Need a course - GSXR.com
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 09:07 AM Thread Starter
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Need a course

I'm not at all new to riding, got 42 years. But this new GXSR600 handles so much different than my other bikes. I'm having trouble getting comfortable cornering. I have a tendency to go wide, especially during a right turn.
I do pride myself in never having had a wreck involving another vehicle. I have low sided a couple of times, but that was just me being stupid.
I have 2 simple rules off thumb:
1) the idiot 1/4 mile up IS GOING TO PULL OUT IN FRONT OF YOU, be ready.
2) everybody on the road is an asshole, except me. ( debatable )
So to get my confidence back, I think a level 1 course might help.
I can't find any info on this, even contacted Barber Mtrspts.
Can anyone hook me up with info on when, where, who & how much $.
Appreciate any help provided.

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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 09:22 AM
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It sounds like you are used to wider bars and you’re not counter steering with enough force.
I took the Lee Parks course several years ago and highly recommend it.
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 09:22 AM
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Look up the "motorcycle safety foundation"
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. The lack of initial countersteer could very well be the issue, but I'm so used to not having to do so that it sort of scares me that I'll dump it if I do. I guess I could practice it in a park lot?
Checked the MSF website too. There is something offered about 20 miles from me. I'll definitely look into that too.
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 12:46 PM
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The rider course is a great idea.
Go to a large parking lot/mall w/ little to no traffic, use some lines on the pavement, and practice smoothly turning. This way there is nothing to hit, run in to, off of, etc.

You'll pick it up in no time.

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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 01:13 PM
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I took an MSF basic course when I got back on a bike 10 years ago after not riding for a couple of decades. It was well worth the time.

Sport bike ergonomics are different with your upper body far forward. At speed this is not a problem but at slower speeds, we tend to support our upper body with the bars. That will lead to sluggish and unstable handling.

A couple of things will help:

Move the clip-ons out. Unless you are Marc Marquez or a ballerina your shoulders are a lot wider than the grips in the stock position. (The OEM bars have a lug that locks into the bottom of the upper triple that prevents movement. They can be easily removed with a small cut saw or dremel tool.)

Install some tank grip pads like stomp grip or Tech-spec. This will help you grip the tank with your knees easier, stabilizing your lower body and freeing up your upper body and arms.

And of course, practice, practice, practice.

Right hand turns seem to be the most common problem, including me. I chalk it up to the hand needing to be in a position to operate the throttle which tends to pull the arm in. Again, opening up the bars will help a bunch.

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If you think reading is tricky, how the hell are you going to follow troubleshooting directions?
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 01:17 PM
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Street bike before
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Street bike after
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Track bike for the last few years
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckster View Post
If you think reading is tricky, how the hell are you going to follow troubleshooting directions?
"Riding well is difficult, riding poorly is easy and painful."
- Nick Ienatsch


"We're all here because we're not all there" - Guy Favron on Gold Rush

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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rv6john View Post



A couple of things will help:

Move the clip-ons out. Unless you are Marc Marquez or a ballerina your shoulders are a lot wider than the grips in the stock position. (The OEM bars have a lug that locks into the bottom of the upper triple that prevents movement. They can be easily removed with a small cut saw or dremel tool.)

Install some tank grip pads like stomp grip or Tech-spec. This will help you grip the tank with your knees easier, stabilizing your lower body and freeing up your upper body and arms.

And of course, practice, practice, practice.
This is exactly why I came to this site! My gut says that moving the bars out will hep a bunch. It was the first thing I noticed when I test drove the bike. I didn't really notice it when just sitting on the bike, but when I entered the first turn, I struggled a bit. I know I need to practice, then practice some more, but little mods like this could really help. THANK YOU RV6JOHN !!!!!!!!!!
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 02:50 PM
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I should have mentioned that I moved them out till the levers just cleared the front cowling when the wheel was turned to the lock.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckster View Post
If you think reading is tricky, how the hell are you going to follow troubleshooting directions?
"Riding well is difficult, riding poorly is easy and painful."
- Nick Ienatsch


"We're all here because we're not all there" - Guy Favron on Gold Rush

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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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I should have mentioned that I moved them out till the levers just cleared the front cowling when the wheel was turned to the lock.
Good info, thanks again. My fender eliminator kit arrives tomorrow, so I guess I have some work to do.
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 05:53 PM Thread Starter
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I assume this is the lug that needs cutting?Click image for larger version

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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
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I assume this is the lug that needs cutting?Attachment 287685

Yes.

I was able to just slide the clip on down and by turning the wheel one way the clip on could move forward enough to move the lug out from under the triple.

A cut off grinder made quick work of it. You might want to put a piece of steel or aluminum behind it to protect the fork tube.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckster View Post
If you think reading is tricky, how the hell are you going to follow troubleshooting directions?
"Riding well is difficult, riding poorly is easy and painful."
- Nick Ienatsch


"We're all here because we're not all there" - Guy Favron on Gold Rush

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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 06:01 AM Thread Starter
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Having an issue getting the pinch bolt to break free. Using a crappy allen wrench with a small "persuader" pipe. Any idea what size allen it is? I can get an allen socket and use my long 3/8" ratchet.
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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 07:59 AM
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Having an issue getting the pinch bolt to break free. Using a crappy allen wrench with a small "persuader" pipe. Any idea what size allen it is? I can get an allen socket and use my long 3/8" ratchet.
Allen head pinch bolt?

My clip on is clamped with a 10mm bolt.

Maybe they changed this on later models (mine is a K6)

Just buy a set of metric allen head 3/8" drive tools. You will need them.

Quote:
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If you think reading is tricky, how the hell are you going to follow troubleshooting directions?
"Riding well is difficult, riding poorly is easy and painful."
- Nick Ienatsch


"We're all here because we're not all there" - Guy Favron on Gold Rush

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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 08:02 AM
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I just looked at the parts diagram for your L8 and it should also be a 10mm bolt to loosen the clip on.

There is no need to loosen the pinch bolt in the upper triple unless you want to remove the upper triple. You need to support the bike off the ground if you do.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckster View Post
If you think reading is tricky, how the hell are you going to follow troubleshooting directions?
"Riding well is difficult, riding poorly is easy and painful."
- Nick Ienatsch


"We're all here because we're not all there" - Guy Favron on Gold Rush

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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
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Nope, mine is a hex bolt.
Going out to get a set of metric hex sockets now
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Last edited by Old Fart; 06-10-2019 at 09:40 AM.
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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
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Nope, mine is a hex bolt.
Going out to get a set of metric hex sockets now
Six point is always better.

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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-10-2019, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
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Nope, mine is a hex bolt.
Going out to get a set of metric hex sockets now
Nice. Can't trust the internet! I would rather have allen hex myself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckster View Post
If you think reading is tricky, how the hell are you going to follow troubleshooting directions?
"Riding well is difficult, riding poorly is easy and painful."
- Nick Ienatsch


"We're all here because we're not all there" - Guy Favron on Gold Rush

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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019, 07:17 AM Thread Starter
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A #6 Allen socket made it easy. Dremel took care of the lugs. Waiting on the mail for my new tag lites to show up, then test ride.
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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-11-2019, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
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Got er done. Used two of the tag bolt type lites, but mounted them to the bracket directly above tag, shining down. This way I won't have to cut & splice wires again when I get my permanent tag.

Moving the bars out definitely helped. A big thank you to rv6john for that bit of wisdom. I'm much more confident going into corners, but still have some learning to do. I just did 30 miles around town making a bunch of turns on sides streets, etc.

This 7000rpm limit during break in is killing me!
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post #21 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 04:51 AM
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A couple of things that made a huge difference for me...

1. Using a screwdriver grip makes it much more natural and comfortable in right hand turns. You can comfortably get good body position and manipulate the throttle. It even helps to use the screwdriver grip with my left hand during left hand turns even though theres no throttle.

2. Adjusting the controls. The stock angle of the brake and clutch lever was such that I was having to rotate my hands back, then up and over, to switch between the bars and the levers. That is no good. I angled the levers down until it only required a simple finger reach to go from gripping the bar to reaching the lever. Its smoother, faster, and more comfortable.
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post #22 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 12:35 PM
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As had been mentioned, get some tank grips so you can use your knees to hold on rather than your hands. The tank is too slippery to be able to do this easily which is where the grips help so much.

Once you’re holding on with your knees, you should focus on loosening your grip with your hands. It feels odd to begin with but makes a world of difference with the ability to control the steering.

As for running wide exiting a corner, try turning in much later than you’re used to. When you get to the turn in point, move your head so you’re looking at where you want the bike to go and then push the handlebar on the side you want to turn. To turn right, push the right bar. Use a short, sharp push and release. The bike will magically turn to the right. It sounds scary and feels scary the first few times. Just practice at speeds a little slower than you would normally take the corner. Soon it will feel natural and you won’t be running wide anymore.

Have fun!


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