Revalving 07 GSXR1000 front forks & springs few pics - GSXR.com
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-29-2018, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
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Revalving 07 GSXR1000 front forks & springs few pics

Springs came in today, so I started the front fork work.
Revalving your forks takes patience, common sense and a clean environment.
I made a spanner tool out of a wrench same diameter as the seal head of the cartridge. Cut notches in it.
Here's a few pics.
I'm using Ohlins Compression and rebound valve kit for my stock forks and Racetech .95kg springs, stock was 1.0kg, too stiff for my weight.
Here's an idea of how intracate the stock valving stack is, this is the rebound stack from inside the cartridge taken off

Rebound valve post minus shims, you have to grind the peened end off the remove the nut.

Then screw nut back on and taper grind the end then unscrew nut, so the new nut goes on easily with loctite.
This is the new stack, its on a plastic rod that you put the point into the end of your valve and simply slide all the shims on directly. (dont drop shims!)





This is how you know you're staying busy, crap everywhere lol

You also drill two 4mm holes on the seal head where the bottom out piston pushes in, this eliminates the loss of almost an inch of travel, helps utilize your full suspension, you can see the piston that travels into the seal head.


The compression valve is located on the side or your lower fork leg, it's unscrewed and stack replaced just like the rebound. Rebound is internal and compression is external so to speak.


My stock springs are 1/2 inch shorter than the racetechs. Im going to cut my top spring spacers to even the difference.

This kit recommends Ohlins oil by part number, but it's a 7.5wt oil, so I just ordered PJ1 7.5wt.
Hopefully I'll have this back together tonight and install rear shock tomorrow.
I'll have it serviced at the end of this season. Seller says shock has 2k miles on it.


I just posted this for the guys who havent seen any of this before.
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Last edited by Racerxxxgsxr1000; 03-29-2018 at 08:25 PM.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-29-2018, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-29-2018, 10:17 PM
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7.5wt weight oils are not even close to equal to each other. Did you make sure to check the viscosity ratings of the Ohlins 7.5wt and that PJ oil?

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-30-2018, 12:28 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Just_Nick View Post
7.5wt weight oils are not even close to equal to each other. Did you make sure to check the viscosity ratings of the Ohlins 7.5wt and that PJ oil?
Thats a good point, I wasnt even thinking about that.
I've opted to use the Racetech US-1 its only 3 cSt different than the Ohlins 1309-01 on the lighter side. The PJ1 7.5wt was 8 cSt different on the heavier side.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-30-2018, 12:43 PM
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Very neat! thanks for sharing. I always like seeing stuff taken apart.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-30-2018, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
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Very neat! thanks for sharing. I always like seeing stuff taken apart.
Every time I finish a revalve it makes me want to buy a fully assembled cartridge next time

Got it all back together. I had it on 8 comp and 8 rebound on clicks, it felt pretty stiff. I backed comp/rebound all the way out and it softened right up(too soft like it should). There's good adjustment, a wide range. Stock settings are now out the window.

Now have to set highspeed compression and lowspeed compression and rebound. Its going to take track time to get that right. At least I can get the sag numbers to start with.

Rear shock didnt make it today. USPS sucks. It was shipped on the 28th from Houston, an hour and a half drive from me. Still not here.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-31-2018, 06:45 AM
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Yuck! That's I hate it when parts don't show up in time. Hopefully it will arrive today!
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-31-2018, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racerxxxgsxr1000 View Post
Thats a good point, I wasnt even thinking about that.
I've opted to use the Racetech US-1 its only 3 cSt different than the Ohlins 1309-01 on the lighter side. The PJ1 7.5wt was 8 cSt different on the heavier side.
Glad to hear that. It's amazing how different they are, and I've definitely seen more than one story that ended with someone having to replace the fork oil after using something that had a significantly higher viscosity than what was called for when they thought all fork fluid was the same.

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-31-2018, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
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Glad to hear that. It's amazing how different they are, and I've definitely seen more than one story that ended with someone having to replace the fork oil after using something that had a significantly higher viscosity than what was called for when they thought all fork fluid was the same.
When I need seals, I'll probably go with the Ohlins.
Yea, the US1 is pretty close, I figure, you cant do anything with too thick of oil, but I can probably add a little comp or rebound to a lighter oil and be ok.

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-31-2018, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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Yuck! That's I hate it when parts don't show up in time. Hopefully it will arrive today!
Was happy to see it in the mailbox today (I have a big mailbox lol)
I had my disappointment train of thought going as I was walking to the mailbox, thinking "Oh well, I'll just get it Monday if it's not there" woohoo it was there.

This shock was for an 05-06 GSXR1000 and my trackbike is an 07, but the eyelet lengths are the same.
The 05-06 came stock with a .81kg but Racetech recommends a .96kg
My 07 came stock with a 1.0kg and Racetech recommends 1.2kg

Im not sure if the shock internals are different or the linkage between the years. I'm going to run static sag and rider sag numbers and I'll know what to do from there, keeping my fingers crossed.
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-31-2018, 04:10 PM
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Are the bolt diameters the same between years?

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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-31-2018, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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Are the bolt diameters the same between years?
Yep same diameter and length.
The only problem was the air valve end was touching the very inside lip of the subframe(hence specific bike listing)
BUT, I have a dremel and motivation
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-31-2018, 04:44 PM
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Motivation is key.

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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-01-2018, 05:07 AM
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I wouldn't cut anything. Part of the difference in length is fatigue. RaceTech knows what they're doing. Installed preload might be a bit higher, so just backoff your external preload for the correct sag.
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-01-2018, 07:21 AM Thread Starter
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I wouldn't cut anything. Part of the difference in length is fatigue. RaceTech knows what they're doing. Installed preload might be a bit higher, so just backoff your external preload for the correct sag.
I took just a 1/4 inch off the spacer and already had preload backed out. To get correct static sag I only moved preload to the first line. Which is about 2mm. If I hadn't cut it, I wouldn't have got the correct sag number and would have had to go back in.
Racetech instructions mentioned comparing to stock springs as they may be different.
I simply guesstimated a 1/4 inch of old spring wear and as they sat, the racetech was a little over 1/2 inch longer than what I had.
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