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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I put the key in all lights come on Everything works as it should turn signals brake lights etc but as soon as I flip the red kill switch to the on position it immediately blows the Ignition fuse 15 amp underneath the seat l. I have checked everywhere for a ground everything is good I have went through and disconnected the fuel pump I'm afraid it has fried the ECM I have checked everywhere for a grounding issue, Then I disconnected the starter eliminating possibilities of either a part or melted or grounded wire after disconnecting and and taking apart different pieces I am still having the same result with the fuse being blown any ideas
 

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Welcome.

Unplug the ECM and see if the ignition fuse still blows. You will have your answer whether it is causing the issue or not.

Why do you suspect the ECM is fried? Is there a back story?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Back story is, I had my stator and rec replaced and it rode home fine...fast forward to a week later and hoped on for a second ride (approx 25 min) and the the bike completely shut off and the batt was steaming hot (about to explode) ...I tow it home buy a new battery and put it in then this issue. Key goes in..everything is normal.. as soon as I flip the red kill switch to the on position it blows the small 15amp ignition fuse ( i have read that if the rectifier was bad it probably roasted my battery then attacked my ecu.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So just went out and unplugged the ecu..and that worked, no more blowing the ignition fuse. I know this may be a stupid question but... does that mean that is a bad ecu or is there a safety somewhere that is protecting the ecu unit? Or do I need to start looking at dropping 500 on a new ecu ( i hope they aren't more )
 

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Bummer. Between it not blowing the fuse with the ECM unplugged and the previous over voltage, I'm 99% sure your ECM is fried.

You will need a new battery and a new R/R. My guess is the replacement R/R was a cheap Chinese Ebay POS.

Did you pay someone to do the stator and R/R work?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I ordered a used ecm off ebay used so I hope all is well with it, said it was tested and good so we will see. Once I get it do I need to have the bike tuned or is it plug and ride?. Yea I bought the rec. And stator from ricks motorsports. I thought that the rectifier I bought was ricks but turns out I picked the other brand not there's ( already called and talked with them). Said if it was bad they would replace it so thats good. And yes I did take it to a shop and have the work done
 

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Just plug the replacement ECM in and go. No programming or coding needed on the US models.

Nice of them to replace the R/R after it caused $1k+ of damage. Go for the actual Ricks or OEM part.

Put the replacement ECM and new battery in and see if it fires up.

If it does, check the charging voltage before you do anything else. If the R/R is failed in over volt it will not be too high at start but will go up with RPM. You should have 14.0 -15.5 volts at 5k rpm. Do not exceed 16 volts.
 
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