|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|09-08-2019 09:22 PM|
The leak turned out to be my lower left side radiator hose from the water pump. It had a small crack on the inside of the hose just enough to leak when the water pump was wailing along at the track.
Found a "good" deal on some Samco hoses and just installed them. A couple of the hoses were a PITA to get on and off but I managed. Never wanted to pay $300 for hoses, but it seemed to be a good time to replace them all just in case another was on its way out.
Felt obliged paying another $50 for clamps that are "silcone hose safe."
So, my last track weekend in a couple weeks will likely just be a trackday. Oh well...
|09-01-2019 09:18 AM|
Tire wear was much better. Still had that cold tear appearance but not as severe. i was dropping tire pressure all day to keep the rear around 26psi for a pirelli SC1 rear. No warmers.
i keep loosing coolant somehow. the reservoir goes empty after a full day at the track but i havent noticed any major leaks. only that last session did the temps get up in 210's on the grid before the fan kicked in and dropped it to 200. then after we got moving, 160-170.
this morning, i topped off the radiator about a cup i think and filled the reservoir. the hoses seem ok. not obvious leakage, but i have yet to restart the bike.
bike is handling great, i'm hanging in with the faster group in intermediate and I seem to be running less lean angle than some of them. Not sure why. maybe the rear is jacked up so high. i still have plenty of lean angle to give, and im sure if i did a few more trackdays this year, id eventually get there.
Bike is very easy to transition. before the wheel swap, in one particular corner i would get a brief little nasty headshake coming quickly off wot and flicking it into a right hander. With these lighter wheels (or something else?) i didnt experience the headshake. i felt like i was cheating a little out there. too bad Im not faster to take advantage of the package.
|08-26-2019 07:50 PM|
I can't believe yesterday was the first time back on a bike in almost 1 1/2 months since the last trackday.
Summer has flown by.
First trip out on the Apex wheels and some SC1's. Bike is more responsive, easier to change direction entering the corner and mid corner if needed. A little easier to hold a line. Braking seems improved.
I've made some suspension changes to see if this weekend's trackday will be kinder to my rear tire.
If I see some of the same wear, I'll stop by the trackside suspension guy and see what he recommends.
|07-24-2019 09:55 PM|
Total weight savings 5.2#'s for the set. Not quite what I was hoping for, but 5 pounds of rotating/unsprung weight savings is nothing to sneeze at.
The OEM front is admirably light for a stock piece.
The core moto rear is impressive light.
With a 1/2 tank of gas, in track trim, I should be just into the high 350's to 360 pounds.
|07-23-2019 11:40 PM|
After waiting a LONG time, the core moto wheels finally arrived.
They look great, but all that matters to me is the weight and performance. (and price point/durability which is why I chose aluminum in the end)
Rear wheel measured against OEM with the same components installed (aluminum sprockets) is almost 4#'s less.
I still have to remove and weigh the OEM front wheel/tire.
I will spoon on some new Supercorsa TD's as soon as I find a supplier that has them.
Hopefully, after figuring out my tire wear issue, these will last more than one trackday...
|05-31-2019 03:28 PM|
|05-31-2019 01:24 PM|
|JCW||pro bolt's axle nut is not drilled. Yeah, I was kinda disappointed.|
|05-31-2019 11:49 AM|
|tigerblade||Trying to remember which axle nut I actually have on mine now. Had one aluminum one but the anodized color wore off pretty quickly. Would like to find a good pre-drilled one.|
|05-31-2019 09:51 AM|
i didnt actually buy $400 in ti hardware, but i did get probolt's ti rear axle nut. not so much for any weight saved, but to avoid thsat thread eating locking mechanism of the oem nut.
i'll get a pic posted.
the core moto wheels are ~$2100. way better than the $4k of BST, at least thats what i keep telling myself...
|05-31-2019 08:06 AM|
|05-31-2019 07:56 AM|
|PaulPhilly||Nice keep working hard u will have it complete in no time|
|05-31-2019 07:31 AM|
Finally got off my a$$ and installed the used Nomar into the garage floor.
I changed the tires out for new SP's. definitely can be a slight struggle until you get the technique down. didn't bother warming the tires up either. that would have helped. but, it beats the hell out of spooning them on.
I figure if I can change my car's tires then the unit will be worth it. As a matter of fact, not having to wait for service and driving there and back is "almost" worth it already especially bought used.
Weighed the bike in track mode- no sidestand, lights, track plastics and a full tank of gas- 380#'s. About 1/2 full it was 365#'s. Didn't know gas was quite that heavy. Although I guess oil and water(coolant) is even heavier.
I am waiting on some core moto wheels which should drop another 8 pounds or more. I just couldn't pony up the extra 1.5+ grand for carbon fiber. I may still get that race alternator.
|04-13-2019 09:30 AM|
LOL, just for fun I priced out some Ti hardware on the bike.
Thought I would first start with the large bolts M10 and bigger. They are primarily in the rear suspension linkage and shock. A rear axle nut because I've f'd up a couple axles already because of suzuki's locking nut design.
Then the fasteners on the rotating and unsprung locations. Rotor bolts, sprocket nuts.
I threw in the fasteners for the Sato race concept rearsets, too. They use 6 bolts on each side! a little overkill.
It came out to over $400!!! And could have easily been more. The caliper bolts and subframe bolts are drilled and seem pretty light already so I skipped those.
Waiting on some core moto wheels...
Weighed the bike in "road worthy" form. a crg mirror, small led headlights, taillight, side stand. and it stands at 380+#'s. I'm starting to obsess about weight but at this point the price to return ratio really sucks.
|03-23-2019 03:00 PM|
Hope to see you this season; I live about an hour from Joliet so it would be more convenient. I just found that MWTD was a better bang for the buck; no season memberships required and early bird pricing was $155 last season.
I went up to Road America last season; wow thatís a fast track. Had to make a mini-vacation out of it; a day to get up there, overnight hotel, a day of riding, and then a day to get home. I would like to see more tracks (Grattan, Barber, etc) but I donít have the time to travel very far at the moment.
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|03-23-2019 08:43 AM|
I do autobahn several times each year. It's really to only one I do regularly. If you decide to go and want someone to pit next to, hit me up!
I've stayed overnight once near Gingerman. It is an option but I don't think I really got that much more sleep. I try the week before I'm going to the track to adjust my sleep schedule and get up early.
|03-22-2019 10:07 PM|
I did a MotoVid clinic last season. I found that riding with a CR (regular track day) and getting feedback after each session was more valuable than the rider clinics.
Not sure if Iím going to continue with Motovid (4 groups) or MWTD (3 groups) this season.
Autobahn with STT is another option; getting up at 4:30 and driving for two hours up to S. Beloit sucks.
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|03-18-2019 09:27 PM|
Buttoned up the clutch and went riding up and down the street. It was only in the mid to upper 40's so it was not for long. Clutch effort was decreased. I didn't downshift hard to really test the slipper, but on the shifts I did, the bike was unfazed. Clutch definitely was less grabby and engaged very smoothly. Well, f it, $300 for a new OEM clutch basket it better be better.
I weighed my bike after doing the first of the year oil change and refilling the cooling system.
Pleasantly happy with 363#. 190 front, 173 back. about a 52/48 split. Once on the bike, the weight distribution flips and it's almost 30 pounds more on the rear than the front.
I think I'll be in the mid to upper 350's after a couple last upgrades. wheels, etc. Then I'll be ready for the season and probably for good with the bike other than cosmetic stuff like getting the fairings painted.
Just hoping for no crashes this year.
|03-08-2019 12:25 PM|
I have OEM fairings with light rash having flipped the bike over and over and over...
Yeah, I managed to crack or destroy every single body panel. Nothing survived.
|03-08-2019 03:43 AM|
|02-26-2019 08:08 AM|
|02-25-2019 02:40 PM|
Originally Posted by tigerblade View Post
|02-25-2019 08:36 AM|
|02-24-2019 02:24 PM|
These days are for the coaching too? I can try to make one, depending on my work schedule too.
|02-24-2019 02:19 PM|
I plan on doing an instructional day instead of a regular track day. Since I've never been to BHF, I'll aim low.
Looks like they have three dates but all on Mondays.
Mon. Jun 10th
Mon. Jul 15th
Mon. Aug 19th
It's more $$$ but I'm interested to see if the class will teach me a thing or two.
Nothing is set in stone, just kicking ideas around.
|02-24-2019 02:11 PM|
|02-24-2019 08:51 AM|
Yeah. Winter has been dragging on too long. Can't wait to get out there again.
I'm thinking about doing a motovid performance riding clinic at Blackhawk Farms in Beloit this year.
|02-24-2019 06:27 AM|
hi there JCW,
I've read most all your thread. Nice work, you do get technical, which is really cool.
I reside not too far north of you. Maybe one day we can meet up for a little ride when you're on the streets?
|02-23-2019 03:05 PM|
Looking at a pic on the internet of a TSS slipper, it looks like Iím good to go...
|02-23-2019 02:46 PM|
Hereís a pic of what I mean. See the top fiber plate is in a different slot.
|02-23-2019 02:42 PM|
Clutch is in.
Not sure why but with the correct number of plates installed, 9 fiber, 8 steel, the last fiber plate did not reach far enough on the basket that I could insert it in the alternate slots that donít go all the way down. So I just slid it in the same slots as the rest.
Since the slipper action depends partly on the height of the plates, I canít just add plates to the hub. That would make it way too thick.
I could add a shim under the hub (there is the OEM washer there already) but I that would mess up the clutch push rod length. The clutch looks like it disengages just fine now, sitting in the garage.
Does anyone know why those alternative slots on the clutch basket are there and why they say to put the final fiber plate in them?
|02-21-2019 10:22 PM|
Doing a Suter slipper clutch install and wanted to jot down some notes.
To get close to the specs of the drive/driven plate thickness recommended by Suter, I had to order an additional thin steel plate to replace one of the standard steel plate. That makes a total of 6 standard steels and 2 thin steels to go with the 9 fiber plates.
This gives me around 1.583" thickness which is just 3 thou over the high end of the recommended plate thickness spec'd by Suter. I figure with some wear, it should fall right into range.
I replaced the clutch basket due to wear and needle bearing out of priciple; the base washer and spring washer that fits at the bottom of the clutch hub were replaced as well.
hopefully I'll get everything buttoned up by next week.
|02-03-2019 10:24 AM|
Back in the garage after the polar vortex passed.
I was doing some clutch maintenance and an upgrade and noticed my clutch basket is worn. The fingers on the clutch basket look like a ribbed condom.
The basket and gear assembly is expensive at almost $300. I'll replace the needle bearing at the same time since I'm there and it's not expensive.
If anyone has any suggestions on this job, please post them.
Is it worth drilling extra holes in the new basket??? I'm thinking no...
|09-16-2018 07:00 PM|
I really have no NEED for a QC axle, but would seriously consider it if the quality is much better and/or some weight savings can be realized. As it is, though, It almost looks like it would add weight. Sure would be nice to have the lightech adjusters and the nice machined axle, though...
Went out for a 40 minute ride today. Not long, but the loop I ride and the corners I pick are pretty work intensive. I pushed pretty hard and did some heavy braking tests from 100-130.
Turn in is same to a little more sharp. Not a huge change.
Mid turn stability is fine. No real issues I noted. The suspension was managing smaller bumps a little better in turns, but it still felt harsh on larger bumps
Corner exit was improved. Not by leaps and bounds but it was noticeably less running wide.
Braking stability was definitely compromised. I would rarely brake this hard on track on purpose at my level, but today with heavy brake applications, the bike would do the slow weave dance. You know that feeling? Looking at my zip tie on the fork, it appears I'm blowing through the fork travel.
I bought my tools to adjust the suspension but had no clue. Everything felt fine so I left it alone. (maybe the only thing was weaving on hard brakes could have used some more compression dampening) It will probably have to wait for the track where you are really using the suspension range to fine tune things. Otherwise, for the street, they were a huge waste of money. LOL but I knew that...
|09-16-2018 05:38 AM|
L1 750 Track/Street build
Sounds like a nuisance. Consider quick release axles?
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|09-15-2018 09:48 PM|
I was able to get the first nut off, but the second one required the angle grinder and cutoff wheel. Lost the axle, too.
|09-15-2018 09:44 PM|
I measured my swingarm angle thinking it would be on the high side with the longer shock and 4mm shim in back. I was worried both about rear traction with too much anti squat and about front end stability problems.
With the gearing at 16/45 (-1/+0), I measured the swingarm length at about 32 1/16". (should it be longer?)
Swingarm angle with the bike on the floor was measured 9.7deg. Offloaded measured 10.8 deg. I've read a good starting point is around 12.5deg offloaded.
So I THINK I'm still well in the safe zone particularly with the triple offset reduced by 3mm to regain the lost trail from the rear ride height increase.
Hopefully tomorrow I will be able to ride a little and see how she holds a line coming out of a corner. And if the front is stable enough at these geometry numbers. Usually, gassing it on a cloverleaf ramp is a good indicator of whether a bike want to hold it's line or not.
Man, Suzuki really neutered this bike's geometry. It's like it could have come from the factory with a 1/2" longer shock and smaller offset triple and still be easy to ride.
|09-15-2018 09:21 PM|
How are the axle nuts getting destroyed? Were they overtorqued?
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|09-14-2018 12:03 AM|
Put on the 520 conversion with 16/45 sprocket set. I destroyed another axle nut trying to remove it and this time the axle went with it. Fortunately, I had a spare axle and used an old nut.
What is it with these lock nuts??? I'm never using one again. If the ones in the frame seize, I'll be up sh!t creek.
|09-12-2018 10:05 PM|
After 1+ seasons on the stock suspension (forks with some Traxxion reshimming and refreshing, rear shock with 4mm shim), I decided to look for some aftermarket stuff.
At the track, I felt the stock suspension needed to be set stiff to feel planted when braking and cornering hard, but then was too stiff for the bumps. Also, they just didn't feel as precise or as "plush" as other bikes I've owned with aftermarket suspension. Nothing seriously wrong with them. The oem rear shock probably needed a rebuild.
I found some used gear on ebay and wera forums. A penske rear off a racebike(old motoamerica bike I think) and AK gas cartridges (these might have been passed around to more racers than I care to know) that had just been serviced.
A good point about servicing these components. I thought I was saving money, but I didn't consider the almost $200 for servicing the penske I was charged by a local suspension guy. After shelling out that money plus the price I paid, the difference was a couple hundred more for a brand new shock. So, just FYI.
Installation was uneventful other than I think my old forks were bent slightly as I had to use the shims that came with the IMA triples with the new (used) gas charged forks. I went through the whole sag measurement and preload set up. 30mm front, 25 back. I added a little extra rear shock length to the Penske to add to the shim I had under the upper shock mount. Everything was straightforward and easy.
I will over the next few days try to dial these in but in a short ride, the bike felt really well damped.
|08-22-2018 01:02 AM|
Just for reference sake.
assuming a stock 23.45deg rake and 97mm trail with 30mm fork offset...
assuming a 5mm rear shim raises the rear of the bike at the axle about 1" and decreases the rake 1 deg...
then using the -1 collar for 27mm offset in the IMA triples...
I calculate a trail of 94.3mm which would be just about spot on with what I was looking for, about 3mm less trail.
the -2 collar will give you 95.4mm, closer to stock to maybe not make a huge difference.
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