I wonder if there is a parameter in a flash tune that can eliminate the need for the switch?
Nope. The interlock is in the relay system, not the the programming. It can be overcome with some simple wiring (like a DPDT start button to act like the clutch switch). How it affects the ECM is something I've never seen proof of. Basically when the clutch is pulled, it grounds the B/Y wire. That's connected to the ECM. The start button that supplies the power to the starter relay is on the Y/G wire, which is also connected to the ECM.
With no clutch pull, there's no ground to the relay and pushing the start button does nothing, and grounding with no start button does nothing. But, when both are pushed at the same time, the ECM knows it and energizes the fuel pump.
By itself, the ECM can see this ground and know that the clutch is pulled. Whether or not it uses that for a mapping change is unknown to me. When I wired up my bike, I bought a pair of switch pods on ebay. Tore both harnesses down. Kept the two wires for the clutch switch on the left side, and on the right side the wires for the start button and kill switch. Wired them into the Motion Pro generic starter buttons and put all of it on the left bar. Made room for my brembo setup and MotionPro throttle setup on the right. The right switch pod also held the throttle cables, so that function had to be replaced by something.
I would recommend to anyone to keep the clutch switch. All it takes is one time trying to start it in gear without the lever pulled and bad things can happen. It's super easy to keep it, so why try do anything else?