Building a 2002 GSX-R 1000 - GSXR.com
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-18-2017, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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Building a 2002 GSX-R 1000

This will be my first motorcycle. Yes, I know a 1000cc is a lot of bike for a newbie. I've already taken the MSF course and have my M endorsement now. It's all about throttle control.

The story behind the bike...

My friend has been riding for a very long time. He was working on a 2002 GSX-R 1000, and kept buying parts to get his finished. Lots of parts. He ended up with enough for a (almost) whole other bike.

I'd been bitching to him about how much I am spending in diesel every month just driving to and from work (250-300 bucks) and he mentioned he's got enough parts for another bike, and would make me a hell of a deal. It would save me lots of fuel costs.

He wasn't joking about a hell of a deal. So now I have a pile of parts to work with... It'd kind of like a jigsaw puzzle with both your eyes closed sometimes, but I have the Clymer book for it and his bike to look at while he is in the process of moving.

I am going through the wiring harness at the moment, and checking all the connectors to make sure there's no broken wires, no bad insulation, etc. Then I will re-loom the whole harness and get this thing on the road.

I've been lurking around the forums for a couple weeks and decided it was time to say hi. Thanks for having a great place to talk about these bikes!

For some reason I can't figure out how to put images in the post, so here's a couple links:


https://www.dropbox.com/s/1yvvtlajt6...94711.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/10ddgkp28w...85631.jpg?dl=0
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-11-2018, 10:54 PM Thread Starter
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Finally some progress.

The engine is back together and in the frame. Had to mess with the internal shifting mechanism, the return spring was not installed right and the shifter would not return back to position. I was glad to find out the transmission has already been undercut.

I am trying to decide how to paint the tank, front, and tail. It had a wrap, but the tank wrap was messed up and had to be removed (there was some surface rust under it). I think the wrap on the front fairing was messed up too, because it was peeled off. I don't want to leave it black, that's a bad color for AZ summers.

Gonna get working on the wiring this weekend and get the stator / clutch / starter covers put on.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-12-2018, 06:21 AM
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Nice project. If you don't have the wiring in yet, there is a section in the OEM service manual showing the original routing that might be very helpful.

It should be in chapter 10 "Servicing Information" instead of the electrical chapter.

Just my opinion, but starting out on a 1k sport bike is only partially about power and throttle control. You add in narrow bars, tucked in riding position and the weight of the bike and I believe it hinders progress learning how to ride a bike with confidence.

In a straight line or sweeping curves things are fine, but when the corner is tight or tightens up is when these factors cause the rider to go off line.

And this is why the MSF courses use light, low power bikes. They are light, agile and easy to ride. They instill confidence while teaching good habits and being somewhat forgiving to mistakes.

We all know about those low mile super sport bike deals someone found because the original owner rode it a few times and got scared of it. Low confidence in your abilities will do that quickly.

Light bikes are a blast on the right roads, not so much cruising an interstate.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-12-2018, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rv6john View Post
Nice project. If you don't have the wiring in yet, there is a section in the OEM service manual showing the original routing that might be very helpful.

It should be in chapter 10 "Servicing Information" instead of the electrical chapter.
Took a little while but I found the 01-02 service manual. This is going to make things much easier, thanks a bunch for the suggestion!
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-10-2018, 08:34 AM Thread Starter
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I think I am pretty close to trying to start the bike! Need to add the main fuel line on, then fill it up with fluids and try to start
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-10-2018, 11:05 AM
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Welcome!

Nice project! I'm sorry I didn't see your first post, I probably would have replied.
John stated some good points about bikes in general, etc.

I hope all goes well! If not, let us know, there are some smart m-f'ers around here, especially about the Jixxers.

What part of AZ you in? I was in the Tucson area for Grad school and a few more years.
Mt Lemmon, and Gates pass would be some good rides on a Motorcycle.
I rode them 100's of times many years ago- on a racing road bike.- A bicycle. My own power.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-12-2018, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Todd_Sails View Post
Welcome!

Nice project! I'm sorry I didn't see your first post, I probably would have replied.
John stated some good points about bikes in general, etc.

I hope all goes well! If not, let us know, there are some smart m-f'ers around here, especially about the Jixxers.

What part of AZ you in? I was in the Tucson area for Grad school and a few more years.
Mt Lemmon, and Gates pass would be some good rides on a Motorcycle.
I rode them 100's of times many years ago- on a racing road bike.- A bicycle. My own power.
Hi Todd, I am west of tucson (due west of gates pass). Gates Pass is my route into town.

I got the bike started over the weekend, but it was running pretty rough. One of the fuel injectors is bad (the spark plug was dry in that cylinder). The wiring going to that injector was questionable as well...

I ordered a complete throttle body with harness, injectors, sensors... My throttle body was missing the upper butterflies because someone had nitrous on it. I do not need nitrous haha! The sensor at the top right that senses the secondary butterflies was busted too, so I figured I'd just get the whole thing.

While I'm waiting for that to show up, I will work on the rear lights / license plate stuff.

I can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel of this build!

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-19-2018, 11:58 PM Thread Starter
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Got the bike started again, and then it stopped. Fuel pump is giving me grief. I removed it and applied some voltage to the leads, and it wouldn't rotate. Poked at it with a pick, got it rotating good.

Bike started, ran, died. Dang pump locked up again. Ordered one off ebay (can't afford 600 bucks for a new OEM) so I went with a cheap one with good reviews.

I did have a spare fuel pump assembly but when I took it apart to check it out, dirt fell out... So I didn't even try that one!
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-05-2018, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
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So silly me, I forgot the do a compression test. The initial results explain a few things.

New fuel pump worked, then quit. It popped the fuse (the fuse in the fuse block was lower than rated).

Compression test was bad news:

120psi - 110 - 90 - 0

Those are the readings of all the cylinders, dry test. Haven't had time to do a wet test. The 0 psi worries me. That's why the engine was running rough.

I ordered a set of rings for each cylinder; going to replace all of them. Will also check valve clearance while the engine is out, and replace any shims that need it. I do have an extra head so if I have a bad valve I can switch it out.

Will also check all the bearing surfaces in the bottom end.

At least the transmission is already undercut for second gear.

TL; DR : Rebuilding engine.



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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-06-2018, 04:59 AM
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Disable the injector and run it as a 750 haha!
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-06-2018, 05:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlaudiofan1911 View Post
So silly me, I forgot the do a compression test. The initial results explain a few things.

New fuel pump worked, then quit. It popped the fuse (the fuse in the fuse block was lower than rated).

Compression test was bad news:

120psi - 110 - 90 - 0

Those are the readings of all the cylinders, dry test. Haven't had time to do a wet test. The 0 psi worries me. That's why the engine was running rough.

I ordered a set of rings for each cylinder; going to replace all of them. Will also check valve clearance while the engine is out, and replace any shims that need it. I do have an extra head so if I have a bad valve I can switch it out.

Will also check all the bearing surfaces in the bottom end.

At least the transmission is already undercut for second gear.

TL; DR : Rebuilding engine.



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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-07-2018, 03:38 PM
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Used to have Nitrous? Could be trouble.

Worn rings will still be more than 0PSI. Something with the valves, etc.
Sounds like you're on the right track, A good used motor is also another option?

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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-08-2018, 01:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd_Sails View Post
Used to have Nitrous? Could be trouble.

Worn rings will still be more than 0PSI. Something with the valves, etc.
Sounds like you're on the right track, A good used motor is also another option?
Make sure you check the ring gap of those new rings. You will probably have to file the Compression ring down a little.

Honestly Iím not trying to tell how to build your bike but you really should replace those pistons. Nitrous oxide really destroyed so many gsxr engines Iíve seen in my years in the business. Even with using a colder plug.
If not then definitely do yourself a favor and measure the skirt of the piston as well as the piston to wall clearance. Measure all the cylinders for taper and out of round and compare what you get to the service limits in the book. If any of what I just told you is past itís service limit then please just buy yourself a good running used engine (that was never juiced).

Iím sorry I donít mean to tell you how to build your bike. I just saw the damage that spray does in the aftermath when I was a Suzuki mechanic and unless youíre building some crazy big bore stroker monster bike then fixing anything cylinder out of round or excessive piston to wall clearance just isnít worth the money. And chances are there was a ton of known (Detonation) every time someone hit that spray so there can be some excessive connecting rod bearing oil clearance or Ive even seen crushed rod bearings just from excessive knock from nitrous abuse.

Like I said Iím sorry but I had to throw my 2 cents in there because I donít want to see u dump cash into a motor thatís gonna leave you stranded on the side of the road. Or God forbid locks up while youíre crushing on the highway.

Whatever you decide to do just please be careful
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-09-2018, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by GIXXER75 View Post
Make sure you check the ring gap of those new rings. You will probably have to file the Compression ring down a little.

Honestly Iím not trying to tell how to build your bike but you really should replace those pistons. Nitrous oxide really destroyed so many gsxr engines Iíve seen in my years in the business. Even with using a colder plug.
If not then definitely do yourself a favor and measure the skirt of the piston as well as the piston to wall clearance. Measure all the cylinders for taper and out of round and compare what you get to the service limits in the book. If any of what I just told you is past itís service limit then please just buy yourself a good running used engine (that was never juiced).

Iím sorry I donít mean to tell you how to build your bike. I just saw the damage that spray does in the aftermath when I was a Suzuki mechanic and unless youíre building some crazy big bore stroker monster bike then fixing anything cylinder out of round or excessive piston to wall clearance just isnít worth the money. And chances are there was a ton of known (Detonation) every time someone hit that spray so there can be some excessive connecting rod bearing oil clearance or Ive even seen crushed rod bearings just from excessive knock from nitrous abuse.

Like I said Iím sorry but I had to throw my 2 cents in there because I donít want to see u dump cash into a motor thatís gonna leave you stranded on the side of the road. Or God forbid locks up while youíre crushing on the highway.

Whatever you decide to do just please be careful
Thanks, I do appreciate your input!

The throttle body that had the nitrous on it was off of a different engine.

That being said, the history of the engine I have is unknown. I will definitely check the specs of everything while it's apart. If I am going to the trouble of tearing it apart, might as well build it the right way, right?

Thanks again.



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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-20-2019, 10:51 AM Thread Starter
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Time for an update!

Found a bent intake valve, replaced with a straight intake valve from the other head I have. Compression in that cylinder went from 0 to 65 (dry) and 95 (wet). It actually started and ran / idled after doing wet test. Turned the garage into a smoky death trap though (burning oil haha). Looks like it's a good thing I bought a piston ring set.

I also wonder if the person that was messing with this engine previously had replaced the rings, but did not clock them properly; Finding the shifter return spring installed improperly suggests that person was either in a hurry or didn't know what they were doing.

Looks like I'll be tearing the whole thing apart. Have to get the GF's 69 VW bug engine rebuilt and out of the way first

I will be measuring the specs of everything, and if the pistons / cylinders or other major parts are out of spec, I'll start looking for a good used engine (no sense in throwing more parts at a bad engine).

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Last edited by jlaudiofan1911; 01-20-2019 at 10:54 AM.
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