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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I’ve only owned this bike for about 2 weeks and it has been kicking my a** so far. Little info on the machine 09 gsxr 750, 24k miles, and I’ve never heard it run. Got it on a trade as a project as every condition of every viechle I’ve bought tradition, it appeared to have a light lay down but nothing crazy. To get to the nitty gritty it has tons of electrical issues and is the very definition of a fixer upper. I’ve put it in dealer mode and it runs a F1 c42, c29, and c46 code. To begin the exhaust code makes sense as it was removed, SVTA code makes sense as the SVTA and it’s TPS sensor were both MIA when receiving the bike, and c42 for the ignition is what is getting me. If this was a Honda rancher it would have been done the day I got it but am still currently learning the specifics of newer street bikes. As I’m sure your aware the c42 cuts off power to the fuel pump since the ECU is not grounding the pump. In my diagnosis after reading many forums I have replaced almost all fuses, the fuel pump relay isn’t obviously clicking but I will give you the voltage readings with key on: (I’ve swapped with fan relay no difference)
Fuel Pump Relay
Red/blue 12.14v
Yellow red .04v
Yellow black 12.05v
Orange white 12.02v
Also before I figured out about the dealer mode I replaced the fuel pump as the original was reading well under the acceptable ohms. So next I tested directly at the fuel pump plug with key on which read:
Fuel pump Plug:
Red 5v
Yellow .2v
Black/brown .05
Then after further researching I went to the ignition which is an cheapo eBay 5 wire ignition when I only have a 4 wire being a American bike. Opened it and thought I discovered my issue as the 100ohm resistor has corroded and snapped off the red 12v wire. So I added a 100ohm 1/2 watt 5% resistance resistor in its place between the orange ignition wire to the something and yellow ecu wire. Didn’t work so I swapped it back to the red 12v contact and ecu wire, didn’t work ethier so I’m at the end of my rope. I’ve had a sneaking suspicion my ecu is fried with all the messed up wiring I had to fix as it seems to be common as well as the c42 problem. I’ve heard the resistor set up is different on the newer bikes but haven’t found any specific info on it. Also I haven’t checked the ignition ohms as I needed some time to pitty myself after the new resistor didn’t resolve my issue lol. (To note) I have unplugged and cleaned/fixed almost all connectors, ecu was in good shape other than a single wire was out which I put back in, I bought another SVTA and it’s tps and they malfunction, kickstand wires were cut so I bypassed, topover sensor I’ve heard about isn’t on a Honda rancher so I don’t know anything about that, headlights wires are currently unplugged as the previous headlights had serious electrical issues, pulled apart kill switch and it appears good and when you cycle it you hear the bike ready itself. The bike will crank all day, turn signals and brake lights work, dash lights all work well and gauge, I have spark, horn dosnt work which is frequently asked but I still don’t know the relevance could just be wiring. Just hoping someone can guide me to fixing this as I’ve already invested to much in a bike I haven’t heard run and can’t seem to find any c42 forums on bike 09+. PS I’ve seen millions of links it seems like to a free owners manual download for the bike and it always malfunctions and only shows a couple pages on my IOS devices.
 

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Welcome. The good news is that if you are getting a C42 code, that means the ECM is working and talking and should not be the issue.

The bike will not run with the C42 code so you need to get that resolved. I'm assuming you are in the U.S. and this is U.S. spec bike without an immobilizer.

I think you are on the right track with the resister in the ignition circuit so I'm guessing you are just not wiring it up correctly. If it was me, I'd buy or borrow the correct Suzuki ignition switch to troubleshoot with.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes it is a US spec bike. I’ve read on some forum I can not locate the newer gen bikes have 2 resistors or the resistor is connected to more than 2 wires but I’m not sure. I defiantly want to get a new oem ignition but am having a hard time shelling out another $150 on a bike that the engine and tranny condition are halfway a mystery. Once I hear it run and take it through all 6 gears I’ll dump all I have in it lol.
 

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Need more information first. Is this a stock bike or does it have added electronics? PCV, security system, HIDs, anything? For the c46 a servo buddy will fix the situation temporarily (fix this first since it affects the c29), c29 could be a bad STVA (top butterfly motor) or just a signal from the EXUP not being there.

So for your bike:
Currently cranking, all lights work, speedo works, etc. (horn could be just a bad horn or wiring (2 wire setup))

Things I would check now:
  • Is there fuel in the bike (no joke, I worked in a service dept. for 10 years and people would forget simple things)
  • With fuel do you hear the fuel pump cycle? If no pull the tank up and disconnect the fuel line, cycle the key and watch the fuel shoot out.
  • If that happens your next step is injectors. How long did the bike sit without being run? Even though they are mechanical (unlike carbs/pilot jet) they can still get gummed up.
  • Pull the top of the airbox off or all the way off (take pictures or reassembly if needed (screw placement etc)) and see if the top/bottom injectors spray fuel or just drip.
-If they spray which it sounds like they aren't then move on to plugs.
- you say there is spark and I am assuming you pull the plugs out still in the coil packs and held it to the engine block to watch the spark (always make sure its grounded or you can fry the ecm)

Let me know how things go after these steps.

The microfiche for your bike:
 

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Yes it is a US spec bike. I’ve read on some forum I can not locate the newer gen bikes have 2 resistors or the resistor is connected to more than 2 wires but I’m not sure. I defiantly want to get a new oem ignition but am having a hard time shelling out another $150 on a bike that the engine and tranny condition are halfway a mystery. Once I hear it run and take it through all 6 gears I’ll dump all I have in it lol.
I have not had to rig a non OEM ignition switch so I don't know for sure. I do know that used switches are on Ebay all the time and the part number for you bike was used on many years and models. Here is a cross reference if it helps:

PARTS SEARCH RESULTS
ASSEMBLIES WHERE 37100-41G10 IS USED
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So to give some more insight @EVL 750 the fuel pump does not cycle or prime when turning the key to on and the fuel pump was halfway submerged so it is well above the intake tube.

For the C29 issue the bike actually upon purchase had the SVTA removed and the secondary butterflies zip tied all the way open. So I purchased a used SVTA and it’s tps off eBay and installed them, first installing with the butterflies all the way closed then with the butterflies all the way open. The SVTA functions but for example you turn the key the butterflies go halfway to all the way open drop back down and make a loud chatter for a few seconds then stop. So I figured I would simply leave the SVTA off as I’ve read horror and success story’s and don’t expect perfection out of this bike at this point.

As far as how stock the bike is it appears beyond appearance pieces the bikes stock, only other electrical upgrade was aftermarket blue led headlights which would short out when you turned on your high beams in its converter box. The headlight wire was cut and crudely wire nutted under the air box with open wire in the coating on the new pink wire they added in so I disconnected everything for now and was going to add HID’s after I got it running. With all the wire repairs I have done is why I keep leaning more towards fried ecu and new oem ignition. In regards to the spark I only tested one of the plugs and it appeared to be good while I was checking the basics.

@rv6john im defiantly looking at used ignitions since I don’t trust the $30 eBay. From what I read the aftermarket ignition is basically the same other than the 5th wire I don’t need being an American bike. All I know is I need to get this bike running as I just moved to Northern California and left my other bike back in Kansas temporarily and I need to cruise the redwoods and ocean pretty badly?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Somebody has got to gave some ignition info on these newer bikes. Post bump
 

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Does your display show a "key" on start up which then goes away? If your able to crank your bike and get spark but your fuel pump is not priming then your not sending fuel. You said you switched out the fuel pumps. Check the voltage going to the pump then if there is voltage I would put the other pump back in.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
@EVL 750 i have voltage at the fuel pump just not ground since as the C42 code goes the ECU does not ground the fuel pump as I’m sure your aware. As far as the key goes I’ll have to check on the cluster tomorrow and get back with you. The only unknown is I never did a bench test on the new pump but it seems to be a respectable brand with great reviews, I may pull the pump just to rid myself of that last uncertainty.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
@EVL 750 so no key symbol on the dash, does that mean the bike is reading the key? I cycled it multiple times and went through all the dash options and didn’t notice anything.
 

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If the key disappears then your ignition is not the issue (if it was a bad key or incorrect key the symbol would stay on and you couldn't start the bike).

Where are you at in the steps of fuel pump, injectors, etc?
 

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I'm not sure about yours but on my K6 1000 the key symbol is only present on immobilizer models. The hole where the key symbol would be is blanked out on non-immobilizers. There should be an O/Y (not O/W) lead from the ignition switch to the ECM (pin 64 on K9 1000, yours might be the same). Measure it's voltage with the ignition turned on, ideally at the ECM but everything must be connected when you do. The voltage should be about 2/3 of the battery voltage, maybe 7 - 8 volts. That's what the C42 is about.

P.S. No guarantee but I'm fairly sure that the resistor runs between the O/Y and the O at the ignition switch. If it went to the R instead of O, there would be voltage on the O/Y when the switch was in the P (Park) position which is not a particularly good thing to happen.
 

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I'm not sure about yours but on my K6 1000 the key symbol is only present on immobilizer models. The hole where the key symbol would be is blanked out on non-immobilizers. There should be an O/Y (not O/W) lead from the ignition switch to the ECM (pin 64 on K9 1000, yours might be the same). Measure it's voltage with the ignition turned on, ideally at the ECM but everything must be connected when you do. The voltage should be about 2/3 of the battery voltage, maybe 7 - 8 volts. That's what the C42 is about.

P.S. No guarantee but I'm fairly sure that the resistor runs between the O/Y and the O at the ignition switch. If it went to the R instead of O, there would be voltage on the O/Y when the switch was in the P (Park) position which is not a particularly good thing to happen.
This is very true... If its not an immobilizer bike then this doesn't apply. Been around bikes from other countries (Navy) so I get the differences mixed up sometimes. Could it be as simple as a faulty kill switch?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
@billv it is a US bike so no immobilizer and I’ve never seen a key which makes sense since it has no chipped key. I actually did connect the resistor to the orange ignition to the ecu wire. I was thinking as well that would be the best way to go as well as I’ve read about a parasite draw on the red 12v killing people’s batteries in a few days. I haven’t had a chance to get those readings yet cause I’ve been very busy at work this week.

@EVL 750 sorry to you as well I’ve been very busy working recently so no chance to get this reading and test done after getting the resistor soldered in the ignition. In regards to the killswitch I’ve crudely taken it apart, at a quick glance everything was clean and you flip it off the bike won’t crank or flip it on and the bike will verbally ready itself and it will crank so logically I would think it would be good right?
 

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If the bike cranks then the kill switch is working. Now you need to figure out the fuel pump and what pressure its sending fuel if it is at all (43 psi I think), then spark on all cylinders.
 

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"you flip it off the bike won’t crank or flip it on and the bike will verbally ready itself and it will crank"
I'm surprised. On a K9 I'd expect the kill switch to shut down the fuel system. But it ought to crank.
 
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