STVA and -C28 error codes k4-k7 600/750 - Page 4 - GSXR.com
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post #121 of 162 (permalink) Old 01-16-2016, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
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Full open (or near it). That's what engages fast idle on prestart.
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post #122 of 162 (permalink) Old 01-16-2016, 06:20 PM
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Full open (or near it). That's what engages fast idle on prestart.
Which is odd because my bike doesn't fast idle even though my secondaries are open. I just saw a vid where the guy turned on the key and the secondaries close and then open back up. It makes me think there is something wrong with mine because mine barely move, and even though this is my first k7 600 it almost feels like I have to hit over 4000 rpms in 1st to even move
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post #123 of 162 (permalink) Old 01-17-2016, 07:45 AM Thread Starter
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Unplug the STVA main connector and turn them full open. Then go ride. If it's still "restricted" fueling is your problem. Should run like a raped ape with them fixed open. Have you ridden it in dealer mode? Getting any codes?
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post #124 of 162 (permalink) Old 01-17-2016, 10:10 AM
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Unplug the STVA main connector and turn them full open. Then go ride. If it's still "restricted" fueling is your problem. Should run like a raped ape with them fixed open. Have you ridden it in dealer mode? Getting any codes?
Nope I haven't ran it but 3 miles because of the weather and wanting to be sure the engine is running right. I don't have a FI light but I will put it in dealermode today. I live in Evansville, and last I checked we have more white BS falling today. Will riding with the Stva main connector unplugged throw a code?
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post #125 of 162 (permalink) Old 01-19-2016, 06:55 AM Thread Starter
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Nope I haven't ran it but 3 miles because of the weather and wanting to be sure the engine is running right. I don't have a FI light but I will put it in dealermode today. I live in Evansville, and last I checked we have more white BS falling today. Will riding with the Stva main connector unplugged throw a code?
Yes, it will throw C28. But, if you cycle them open by hand after you unplug it, it won't restrict the bike.
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post #126 of 162 (permalink) Old 01-21-2016, 09:31 PM
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Just wanted to give Chuckster a HUGE shoutout in here. I shipped my parts off to him months, probably years ago and then fell off the face of the earth. He still got them back to me timely when I needed them. We'll see if it fixed the problem soon!!

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post #127 of 162 (permalink) Old 05-14-2016, 04:01 PM
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Can anyone provide me with the instruction sheet that Chuck posted in the Zip files?? I can't open them for some reason
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post #128 of 162 (permalink) Old 05-15-2016, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
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Fresh uploads.
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File Type: zip k6-k7_testing.zip (30.4 KB, 26 views)
File Type: zip k4-k5_Testing.zip (73.8 KB, 27 views)
File Type: zip k4-k5_wiring.zip (88.6 KB, 17 views)
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post #129 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-21-2016, 08:47 PM
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Mr Chuckster, aka the Geek, I am having an issue with my 07 750. I now have the C28 & C29 codes.

I was just getting the C28 code at the track with the FI light as well. I was able to adjust the TPS and the light would go away. The bike would run normal. I would put the bike in dealer mode and that dash would be off. I would adjust it to dead center. Now the dash is dead center and the bike is throwing both C28 & C29 with the FI light as well. I have a track weekend coming up 7/2 & 7/3 and need this fixed ASAP. Any ideas????
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post #130 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-22-2016, 06:18 AM Thread Starter
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Sounds like you're confused and adjusted the STPS rather than the TPS. The STPS is mounted directly to the STVA. The TPS is mounted directly to the throttle body below the STVA. The dash adjustment is only for the TPS. When you adjusted the STPS by mistake, you threw it out of calibration and caused C29.

C28 on the 06/07 models are usually caused by a loose connection in the harness, a contaminated STPS, or a fault in the STVA itself. The only good news I can offer is that the STVA plug on the 06/07 faces up and makes testing the STVA directly pretty easy. Make sure you have two distinct 7 Ohms circuits.
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post #131 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-22-2016, 07:12 AM
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When I put the bike in dealer mode, the dash (COO) was at the top. I adjusted that star shaped screw and aligned the dash dead center in the middle. The C28 code and FI light went away. The bike ran fine. The next track day the light and code C28 & C29 came on in the afternoon near the end of the day. The dash was in the middle but the bike was not running right.

I am pretty sure I adjusted the TPS sensor, I moved it slightly until the dash was dead center.

I will borrow a friends multi meter and test the STVA like you said.
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post #132 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-22-2016, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by JFM GSXR 750 View Post
When I put the bike in dealer mode, the dash (COO) was at the top. I adjusted that star shaped screw and aligned the dash dead center in the middle.
Your in good hands, but what "star shaped screw" did you adjust? Pic of said screw?

The TPS is adjusted by loosening the two screws holding it and gently rotating the sensor housing.
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post #133 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-22-2016, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
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Your in good hands, but what "star shaped screw" did you adjust? Pic of said screw?

The TPS is adjusted by loosening the two screws holding it and gently rotating the sensor housing.
Only one screw for the TPS on an 07.
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post #134 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-22-2016, 01:19 PM
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Only one screw for the TPS on an 07.
Fair cop

The way he phrased the sentence lead me to belive he might be adjusting something else. I was guessing the idle speed screw, but I guess we'll find out.

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post #135 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-22-2016, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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Fair cop

The way he phrased the sentence lead me to belive he might be adjusting something else. I was guessing the idle speed screw, but I guess we'll find out.
I think he's adjusting the STPS.
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post #136 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-22-2016, 06:01 PM
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Here is a pic of the star shaped screw I adjusted. It sits under the STVA, it looks IMO
to be the TPS sensor. The screw driver is pointed towards it.
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post #137 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-22-2016, 07:01 PM
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This is a pic of where that dash is sitting dead center.
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post #138 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-23-2016, 07:15 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, then you're adjusting the right sensor for the "dash". I'll assume you're adjusting that with the bike fully warmed up and idling.....

For C28 and C29, adjusting that sensor is completely unrelated. Considering all the information you've provided, I think you probably just have a loose connection. With both C28 and C29 codes popping up, start with eliminating C29. Then if C28 still persists, check the wiring for the STVA. Usually the loose connection is at the ECU.
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post #139 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-23-2016, 07:18 AM
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Question

The multi meter I borrowed, the leads are too big too fit on the progs on the STVA. I will see if I can borrow a smaller one.

The throttle bodies are pretty much opening on start up and slowly closing. But it doesn't look consistent. If I leave the STVA unplugged and the throttle bodies fully open, what will be the result? Fast idle and burning allot of gas? I am sure this will make the bike run hotter. Don't want to do a track day in this condition. I have 2 days coming up next weekend.
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post #140 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-23-2016, 07:25 AM
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Ok, then you're adjusting the right sensor for the "dash". I'll assume you're adjusting that with the bike fully warmed up and idling.....

For C28 and C29, adjusting that sensor is completely unrelated. Considering all the information you've provided, I think you probably just have a loose connection. With both C28 and C29 codes popping up, start with eliminating C29. Then if C28 still persists, check the wiring for the STVA. Usually the loose connection is at the ECU.
Ok I will look for a loose connection. I will check the ECU and everywhere there is a wire!!!

THANKS!!!!
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post #141 of 162 (permalink) Old 07-08-2016, 08:51 AM
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Hey Chuckster, could you email me the zip file for my bike? I tried opening the ones that you posted, but was unable too. My email address is [email protected]. Again, thanks for all of your help!!
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post #142 of 162 (permalink) Old 08-17-2016, 05:09 PM
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...i have a problem.with my gsxr 600 k5...i repaird the stva ...put it back on the bike but it seems like it doesent pull properly it runs rich...i have read the service manual but i cannot understand how to measure the 1.6ohm from the stp sensor. Do i have to take the stva off the bike because i canot acces the pin from the senzor ...i read the tp sensor adjustment is prety easy by looking at the dealer mode dash and making it stay at the middle line (its t the top at the moment) but do i have to do it with the bike runing because it is invonvenient because of the positioning of the sensor......but the trouble is with thaat dam stp sensor...do you have any pics that can show me how to measure the resistence please...it been 3 weaks alredy of studying the service manuals but the black and white pics are not to helpfull....thank you and sorry for my bad english

Here is my email for any info about stp and ts adjunsting nounting and testing coloured pics would be helpfull

[email protected]

Thank you very much
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post #143 of 162 (permalink) Old 08-17-2016, 07:32 PM
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...i have a problem.with my gsxr 600 k5...i repaird the stva ...put it back on the bike but it seems like it doesent pull properly it runs rich...i have read the service manual but i cannot understand how to measure the 1.6ohm from the stp sensor. Do i have to take the stva off the bike because i canot acces the pin from the senzor ...i read the tp sensor adjustment is prety easy by looking at the dealer mode dash and making it stay at the middle line (its t the top at the moment) but do i have to do it with the bike runing because it is invonvenient because of the positioning of the sensor......but the trouble is with thaat dam stp sensor...do you have any pics that can show me how to measure the resistence please...it been 3 weaks alredy of studying the service manuals but the black and white pics are not to helpfull....thank you and sorry for my bad english

Here is my email for any info about stp and ts adjunsting nounting and testing coloured pics would be helpfull

[email protected]

Thank you very much
Are you sure that you have the IAP (Intake air pressure) sensor hooked back up? That will cause it to run rich and you are working in that area.

Post an intro, with pics of your bike, in the "new riders and members" section when you get a chance.

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If you think reading is tricky, how the hell are you going to follow troubleshooting directions?
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post #144 of 162 (permalink) Old 08-18-2016, 03:12 AM
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yes everythimg is conected...no error on dssh...
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post #145 of 162 (permalink) Old 08-18-2016, 08:24 AM Thread Starter
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It's pretty difficult to do without a test harness, or removing the throttle body. Before I made my own test harness, I would just clip small gator clips on the leads, then touch my probes to the clips.
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post #146 of 162 (permalink) Old 08-18-2016, 08:43 AM
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yes everythimg is conected...no error on dssh...
Sorry, I meant the hose connecting the IAP to the throttle body. I don't think that would throw a code but the bike would think it was WOT and fuel accordingly.

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post #147 of 162 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 12:34 PM
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Hey Chuckster, I know this is an old sticky however, when I go to replace my STVA back on the throttle body with the STVA turned all the way counter clockwise (2006 K7) the secondarys would be full closed according to the shaft orientation. Your write up on page one seems to say they should be open. Am I reading it wrong or should I just go with the shaft orientation??
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post #148 of 162 (permalink) Old 04-22-2017, 02:06 PM Thread Starter
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Probably a misunderstanding of perspective. When the STVA is remove and you're looking into the hole, counter clockwise is fully open. Then turn the secondaries open so the fast idle cam on the opposite end should be in contact with the follower at the widest point.

So, if that doesn't line things up, my next question is did you take it apart? If so, take a picture and I'll tell you if you assembled it wrong.
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post #149 of 162 (permalink) Old 09-05-2017, 12:21 PM
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Hello, Chuckster. I picked up a k5 GSXR600, and a little time ago, the FI code showed up. I put it in dealer mode and showed code -C28. Can you help me out? The guy that usually repairs stuff like this, tells me to change it, but I want to see for myself that it is damaged beyond repair so I can be sure to order a new one.
I read that you send someone some documents. Will those help me out to disect the problem? I am a little fed up that my bike loses power in the low-mid range and does not go off flying when I go full throttle.
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post #150 of 162 (permalink) Old 09-05-2017, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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Usually on the 04/05, the STVA error code is the STVA. But' it's not a certainty. A bad STPS, the wiring harness, or ECU can all be other causes.
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post #151 of 162 (permalink) Old 09-05-2017, 01:53 PM
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I replaced the whole main wiring harness and ECU some time ago, it had some trouble to run the gas pump so I replaced ir completely. I would have to check the STPS and the STVA altogether? What do I need to look for?
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post #152 of 162 (permalink) Old 09-06-2017, 06:04 AM Thread Starter
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First, test the STVA. If it passes the tests, check the STPS.

There are two circuits for the STVA itself (4 pins). If you look at the picture below, the two pins indicated are the "left" circuit, and the other two are the "right" circuit. You should read about 7 ohms for each one. This test is typically enough to reveal an STVA issue.



Before you remove the STVA, make sure the secondary throttle valves are fully closed. Then don't move it or the STVA positioning prior to reinstall. This is the only position that the STVA can be properly reinstalled.
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post #153 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-12-2018, 05:30 AM
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Files for K6/7 test

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If your bike is showing an error code, it is in limp mode. The fact it runs doesn't mean it's not.

Usually on the 06-07 bikes, the C28 code is caused by an ECU fault. There are cases where it is the STVA itself, by they're pretty rare. How did you check the STVA operation? Sometimes, it's possible for the sensor to be faulty and the error logic on the bike detect it as a problem with the actuator instead. Sensor issues are displayed as C29. When the sensors fail a certain way, the system just believes the secondaries are jammed up and throws C28 instead. Start by testing the secondary throttle position sensor resistance. You should be able to find two wires that read about 0.6 kOhms fully closed up to about 5kOhms fully open. You should also find two wires with a static value no matter what position. If that's good, your issue is most likely the ECU.

Do you have a friend with a 2006 or 2007 600 or 750? You can swap the ECUs briefly for a quick function test. No need to start the bike, just see if the error condition changes.
This post is just what is needed after I had a loss of power at the track last weekend and got the C28 error. Very well written. many thanks. Sorry to trouble you over this again but my computer wont open the zip files either. not sure why. I feel I have got the ecu issue and need to check the STVA according to your instructions. [email protected]

thanks
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post #154 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-12-2018, 07:50 AM Thread Starter
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Some fresh links.....

STPS installation and testing for the k6-k7 GSXR: K6-K7 STPS
STVA testing for the k6-k7 GSXR: K6-K7_STVA_testing

The testing is not absolute. There can be loose connections between the harness and modules. Very difficult to troubleshoot and correct these conditions.
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post #155 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-12-2018, 08:13 PM
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Bypass?

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Some fresh links.....

STPS installation and testing for the k6-k7 GSXR: K6-K7 STPS
STVA testing for the k6-k7 GSXR: K6-K7_STVA_testing

The testing is not absolute. There can be loose connections between the harness and modules. Very difficult to troubleshoot and correct these conditions.
You, kind sir, are a gem! Got them this time. Same test as the Haynes manual I have. I have an open circuit on C/D. Not repairable I presume? I dismantled the STVA and everything is clean an visibly in good condition. Could it be the solder to the pcb?

The reason for my in depth questioning is that my bike sits in a garage at Sepang gp circuit and I live in Western Australia and travel to and fro. I have limited time frames and resources for repairs even though I am quite capable of using the right knowledge which you have generously provided in this case. I have to set myself up with parts and plan prior to travelling accordingly.

So in a worst case scenario at the track without parts, if I jam the secondary butterflies open (cable tie, I drilled the cam plate before I flew out) and disconnect the STVA what’s the effect? Just high idle, a bit of a loss of low end and a C28 error? The bike was running pretty well for a day near pb, even though the light was on but after it lost top end on the second day I opened the air box to discover the secondary butterflies part closed down which made sense. Something must have moved somehow which may also suggest broken wire. This all occurred following a low speed 65kmh low side T1 Sepang from the previous trip in March which cracked the tail fairing near to the ecu.

Btw yes I am female but I am an engineer who knows a fair bit about mechanicals and electrics and rides reasonably fast. 2:22-2:24 on a near standard K7 750. I try to to do all my own maintenance and repair as I only have myself to blame if it goes pear shaped.

Thanks so much again for this thread and your very kind assistance in a frustrating quest for a solution.
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post #156 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-12-2018, 11:37 PM
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you can also take a Phillips screwdriver, and just remove the butterfly plates and leave everything else connected. Just get a little bag for the screws and plates so you don't lose them. It's probably easier to do it that way at least that's what I've done and it took about 15 mins.
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post #157 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-13-2018, 02:25 AM
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you can also take a Phillips screwdriver, and just remove the butterfly plates and leave everything else connected. Just get a little bag for the screws and plates so you don't lose them. It's probably easier to do it that way at least that's what I've done and it took about 15 mins.
Interesting option especially if the throttle body is still in place. Did you leave the spindle position on fast idle or not? What difference if any did you detect in the performance. Mine is track dedicated only so rarely goes below 6k while out on the track so 2k idle is palatable.

Thanks for your comment
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post #158 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-13-2018, 07:15 AM Thread Starter
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As long as the FI warning is on, you won't have optimal performance.

Open circuits on the k6 and newer are different from the k5 and older models. The manufacturer of the stepper motor changed the design, but introduced another flaw. The winding leads come straight up and make a 90 degree bend to the solder pool on the PCB. On the previous design, they had a loop around the support posts and allowed them to flex. This new design has no flex and the wires fatigue right at that 90 degree bend and break. It's not a common failure, but of the 06 and newer units with an open circuit, this has been the case for all but one. The real nut buster is that the one that usually breaks is on the start of the winding and you can't pull out any slack. They're fixable, but we're talking a high skill level to even attempt it. The wire is tiny, coated, and you only have about 3-4mm to work with.
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post #159 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-18-2018, 07:36 AM
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broken at the solder pool

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As long as the FI warning is on, you won't have optimal performance.

Open circuits on the k6 and newer are different from the k5 and older models. The manufacturer of the stepper motor changed the design, but introduced another flaw. The winding leads come straight up and make a 90 degree bend to the solder pool on the PCB. On the previous design, they had a loop around the support posts and allowed them to flex. This new design has no flex and the wires fatigue right at that 90 degree bend and break. It's not a common failure, but of the 06 and newer units with an open circuit, this has been the case for all but one. The real nut buster is that the one that usually breaks is on the start of the winding and you can't pull out any slack. They're fixable, but we're talking a high skill level to even attempt it. The wire is tiny, coated, and you only have about 3-4mm to work with.
just took a closer look and you are absolutely correct. broken just at the solder pool where it bends straight in. the other one is wound around the post. so in theory running the solder pool down into the slot in the pcb should fix it but ends up with perpetuating the same design issue. a better solution would be to splice a wire and run it around the other post prior to joining back to the solder pool. that looks a bit difficult.
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post #160 of 162 (permalink) Old 06-18-2018, 11:45 PM
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Managed to fix it! yay! thanks so much for your valuable assistance. I know what to look for and how to rectify it if required.
Cheers
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