L1 750 Track/Street build - Page 2 - GSXR.com
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post #41 of 133 (permalink) Old 03-03-2018, 08:04 AM
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In this instant gratification world, I have become used to getting things promptly 99% of the time.

I get pissed when i get told to pull over in slot 2 at McDonalds, right?

But, these past few instances have gone beyond that. In MSM case, a simple note or if he cant type, a call would have sufficed to keep the consumer if not happy then at least not totally in the dark.
Instead, he thinks it is ok to accept payment then offer no communication at all for over a month.

In the end, making it right to me isnt giving me a refund on money that has been in his hands for a month unless he returns it with interest.

I'll have to check again, but I do not see anywhere on his website where it says his products will take time to ship. But I might have missed it.

Hey JCW. I wanted to let you know, that PainfullySlo (Michael, owner of MSM) made an appearance on the ZX6R forums, after another guy had voiced a similar concern. I know you weren't the only one waiting on a product when you voiced your concern, as I along with some others are waiting on levers. As I really like his product
(have his levers on my ZX6R), I had every intention to wait as long as I could. I knew that Michael would make it right in the end. I think you should follow this link over to the ZX6R forums. It will give you updated contact information, and the story as to why you didn't receive your parts.

Mad Scientist Moto - ZX6R Forum

Best of luck to you. Good luck with your build.
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post #42 of 133 (permalink) Old 03-03-2018, 10:34 AM
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Wow!

I followed the link to the ZX6R forum- thanks for that, AND

HIt the active topics tab- and BAM! People actually post on that forum!
Kudos to the Kawi guys and gals over there.

Today, I was looking for another forum, besides this, or Jizzer.com,
Under 'sport bike forums', all the top ones listed barely had any threads form the last few weeks to months.

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post #43 of 133 (permalink) Old 03-04-2018, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
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Paypal just refunded my payment. He didn't respond to paypal's emails either. No communication. No product.
In the end, I had no choice in my mind.

You have more patience than I.
You are a better man than I.

I have decided not to deal with him.


Question- Does he machine these parts himself? If not, not sure why the prolonged delay for everyone. If so, it should be made clear products will not be delivered until he is able.
Doesn't that just make sense????
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post #44 of 133 (permalink) Old 03-04-2018, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
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My phone really takes crappy pics. And my garage is a mess.

I'm almost used to looking at the bike naked.
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post #45 of 133 (permalink) Old 03-04-2018, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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Kinda funny that 1/2 the replys were people hitting him up for discounted inventory.

I paid full price...

Quote:
Originally Posted by RoidRageFool View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by JCW View Post
In this instant gratification world, I have become used to getting things promptly 99% of the time.

I get pissed when i get told to pull over in slot 2 at McDonalds, right?

But, these past few instances have gone beyond that. In MSM case, a simple note or if he cant type, a call would have sufficed to keep the consumer if not happy then at least not totally in the dark.
Instead, he thinks it is ok to accept payment then offer no communication at all for over a month.

In the end, making it right to me isnt giving me a refund on money that has been in his hands for a month unless he returns it with interest.

I'll have to check again, but I do not see anywhere on his website where it says his products will take time to ship. But I might have missed it.

Hey JCW. I wanted to let you know, that PainfullySlo (Michael, owner of MSM) made an appearance on the ZX6R forums, after another guy had voiced a similar concern. I know you weren't the only one waiting on a product when you voiced your concern, as I along with some others are waiting on levers. As I really like his product
(have his levers on my ZX6R), I had every intention to wait as long as I could. I knew that Michael would make it right in the end. I think you should follow this link over to the ZX6R forums. It will give you updated contact information, and the story as to why you didn't receive your parts.

Mad Scientist Moto - ZX6R Forum

Best of luck to you. Good luck with your build.

Last edited by JCW; 03-04-2018 at 11:28 AM.
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post #46 of 133 (permalink) Old 03-05-2018, 08:35 AM
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Today, I was looking for another forum, besides this, or Jizzer.com,
Under 'sport bike forums', all the top ones listed barely had any threads form the last few weeks to months.
I think that's pretty common for winter.
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post #47 of 133 (permalink) Old 03-05-2018, 10:11 AM
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I think that's pretty common for winter.
I just dont even slightly feel the need to even go over there.
Guess I've out grown all that entails.
This site has the best members of any site I've been to. Quality over quantity.
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post #48 of 133 (permalink) Old 03-05-2018, 11:06 AM
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Paypal just refunded my payment. He didn't respond to paypal's emails either. No communication. No product.
In the end, I had no choice in my mind.

You have more patience than I.
You are a better man than I.

I have decided not to deal with him.


Question- Does he machine these parts himself? If not, not sure why the prolonged delay for everyone. If so, it should be made clear products will not be delivered until he is able.
Doesn't that just make sense????
JCW,

Honestly, I typically don't have patience for a product. However, because I do like his levers, I had an idea that something was going on in his personal life after a bad accident, it isn't riding season yet here, and lastly, because I don't want to shell out $200 for a set of nice levers when I can get a nice set for $60. It it was riding season, or If it was any other vendor, I would be pissed.

As for your second question. I think he had teamed up with another guy who was doing the machining for him. At the end of the day, I am not real sure what happened here, other then the business will be shutting down, and outstanding orders will either be fulfilled or refunded.

Hopefully you were able to get your parts somewhere else for a reasonable cost.
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post #49 of 133 (permalink) Old 03-05-2018, 01:44 PM
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JCW,

Honestly, I typically don't have patience for a product. However, because I do like his levers, I had an idea that something was going on in his personal life after a bad accident, it isn't riding season yet here, and lastly, because I don't want to shell out $200 for a set of nice levers when I can get a nice set for $60. It it was riding season, or If it was any other vendor, I would be pissed.

As for your second question. I think he had teamed up with another guy who was doing the machining for him. At the end of the day, I am not real sure what happened here, other then the business will be shutting down, and outstanding orders will either be fulfilled or refunded.

Hopefully you were able to get your parts somewhere else for a reasonable cost.
Im running Pazzo levers on my trackbike, no problems and I like them.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/PAZZO-LEVER...ZWvSpc&vxp=mtr

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post #50 of 133 (permalink) Old 03-08-2018, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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My ebay fairings arrived...


crrrraaaaapppp
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post #51 of 133 (permalink) Old 03-08-2018, 06:17 PM
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Holy Sh!t

You can get Happy in the same pants you got Pissed off in

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post #52 of 133 (permalink) Old 03-08-2018, 06:28 PM
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There has to be damage.

I am a ward of the state.
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post #53 of 133 (permalink) Old 03-11-2018, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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Put together the bodywork from the crushed box from Slovenia...

This is my second set of race bodywork I’ve installed myself, so I'm not all that experienced, but my impressions...
Fit was really crappy. I felt I was going to crack the one piece upper fiberglass trying to get that right side pulled back far enough to the frame mounting point. Worst part of the kit.
Gap between the upper and lower was a little excessive and poorly finished.
The lower bellypan while it fitted was too close to the headers and rear tire. And just looked OK.
The edges of the front fender and the upper fairing windscreen cutout were not cut well and looked asymmetrical.
The superbike tail fit was nice, though. Best part of the kit.

Need to get some simple lights installed to get some street time before trackdays start.

Last edited by JCW; 03-11-2018 at 07:31 PM.
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post #54 of 133 (permalink) Old 03-14-2018, 02:36 PM
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Sorry to hear but guess it proves why Sharkskinz/Armour Bodies, etc is worth it over eBay overseas crap. Probably will shatter like stained glass in a tipover too.

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post #55 of 133 (permalink) Old 03-17-2018, 11:41 PM Thread Starter
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Finished up my license plate/taillight bracket...





Just need to figure how to mount some lights and I'll be sort of street legal.

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post #56 of 133 (permalink) Old 03-19-2018, 06:55 PM
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I'm assuming that bodywork was less expensive then lets say "hotbodies or armour bodies" I can't believe that stuff wasn't destroyed with the way that box looked. Are you planning on riding this thing on both the track and street? If so, any particular reason for the track plastics when your just going to mount lights to it?
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post #57 of 133 (permalink) Old 03-19-2018, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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If I knew of a reliable company that produces street plastics with light cutouts, I might have gone that way. But I wasn’t aware. Not saying they don’t exist, I just didn’t find one. Although to be honest I wasn’t looking that hard. I do want this to be primarily my track bike. I’m just not good enough to show up on the bike and ride fast. I need as much seat time to practice different things. This year, I’m going to get the brake/downshift/throttle blip perfected. Keep working on body position and peg weighting and really focus on corner entry set up.

I also really wanted a fairing set that had the integrated superbike tail/seat unit. I cut a foam pad yesterday and glued it on. Went on an extended ride for more than 5 minutes for the first time this year. Looks OK, felt fine.



So, I still DO have an open order with Armour Bodies. But they haven’t delivered since I placed the order last October. April is the next “possible” date for their superbike set. I ordered this eBay set in a panic when they postponed it last month.

I wanted everything easily detachable that wasn’t essential for the track, and I’ve no doubt saved additional weight. IMO, it seems every 5-10 pounds this bike loses, it feels better and better.

Oh, yeah, when I lowsided, I replaced the damaged parts with OEM. Only one side got damaged and was able to salvage many parts and whole right side. OEM prices hurt still. This second crash, I managed to break EVERY SINGLE fairing piece on both sides. No way could I afford OEM.




Last thing are the rearsets. Man, I’ve been dreading this. Just so expensive for something the stock ones do just fine. But, my legs are too damn short to really be in a good position on the tank for the track. I think it also hinders my ability to get my leg and knee pointed out as well on entry and mid corner. I’m looking to go extreme track, so I’ve put in an order for the Sato Racing race version rearsets.

Before someone asks, even though they aren't technically listed for the 2011-16 GSXR600/750, they can be made to adapt with just a little grinding and relieving of aluminum... I hope

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post #58 of 133 (permalink) Old 03-21-2018, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
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All that was required was filing down a small ridge on the backside of the frame at the upper rearset mount to make it flat with the mounting surface. Probably 1-2mm wide, 1mm high.

The rearsets are set at the third from the highest setting.


The rear brake master cylinder is held by red locktight 4mm socket head bolts. If you don't use heat, I bet the chances of rounding the allen head is high. Enough heat, and the bolt just spins out with no effort.

Last edited by JCW; 03-22-2018 at 09:20 AM.
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post #59 of 133 (permalink) Old 03-23-2018, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
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Took a cut off wheel/grinder to the passenger peg mounts and death hook.



fabbed up a little brake reservoir bracket.
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post #60 of 133 (permalink) Old 03-23-2018, 03:27 PM
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Took a cut off wheel/grinder to the passenger peg mounts and death hook.



fabbed up a little brake reservoir bracket.
That tail looks nice man. I opted for stock seat just because I've had herniated discs in my lower back.
IMO, the two main things to work on for starters are REALLY learning the track lines and body position. Braking and shifting after that. Just my 2 cents. With proper body position, corners are far easier.

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post #61 of 133 (permalink) Old 03-23-2018, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
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Normally I would agree. And you are correct.

‘Cept I’ve been going to this track off and on for past 7 years. So, I’m familiar with the lines.

Yeah, can always improve body position. Something I worked really hard on last year. I’m pretty happy with the progress since I decided to get serious about going fast a couple years ago. But, felt I was missing something.

Immediately, the new peg position is giving me a feeling of better leverage. I feel like I’m sitting on top of the bike, but I really like the feeling of control. Maybe this will help with my progress...
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post #62 of 133 (permalink) Old 03-28-2018, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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Put in a cheapo pod light from the auto store behind the fairings.
I'm not using the ram air. Fitment headaches.




Went for a short ride. The bike feels back to normal.
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Last edited by JCW; 03-28-2018 at 03:27 PM.
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post #63 of 133 (permalink) Old 04-04-2018, 11:30 PM Thread Starter
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Anyone know why they used unequal velocity stacks for the 750 and equal for the 600?

Anyway, I'm thinking of throwing on a set the shorter stacks. There's a couple on ebay for $20.

Funny, Danos offers their shorter stacks for $150. LOL.
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post #64 of 133 (permalink) Old 04-05-2018, 01:34 AM
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Anyone know why they used unequal velocity stacks for the 750 and equal for the 600?

Anyway, I'm thinking of throwing on a set the shorter stacks. There's a couple on ebay for $20.

Funny, Danos offers their shorter stacks for $150. LOL.
Usually when the stacks are staggered it's due to airflow testing, shape of box to engine flow CFM. Those engineers are pretty smart lol

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post #65 of 133 (permalink) Old 04-05-2018, 06:07 AM Thread Starter
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I think I read it was just a compromise of low and high rpm driveability.

I'm going to install the short ones for the track. Just for sh!ts and giggles...
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post #66 of 133 (permalink) Old 04-05-2018, 06:08 AM
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Usually when the stacks are staggered it's due to airflow testing, shape of box to engine flow CFM. Those engineers are pretty smart lol
Mixed height stacks gives you power all across the RPM range. All short stacks typically move that power to the upper rpm range. Drag racers run all short stacks cause they are always WOT for the whole race and want peak HP

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post #67 of 133 (permalink) Old 04-05-2018, 07:42 AM
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Stacks might be interesting to play with but for me getting a good drive (where midrange comes into play) is probably more important than top end.

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post #68 of 133 (permalink) Old 04-05-2018, 07:45 AM
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Stacks might be interesting to play with but for me getting a good drive (where midrange comes into play) is probably more important than top end.
I almost pulled the trigger on a set for my busa, as I had them in my 1000 before. Made great top end power and the midrange doesn't suffer enough to make me NOT do it, but since this Busa is 99.999999% a street bike I decided against them this time.
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post #69 of 133 (permalink) Old 04-09-2018, 07:15 AM Thread Starter
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Wow. Motogp was a f-fest yesterday...
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post #70 of 133 (permalink) Old 05-20-2018, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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Installed the 600's short stacks just for the heck of it.
Sitting down to watch the Lemans GP.


I changed out the tires and weighed the wheels on a bathroom scale. Not super accurate but since I had trouble searching for OEM wheel weights here they are for reference sake...

2011 GSXR750 wheels without rotors or spacers, with bearings. Rear minus sprocket and adapter, no cush drive rubbers.

front- ~9#'s
rear- ~12-13#'s
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post #71 of 133 (permalink) Old 05-22-2018, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
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A pic of the difference in air stacks




Bike is mostly ready for this weekend's trackday.

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post #72 of 133 (permalink) Old 06-03-2018, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
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Have you ever rolled off WOT and felt the bike accelerate harder for a half second?
If I was on my old carb'd bike, it feels like a lean main jet.

I looked at the fuel maps and the secondary throttles are closing slightly from 70% to WOT from 7 or 8K rpm to somewhere around 10K. That would mean that they are opening slightly as I roll off the throttle from WOT in that rpm range.

Above a certain rpm (>10K), the secondary throttle are opened their max to redline.

Anyone else notice this? It's not a huge deal but having the bike surge ahead on track when you are approaching a corner isn't exactly comforting.


I was going to remap the secondary throttles in this area to keep the secondaries at least from closing.

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post #73 of 133 (permalink) Old 06-06-2018, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
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Thought this might help a little. Dropped just under 1/2 pound in rotating mass off the rear rotor. Just for Sh!ts and Giggles.

Didn't have the balls to remap the secondary throttle yet...
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post #74 of 133 (permalink) Old 06-07-2018, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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UGGGGGHHH!

Installed the rear wheel. Bled my brakes front and back. Went out for a ride.

Came back and noticed the right axle block wasn't touching the adjuster. I swear I torqued the axle nut right...

Go to remove the axle nut and it's locked on. Tried too hard to remove it and sheared the axle block on the right side.

I'm F^cked, my trackday is Sunday...

Going to the local suzuki dealer to see what they have in the AM. Still have to figure how to get the damn nut off the axle. I could cut it off but...

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post #75 of 133 (permalink) Old 06-08-2018, 08:51 AM
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Came back and noticed the right axle block wasn't touching the adjuster. I swear I torqued the axle nut right...

Go to remove the axle nut and it's locked on. Tried too hard to remove it and sheared the axle block on the right side.

I'm F^cked, my trackday is Sunday...

Going to the local suzuki dealer to see what they have in the AM. Still have to figure how to get the damn nut off the axle. I could cut it off but...
Been there, done that. Had to cut the nut off with a dremel. Now I'm sure to use a little anti seize on the threads.

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post #76 of 133 (permalink) Old 06-08-2018, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Came back and noticed the right axle block wasn't touching the adjuster. I swear I torqued the axle nut right...

Go to remove the axle nut and it's locked on. Tried too hard to remove it and sheared the axle block on the right side.

I'm F^cked, my trackday is Sunday...

Going to the local suzuki dealer to see what they have in the AM. Still have to figure how to get the damn nut off the axle. I could cut it off but...
Been there, done that. Had to cut the nut off with a dremel. Now I'm sure to use a little anti seize on the threads.
Yeah, when I Google searched WTF was going on, I saw you had mentioned it.

Wouldn't be a big deal but my trackday is ducked.

And the guy in front of me at chic fila drive thru just order 15 sandwiches...

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post #77 of 133 (permalink) Old 06-08-2018, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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So, I ended up tig welding a $.99 nut (3/4") on the right side of the axle.

Grabbed the axle with that nut and spun that mother Tucker nut on the left side off the rest of the way.

Why???? didn't Suzuki put a nut or an allen recess in this end of the axle instead of relying on some soft aluminum to do the job?

The axle threads were a little wonky. The locking mechanism on the nut had failed and was not going back on any bolt. Fortunately I had a couple nuts of the correct pitch and thread from old bike builds and I wasted one trying to clean up the threads of the axle.

Finally with the last nut and a small file, I was able to clean up the threads so the nut would spin on all the way to the bottom.

Assembled everything, drew a witness mark on the nut, axle and frame and went for a test ride.

Everything looked to hold OK. I'm back on.

May replace the whole thing with a Fast by Frank quick change rear axle eventually. When I save some money...
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post #78 of 133 (permalink) Old 06-20-2018, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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Why did Suzuki put that small plate in front of the oil pan so you can't drop the pan without removing the engine?
Stupidest thing I've seen.

So, I wonder if I should just change case cover and the oil and start her back up.

Ground a nice gash through the right side and wanted to clean the pan.
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post #79 of 133 (permalink) Old 06-20-2018, 12:27 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Columbia, MO
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Originally Posted by JCW View Post
So, I ended up tig welding a $.99 nut (3/4") on the right side of the axle.

Grabbed the axle with that nut and spun that mother Tucker nut on the left side off the rest of the way.

Why???? didn't Suzuki put a nut or an allen recess in this end of the axle instead of relying on some soft aluminum to do the job?

The axle threads were a little wonky. The locking mechanism on the nut had failed and was not going back on any bolt. Fortunately I had a couple nuts of the correct pitch and thread from old bike builds and I wasted one trying to clean up the threads of the axle.

Finally with the last nut and a small file, I was able to clean up the threads so the nut would spin on all the way to the bottom.

Assembled everything, drew a witness mark on the nut, axle and frame and went for a test ride.

Everything looked to hold OK. I'm back on.

May replace the whole thing with a Fast by Frank quick change rear axle eventually. When I save some money...
I'd really like to find a castle nut for mine like the prior bikes had. With the LighTech adjusters there's no axle protruding past the nut. I really ought to drill a corner of the nut for safety wire but think I'd prefer castle nut and cotter pin through the axle.

There is a grey blur, and a green blur. I try to stay on the grey one. -Joey Dunlop
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post #80 of 133 (permalink) Old 06-20-2018, 03:57 PM Thread Starter
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Chicago, IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tigerblade View Post
I'd really like to find a castle nut for mine like the prior bikes had. With the LighTech adjusters there's no axle protruding past the nut. I really ought to drill a corner of the nut for safety wire but think I'd prefer castle nut and cotter pin through the axle.
I’ve read here and there about using a gsxr1000 rear axle since it is longer. But, I looked up online and it looks like the rear bearings indicate the 1000 axle is bigger in diameter as well. So, no go...

M22 pitch 1.5 nut.
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