical. Thus the old parts will now have gone through 2 wear patterns, making logic of excessive wear.

That's the break down of it.

Thanks Neo I thought "wear together as a set" was fairly easy to understand.

Hey man.....if you would of spent as much time trying to comprehend as you did being a prick about a answer you didn't want to hear you might of got it

Oh Im sorry, i joined this forum back when you could actually get good info and people werent all squids. now this place is full of 1K buyin noobs who post a thread about how they wrecked their bike 2 weeks after they got it cuz they wanted to do a 100 mph wheelie down a dirt road. seriously though, ive been ridin bikes since i was 6 street bikes since i was 18 so thats 7 years on a street bike and 19 years motorcycles period. i know what im talking about and what i dont know i ask. and when you have friends that build ama superbikes and they tell you one thing and someone on here who just started riding 2 weeks ago says something im gonna go against it. so yeah go ahead call me a prick and ill call you a squid since you wanna call names. have a great day and hope you enjoy riding in flip flops and a wife beater with no helmet on so ya get a good tan. peace.

Arrogance is bliss.

How much would it set your rear tire back when you replace the front with a -1?

I ask because I plan on doing it. I got a new sprocket and just want to get the feel before I go to doing a whole new set up which I plan on doing at the same time of new tires..

(I post here for the FYI for anyone else looking)

Good info to know, I think my rear sprocket is a 43 but I been looking around for what it was stock.

Hi,
Here is a link I use to figure out gearing. It has many bikes is easy to use. http://www.gearingcommander.com/

I went -1 on the front on my 1000 and had to move the tire back one adjustment line on the swing arm.

Later
JIGGIE

thanks jiggie, good link, it was dead on, i run -1, +3 and the speeds and rpms matched exactly

Awesome. I hope to get about the same, I already have it set back pretty far, just wanted to make sure I wasn't looking to move it that much further back.

Thanks man.

im an 04 gsxr 600 and my stock was 15/45 i believe, went -1/+4 and like it quite a bit. Im comfortable enough to take it 3 hours to KC this weekend on the interstate. And while racing some buddies it felt perfect. I can still launch pretty decently and redline shift to second pulls the front up for a bit but nothing scary.