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Discussion Starter #1
Hi!

Thanks for the assistance in advance. I took my bike to get MD state inspected. Tech said that he smelled that my clutch is getting ready to go but the clutch passed inspection. I likely adjusted my clutch improperly as there was no freeplay in the clutch and it was hard to pull in.

Engine light also came on. It's constantly red with an FI displaying even after riding for an hour. I replaced the oil and coolant less than a month ago with engine ice and motul 300v. Oil is dark brown now

Gotta look at the manual again regarding major and minor adjustments. Obviously I fucked up.

I wanna prepare to replace the clutch sooner rather than later. Problem is I don't know where to start. I'm looking at YouTube videos like this one


Do I need an OEM clutch kit with the springs? Are the Barnett clutch kits any good?

Not sure what parts I'll need but I can't seem to find clutch plates for an 02 Suzuki GSXR-750. Only finding clutch kits for the 1000. Might this fit?
 

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My first red flag is a K2 with only 9K miles?
If it was that tight, it should've been slipping under load.

It has NO free play in the lever?

Unless this a drag bike only, and you're doing LOTS of hole shots, no way in H should a clutch w/ 9k miles on it by worn/burnt.
 
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Do the clutch adjustment then see if the clutch slips in 3rd or higher gear under hard acceleration.

If it doesn't, change the oil and carry on.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
My first red flag is a K2 with only 9K miles?
If it was that tight, it should've been slipping under load.

It has NO free play in the lever?

Unless this a drag bike only, and you're doing LOTS of hole shots, no way in H should a clutch w/ 9k miles on it by worn/burnt.
It wasn't ridden much. The last owner got it via auction. And he didn't ride it but 800 miles or so.

It has free play now. I had the adjuster on the clutch lever in too tight.

Not a drag bike. Hell I'm not even there yet in terms of skill in my opinion.
 

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Do the clutch adjustment then see if the clutch slips in 3rd or higher gear under hard acceleration.

If it doesn't, change the oil and carry on.
Thanks. Will do the major adjustment and report back.

Would I need to change the oil knowing I just changed it in June 2020?
 

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Thanks. Will do the major adjustment and report back.

Would I need to change the oil knowing I just changed it in June 2020?
You said it was dark already. I'm assuming this is due to the clutch slipping. I'm also assuming the reason your mechanic suspects your clutch might be bad is that he smelled the oil. Oil is cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You said it was dark already. I'm assuming this is due to the clutch slipping. I'm also assuming the reason your mechanic suspects your clutch might be bad is that he smelled the oil. Oil is cheap.
I'll try another oil. Any recommendations?
 

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I've been using Rotella T6 in just about everything for almost 10 years. Even the track bike.
 
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I can't comment on the 300v. Never used it but I'm sure it is fine. I did start using the Motul 7100 4T in my KTM because I used their break in oil as suggested by the cylinder provider. I was using Rotella in it previously.

I use the Rotella T6 as it is a full synthetic, JASO-M2 spec and about $22 / gallon at WalMart.

Totally unscientific but I got my DR650 with 800 miles and it just turned 40k miles. Always ran Rotella in it. No engine or clutch work done and don't need to add any oil between 3500 mile oil changes.
 

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Was the FI light on when you got the bike or did it come on after you adjusted the clutch? Did you look to see what the FI light code was? How dark brown is the color or can you provide a picture. Is it transparent brown or milky brown?
 

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Discussion Starter #13

Was the FI light on when you got the bike or did it come on after you adjusted the clutch? Did you look to see what the FI light code was? How dark brown is the color or can you provide a picture. Is it transparent brown or milky brown?
Transparent brown oil color
Smells like oil

Will take pictures
The FI light came on when I had the bike for a few months. I knew it needed an oil change so I rode it to the shop for a checkup list to see what needed fixing, fixed/replaced those items.
After I did the oil change it was all good except for the clutch after I replaced the levers

Some replacements were just something I do when I get a used bike
front brakes
front rotors(one was warped so I replaced the set)
coolant flush (engine ice)
chain adjustment/clean/lube
rear tire change(caught a nail on the way to the shop)
k&n air filter
spark plugs(4 new, iridium)
motul 300v 10w40 oil
k&n oil filter
speed bleeders (front and rear)
castrol dot 4 brake fluid
undetail/fender eliminator
CRG shorty brake and clutch levers (regretting the shorty choice on my clutch😵)
 

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A good rule of thumb when adjusting a clutch (always do it when the engine is cold), is to keep a gap about the thickness of a quarter or two (money type of quarter) where the lever mounts just to the left of the adjusting screw.

FI lights don't usually come mon with oil so you should check the code (easy process). I think the only time I see that is when there is a bad oil filter and the oil pressure is not correct.

Transparent brown is good, don't worry about a pic, just wanted to make sure coolant wasn't getting in the trans.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I can't comment on the 300v. Never used it but I'm sure it is fine. I did start using the Motul 7100 4T in my KTM because I used their break in oil as suggested by the cylinder provider. I was using Rotella in it previously.

I use the Rotella T6 as it is a full synthetic, JASO-M2 spec and about $22 / gallon at WalMart.

Totally unscientific but I got my DR650 with 800 miles and it just turned 40k miles. Always ran Rotella in it. No engine or clutch work done and don't need to add any oil between 3500 mile oil changes.
Alrighty. So I couldn't find the Shell Rotella T6 10w-40. I checked my owners manual and the recommended oil is something that's 10w-40. It also says I can use 15w-40. So I'll go grab a gallon from Walmart and see how that works for me.


294149


Bummer that I spent so much on oil only to have to replace it a month later. Also did some additional research, the Motul 300v oil isn't SAE certified and is more of a race type oil since it doesn't have detergents and "stuff" that protect your engine. Lessons learned.

294150
 

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Dam, that's some expensive oil... These clutches are pretty tough. There is a good chance you will just need to adjust it and ride the hell out of it for years before needing to replace. However, ya don't know how bad it was abused, and how long it was out of adjustment and burned on. It's a crap shoot. Clutch kits aren't very expensive, and pretty easy to replace.
 
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