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The Bestest Racer
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've seen a bunch of threads recently about bikes not starting consistently, the headlight going in/out, etc. Most of the threads mention a combination or variation of the two problems, and the fix is to replace the right handlebar switch pod. You can recondition the starter switch for free.

Around 2004, Suzuki changed the design of the starter button. Instead of a single contact switch, its now a slider contact switch which disengages the headlight while starting, and reconnects it when the starter button is out. These new style switches are prone to corrosion build up, and therefore faulty operation.

I recently converted my 2001 front end to a 2006 front suspension, and included in that was some electrical work to switch to the newer style electrical controls on the clip ons. When doing the right pod, I noticed the headlight and starter wires were giving me weird numbers, and not working all the time, so I took it apart.

Once you get the pod off the bike, it'll look like so:



Pull the little black spacer / alignment piece out, and
Unscrew the plastic cover on top of the starter switch



Now you can unscrew the starter button and pull it out.



Starter switch is out



Now pop the two halves apart with a small screwdriver.



Here are the contacts that need to be cleaned. Sorry for the crappy picture, but if you look closely you can see 4 black lines, one on each contact. This is the corrosion build up. Lightly sand the contacts with a high grit sand paper.



All clean and shiny. Now apply a very thin layer of dielectric grease to the contacts. Ready to clean the other half.





Carefully pop the spring and contact portion out of the starter button, and run the contacts across the sand paper. Try to vary the angle slightly to cover more of the round contacts.

Reassemble. As soon as I got the pod back together, the starter button was reading perfect continuity and controlling the starter and headlight beautifully.

 

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The Bestest Racer
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Discussion Starter #3
Glad to help out fellow riders, my pleasure. Hopefully lots of people get good use out of it. :thumbup:
 

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The Bestest Racer
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Discussion Starter #4
Just wanted to post a quick update. Had this switch pod running a month now after cleaning it, and its still perfect.
 

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I just noticed tonight that my headlight was off once I started my bike up. Could this be the starter switch? My headlight comes on (DDM HID kit) and starts warming up. I normally let it warm up until it's at it's brightest, then start the bike. When I do that, the headlight either cut out immediately or would cut off after a split second of starting. When I would flick the high-beam switch on, the light would come on (inconsistently, sometimes it did, sometimes it didn't) with the high beam. Totally pissed me off because I was looking forward to a night ride.
 

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The Bestest Racer
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Discussion Starter #6
It very well could be, as the headlight wiring is run through the start switch, and the circuit is opened when the started button is pressed.

I believe with HID's you would want to run them on a relay off the battery though, as HID's do tend to pull a lot of current on start up.
 

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u think maybe this is why im not getting any fire ive tried and tried but cant figure it out im thinking it could be one of the switches
 

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The Bestest Racer
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Discussion Starter #8
This switch only controls the headlight and the starter, so if the engine turns over you've gotta look elsewhere.
 

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I had this problem and I bought a brand new starter switch and put it on.All was well. Well about a week later I go to back out of my drive way and I had turned to handle bars all the way to my right(pulled right side towards me) and the entire bike just dies, no power to bike at all no headlight no gage cluster, nothing. I have NO CLUe what has caused this, I replaced all of the fuses in hopes that it was simple and that I could have a easy fix but that didn't work either, any ideas here?
 

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:thumbup: I learned something new today. Good stuff.
 

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The Bestest Racer
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Discussion Starter #13
Have you checked all the connections in the nose cone? Sounds like one of them came loose and popped out when you turned sharply.
 

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Well I found the problem I seem to have pinched a wire that connects from the ignition....sigh..... any easy fix to that or guess I will have to get it towed?
 

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i have an 04 750 and in the past three weeks i have had the bike die on me twice both times have been from the bike sitting for three days or more. i thought it might be a battery issue due to the fact that the battery in my bike is more than three years old and when talking to a service guy at my local cycler gear shop and he says its probably the battery saying that tyhey are only supposed to last about two and half yrs. Also with me living in an extremly hot state and having an upgraded exhaust as well as pcIII and a av outlet charger all running to the battery it may just be time for a new one. a;so jumped my battery the last time with a car maybe killed of some of the cells in the battery. what do youi guys think. also when the bike is getting used it starts up with no problem.
 

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Dealer mode

You can use a wire jump and put it in dealer mode. Thats how I found out I had to reset my tip sensor on my 05 gsxr 600. The code come up in the display.
 

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??

i have a 03 750... i never had a prob turning it over but my headlights dont work... is the starter switch the sam on the 03 as the 04??
 
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