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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
For those experienced with building or freshening up engines especially those with new Nikasil.

2002 Suzuki GSXR 750 (mine)
80,000 miles.

It finally fell below compression tolerances and I am freshening it up. I tore it apart and had the machine shop check the bores (1000th out of spec), and the level of the deck (perfectly level).
Sent the block to millennium-tech in WI. Received it back after about a month ($750 with shipping roughly). The deck of the block is textured and not factory smooth so I called them to ensure I could bolt the factory Suzuki head gasket to it (they said yes). Following the 02 Suzuki service manual with new equipment I did the initial 15ft lbs then 33.2 final (seems low but I went with it) to the head bolts. Tried to start the engine once it was back in and nothing. After it sat for the night I looked into the cylinders and noticed coolant in all of them. MT suggested I either didn’t chase the threads (I did), use oil on the threads (I did), use a good head gasket (brand new OEM Suzuki), or tighten it down properly (I though I did). So I pulled the engine back apart and am at the point where I have just sent them pictures to again ensure the deck does not need to be smooth.

My questions for you all:
Have you ever had a Nikasil block, was it dull grey and/or textured?
Can I reuse the head gasket since it was never fired up and did not lose its Viton coating?
Are the old torque values irrelevant now based on inaccurate torque wrench potential or thread stretching (newer service manuals are 22ft lbs and 60 degree final turn)? Did I under torque them?

While I appreciate all opinions, for obvious reasons I am looking for responses from folks who have dealt with this very specific info.


Pics will be included.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Additional pic of the 2004 gsxr 750 service manual head bolt install vs my 2002.
Font Recipe Parallel Paper Paper product
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Response from MT:

The surface of the block is perfect.

It passed our quality control and is also flat by our measurements and yours when we spoke.

You can clean the top deck with a brush and simple green, and the same with the gasket.

Check the cylinder head for flatness. This may be leading to a poor seal.
 

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That block looks like new.

Is there any possibility of a crack somewhere that’s allowing coolant to get to where it shouldn’t be?

Edit : just reread your post.

Ignore this paragraph:
I don’t have experience in what you’re doing, but want to ask about the condition of the cylinder head. Have you checked that the head is dead flat or had it machined flat? What about the valves? Are all the valves are seating perfectly? In car engines I used the old fashioned quick check of pouring kerosene into the ports to make sure there were no leaks after reseating the valves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I had the head checked by the machine shop also. It’s flat, has no cracks, and pulls the correct amount of vacuum. Nothing was wrong with this motor before I tore it down except lower compression but 160 on all cylinders. I’m leaning toward bad torque values and an old torque procedure. Mostly wanted to see if anyone else had similar looking results with their Nikasil block.
 
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