I had orilyes load test it about a month ago that was the first thing i checkedMy money is on a bad battery. Nothing screams a shot battery like crazy codes being thrown and difficult starting after running it for a bit. If it's acting like it's got a poltergeist, I'd double and triple check that battery. You say you "had it checked" but what does that mean exactly? Did they just throw a multi meter at it and found the voltage to exceed 12.5? Because most pocket multimeters don't have a true load test function and that's what you need. Simple voltage alone isn't very useful in your situation. You need to know that it can bear the load and that means amps. Take it to autozone if you don't have one, they'll put it on their load tester for free. You can get really hung up chasing your tail, needlessly replacing sensors and fixing what's not broken. Slow down and look more closely at the obvious things first before racing off to some super obscure, rarer than rare explanation or culprit. If the battery is on the blink, you may as well forget about all the codes you've been chasing as well, because it's not good data. Even the Suzuki manual says from damn near page one that you must have a sound battery before conducting any tests involving any aspect of your wiring harness, and especially FI code diagnostics. Without a battery that's behaving like a new one, you can't trust any dealer mode error codes. It's perfectly common for a battery to read 14+ volts on a multimeter DC voltage setting and still be completely shot. It may start once and get you miles from home but as soon as you kill the ignition and attempt to restart it, you'll be up shit creek.