I got nuthin' therePlease explain why all this electronic bullshit on a bike is a good thing
Sounds like BS to me.Cranks slow above 180 and throws coads
Cranks fine below 170ish
Positive wire to starter in good shape no corrosion, starter 21yrs old, i suspect it needs valve adjustment no shops will do the job (they say they dont work on older bikes cant get parts is reason given i think the reason is shit mechanics)
Good call on the stator cover. That would also cause the issue. The tolerances are really fine so highly recommended to use OEM cover and OEM gasket for that job.I agree with looking at when the issue started. What work have you most recently done on the bike? Most of the time it can be traced to this...
I had a much older bike than yours crank slow hot because I changed over a stator cover. Turns out the parts were not quite compatible with clearance issues and rubbing ensued but only when hot.
Not saying this is what is happening with yours, but just spitballin'.
Good to know. We can rule cheap stator cover out then.Havent done any work on it that would cause this. 3yrs ago r/r and stator replaced (rics motorsports not cheap Chinese shit) . Air filter brakes and clipons are only things done to it recently, mods it came with when i bought it were slipon and kand n filter
I get your point and understand.As far as doing the valve adjustment, math and i never mixed well and yes i do have a hard copy of fsm want a shop to do it if they screw it up they replace it if i screw up im out a toy
My money is on a bad battery. Nothing screams a shot battery like crazy codes being thrown and difficult starting after running it for a bit. If it's acting like it's got a poltergeist, I'd double and triple check that battery. You say you "had it checked" but what does that mean exactly? Did they just throw a multi meter at it and found the voltage to exceed 12.5? Because most pocket multimeters don't have a true load test function and that's what you need. Simple voltage alone isn't very useful in your situation. You need to know that it can bear the load and that means amps. Take it to autozone if you don't have one, they'll put it on their load tester for free. You can get really hung up chasing your tail, needlessly replacing sensors and fixing what's not broken. Slow down and look more closely at the obvious things first before racing off to some super obscure, rarer than rare explanation or culprit. If the battery is on the blink, you may as well forget about all the codes you've been chasing as well, because it's not good data. Even the Suzuki manual says from damn near page one that you must have a sound battery before conducting any tests involving any aspect of your wiring harness, and especially FI code diagnostics. Without a battery that's behaving like a new one, you can't trust any dealer mode error codes. It's perfectly common for a battery to read 14+ volts on a multimeter DC voltage setting and still be completely shot. It may start once and get you miles from home but as soon as you kill the ignition and attempt to restart it, you'll be up shit creek.2000 750 when bike is over 180 degrees it is a bitch to start and throws weird codes like the stva and tps ( line in top position on c00 fault but when it is under 180 it starts fine no faults