[Gatsby]

Hey everyone I’ve been on the site for about a year now but this is my first post, i’ve had electrical problems with this bike since the beginning I replace the regulator rectifier, the stater the battery a couple of different fuses and I’m still running into electrical problems and idk what to do, The electrical connection to the stater has resistance coming from somewhere because it’s partially melted and this isn’t the first time the stater that I replaced was just like this the guy before me I have no clue what he did to the electrical system but it seems changed when I compare it to the OEM wiring diagrams. Here’s a couple of pictures

 

[matt365]

Buy a used wiring harness that hasn't been butchered and start over.



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[Yellow Submarine]

Yowza. Looks like a connector bbq. If I may, I suggest you eliminate some wiring and wire the rectifier directly to the stator. (The 3 yellow wires to the 3 yellow now browned wires) Try that and see if you still have problems.

Looks to me like the harness has been hacked by an amateur. Wiring direct from regulator/rectifier to the stator wires you cut out any bogus, dodgy or hacked wires and run wires you know the integrity of.

If this experiment works you can either make it permanent with the proper soldered connections protected by sealed heat shrink or, do as was suggested by @matt365 and source a new to you used harness in better shape than what you have currently.

 

[Gatsby]

Buy a used wiring harness that hasn't been butchered and start over.



Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk

Thanks man, would you have any recommendations sites to buy harnesses I’m usually just using eBay for stuff like that for used stuff

 

[MadisonMotorsportUK]

That looks about as good as the tail end wiring in the K1 600 I've just bought. Too large crimps fitted and wires fell out as soon as I removed the electrical tape....

 

[MadisonMotorsportUK]

Anyway, you could always pick up a connector kit from Amazon and replace the dodgy crimps-into-sockets arrangement. If you have a modicum of common sense and a wiring diagram, that loom should repair fine.

 

[QRO]

Hey everyone I’ve been on the site for about a year now but this is my first post, i’ve had electrical problems with this bike since the beginning I replace the regulator rectifier, the stater the battery a couple of different fuses and I’m still running into electrical problems and idk what to do, The electrical connection to the stater has resistance coming from somewhere because it’s partially melted and this isn’t the first time the stater that I replaced was just like this the guy before me I have no clue what he did to the electrical system but it seems changed when I compare it to the OEM wiring diagrams. Here’s a couple of pictures View attachment 300005
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Two options;

i) with your ohmmeter and several hours, mark each of the connectors, and then painstakingly draw out the circuit that is currently on your bike, noting the resistances between the various connections (not just 'connected'), then compare it with what it should be and fix the differences/high resistances,
ii) let someone else do that, either professionally in a workshop (most expensive option) or by means of providing you the correct harnesses.

I don't believe there are any other options involving beer, pliers and a screwdriver, and/or wishful thinking.

I can't imagine how the bike ended up in that state so I doubt anyone would be able to identify some 'underlying cause' that could fix it.

Probably 10 different owners each bodging the circuit in their own peculiar ways.

Start again.

 

[matt365]

Thanks man, would you have any recommendations sites to buy harnesses I’m usually just using eBay for stuff like that for used stuff

They all seem to be about $200 on e-bay. Likely thats going to be your best bet. That, or a wrecking yard. The time and hassle involved with that would make me just bite the bullet and get it off e-bay.

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[Tinsnips]

For the record, the windshield wiper circuit on an early ‘70’s MG Midget is the one true Electrical Hell. 3 wiper motors, 5 wires, and positive ground.

Now that you don’t feel so bad about what you have, I would do as @Yellow Submarine suggests. Take a shot at repairing the three wire connection that is burnt. See if that works. It should be a half hour process and you will know where you stand. That may at least get you back on the road.

If you do get it running, I would still look at a wrecking yard or on EBay for another harness. That issue may be fixed but others are guaranteed to pop up literally down the road.

 

[Yellow Submarine]

The 3 wires from the rectifier to stator problem is common on both my 996 and my Mille R. Both are Y2K bikes as well. ( see a theme here?)

The common fix for both is fitting a MOSFET type regulator/rectifier from either a later ZX-10 or R1. One method was soldering the wires together to eliminate the connector.

If you wanted to keep everything looking OEM stock, Connector kits available on eBay from various sources….but the wire harness in this case is hacked all to hell. And a new R/R is already fitted.

My reasoning for recommending a new harness is that there are likely other burned sections of wire as well as at least one short to ground somewhere causing the blown fuses. @Gatsby what info can you provide on that R/R?

Is it cheap Chinesium or Rick’s Electric. Or used OEM?

 

[Gatsby]

The 3 wires from the rectifier to stator problem is common on both my 996 and my Mille R. Both are Y2K bikes as well. ( see a theme here?)

The common fix for both is fitting a MOSFET type regulator/rectifier from either a later ZX-10 or R1. One method was soldering the wires together to eliminate the connector.

If you wanted to keep everything looking OEM stock, Connector kits available on eBay from various sources….but the wire harness in this case is hacked all to hell. And a new R/R is already fitted.

My reasoning for recommending a new harness is that there are likely other burned sections of wire as well as at least one short to ground somewhere causing the blown fuses. @Gatsby what info can you provide on that R/R?

Is it cheap Chinesium or Rick’s Electric. Or used OEM?

Its gonna be a cheap one I just bought on amazon a couple months ago, but Im worried that a lot of it is coming from the taillights they ended up getting water inside them and like you said the wires are hacked to hell but Im trying to find a new tail end section harness to replace all of that, Im gonna try to fix the wires before I replace the R/R,

 

[Yellow Submarine]

If there is water in your tail lights, that may be your short. Water is a good conductor. I’ve seen plenty of problems caused by water in control boxes or other places it shouldn’t be. On anything from motorcycles to $1.5M pieces of specialized aircraft servicing equipment or even one of a kind experimental stuff when I worked at an engineering center.

 

[Gatsby]

Anyone have any idea what these are I keep looking through the wiring diagram and I’m not see anything on there related to these, so would anyone know what their for?

 

[Yellow Submarine]

Not sure what the first pic is supposed to show. Looks like an awful hack job on the wiring but that’s about all I can make out.

The second pic, also not 100% sure but looks like it could be a relay, turn signal flasher or possibly even the tip over sensor.

 

[QRO]

Anyone have any idea what these are I keep looking through the wiring diagram and I’m not see anything on there related to these, so would anyone know what their for?

Pic 1; look for 'spaghetti' on the wiring diagram (if none listed, get a different wiring diagram )
Pic 2; look for 'MAP sensor'

 

[Aperion]

Hey everyone I’ve been on the site for about a year now but this is my first post, i’ve had electrical problems with this bike since the beginning I replace the regulator rectifier, the stater the battery a couple of different fuses and I’m still running into electrical problems and idk what to do, The electrical connection to the stater has resistance coming from somewhere because it’s partially melted and this isn’t the first time the stater that I replaced was just like this the guy before me I have no clue what he did to the electrical system but it seems changed when I compare it to the OEM wiring diagrams. Here’s a couple of pictures View attachment 300005
View attachment 300004
View attachment 300002
View attachment 300003
View attachment 300001

Hey everyone I’ve been on the site for about a year now but this is my first post, i’ve had electrical problems with this bike since the beginning I replace the regulator rectifier, the stater the battery a couple of different fuses and I’m still running into electrical problems and idk what to do, The electrical connection to the stater has resistance coming from somewhere because it’s partially melted and this isn’t the first time the stater that I replaced was just like this the guy before me I have no clue what he did to the electrical system but it seems changed when I compare it to the OEM wiring diagrams. Here’s a couple of pictures View attachment 300005
View attachment 300004
View attachment 300002
View attachment 300003
View attachment 300001

I know what your problem is i went down this road that connection first will all ways fail take the wires out and isolate them from one another and make the connection up soder it if you got the tools but a good wire nut and electrical tape will work 2 buy only mikes stater and rectifier it will cost 300 dollars Do not put 30 dollar Amazon gum ball medicine chine parts or what happened to me fried my ecu cdi and i just like you ripped my harness apart trying to figure out why it wont crank or run or jack new statter new rectifier new relays nothing shit after 100 hours of you tube i found a video where i sware you put the cdi box in the over at 300 for 15 and it draws out the moisture in the cdi box and it worked for my original cdi but i bought one off ebay for 500 dollars i tell you i know how you feel now i wanted to cry i was so had it up to here with this darn bike 3 my 06
Had a bad location of the rectifier so i relocated in the air box be sure to prop it up so air can pass under it or it will burn out again also if your battery is dead or you leave the key on ect driving with a low battery can burn up a rectifier witch can burn up a battery and a shot statter will burn a rectifier up from a low battery some times they all affect one another 1500 dollars i solved the issue and have had no problems if you need more help be happy to