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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
'06 600 Bogging at 1/4 throttle

So another adventure along the way of attempting to resurrect this 2006 GSX-R600 the Missus grabbed off Craigslist for a very low price.
First was a blown freeze plug and water in the oil and oil in the water. I made some progress there, hoping that issue is under control.
So I rode it just now with new oil and filter installed and I now I get a serious bogging of the engine at exactly the same place in the throttle position, about 20-25% open. It's not related to revs or road speed- it's an exact point in the throttle operation where it suddenly goes "blaggghh" and stops gaining much speed.
I don't think it did that previously, although my riding is confined to a few hundred yards with the oil contamination issue, just going down the street to warm up the oil and agitate the contamination to drain it.
During all the other to-do's, it just showed a C49 code now, the PAIR valve. I have a sneaking suspicion that while dismantling things to get inside the valve cover, I pulled a wire out of the connector.
Also, the previous owner disconnected the PAIR piping, I do believe. The hose that departs the valve towards the rear of the engine simply goes nowhere. It just lays there, open on the further end.
My forum searches aren't producing quite the right set of circumstances.
If this was carburetors, I'd swear the needle and/or main jet was clogged.
(Edited to add- that wayward hose from the PAIR valve, I belatedly discovered, goes to a nipple on the underside of the airbox. Don't know if it was like that before or if I just plain missed it.)
 

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Pair is on the front. On the rear, that would be the crank case breather which should go to the airbox.
 

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So what does it do if you keep opening the throttle and rpms go up?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'd describe it as either staggering, with limited acceleration, or even eight-stroking.
The odd thing is the exactness of the occurrence.
I am a newbie to this exhaust valve thingie, too. The seller said the motor went bad on it so he pulled off the whole mechanism. My early impression here is that if it sits in the default position, nothing much happens. I don't have the cable and hardware from the seller.
I should add, the gasoline is suspect, too. It only smells kind of bad. I added some Seafoam but heaven knows how old it is.
I ought to get it out of there, but disposal is a big problem. I no longer have a lawn to mow, which was how I disposed of old gas. I should dump it in my neighbor's compressor fuel tank. Heh.
 

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Bad fuel is something you should rule out. If for no other reason because it's really easy. A fuel pump flow test would be recommended too.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I got a little test ride just now and coaxed a pair of codes: C24 and C27, "Ignition signal" on #1 and 4. Hoping bad spark plugs...
At least, that's an inexpensive fix.
So many things to go over and check out on a derelict.
I do appreciate the assistance!

Edited to add, upon further education:
The shop manual doesn't mention bad plugs, it goes to the coils and related parts. Back under the covers we go.
 

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Check for loose and corroded connections. Swap coil #1 with #2 and #3 with #4. See if the problem stays with C24 and C27, or changes to C25 and C26.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes, that would be good. A bit of rain is curtailing the testing for now.
I also popped for a new battery. The one that came with the bike was of dubious quality and ran down a couple of times during the early experimenting. I doubt it's this cause of this particular problem, but it needed replacing anyway.
 

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The Gr leads from the coils commonly go the a distribution block where they connect to an O/W from the engine stop switch. The distribution block looks like a female electrical connector with a black cover. It's commonly located along the rear of the valve cover, just follow the Gr leads. You could check to see that there's no problem there.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Not the coils

So I tried the suggestions above with no change improvement.
I swapped the coils around and still got the same indications, C24 and C27, #1 and #4 ignition coil.
I checked the gang connector mentioned and took another look at the coil connectors. Nothing is visibly wrong. In fact, they all look pretty good, considering.
It's still hard for me to get away from the idea of a fuel injector problem after parsing the wording in the manual about this code:
"CKP sensor (pick-up coil) signal is produced, but signal from ignition coil is interrupted 8 times or more continuously. In this case, the code C24 (P0351), C25 (P0352), C26 (P0353) or C27 (P0354) is indicated."
Admitting my limited knowledge about this sort of thing, could not a clogging injector cause a misfire "8 times or more" if it's not supplying the juice?
An ECM failure is less appealing to contemplate after all.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I see from some further forum searching that this problem isn't completely unique. I refer to this thread.
One guy never came back after replacing just about everything but the seat cover. Another, later, poster concluded that his crankshaft position sensor was bad and replacing it ended the problem.
I notice that the faults reported are the cylinder pairs that (I believe) fire together, 1+4 and 2+3. If this was an older two-coil bike, you'd look at the offending coil and connection.
The tough thing is that the fault and the bogging are occurring for the other guys at a specific RPM, and mine I swear is a throttle setting.
Temperature and running time aren't a factor for me. Given the fact that the Missus still hasn't hit the DMV for a live license plate my test track is a lightly-used, very short forest preserve access road near our house.
My engine was afflicted with milkshake after a blown freeze plug. Could this have garbarged up the CKP sensor? Sure, it clogged the oil pressure switch when I positively knew I had oil pressure. But the fact that it's only killing one half of the sparkers seems to suggest that it hasn't.
I will have a look at the CKP sensor, for all the good that will do.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Opened the CKP sensor cover, saw a few metal flakes stuck to the magnet and blew them off. Otherwise, looked pretty good.
Ran the manual's ohmmeter tests that I could with my conventional meter. All good. I haven't had a peak-voltage reading meter in a long time and I'm not getting one today.
Again, no visible problems with the connectors.
Still gets the C24-27 code when the throttle opened up a fair amount. Also noted is more popping in the exhaust than I would expect from a stock system, for whatever that's worth.
 

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"Opened the CKP sensor cover..."

Do the same with the CMP sensor.

Any indications that this bike once had a Power Commander?

I'm skeptical of your clogged injector theory but you could also try swapping the injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I have no reason think there was a Power Commander, and I haven't noticed one yet. Nor do I see any harness tampering evidence, not that I've searched as completely as possible.
Pulled the camshaft position sensor. Looked perfectly normal, no mung or debris. Now, during the freeze plug replacement I did clean the interior of the valve cover with mineral spirits, as the white goo was quite thick. The Missus, a chef by trade, pronounced the cover to be frosted on the inside.
However, a short test ride had the same bogging issue and produced the same C24-27 code.
Think I may be yanking some injectors or something. I too was not sold on that as the issue, but if there were no electronic gadgetry involved, I would have taken the initial symptoms to be interrupted fuel flow anyway.
I've done a lot of derelicts over the decades (none this modern) so I'm pretty much accustomed to that sort of thing. In fact, I just R+R-ed the carbs on a $300 Concours for the third time and replaced the dang pilot jets. Still got issues, but it ran pretty cleanly for a 15-mile loop and got home under its own power.
Still, appreciate the suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Say, do I really need to replace the injector O-rings if I pull them for cleaning? Guess that could be a bad place to cheat. It's just that waiting for parts slows things down.
 

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Say, do I really need to replace the injector O-rings if I pull them for cleaning? Guess that could be a bad place to cheat. It's just that waiting for parts slows things down.
I'm pretty sure there is an automotive equivalent for the injector o-rings. FelPro makes a bunch of them and you an match them up at the auto parts store. A search here may pop up a part number for them.
 

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Wow, that seems pretty expensive. I am 96% certain that automotive seals would be a LOT less than that...

On to injectors... I do not believe that system is smart enough to throw a coil code if the injector is causing a misfire. The coil, and plug would still be firing, weather it has fuel to burn or not. I am betting on crank, or cam sensors... Maybe even both, though not very likely they are both bad... And i don't think anybody has mentioned the TPS? Is it adjusted correctly? Does it have a dead spot?
 
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