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What makes your front breaks jerk when coming to a stop? So far, I have replaced break pads, break discs, and rim. Someone last night told me it was the berings (pointing toward under the handle bars). I'm a female rider and I have am not trying to get taken for anymore money than I have so far....any suggestions?
 

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Sounds like you definatly got beat for some loot. When you say your front brakes jerk, what exactly is happening? When your braking your front forks/wheel feels like your pumping your brakes? What kind of bike is it? Did you bleed your brakes? Bearings are also a possibility, but if you don't do wheelies and stoppies and the bike is fairly new, I doubt it's stearing bearings. Can you give a more in depth description of what is happening?
 

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yea, explain the jerk some more and what bike it is.
 

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ruffrydershouston said:
What makes your front breaks jerk when coming to a stop? So far, I have replaced break pads, break discs, and rim. Someone last night told me it was the berings (pointing toward under the handle bars). I'm a female rider and I have am not trying to get taken for anymore money than I have so far....any suggestions?
try bleeding the breaks
 

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also, are you talking about sometimes when you come to a stop you hear like a knock? Like its hitting something? I've been trying to figure that out for myself. Someone said it was "steering bearing" loose or something. Bascially the middle of the tripple tree, those things can be tightened from what I heard.
 

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Pay attention, the heading says it is a 01 gsxr 1000. It could be the steering head bearings as has been suggested and they can be adjusted as has been said also. Another possibility is that the calipers where your pads locate could be worn, allowing the pads to move slightly when brakes are applied. T he most likely cause would be the head bearings though, good luck. Sit on your bike apply front brake and rock back and foreward see if you can locate the problem.
 

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My suggestion is the steering head bearings need regreasing, when they're re-assembled any play should be adjusted out. The factories are well known for not putting much grease in there. Try some Castrol LHM Lithium based grease or similar, that should do the trick.
 

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I to have a 03 gixxer 1K and noticed a slight clunking in my front when I applied the brakes. Upon inspecting my bike by getting the front wheel off the ground, I found it was play in the fork assembly. Also though normal, it was the slight clearance between the inter and outer fork tubes.

If you do want to upgrade your brakes to better brakes:

For a really good deal on brake needs, contact Melissa at CycleBrakes. 800-805-2118

http://www.cyclebrakes.com/

Bill
 

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Sit on your bike and look at the top triple clamp, that is where the top of your forks are, you will see three big nuts, the one right in the centre will have to be slightly loosened, next loosen the clamp bolts on the bottom triple clamp, now go back to the top clamp underneath the first big nut that was loosened you will see two lock nuts, they will have slots in them instead of the usual flat edges on a normal nut, the upper one will have to be turned counter clockwise, when you have it loose the bottom nut will be turned clockwise, do not overtighten it just take up any slack that it may have. There is a special spanner called a C spanner for these nuts but a steel punch and hammer can be used to tap the nuts in the desired direction. When you take up the slack on the bottom nut then lock the top nut back in position, turn it clockwise to lock it against the bottom nut, tighten the first big nut on top of the top clamp, tighten the clamp nuts on the bottom triple clamp and you should be good to go. I would advise having a friend with a little spannering know how to help, or at least two heads are better than one in these situations. Good luck, take your time pay careful attention to what you are doing and if you do not feel confident about doing the adjustment get it done at a workshop. The forks are a critical part of the steering and therefore must be done correctly.
 

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Tricky Dicky said:
Sit on your bike and look at the top triple clamp, that is where the top of your forks are, you will see three big nuts, the one right in the centre will have to be slightly loosened, next loosen the clamp bolts on the bottom triple clamp, now go back to the top clamp underneath the first big nut that was loosened you will see two lock nuts, they will have slots in them instead of the usual flat edges on a normal nut, the upper one will have to be turned counter clockwise, when you have it loose the bottom nut will be turned clockwise, do not overtighten it just take up any slack that it may have. There is a special spanner called a C spanner for these nuts but a steel punch and hammer can be used to tap the nuts in the desired direction. When you take up the slack on the bottom nut then lock the top nut back in position, turn it clockwise to lock it against the bottom nut, tighten the first big nut on top of the top clamp, tighten the clamp nuts on the bottom triple clamp and you should be good to go. I would advise having a friend with a little spannering know how to help, or at least two heads are better than one in these situations. Good luck, take your time pay careful attention to what you are doing and if you do not feel confident about doing the adjustment get it done at a workshop. The forks are a critical part of the steering and therefore must be done correctly.
yea thats what my friend told me. I tried it and it just didn't seem right. I took a flat head and hammer. Just doesn't seem like its the right tools, didn't want to fuck something up. Guess I will just take it to a shop instead.
 

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Try and get a local mechanic to do it at your place, watch and see exactly what he does. It is not rocket science but it is nice to see it being done first before you try it yourself. It is always safer to be 100% sure before you attempt a job on your own.
 

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BallHawk3 said:
so fellas, how do you adjust this "head bearing"? I've been trying to figure that out myself. Will this solve the "knocking" noise?
There's a "castlelated threaded ring below the top yoke that is used to adjust the bearing preload, once this is tightened so there;s no slop in the steering tube, but the steering is still free to move, refit the top yoke, tighten yoke/steerer nut to recommended torque setting, tighten pinch bolts and it's done.
 
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