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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2000 750 when bike is over 180 degrees it is a bitch to start and throws weird codes like the stva and tps ( line in top position on c00 fault but when it is under 180 it starts fine no faults
 

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Please explain why all this electronic bullshit on a bike is a good thing
I got nuthin' there

If the bike is running fine then getting past 180 before starting to throw weird stva & tps codes

are you seeing the FI light while running, and then getting the codes while in dealer mode before turning the key off?
 

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Have the valve clearances been checked? Difficult hot starting is I believe a symptom of the valve clearances being smaller than spec.

Does it throw any codes when the engine is cold?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If i shut it off run in store get what i need come out if the bike is over 180 cranke real slow ( had batt. Checked tested ok) wont start then throws fi light check and it is c028 and c00 with line in top position but if i let it cool to like 160 it starts fine with no fault
 

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The TPS line only has meaning when idling at the correct RPM. I can't tell but you may be seeing it with the engine stopped and the throttle bumped by the STVA.

Have you checked the compression?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No havent checked compression getting parts to do valve seals and valve adjustment this winter cause local bike shop says they wont work on old bikes like mine (peacock motorsports in Baldwin Mi )
 

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Another cause of hot start issues is the starter motor or wiring to it. A failing starter will bind when hot, making it difficult to spin itself, let alone the engine.

It would also be an idea to get one of those induction ammeters. Put it over the thick wire to the starter motor and measure the current when starting a cold engine. Repeat the test when it’s hot and cranking slowly. If the starter motor is binding when hot, I guess it’ll be drawing a higher current when hot.

What condition is the heavy wire to the starter in?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Cranks slow above 180 and throws coads
Cranks fine below 170ish
Positive wire to starter in good shape no corrosion, starter 21yrs old, i suspect it needs valve adjustment no shops will do the job (they say they dont work on older bikes cant get parts is reason given i think the reason is shit mechanics)
 

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Cranks slow above 180 and throws coads
Cranks fine below 170ish
Positive wire to starter in good shape no corrosion, starter 21yrs old, i suspect it needs valve adjustment no shops will do the job (they say they dont work on older bikes cant get parts is reason given i think the reason is shit mechanics)
Sounds like BS to me.

I’ve just adjusted the valves in a 2001 Yamaha WR250. Got the shims at my local bike mechanic in a very small rural town.

Checking and reshimming the valves isn’t a hard job if you have a service manual and follow all the steps.

I still reckon the slow cranking is either a going-dead battery or an issue with the starter motor though. The codes you get when the cranking is slow could well be as a result of the voltage dropping too far while the battery struggles to spin the starter.

When did the bike start to do this, by the way? Was it all good and then suddenly started acting out, or has the hot start issue come on slowly over time?
 

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I agree with looking at when the issue started. What work have you most recently done on the bike? Most of the time it can be traced to this...

I had a much older bike than yours crank slow hot because I changed over a stator cover. Turns out the parts were not quite compatible with clearance issues and rubbing ensued but only when hot.
Not saying this is what is happening with yours, but just spitballin'.
 

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I agree with looking at when the issue started. What work have you most recently done on the bike? Most of the time it can be traced to this...

I had a much older bike than yours crank slow hot because I changed over a stator cover. Turns out the parts were not quite compatible with clearance issues and rubbing ensued but only when hot.
Not saying this is what is happening with yours, but just spitballin'.
Good call on the stator cover. That would also cause the issue. The tolerances are really fine so highly recommended to use OEM cover and OEM gasket for that job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Havent done any work on it that would cause this. 3yrs ago r/r and stator replaced (rics motorsports not cheap Chinese shit) . Air filter brakes and clipons are only things done to it recently, mods it came with when i bought it were slipon and kand n filter
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
As far as doing the valve adjustment, math and i never mixed well and yes i do have a hard copy of fsm want a shop to do it if they screw it up they replace it if i screw up im out a toy
 

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Havent done any work on it that would cause this. 3yrs ago r/r and stator replaced (rics motorsports not cheap Chinese shit) . Air filter brakes and clipons are only things done to it recently, mods it came with when i bought it were slipon and kand n filter
Good to know. We can rule cheap stator cover out then.

As far as doing the valve adjustment, math and i never mixed well and yes i do have a hard copy of fsm want a shop to do it if they screw it up they replace it if i screw up im out a toy
I get your point and understand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Dont have an induction thingamajig to test voltes to starter and cant afford one right now so I'll look in to having my starter rebuilt there are a couple really good shops around here to rebuild it
 

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maybe apply battery voltage directly to the starter when hot to see if it is a relay/wiring issue or a weak starter (or some kinda increased drag when hot).
 

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2000 750 when bike is over 180 degrees it is a bitch to start and throws weird codes like the stva and tps ( line in top position on c00 fault but when it is under 180 it starts fine no faults
My money is on a bad battery. Nothing screams a shot battery like crazy codes being thrown and difficult starting after running it for a bit. If it's acting like it's got a poltergeist, I'd double and triple check that battery. You say you "had it checked" but what does that mean exactly? Did they just throw a multi meter at it and found the voltage to exceed 12.5? Because most pocket multimeters don't have a true load test function and that's what you need. Simple voltage alone isn't very useful in your situation. You need to know that it can bear the load and that means amps. Take it to autozone if you don't have one, they'll put it on their load tester for free. You can get really hung up chasing your tail, needlessly replacing sensors and fixing what's not broken. Slow down and look more closely at the obvious things first before racing off to some super obscure, rarer than rare explanation or culprit. If the battery is on the blink, you may as well forget about all the codes you've been chasing as well, because it's not good data. Even the Suzuki manual says from damn near page one that you must have a sound battery before conducting any tests involving any aspect of your wiring harness, and especially FI code diagnostics. Without a battery that's behaving like a new one, you can't trust any dealer mode error codes. It's perfectly common for a battery to read 14+ volts on a multimeter DC voltage setting and still be completely shot. It may start once and get you miles from home but as soon as you kill the ignition and attempt to restart it, you'll be up shit creek.
 
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