Red light, FI light, chec light - GSXR.com
 
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-12-2014, 11:46 PM Thread Starter
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Red light, FI light, chec light

I have an 07 750 and the red temp/oil pressure red light stays on, it it shows check the chec and the FI indicator. Bike hasnt been ran in about a year but it starts right up, I just haven't rode it because I want to figure out what the deal with those warnings is because I don't want to damage my engine. Is that an indication that it's over heating or something? All those lights are on as soon as a put the key in and they stay on when the bike is actually on too. Anton have an idea? Also I let the bike just idle for less then a minute and the temp got up to 104, is that normal or is it overheating? What the normal and max operating temps? Thanks for the help and sorry for the newb questions everyone
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-13-2014, 12:19 AM
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Search for "Dealer Mode".
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-13-2014, 07:17 AM Thread Starter
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I did that it came back with "coo" don't have any codes. So I turn the kill switch off, turned the key off and removed the wire for dealer mode. Then I put my key back in, kill switch on, and it still says "chec" and the red light is on. What's the proper way to get it out of dealer mode?
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-13-2014, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by black750r View Post
I have an 07 750 and the red temp/oil pressure red light stays on, it it shows check the chec and the FI indicator. Bike hasnt been ran in about a year but it starts right up, I just haven't rode it because I want to figure out what the deal with those warnings is because I don't want to damage my engine. Is that an indication that it's over heating or something? All those lights are on as soon as a put the key in and they stay on when the bike is actually on too. Anton have an idea? Also I let the bike just idle for less then a minute and the temp got up to 104, is that normal or is it overheating? What the normal and max operating temps? Thanks for the help and sorry for the newb questions everyone
Well first start by putting the bike in dealer mode if your having the FI light staying on while the bike is in. Secondly the 104 temp is nothing my temp goes up as 220 on a hot day so 104 is no where near to its max temp. Third if you don't know how to put the bike in dealer more there's plenty of you tube videos on how to do it very easy I would explain it but I'm kinda in a rush hope this helps brother good luck.

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-13-2014, 07:34 AM Thread Starter
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Okay guys I put it in dealer mode again and got the "coo" again but the little dash "-" isnt in the middle of the coo like I've seen on the DIY. The little "-" is all the way at the top of the coo is that normal? Also this time aroud when in dealer mode after I got "coo" I just left te bike key and kill switch on and just pulled the dealer mode wire out and the red light and chec both went off, so then I turned the bike on and the lights stay off and everything looked good. But when I shut the bike off and turn it on again the red light and chec messages come back. What gives?
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-13-2014, 08:38 AM
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Is it showing check with the engine running or not running? It will say check with everything turned on and not running. Starting it up it will show nothing if there aren't any faults.

Americans cant build anything worth half a crap.The only way to win is to "legally" cheat.

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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-13-2014, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by black750r View Post
Okay guys I put it in dealer mode again and got the "coo" again but the little dash "-" isnt in the middle of the coo like I've seen on the DIY. The little "-" is all the way at the top of the coo is that normal? Also this time aroud when in dealer mode after I got "coo" I just left te bike key and kill switch on and just pulled the dealer mode wire out and the red light and chec both went off, so then I turned the bike on and the lights stay off and everything looked good. But when I shut the bike off and turn it on again the red light and chec messages come back. What gives?
First things. The "CHEC" and the FI light and "FI" flashing in the temp window are not connected.

The "CHEC" simply tells you that the ECM has not sent a signal to the instrument cluster in about 3 seconds. You will also get a "-" in the gear position window.
This is normally caused by the kill switch being turned off or side stand being down with the bike in gear.

Is the bike in gear and the side stand down when you turn on the ignition and kill switch?

Regarding the red FI light. It is always on when the bike is not running as it also triggered by low oil pressure. No run = no oil pressure. Normal.

If the red light is on AND you have a flashing "FI" in the temp window then you have a code.

The "-" mark in dealer mode will always read high if the bike is cold as the mark moves with the throttle and high idle is set with a cold bike. Otherwise, don't tinker with the TPS setting till you know the bike is running correctly and only after you understand what you are doing.

You say the bike is running well so it is unlikely that it is out of adjustment.

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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-13-2014, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
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When the bike is off sitting in the kick stand it show the "chec" and the red light stays on. When the bike is running it shows a solid FI it doesn't flash, it just switch from FI to the temp every few seconds and the red light stays on as well. I talked to one of the guys at the service dept at the dealer and he said it could be something about a little motor thing because I have an m4 street slayer exhaust. What the normal operating temperatures for gixxers? I just rode it for 10 minutes and it got up to 170 degrees, is that normal?

Sorry for all the questions guys its my first street bike, I've been riding dirt bikes and atvs for my whole life just about.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-13-2014, 09:56 AM
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Well....that little bit of info just solved your problem. Search "set valve". You basically pull a wire from your ecu and the light goes off.

Americans cant build anything worth half a crap.The only way to win is to "legally" cheat.

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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-13-2014, 09:58 AM
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That temp is still low depending on your ambient temp. Not bad though. Mine has reached 205 before.

Americans cant build anything worth half a crap.The only way to win is to "legally" cheat.

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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-13-2014, 10:09 AM
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So it sounds like the "CHEC" is a non-issue.

You didn't say so, but I'm sure it went away when you started the bike.

BTW. If you want to see how this works. Put the bike in neutral, turn on the ignition and kill switch. No need to start the bike.
Now move the kill switch to off (this turns off power to the ECM) Three seconds later, "CHEC" will appear in the temp. window and "-" in the GP window. Move the kill switch to "run" and they will go away.

Put the bike back in dealer mode and run or drive the bike long enough for the code to appear. The dealer mechanic is guessing at a SET valve issue since it is the most common. That is a C46 code.

Since the bike has been sitting, it might be as simple as lubricating the flapper valve in the exhaust pipe.

Get the code and let us know.

Quote:
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If you think reading is tricky, how the hell are you going to follow troubleshooting directions?
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-13-2014, 10:16 AM
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Oh, and 100 degrees after 10 minutes is fine. They heat up pretty quick. If you let it idle it will eventually get to 221 degrees, the fan will come on, cool it off to 212 degrees, fan off, repeat.

Most of the bike seem to normally operate at 180-200 degrees. 240+ would be getting too high.

Cooler is not necessarily better. A too cool engine will retain moisture leading to corrosion problems.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckster View Post
If you think reading is tricky, how the hell are you going to follow troubleshooting directions?
"Riding well is difficult, riding poorly is easy and painful."
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"We're all here because we're not all there" - Guy Favron on Gold Rush

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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-13-2014, 03:09 PM Thread Starter
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You guys are awesome! But yes the "chec" goes off when the bike is on. I read around somewhere that the C46 code doesn't generally show up so I suspected it was that as well. How hard of a fix is that? Also can I still ride my bike in the mean time or will that set valve code cause serious damage?
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-13-2014, 10:55 PM
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set valve

The way I got my C46 was , I started my bike, while the bike was running i put a paper clip in the specified terminals for dealer mode in the box underneath the seat and it started showing up.
You can ride your bike with FI light without any issues but it will deceive you in case your oil pressure goes down for real which can kill your engine.
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-14-2014, 08:51 AM
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You guys are awesome! But yes the "chec" goes off when the bike is on. I read around somewhere that the C46 code doesn't generally show up so I suspected it was that as well. How hard of a fix is that? Also can I still ride my bike in the mean time or will that set valve code cause serious damage?
No, you won't damage the bike by riding it with a fault code. Worse case is the ECM will go into "Fail-Safe" mode and neuter the power of the bike.

If the FI light is on and "FI" is flashing in the temp window, there is a code. I believe you are turning off the bike before you putt it into dealer mode thus deleting the code from the cluster.

Put the bike in dealer mode and just go ride. The code will pop up eventually.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckster View Post
If you think reading is tricky, how the hell are you going to follow troubleshooting directions?
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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-15-2014, 09:15 AM Thread Starter
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I was riding yesterday, and rode to work this morning ad the red light went away and no more FI. Is it possible for a c46 to correct it self on its own? Also how would I know if te bike went into "fail-safe" mode?
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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-15-2014, 09:53 AM
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I was riding yesterday, and rode to work this morning ad the red light went away and no more FI. Is it possible for a c46 to correct it self on its own? Also how would I know if te bike went into "fail-safe" mode?
Yes the C46 can fix itself. More then likely it has freed itself up with use. You might expect the problem to reoccur if you let it sit for awhile. Lubrication of the valve pivot should keep this from happening.

What happens is that the exhaust valve either is stuck or sticky. The ECM commands a certain movement and that does not happen in the time allotted so the ECM throws an error.

Red light on and "FI" blinking in the temp window = Fail Safe mode.

Otherwise, you are good to go.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckster View Post
If you think reading is tricky, how the hell are you going to follow troubleshooting directions?
"Riding well is difficult, riding poorly is easy and painful."
- Nick Ienatsch


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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-16-2014, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
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Well on my ride back home yesterday the light and FI came back on so when I got home I tried pulling the code again but I got the same thing, I got the "coo" again. So I guess the c46 is back. I'll see if I get a chance to mess with it this weekend. But basically that set valve is just a butterfly style valve right? And I should try greasing it up first to seeing that fixes it?
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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-17-2014, 02:40 AM
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Quote:
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Well on my ride back home yesterday the light and FI came back on so when I got home I tried pulling the code again but I got the same thing, I got the "coo" again. So I guess the c46 is back. I'll see if I get a chance to mess with it this weekend. But basically that set valve is just a butterfly style valve right? And I should try greasing it up first to seeing that fixes it?

The reason why you arnt getting the codes is due to you turning off the bike. Once the bike turns off it erases all the codes.

You can either lubricate the SET valve or pull the pin from the ECM to disable the SET valve. There is a spring on the valve that keeps it open, so no need to worry about it closing up.


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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-17-2014, 04:50 AM Thread Starter
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What do you guys recommend I do? Lubricate it or pull the pin and cancel it out? What would be the benefits and bad things of grtting rid of the set valve?
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post #21 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-21-2014, 03:14 PM
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What do you guys recommend I do? Lubricate it or pull the pin and cancel it out? What would be the benefits and bad things of grtting rid of the set valve?
Video on how to remove it:

Some say you get more HP, but I don't buy it. Best case scenario you took a part of that wasn't that important and you stop getting an error code.
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