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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
No, the fuel pump relay is separate. The side stand safety relay is combined with the turn signal flasher.

But if the side stand relay fails, or gets flakey, it shuts off the ECM which of course turns off the fuel relay.
Ah, dang.. I thought for a second that might make sense.

They did check the side stand switch to verify that wasn't the issue. Doesn't mean the relay isn't potentially a problem.

I think I will have to take it out Friday and run it until it fails, then swap the relays to see if that affects anything. If not, the fuel pump circuit fault is probably the culprit. Need to see exactly what the codes are the dealer pulled.
 

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You can also put the bike in dealer mode and if a fault occurs, it will pop up right away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Alright.. well, dealer cleared the original codes from when the bike was first looked at which I referenced in a previous post. Went to the dealer today and took the bike for a 1.5 hour ride, and sure enough, essentially the same thing happened again.

Got it back to the dealer, here are the new error codes they pulled:

P0340 - Camshaft position sensor A circuit malfunction
P0352 - Ignition coil B circuit malfunction
P0353 - Ignition coil C circuit malfunction

I think now they have a more accurate path to follow to try and determine what is going on. Has anyone ever seen these codes before and any idea what could be happening?
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Probably wiring.
Apparently there is a known issue with metal burrs ending up on the camshaft position sensor which interrupts the voltage signal and eventually once the ECM recognizes there is a problem it will cause the engine to cut off.

The dealer wants to check the sensor and verify that it is reading the proper voltage.
 

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Apparently there is a known issue with metal burrs ending up on the camshaft position sensor which interrupts the voltage signal and eventually once the ECM recognizes there is a problem it will cause the engine to cut off.

The dealer wants to check the sensor and verify that it is reading the proper voltage.
My guess is you/he means the crankshaft position sensor. Yes, that can cause some running issues but they don't line up with the symptoms you describe (low rpm stumble and some cylinders dropping off) The usual symptoms are that the bike does not start at all (no spark anywhere) or no hot start (the sensor fails).

As far as I know from looking at the Failsafe table in the service manual, the camshaft sensor is only used for starting.
 
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Alright, John (rv6john) and I jumped on a call for a bit today, super helpful guy and I appreciate his time talking through this.

To bring this thread up to the most current situation:

1. The engine stumbling/stalling and not firing on all 4 cylinders was resolved once the spark plugs were replaced.

2. The current issue (which the last few posts involving the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors are in reference to) is as follows:

A. After riding continuously for ~1.5 hours the engine will suddenly cut out with little warning.

B. It will crank continuously if I try restarting it and if it does start it will, in most cases, not stay running for more than 30 seconds or unless I give it throttle to keep the RPM's up

C. It seems that after sitting for 5-10 minutes it will restart and run as if nothing is wrong but the issue will come back after a few minutes of riding.

D. Every time this occurs I have noticed that the fuel pump won't prime and neither will the fuel pump relay click when the engine stop/start switch is flipped. However, after sitting for a few minutes it will usually come back and the bike will start or attempt to start.

Currently, the dealer is running diagnostics on the bike and checking over some sensors. I will probably be doing another test to failure this Friday to see if the issue is resolved based on what they find this week and what repairs (if any) they make.
 

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So when the bike stalls, CHEC comes on the Dash? And you can still crank the Starter?
(Usually the Starter will not crank with CHEC on the Dash).

Is it currently hot over there? And after riding for about an 1 hour in the heat, the bike cuts out?
CHEC comes up. You can still crank the engine, but no start? Then after a few minutes, CHEC
goes away on it's own and you can start it?

I hope I'm wrong, but it sounds like ECU.
 

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So when the bike stalls, CHEC comes on the Dash? And you can still crank the Starter?
(Usually the Starter will not crank with CHEC on the Dash).

Is it currently hot over there? And after riding for about an 1 hour in the heat, the bike cuts out?
CHEC comes up. You can still crank the engine, but no start? Then after a few minutes, CHEC
goes away on it's own and you can start it?

I hope I'm wrong, but it sounds like ECU.
This is a good point. There have also been at least two of these generation bikes that did the same thing and it ended up being the ECM.
 
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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
So when the bike stalls, CHEC comes on the Dash? And you can still crank the Starter?
(Usually the Starter will not crank with CHEC on the Dash).

Is it currently hot over there? And after riding for about an 1 hour in the heat, the bike cuts out?
CHEC comes up. You can still crank the engine, but no start? Then after a few minutes, CHEC
goes away on it's own and you can start it?

I hope I'm wrong, but it sounds like ECU.
This is where it gets fuzzy for me and I say that bc I was paying more attention to the fuel pump and relay not working. If it fails again, I will keep an eye on the dash and take note of this.

I spoke with the dealer, looks like the camshaft (and I believe crankshaft) sensors are fine. They replaced the fuel pump relay and clutch safety switch. But the interesting thing they found was the amperage on the battery when the bike is running and a load is applied to the throttle.... it was reading at 24 amps.

I did replace the lead acid battery I had with an Anti-Graity lithium ion unit in probably the last 6-8 months.

Now they are thinking the battery is running at such a high amperage it is causing the rectifier to overheat and the bike is going into some kind of a failsafe mode to protect other components.
 
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