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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2004 Gsxr 600 and recently just changed the ignition fuse and bike started to work again. Now I ran into a problem where the fuel pump wouldn't prime. I was doing some testing and jumped the R/Bl wire to the Y/R wire and pumped primed. So I thought I had a faulty relay so I finally got the new one and still nothing. So I pulled out the wiring diagram and realized I should be getting 12V to the O/W wire at the relay and I am getting .04V. So this is what leads me to think that's my problem. I am getting the 12V at the starter switch but not to the Relay. Any idea what my problem could be. So I have no power at the O/W wire at the relay.
 

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Welcome.

Have you double checked the fuel fuse as well as any corrosion in the fuse block socket?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have checked all fuses and switched them all around. Was getting voltage to the fuses but I will buy new ones tomorrow. The only thing is thing is not sure why the O/W is getting no voltage. It’s not
In line with any fuses.
 

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I have checked all fuses and switched them all around. Was getting voltage to the fuses but I will buy new ones tomorrow. The only thing is thing is not sure why the O/W is getting no voltage. It’s not
In line with any fuses.
Sounds like it is time to break out the wiring diagram and start tracing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sounds like it is time to break out the wiring diagram and start tracing.
That’s what I have been doing and I don’t see anything clearly disconnected. I manually grounded the Y/B wire and I got nothing. Then I jumped my wire from the ignition switch to the O/W wire at the relay and worked properly.
 

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What does the dash say, CHEC or Temp?

Side stand up? Bike in Neutral? Kill switch ON? These can all stop 12v to O/W.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It does just say CHEC but I swore it has also had just said CHEC until it started running. And I tried standing it up and cycling it and nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
What does the dash say, CHEC or Temp?

Side stand up? Bike in Neutral? Kill switch ON? These can all stop 12v to O/W.
The only thing I didn’t do was check the voltage at the O/W when the stand was up. I thought it was going to get the voltage regardless of the stand. Since it comes straight from the start switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I also jumped a wire from the starter switch to the relay (jumping the O/W wire) primed the fuel pump like normal. So I may have a short somewhere in that line. Any thoughts
 

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It's not going to run with CHEC.

You said that you have 12v on the O/W, at the Starter Switch.
Does the starter motor work?(NB. You need to pull the clutch).

If the starter motor works, then it sounds to me like you have a bad connection somewhere after the starter switch.

The ignition coils come after the starter switch. You should have 12v on the Gray wires at
the coils.
( Eg. Ignition switch On, Kill switch On, Side stand Up or in Neutral, with multimeter in DC volts,
put the Red probe on Gray wire and Black probe on Battery Negative. You should have 12v.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It's not going to run with CHEC.

You said that you have 12v on the O/W, at the Starter Switch.
Does the starter motor work?(NB. You need to pull the clutch).

If the starter motor works, then it sounds to me like you have a bad connection somewhere after the starter switch.

The ignition coils come after the starter switch. You should have 12v on the Gray wires at
the coils.
( Eg. Ignition switch On, Kill switch On, Side stand Up or in Neutral, with multimeter in DC volts,
put the Red probe on Gray wire and Black probe on Battery Negative. You should have 12v.)
I’ll take a look when I get home from work and check for 12v at the ignition
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It's not going to run with CHEC.

You said that you have 12v on the O/W, at the Starter Switch.
Does the starter motor work?(NB. You need to pull the clutch).

If the starter motor works, then it sounds to me like you have a bad connection somewhere after the starter switch.

The ignition coils come after the starter switch. You should have 12v on the Gray wires at
the coils.
( Eg. Ignition switch On, Kill switch On, Side stand Up or in Neutral, with multimeter in DC volts,
put the Red probe on Gray wire and Black probe on Battery Negative. You should have 12v.)
And yes the stater motor works. I recently just had to change the fuse for my ignition and cranked up no problem after I did. Now I’m having this issue.
 

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CHEC can be a false reading too if the signal wire between the ECM and cluster is bad. Why did you need to change the ignition fuse?

The fuel pump relay isn't all that complicated. Have you done voltage tests there to make sure it's being triggered?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
CHEC can be a false reading too if the signal wire between the ECM and cluster is bad. Why did you need to change the ignition fuse?

The fuel pump relay isn't all that complicated. Have you done voltage tests there to make sure it's being triggered?
Yea I got voltage at the R/Bl wire just not the O/W wire. And I changed the ignition fuse because the bike wouldn’t crank. During that I ended up pulling the kill switch assembly apart and I guess I didn’t tighten it enough so when I was riding the whole unit would twist with the throttle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I also did jump a wire from the start switch to the relay and primed up like normal. But I never got to crank it cause the battery is now getting 10V from accidentally leaving my key on. So it may be dead
 

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Now we're getting somewhere. No power on O/W means you're not getting power from the kill switch. Do some testing there. More precisely, where the pod connects to the harness. The O/B wire should be hot when the key is on and gets power directly from the ignition fuse. It's also only energized when the safety interlock (kick stand, GP switch) conditions are met. Since you popped the ignition fuse, and were goofing with the switch pod, then I suspect that's where the problem is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Now we're getting somewhere. No power on O/W means you're not getting power from the kill switch. Do some testing there. More precisely, where the pod connects to the harness. The O/B wire should be hot when the key is on and gets power directly from the ignition fuse. It's also only energized when the safety interlock (kick stand, GP switch) conditions are met. Since you popped the ignition fuse, and were goofing with the switch pod, then I suspect that's where the problem is.
Well where power jumps from the kill switch to power the start switch I get 12V there so I know the kill switch is working. The O/W wire when kill switch off no 0 voltage. When I turn it to run I get 12V at the O/W wire at the start switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Now we're getting somewhere. No power on O/W means you're not getting power from the kill switch. Do some testing there. More precisely, where the pod connects to the harness. The O/B wire should be hot when the key is on and gets power directly from the ignition fuse. It's also only energized when the safety interlock (kick stand, GP switch) conditions are met. Since you popped the ignition fuse, and were goofing with the switch pod, then I suspect that's where the problem is.
Also what is the GP switch?
 

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Also what is the GP switch?
Gear position switch. It turns the neutral light on and also is a condition for the side stand safety relay to actuate and allow the bike to start and run. Easy check. Is the neutral light on in neutral?
 
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