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Discussion Starter #1
I got a GSXR crankcase had a hole snapped in it I got a new crankcase swap everything around but now fuel pump wont Prime I did a direct 12 volts from the battery the pump work it only crank won't actually start and I'm getting a c28 code but I bought a STV Eliminator to eliminate stva so not sure why I'm still getting a code for it when it is no longer on my bike. anybody got any ideas that can help me out ive been working on this thing for a few months now i like to figure stuff myself but it is about to drive me crazy and im bout to give up outta ideas. Thanks
 

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Wow nothing no ideas hope yall get help when you need it thanks
Well, this being a week day most of us are at work. Might not get an instant reply.

Have you got the TOS upright? That will allow it to crank but kills ignition.
 

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Wow nothing no ideas hope yall get help when you need it thanks
Hmmm. I guess I missed my expected response time. Oh well.

Ask your question on a Facebook group and you will have dozens of responses within an hour. Probably none of them will be right, but you will get responses. I'm sure you will get "change your stator and regulator rectifier bro".
 
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Hmmm. I guess I missed my expected response time. Oh well.

Ask your question on a Facebook group and you will have dozens of responses within an hour. Probably none of them will be right, but you will get responses. I'm sure you will get "change your stator and regulator rectifier bro".
To be fair, we did make him wait two hours.

I must admit I am a bit miffed as I replied 7 hours ago and got no response from him. Weird.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hello and my bad guys jus frustrated but i do apologize i didnt consider the whole having a life out side this website lol but as to the tos yes its correct. As for changing out my stator and rectifier i actually was looking on youtube earlier and saw how to tell if they are good or bad. I remembered when i installed mine after i swapped out the crankcase and lower end that the stator looked kinda dark copper not real shiny like new ones do.... So tomorrow ill swap thos out i have an extra set from an 05 600 motor i have laying around...

Again my bad on been a douche guys and ill keep you posted. Oh any thoughts on the c28 code i removed the stva and top butterfly plates from my throttle bodies, so as far as i understood it should still read as if they are fully working correctly.. Maybe i should give the company a call?

Again thxs
 

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Hello and my bad guys jus frustrated but i do apologize i didnt consider the whole having a life out side this website lol but as to the tos yes its correct. As for changing out my stator and rectifier i actually was looking on youtube earlier and saw how to tell if they are good or bad. I remembered when i installed mine after i swapped out the crankcase and lower end that the stator looked kinda dark copper not real shiny like new ones do.... So tomorrow ill swap thos out i have an extra set from an 05 600 motor i have laying around...

Again my bad on been a douche guys and ill keep you posted. Oh any thoughts on the c28 code i removed the stva and top butterfly plates from my throttle bodies, so as far as i understood it should still read as if they are fully working correctly.. Maybe i should give the company a call?

Again thxs
No harm,we all have our days.

Please don't change the stator and rectifier at this point as it was just my internet joke regarding some of the advice on FB groups. The bike will start and run just fine without either till the battery goes dead.

You can disregard the C28 code at this point as it will not stop the bike from starting and running.

A tip over sensor will cause the bike to crank but not start but will also show a C23 code and you don't mention that.

The good news is that the ECM seems happy and communicating with the cluster as you are able to see fault codes. The other good news is that the bike is cranking so the ignition, kill switch and side stand switch and relay are all good.

Are the secondary throttle valves cycling when you turn the key on?

I'm assuming you checked the fuel pump fuse. Not just looking at it, but with a meter or test light to make sure it is passing power.

If all that is good, I would go to the fuel pump relay on the front of the airbox.

With the key and kill switch on, you should have power at the Orange/white striped wire (power to the control side) and the Red/Blue stripe wire (power from the fuel pump fuse).

If you do, ground the Yellow/Black striped wire (control side ground from ECM) with the relay attached and see if the pump starts.

294970
 
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To expand a bit on John's reply. The R/Bl lead should always be hot. O/W is hot when the ignition and engine stop switches are on. It also runs to the ignition coils, cooling fan relay, and the dealer mode connector; which is a convenient place to check it. The ECM pulls Y/B low to activate the relay. When activated, power is supplied to the fuel pump and injectors via the Y/R lead. These are things that you can check with a voltmeter. Note also that your fuel pump and fan relay are probably the same part. So you can swap them if the relay is suspect.

IMO removing the secondary throttle is asking for trouble unless you really know what you're doing. Unfortunately most who do - don't, and there are endless problems.

Will the bike run briefly if you manually prime it through the throttle bores?

The diagram on 9-12 of the service manual is oftentimes helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hey guys ya i held off after thinking bout how the charging system works. As far as the secondaries once i installed the aftermarket part i bouught to basically by pass the stva all together they no longer actually moved cause i removed the stva so i removed to upper plates in the bodies as well to honestly make the bodies have no air issues im sure you can understand what im trying to explain in so many words lol..as far as the fuel pump i ran a jumper from the relay to the pump and it turned on and runs no problem so im thinkin its still alright...
 

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The aftermarket unit should have fooled the ECM regarding the C28 code and STVA. I understand the STVA is removed. Even with the code, it should not keep the bike from starting and running as per the fail safe chart below.

Did you ground the Yellow/black striped terminal with the relay plugged in to see if the relay clicked and turned the pump on?

If you have power to the wires I mentioned and the relay is not working, we are down to a faulty relay (easily checked) or the ECM not providing ground to trigger the relay.

One other possibility is the connection between the relay and the ECM. Have you checked the ECM pins and connector for corrosion?

294979
 

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Discussion Starter #11
No i haven't yet actually lol i was actually bored so im im going threw the clutch pak disks make sure its complete. So ill try it out real fast too. Question now when i reassembled the full motor this last time i backed off the cam chain a tooth cuase when i when to just spin the crank shaft by hand it seemed super tight like friction, would that make it have issues like this. Im gonna put the chain back to spec.
 

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Alright so i just tried the y\b relay and ground. The relay clicks no sound from the pump at all tho.
Good sign. Any you have power at the Red/Blue wire (power from the fuse)?

Now check for power out of the relay when you trigger it. (yellow/red striped wire to the fuel pump)
 

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Question now when i reassembled the full motor this last time i backed off the cam chain a tooth cuase when i when to just spin the crank shaft by hand it seemed super tight like friction, would that make it have issues like this. Im gonna put the chain back to spec.
Wait, What? The Cam Chain Tensioner, or you actually moved one or both cams on the chain a tooth?
THIS does not sound good.
Can you tell us more about this?

You spun the moter 'by hand'- assuming a socket and ratchet on the crankbolt on the right side, right?
Did you have the spark plugs out when you rotated it? there is still a lot of tension from all the valve springs, it's still going to feel tight.

If you actually moved a cam or cams a tooth on the chain? though, this is asking for BIG problems in little China!
 
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Kurt Russels oscar winning role! Sounds like we need Lo Pan to inspect and correct valve timing here before Jack Burton has to call Gracie Law, Egg Chin, and his insurance company and he doesn't wanna hear act of god!!
Let’s keep replies in the tech section related to the repair. It is also very helpful if they are coherent.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I basically did a complete tear down and rebuild due to it having a huge hole in the crank case from the guy i bought it from not doing basic maintenance regularly. So from what i read in the manuel it said count i think 14 links and how to put the cams in correctly but felt super tight so i looked online and saw a couple of guys did 15 links instead and it seemed to move a lot smoother. Would that cause it to not allow it to build full compression or it to not have it crank fast enough to start? I had the plugs out when i turned it with a ratchet on the right side yes.... What would it do if i had the plugs in still? As long as the lift is correct it should have been fine right? I didnt gut the top end just the lower and put the top end on the new lower end with new crank case....
 

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I basically did a complete tear down and rebuild due to it having a huge hole in the crank case from the guy i bought it from not doing basic maintenance regularly. So from what i read in the manuel it said count i think 14 links and how to put the cams in correctly but felt super tight so i looked online and saw a couple of guys did 15 links instead and it seemed to move a lot smoother. Would that cause it to not allow it to build full compression or it to not have it crank fast enough to start? I had the plugs out when i turned it with a ratchet on the right side yes.... What would it do if i had the plugs in still? As long as the lift is correct it should have been fine right? I didnt gut the top end just the lower and put the top end on the new lower end with new crank case....

If what you are saying is you advanced the valve timing a link of the chain then that would certainly cause the valve timing to be off to the point of not starting. I am not sure if the motor is an interference type where the valves would contact the top of the pistons but i would think they would. I would go back and assemble it by the specs given in the book. The only thing you need to worry about is not friction but parts impacting each other when you spin it. As far as spark plugs being in or out that is not really a concern till after the motor is assembled. If built correctly it should fire off fairly easily. Do you have a link to one of those videos so that we could be sure we know what you are talking about?
 

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The issue of timing would not prevent the fuel pump from priming.
The issue likely revolves around "safety lockout" There are a few safety lockouts on a GSXR
Some of them are the Tip Over Sensor, Ignition switch, Kickstand switch, Clutch switch, Neutral switch, etc.
I begin by bypassing all the lockouts until I hear the pump prime.
If the fuel pump wont prime, the plug wont fire. When the pump primes, all systems are go to fire.
Good luck
 
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